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Roland Sachsenhofer
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40 7 July, 08:59
Roland Sachsenhofer
With these pictures I open the book report on Roden's Junkers D.1: I tried to extend the interior with some steel wire, the seat belts are from Eduard. For the detailing I downloaded the very interesting building instructions from Wingnut Wings for the large D.1 in 1:32, which is quite helpful if you want to have a good documentation as a basis for detailing. I'm also going to realise one of the WW variants, which I immediately liked: all in Dural/ NMF with only a minimal set of markings.
With these pictures I open the book report on Roden's Junkers D.1: I tried to extend the interior with some steel wire, the seat belts are from Eduard. For the detailing I downloaded the very interesting building instructions from Wingnut Wings for the large D.1 in 1:32, which is quite helpful if you want to have a good documentation as a basis for detailing. I'm also going to realise one of the WW variants, which I immediately liked: all in Dural/ NMF with only a minimal set of markings.
7 July, 09:03
bughunter
Watching!
I have done the short fuselage already, I hope one day I can do the long one too.
Is the engine painting finished? I can recommend the WNW manual for this, still available on WNW page.
Watching!
I have done the short fuselage already, I hope one day I can do the long one too.
Is the engine painting finished? I can recommend the WNW manual for this, still available on WNW page.
8 July, 20:44
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thanks for the tip - it's definitely a good one! The printed WNW instructions are next to me, so I want to use a little oily black on the top of the engine and add a little "brass"... But not only WNW instructions, also your excellent work is my reference.
Thanks for the tip - it's definitely a good one! The printed WNW instructions are next to me, so I want to use a little oily black on the top of the engine and add a little "brass"... But not only WNW instructions, also your excellent work is my reference.
9 July, 12:35
Roland Sachsenhofer
The fuselage of the D.1 is now closed, the only thing to be careful of was not to damage the corrugated sheet metal joints. A related issue arises with the leading edges of the wings: in my opinion, the prototype shows a continuous line around the leading edge.... this will be difficult to depict: I will try to get close to this with careful sanding and the same amount of reworking with a scalpel.
The fuselage of the D.1 is now closed, the only thing to be careful of was not to damage the corrugated sheet metal joints. A related issue arises with the leading edges of the wings: in my opinion, the prototype shows a continuous line around the leading edge.... this will be difficult to depict: I will try to get close to this with careful sanding and the same amount of reworking with a scalpel.
11 July, 07:09
bughunter
Yes to clean the wing seem is not that esay. I must admit I used also wings from another kit after I was not happy with the first try. I have both the long and short fuselage kits and the wings are the identical. But that shifts the problem only to a later date, when I will build the long one. A new Part PE set is waiting too 🙂
Yes to clean the wing seem is not that esay. I must admit I used also wings from another kit after I was not happy with the first try. I have both the long and short fuselage kits and the wings are the identical. But that shifts the problem only to a later date, when I will build the long one. A new Part PE set is waiting too 🙂
12 July, 16:49
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thank you for your words, mates! - I completely agree that this is not an easy topic! My approach, which you can see started here, is to work on the front edge of the profile with a triangular file. I didn't even try to bring the corrugated sheet metal runs of the top and bottom together - that would be far too small for me - but simply used the file edge many times.... Well, in my opinion it looks at least a little better now than before, so I'll try to make it a little more precise....
Thank you for your words, mates! - I completely agree that this is not an easy topic! My approach, which you can see started here, is to work on the front edge of the profile with a triangular file. I didn't even try to bring the corrugated sheet metal runs of the top and bottom together - that would be far too small for me - but simply used the file edge many times.... Well, in my opinion it looks at least a little better now than before, so I'll try to make it a little more precise....
14 July, 08:57
Roland Sachsenhofer
The Alclad metal colours mercilessly bring out all the flaws and imperfections, especially when everything has already been trimmed to a high gloss in preparation for applying the decals like here! The Wingnut Wings instructions describe an effect called 'tiger stripes' on the wing sheeting, which I recreated using various aluminium and dural colours.
The Alclad metal colours mercilessly bring out all the flaws and imperfections, especially when everything has already been trimmed to a high gloss in preparation for applying the decals like here! The Wingnut Wings instructions describe an effect called 'tiger stripes' on the wing sheeting, which I recreated using various aluminium and dural colours.
18 July, 11:56
bughunter
The stripes are great - can be noticed, but both shades still looks like aluminium which it was.
The stripes are great - can be noticed, but both shades still looks like aluminium which it was.
18 July, 14:53
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thank you very much, mates!
The opinion on the 'tiger stripes' really really pleases me in a very motivating way!
Thank you very much, mates!
The opinion on the 'tiger stripes' really really pleases me in a very motivating way!
