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Damian Güttner
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RAF 6" and 8" Serial Numbers Black
Xtradecal 1:48
XO21-48 13 November, 12:14
Damian Güttner
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RAF 6" and 8" Serial Numbers Black
Xtradecal 1:48
XO21-48 13 November, 12:13
Hawgjetfixer
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Doolittle Tokyo Raid Set B-25B Bomber & Aircraft Carrier USS Hornet
Revell 1:72
85-6864 2001 Променено ??? 13 November, 12:13
Alex Romero
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F-105D Thunderchief - cockpit late modification (Basic edition with 3D decals) (HobbyBoss)
ResKit 1:48
RSU48-336 2024 Нова матрица 13 November, 12:11
Pinchy
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GSI Creos Air Brush Series
Mr.Procon Boy WA Platinum 0.3mm Ver.2 Double Action Type (0.3mm) Mr. Hobby
PS289 (PS-289) 2016 Нови части 13 November, 12:09
Andrzej Rygiel
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20 снимки
Messerschmitt Bf 109F-4 (Eduard 1/48) - In progress1:48
And Marseille's bird is finished. My test of peeling off the decal film failed, I tested it on three stencils and damage...
33 4 May, 20:33
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Indeed a very nice result. What issues did you have on peeling the decal carrier film? I am a "peeler" and it works quite nice I have to say. Maybe I can help for next time - let me know
Indeed a very nice result. What issues did you have on peeling the decal carrier film? I am a "peeler" and it works quite nice I have to say. Maybe I can help for next time - let me know
13 November, 10:18
Andrzej Rygiel
Thanks for your comments guys! @Thomas - I think the main problem was that the surface of the model was not "glossy" enough and the decals didn't attach entirely, when I started to peel them off I took off portions of the stencils too with the decal film. After witnessing that I abandoned the idea to peel the film off from the insignias and bigger decals. What I also read at forums is that when you apply some of the decal solutions on the Eduard decals they tend not to be that "peel-off-friendly" afterwards. Anyway, the top satin coat covered majority of the silvering issues I noticed so it's not that big of an issue anyway - I'll be experimenting with the peeling off on my next builds.
Thanks for your comments guys! @Thomas - I think the main problem was that the surface of the model was not "glossy" enough and the decals didn't attach entirely, when I started to peel them off I took off portions of the stencils too with the decal film. After witnessing that I abandoned the idea to peel the film off from the insignias and bigger decals. What I also read at forums is that when you apply some of the decal solutions on the Eduard decals they tend not to be that "peel-off-friendly" afterwards. Anyway, the top satin coat covered majority of the silvering issues I noticed so it's not that big of an issue anyway - I'll be experimenting with the peeling off on my next builds.
13 November, 10:57
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Peeling is tricky and in my opinion every modeller has to find what works best for him. I did some trials and I share my experience: 1.) Decals have to be really dry. I leave them 24h at least, better 48h to completely dry after application and I don´t use any decal setting solution - just good amount of water (I learned that e.g. Micro Sol set softens the decal very fast and if the decal is not in place and you have to manipulate it, it get´s a bit tricky when the decal is soft 2.) I cut the decal in recessed areas of e.g. panel lines and I use Decal softener (and a bit of pressure) to get them down to the surface and leave them to dry completely. 3.) Then I apply a good amount of white spirit and let the carrier film soak it up (sometimes I do that 2-3 times) and leave it for several minutes. Then I rub the carrier film off with a cotton bud (also a bit soaked in white spirit) and gentle rub with a turning motion of the cotton bud until I see the carrier film starts to get off. I prefer that rotating and pressing motion as peeling puts additional force a probably not 100% adhered decal. For me this works the best. Surface to be 100% polished is not a must, but for sure helps the adhesion and I did not see any difference in using decal softener or not. Even using Tamiya mark fit strong allowed to peel /rub the carrier film. I hope this helps to find the best approach for you
Peeling is tricky and in my opinion every modeller has to find what works best for him. I did some trials and I share my experience: 1.) Decals have to be really dry. I leave them 24h at least, better 48h to completely dry after application and I don´t use any decal setting solution - just good amount of water (I learned that e.g. Micro Sol set softens the decal very fast and if the decal is not in place and you have to manipulate it, it get´s a bit tricky when the decal is soft 2.) I cut the decal in recessed areas of e.g. panel lines and I use Decal softener (and a bit of pressure) to get them down to the surface and leave them to dry completely. 3.) Then I apply a good amount of white spirit and let the carrier film soak it up (sometimes I do that 2-3 times) and leave it for several minutes. Then I rub the carrier film off with a cotton bud (also a bit soaked in white spirit) and gentle rub with a turning motion of the cotton bud until I see the carrier film starts to get off. I prefer that rotating and pressing motion as peeling puts additional force a probably not 100% adhered decal. For me this works the best. Surface to be 100% polished is not a must, but for sure helps the adhesion and I did not see any difference in using decal softener or not. Even using Tamiya mark fit strong allowed to peel /rub the carrier film. I hope this helps to find the best approach for you
13 November, 11:30
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
no worries mate! Good luck and let me know what works the best for you ...
no worries mate! Good luck and let me know what works the best for you ...
