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Skyhiker
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18 26 May 2020, 19:03
Skyhiker
The canopy on this kit was awful. It didn't fit and was cracked when I opened the box. But since I didn't have any other ideas I used it anyway.
The canopy on this kit was awful. It didn't fit and was cracked when I opened the box. But since I didn't have any other ideas I used it anyway.
26 May 2020, 19:07
Łukasz Gliński
Pretty good? Wish I could do such a nice mottling. Nice build, despite the canopy issue.
Pretty good? Wish I could do such a nice mottling. Nice build, despite the canopy issue.
27 May 2020, 08:48
Skyhiker
I used a 0.2 needle to do the mottling. I think if I had a 0.15 I could have had more control. A new airbrush is on my wishlist.
I used a 0.2 needle to do the mottling. I think if I had a 0.15 I could have had more control. A new airbrush is on my wishlist.
27 May 2020, 13:51
Skyhiker
Yeah Revell's canopy for this kit just sucks. Also since this is an older model I imagine I could do a better job now.
Yeah Revell's canopy for this kit just sucks. Also since this is an older model I imagine I could do a better job now.
10 January 2021, 21:08
Skyhiker
At some point I have to replace the canopy, and antenna wires on this model, then make some proper photos.
At some point I have to replace the canopy, and antenna wires on this model, then make some proper photos.
10 January 2021, 21:37
Łukasz Gliński
And me naive thought there will be no rigging 🙁
Canopy is as it is, but I would be very happy having such a mottling on my Schwalbe, let's see.
And me naive thought there will be no rigging 🙁
Canopy is as it is, but I would be very happy having such a mottling on my Schwalbe, let's see.
11 January 2021, 08:39
Trez Mackenzie
This old kit is on my bench now! Now I have some inspiration! I have it on this site
This old kit is on my bench now! Now I have some inspiration! I have it on this site
21 August, 17:48
Skyhiker
Good luck Trez. The canopy on this kit is also a pain. Best to sand it into shape before you get to far into the build. Or vacuform a new one.
Good luck Trez. The canopy on this kit is also a pain. Best to sand it into shape before you get to far into the build. Or vacuform a new one.
21 August, 17:54
Kesa Tiho
Love the camo, how did you blend the green and brown on the little green spots under the canopy?
Love the camo, how did you blend the green and brown on the little green spots under the canopy?
9 September, 11:23
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
The Sino-Soviet Border War of 1969, Volume 1 The Border Conflict That Almost Sparked a Nuclear War
Asia@War No 21
Dmitry Ryabushkin, Harold Orenstein
2021 9 September, 11:22
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
Red Star versus Rising Sun Volume 1: The Conquest of Manchuria, 1931-1938
Asia@War No 22
Adrien Fontanellaz
2021 9 September, 11:22
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
The Sino-Soviet Border War of 1969, Volume 2 Confrontation at Lake Zhalanashkol, August 1969
Asia@War No 23
Dmitry Ryabushkin, Harold Orenstein
2021 9 September, 11:22
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
Red Star versus Rising Sun Volume 2: The Nomonhan Incident 1939
Asia@War No 27
Adrien Fontanellaz
2022 9 September, 11:21
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
Red Star versus Rising Sun Volume 2: The Nomonhan Incident 1939
Asia@War No 27
Adrien Fontanellaz
2022 9 September, 11:21
kkoori
търси този кит
търси този кит
Sandinista Guerilla and Post 1979 Revolutionary Army
Star Decals 1:35
35-C1341 2022 Нова матрица Multi topic (3)9 September, 11:21
LUKAS Hrubes
търси този кит
търси този кит
CH-54A Tarhe - Weighted Wheels Set
ResKit 1:35
RS35-0035 9 September, 11:20
Mario Moser
притежава кита
притежава кита
KV Soviet Heavy Tanks Prototypes – Pre-Series – KV-1 – KV-2 and the German KW I/KW...
Jochen Vollert
2024 9 September, 11:19
LUKAS Hrubes
търси този кит
търси този кит
CH-54A "Tarhe" Folded main rotor with blade fold restraint systems
ResKit 1:35
RSU35-0045 2024 Нова матрица 9 September, 11:19
Scott Dutton
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6 снимки
UK Sherman (M4A4) VC FireflyНов: 9 September, 11:16 1:35
Проект: UK Sherman (M4A4) VC Firefly
1 9 September, 11:16
Soeren R.
маркира кита като поръчан
маркира кита като поръчан
AGM-114K Hellfire II missiles AH-64, AH-1, UH-60, SH-60, Tiger, OH-58, RAH-66, MQ-1, MQ-9 - (4 Pcs.)
ResKit 1:35
RS35-0029 9 September, 11:15
Spanjaard@SCM Data suggestions
the below searches will give a few more duplicated clubs
SCM Search: Oregon Mid-Valley Modelers
SCM Search: North Bay Scale Modelers
SCM Search: IPMS Hawaii, Battleship Row
SCM Search: Georgia Mountain Modelers
SCM Search: IPMS Malvern Hills Modelling
SCM Search: Modeliuok
SCM Search: VALHALLA
SCM Search: lisboa
SCM Search: IPMS Roscoe Turner
SCM Search: triad
Probably also duplicated
SCM Search: Hong Kong Scale Modelling Society
SCM Search: IPMS FRESNO SCALE MODELERS
this one seems more an event than a club.
Oregon Modelers Society Fall Show (21. 九月, Clackamas, OR US)
and this one seem certainly needs to be deleted
scalemates.com/sites/site.php?id=3299
SCM Search: Oregon Mid-Valley Modelers
SCM Search: North Bay Scale Modelers
SCM Search: IPMS Hawaii, Battleship Row
SCM Search: Georgia Mountain Modelers
SCM Search: IPMS Malvern Hills Modelling
SCM Search: Modeliuok
SCM Search: VALHALLA
SCM Search: lisboa
SCM Search: IPMS Roscoe Turner
SCM Search: triad
Probably also duplicated
SCM Search: Hong Kong Scale Modelling Society
SCM Search: IPMS FRESNO SCALE MODELERS
this one seems more an event than a club.
Oregon Modelers Society Fall Show (21. 九月, Clackamas, OR US)
and this one seem certainly needs to be deleted
scalemates.com/sites/site.php?id=3299
Внедрено
1 3 September, 15:01
Kesa Tiho
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2 снимки
i found one of my old planes but i dont have the box and i need some help identifying itRevell 1:72 bf-109 G10 for ref
7 September, 13:33
Skyhiker
It looks like a Transall C-160 in a smaller scale than your bf-109. Probably an early Heller kit. The decals look like left overs from other kits seeing that this plane is from the 60s and not WWII era.
It looks like a Transall C-160 in a smaller scale than your bf-109. Probably an early Heller kit. The decals look like left overs from other kits seeing that this plane is from the 60s and not WWII era.
9 September, 10:30
Kesa Tiho
The decals i placed on there were from a tamiya 1:72 F4U-1A. But thanks for the answer, of course ill look into it a little bit more but still
The decals i placed on there were from a tamiya 1:72 F4U-1A. But thanks for the answer, of course ill look into it a little bit more but still
9 September, 11:06
DuperScale
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28 11 July, 21:06
Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
20 August, 07:59
DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
20 August, 16:10
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