18 July, 18:15
Ludvík Kružík
Roland, your model looks very good. I really like the interior of the plane and the engine. Also your rendition of the corrugated sheet metal looks very realistic. 👍
Roland, your model looks very good. I really like the interior of the plane and the engine. Also your rendition of the corrugated sheet metal looks very realistic. 👍
20 July, 14:02
Roland Sachsenhofer
Ludvik, thank you for this comment, giving me a push to get the finishing steps done!
Ludvik, thank you for this comment, giving me a push to get the finishing steps done!
21 July, 06:54
Roland Sachsenhofer
A few steps closer to a finish: working with Roden decals is always an adventure, happy end not guaranteed! The whole thing is spiced up by the corrugated metal nature.... Well, this is the result; I will of touch up up the unclean parts with a brush, but on the whole it will stay like this - now for the signs of use and wear!
A few steps closer to a finish: working with Roden decals is always an adventure, happy end not guaranteed! The whole thing is spiced up by the corrugated metal nature.... Well, this is the result; I will of touch up up the unclean parts with a brush, but on the whole it will stay like this - now for the signs of use and wear!
25 July, 08:01
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thank you! 🙂
The Junkers D.1 is slowly approaching its final appearance - and that didn't work out quite as well as I had imagined! But what the heck, there are some nice things, like the turnbuckles or the two MGs from Gespatch; I'm also happy with the solution for the typical Junkers handles and footrests: a thin, glued-on metal rod was covered with finely cut Tamiya tape as a ridge. Well. I am satisfied with this overall impression.
Thank you! 🙂
The Junkers D.1 is slowly approaching its final appearance - and that didn't work out quite as well as I had imagined! But what the heck, there are some nice things, like the turnbuckles or the two MGs from Gespatch; I'm also happy with the solution for the typical Junkers handles and footrests: a thin, glued-on metal rod was covered with finely cut Tamiya tape as a ridge. Well. I am satisfied with this overall impression.
26 July, 19:22
Ludvík Kružík
As the work progresses, Junkers grows in beauty. Thanks to decals and small details the model looks better. 👍
As the work progresses, Junkers grows in beauty. Thanks to decals and small details the model looks better. 👍
26 July, 22:09
Roland Sachsenhofer
The Junkers D.1 from Roden is now finished, in a way my corrugated metal test run for the somewhat larger Junkers F.13 from Mikro Mir. There are enough problem areas - and also a few insights into how I can proceed better with the F.13, but even so I am surprised by the 'photogenicity' of the little fighter from the last days of the First World War! The markings, which are limited to the bar crosses and two '11s' on the rear of the fuselage, come from the Wingnut Wings documents; they show an aircraft from October 1918, i.e. shortly before the end of the war. Remarkable (and also a reason for my choice) are the 'tiger stripes' due to different metal panelling on the wings, which show up in the right light. I hope you like the pictures, I really enjoyed building it!
The Junkers D.1 from Roden is now finished, in a way my corrugated metal test run for the somewhat larger Junkers F.13 from Mikro Mir. There are enough problem areas - and also a few insights into how I can proceed better with the F.13, but even so I am surprised by the 'photogenicity' of the little fighter from the last days of the First World War! The markings, which are limited to the bar crosses and two '11s' on the rear of the fuselage, come from the Wingnut Wings documents; they show an aircraft from October 1918, i.e. shortly before the end of the war. Remarkable (and also a reason for my choice) are the 'tiger stripes' due to different metal panelling on the wings, which show up in the right light. I hope you like the pictures, I really enjoyed building it!
30 July, 15:36
Nick Dragone
Excellent build and photography. It would have taken me months to build this. Nice work
Excellent build and photography. It would have taken me months to build this. Nice work
30 July, 16:07
JD Duran
маркира кита като поръчан
маркира кита като поръчан
Sea Master 1:350 Series
USS Indianapolis CA-35 (1945) armament w/- resin trunnion 8in (9pcs), 5in (8pcs) barrels Master 1:350
SM-350-074 2013 Нова матрица Multi topic (3)30 July, 17:56
JD Duran
маркира кита като поръчан
маркира кита като поръчан
Sea Master 1:350 Series
USS Arizona armament 14in (12pcs), 5in/51 (10pcs), 5in/25 (8pcs) barrels Master 1:350
SM-350-049 Multi topic (4)30 July, 17:56
Martin Oostrom
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WIP Köln truckНов: 30 July, 17:01 1:24
This took over two hours. The indents were larger than the decals liked.