13 November, 11:57
bughunter
I have a opposite experience with the decals! I can't peel them off if too dry, e.g. after 24 hours. In principle I follow the guideline on the Eduard Info magazine (can't remember the exact issue): I apply the Gunze Blue cap setting solution below the decals, I think it acts as additional glue as it looks like thinned white glue. After 8 hours drying time I use a wooden tooth stick to move a corner up and very sharp tweezers to remove the decal film at once. I my experience it does not work later as the carrier film is harder when to dry.
Once I was able to remove the carrier with that method from a decal, which was hanging "in air", not glued at all! See this pic:
Work in Progress: Sopwith Camel Comic | Album by bughunter (1:48)
So I do not use any chemicals like white spirit on top of the decal. The Gunze "glue" seems to be the key.
WIP - Sopwith Camel | Album by bughunter (1:48)
I have a opposite experience with the decals! I can't peel them off if too dry, e.g. after 24 hours. In principle I follow the guideline on the Eduard Info magazine (can't remember the exact issue): I apply the Gunze Blue cap setting solution below the decals, I think it acts as additional glue as it looks like thinned white glue. After 8 hours drying time I use a wooden tooth stick to move a corner up and very sharp tweezers to remove the decal film at once. I my experience it does not work later as the carrier film is harder when to dry.
Once I was able to remove the carrier with that method from a decal, which was hanging "in air", not glued at all! See this pic:
Work in Progress: Sopwith Camel Comic | Album by bughunter (1:48)
So I do not use any chemicals like white spirit on top of the decal. The Gunze "glue" seems to be the key.
WIP - Sopwith Camel | Album by bughunter (1:48)
13 November, 12:08
Aaron Hutson
маркира кита като поръчан
маркира кита като поръчан
Iron Hammer 88 Divisional Training Exercise of the 3rd (BR) Armoured Divisi...
British Special No 9040
Walter Böhm
2024 13 November, 12:08
Tommy Agne
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22 6 October, 15:31
S B
Moin! Du baust mein nächstes Projekt. Also das Meng Kit. Sogar fast in der gleichen Lackierung. Spannend! Welche Farben hast du für die beiden Grautöne verwendet?
Moin! Du baust mein nächstes Projekt. Also das Meng Kit. Sogar fast in der gleichen Lackierung. Spannend! Welche Farben hast du für die beiden Grautöne verwendet?
8 October, 13:43
Tommy Agne
Hallo S B✌️. Für die Grautöne ('Hill I Scheme') habe ich Mig/Ammo FS36270 'Med. Grey' und Life Color FS36118 'Gunship Grey' verwendet.
Hallo S B✌️. Für die Grautöne ('Hill I Scheme') habe ich Mig/Ammo FS36270 'Med. Grey' und Life Color FS36118 'Gunship Grey' verwendet.
8 October, 18:53
Maciej Bellos
Oooh! An Egyptian Phantom! One of the most rare Phantoms, if not the rarest one!
Looking very nice Tommy!
Oooh! An Egyptian Phantom! One of the most rare Phantoms, if not the rarest one!
Looking very nice Tommy!
8 October, 20:22
S B
Hallo Tommy, deine F-4E ist herausragend geworden. Ganz großes Lob!!! Wirklich ERSTKLASSIG!!! 😍 Die Verwitterung an der Rumpfseiten sieht absolut realistisch aus. Wie hast du das hingekriegt? Airbrush (wenn ja, freihand???) oder mit Ölfarbe?
BTW: Die Idee mit dem Droptank ist mega gut! Das macht das Modell super interessant und zum Hingucker!!! Hast du was dagegen, wenn ich mir das bei gelegenheit "abgucke"?
Beste Grüße
Hallo Tommy, deine F-4E ist herausragend geworden. Ganz großes Lob!!! Wirklich ERSTKLASSIG!!! 😍 Die Verwitterung an der Rumpfseiten sieht absolut realistisch aus. Wie hast du das hingekriegt? Airbrush (wenn ja, freihand???) oder mit Ölfarbe?
BTW: Die Idee mit dem Droptank ist mega gut! Das macht das Modell super interessant und zum Hingucker!!! Hast du was dagegen, wenn ich mir das bei gelegenheit "abgucke"?
Beste Grüße
13 November, 12:07
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