Новини

Ben M
I built that Pak 40 when I was a kid. It is a nice kit with figures and shell casings and stuff. It is fun to paint the uniforms on the little dudes. I left the gun itself in grey plastic and just painted the details.

gorby
Thanks for the compliment Kesa. 👍
Insulation foam board is good to use as the base for a diorama and you often see offcuts in skips. You might need to ask first as some people get arsey when you take things out their skip (why, it's bloody rubbish?). Also it is possible to use real soil as soil in a dio, although you would need to cook it in a microwave or cooker and whoever is responsible for those items may not be too happy about it. Probably best to ask first with that as well.
You need to sieve the soil. This step can be messy.
Cook it in briefly to dry it and kill the microbes (to stop it smelling). Best to use cleaned takeaway metal foil containers.
Mix it with PVA glue and spread it on your dio. This step can be very, very messy.
I've used it a few times in various dioramas and it works well. Best of all, it comes soil coloured. 🙂

Kesa Tiho
Wow, thanks thats helpful

gorby
If you look at photo 23 & 24 of this album you'll see both being used:
Jehlik's Armoured Vehicle, 1916 – Scratching the Ridiculous Roller. | Album by gorby (1:72)

Kesa Tiho
Nearly spilled my cuppa tea when i saw that, but yeah i do see the technique being used. Wow

nikfrost
buckling up for this one!

yngvenett
Following this to learn. If possible, please include some pictures of how you make the rear lights and blinkers look realistic. I'm really struggling with it 🙈

CasModeler
1. Lights. You have to paint it using clear paints and rapid thinner. (dry coats high psi 20-25. )Then dip it into floor varnish. It makes clear parts more transparent. The last thing will be to glue a transparent film(foil)on the back of the lights. for example hasegawa mirror finish.

István Szücs
Great work so far! The dash is amazing, the chassis looks like the real one!

CasModeler
@Istvan
Anyway, not my best build. Paint job is not perfect because I experimented with thin coats and unfortunately metallic coat is too thin.

yngvenett
@CasModeler Thank you for your reply and good advice. It's very nice how the community of experienced builders help with knowledge. We don't have the floor varnish available here (Norway, Europe), but I will look for an alternative 👍

CasModeler
I forgot mentiom aboit the glue. Use only rubber-based clear adhesive otherwise clear part will be fogged.

CasModeler
There is a problem with floor varnish. I had to overpay and imported from USA that one.

yngvenett
@CasModeler
Thanks again and also for information about the glue. I'll make sure to get the right stuff

Martin Oostrom
I've got a sister kit, so definitely watching

Goldman
The 3D printed parts look very nice. High quality prints. Did you design them yourself? What printer did you use?

Bozzer
I concur with Goldman, those parts look good. I'll hop on to this build, because I'm interested to see where you take it?

Mikhail Petrenko
Thanks guys! I use Anycubic Photon Mono M5S. The 3d-model is a modified model from a computer game ETS. I modified it in Blender program.