Проект: DAF 95 XF & Trailer "Köln Truck"
13 16 June, 18:26
Martin Oostrom
I spent a couple of hours cleaning up some parts that I cut of the frame
I spent a couple of hours cleaning up some parts that I cut of the frame
22 June, 18:33
Bozzer
These curbside chassis, really upset me. Just like the Volvo VN. If the manufacturer, went to the trouble, of making an engine, and separate frame parts, with other kits, then why would they cheap out, on kits like these? I love what you're doing with this though. Keep the pictures coming, buddy 👍
These curbside chassis, really upset me. Just like the Volvo VN. If the manufacturer, went to the trouble, of making an engine, and separate frame parts, with other kits, then why would they cheap out, on kits like these? I love what you're doing with this though. Keep the pictures coming, buddy 👍
22 June, 19:35
Martin Oostrom
I didn't put up pictures of all the cutting and sanding. A summary:
All parts are cut, sanded and glued where possible. Only a few drops of filler were needed.
The cab consists of 10 parts that need to be positioned just right. **** job, but I think I managed.
Next up: Primer.
I didn't put up pictures of all the cutting and sanding. A summary:
All parts are cut, sanded and glued where possible. Only a few drops of filler were needed.
The cab consists of 10 parts that need to be positioned just right. **** job, but I think I managed.
Next up: Primer.
18 July, 09:20
Martin Oostrom
And primer is on after a monster session. 200ml primer + 50ml SLT = just enough.
Primer is zero paints grey. But a dirty grey.
And primer is on after a monster session. 200ml primer + 50ml SLT = just enough.
Primer is zero paints grey. But a dirty grey.
18 July, 16:16
Martin Oostrom
Tamiya Bright Red for the chassis and Zero stone grey as main colour for the interior
Tamiya Bright Red for the chassis and Zero stone grey as main colour for the interior
19 July, 13:51
Martin Oostrom
The Zero stone grey was a bit depressing, so I mixed a batch 50/50 with white to lighten things up a bit.
Tamiya aluminium was airbrushed, and Tamiya black as well.
Done with airbrushing for now. Letting the paint cure before decalling.
The Zero stone grey was a bit depressing, so I mixed a batch 50/50 with white to lighten things up a bit.
Tamiya aluminium was airbrushed, and Tamiya black as well.
Done with airbrushing for now. Letting the paint cure before decalling.
20 July, 14:19
Bozzer
That's pretty good moulding. I thought they were PE mate.
I'll get some pictures up myself, tomorrow, of what I've been up to?
It's been a rollercoaster, that's for sure!
That's pretty good moulding. I thought they were PE mate.
I'll get some pictures up myself, tomorrow, of what I've been up to?
It's been a rollercoaster, that's for sure!
20 July, 21:50
Goldman
Great progress with the DAF
I do hope Revell will re-release all of its classic and colorful kits like this one. It will looks amazing with all the decals.
Great progress with the DAF
I do hope Revell will re-release all of its classic and colorful kits like this one. It will looks amazing with all the decals.
30 July, 07:16
Martin Oostrom
Started with the decals. They're a bit older and fragile. Should have read the instructions better. Would have made life a bit easier now.
I don't know what Revell were thinking, but some of the curves are too steep for these decals. It takes a lot of softener, a hairdryer and a boatload of patience to get them right. Even then they tore in places. And I've only done 5 pieces.
Started with the decals. They're a bit older and fragile. Should have read the instructions better. Would have made life a bit easier now.
I don't know what Revell were thinking, but some of the curves are too steep for these decals. It takes a lot of softener, a hairdryer and a boatload of patience to get them right. Even then they tore in places. And I've only done 5 pieces.
30 July, 17:09
Bozzer
Sorry to hear about your bad experience mate.
However, it's definitely made a difference, and I know, that it looks bloody fantastic!
This is why I'm not a big fan of decals. It's the worst part of any build, for me. Hence why I push myself, with my airbrushing? But, I have to be in the correct mood, in the correct conditions.
The decals on my Turnpiker, were terrible. The amount of decals softener that I used, started to affect the clear coat. Next time, I'm going to airbrush everything, and then put them both together, so you guys can give me your honest verdict.
But to try and airbrush those beautiful decals, that you have there, would take me years!
Do you think, you would have been better trying to copy them on your own decal paper, and trying it that way?
Sorry to hear about your bad experience mate.
However, it's definitely made a difference, and I know, that it looks bloody fantastic!
This is why I'm not a big fan of decals. It's the worst part of any build, for me. Hence why I push myself, with my airbrushing? But, I have to be in the correct mood, in the correct conditions.
The decals on my Turnpiker, were terrible. The amount of decals softener that I used, started to affect the clear coat. Next time, I'm going to airbrush everything, and then put them both together, so you guys can give me your honest verdict.
But to try and airbrush those beautiful decals, that you have there, would take me years!
Do you think, you would have been better trying to copy them on your own decal paper, and trying it that way?
30 July, 17:51
Joe Kim
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Grumman F8F-1 Bearcat (Blue Angels Aircraft)Нов: 29 July, 19:50 1:72
Decals applied and model completed. The DRAW decals behaved very nicely. I followed the included instructions, which mad...
16 21 July, 00:31
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