Peugeot 306 Maxi & Evo2 - WIP

Washed. 

This is masking sheet of ZoomOn for windshield.
I need two but I only have one. But I have a cutting machine so I can duplication. 😉 

I scanned it and created vector data. 

I got a copy. 

I was about to throw away the remaining stickers after sticking them all on, when I heard a snapping sound from inside. I carefully unfolded the stickers... 

There is no other way than to carve it myself 🙁
I cut the Clear Pla-Plate into roughly similar sizes. 

The side glass is slightly curved to match the curve of the body.
So, I pressed and glued it to a cylinder of the right diameter and put it in the dish dryer overnight. 

It's bent just right. 

I trimmed the edges so they fit perfectly into the window frame. 

Next, I cut the pla-plate to create a rubber seal, and scrape and drilled holes where the side mirrors would be attached.
If there's trouble from the beginning like this, there are often troubles throughout the work, so it's very unsettling 🙁 

Removed the protruding parts. 

Scraped the panel lines deeply. 

The fender was too thick, so I scraped it down to make it thinner. 

I did the same thing on the front fender. 

All sanded. 

The extension lamp in Evo2 is made of two pieces, front and top, so I had to deal with the seam, but it was tricky because the seam location was not good for sanding.
And I don't know if the mold has already worn out, but unlike MAXI, Evo2's parting line is not clean overall and there is a gap. 

I was going to use magnets to make it removable, so I cut the runners at an angle so that the magnets were parallel to the bonnet and attached them firmly. 

On top of that, the magnet was firmly fixed with instant adhesive and wood glue. 

Then place it on the bonnet, align it, and tape it and... 

Just attach the magnet to the inside of the bonnet and fix it firmly, and you're done.
The results are attached in the comments. 

I painted the inside black to block out the light. (Right) 

If you don't block the light, you may find that areas that should be dark become brighter. If you look at the marked areas, you can see that the inside of the grill, which should not be bright at all, is brighter. 

I think this process is very important in car modeling. (Left) 

Anyway, I filled the inside with black 🙂 

One was a deep, saturated blue, so I mixed the colors. I wasn't sure, so I looked at the blue on the decal and mixed it little by little to match it. 

The real car is this color. 

I think it's a color that's used a lot in Peugeot's rally cars, so I made a lot of it. 

The interior panel was bent down so the marked part was floating in the air and I couldn't get it to fit. So I taped it in place and put it in the dishwasher for a day. 

I painted Gloss White without White Surfacer. 

I tried the new GGX paint from GSI, but it has slightly different characteristics from the existing lacquer paint.
They advertise that the new formula has good shielding and gloss, but it doesn't seem to fit my painting style. 

There is paint accumulated on the door and around it. 

This one is worse.
I can't believe I've been modeling for over 30 years and this is still happening. hahaha 

I painted it the way I've been working so far and this is what happened.
It seemed to have a lot of retarder and glue and gloss clear in it. It felt like I was spraying watery starch paste with an airbrush. 

I think you should probably paint it like you would paint with tin canned paint.
Instead of painting from one place to the side, I think it would be okay if you painted it lightly and repeatedly overlapping the entire area. 

I tried sand it for about an hour. but... 

I erased it with thinner.
To minimize damage to the plastic, I cleaned it with a large brush in a sweeping motion without soaking it. 

Re feelings, Re beginnings 🙁
This time, I painted base coat with a White Surfacer. 

I re-applied the GGX paint. This time, I applied it from a distance, overlapping it, like I did with canned paint. 

This time too, there was a bit of a problem, but I think it can be repaired with sandpaper. 

Same. 

This is the surface condition after drying, and the gloss is not much different from the existing paint. 

This is just painted on a plastic surface without a surfacer and dried. In this case too, there is not much difference in gloss compared to the existing paint.
Conclusion: I don't think there is any reason to risk the trouble with this paint. 

Anyway I sanded it.
But the paint on the marked area has peeled off. 

And I recoverd it with paint brush.
Since there will be a lot of decals anyway, and the steps of the decals will also need to be removed, this should be enough. 

The side of the blue car's wing is red, so I painted it red first. The fire extinguisher and tow hook were painted in IPP's Super Red, and the exterior parts were painted in GSI's Shine Red. 

The blue, red shapes on the white car are not included as decals, so they need to be painted. So I first taped the guides with line tape. 

I masked the rest of the parts and used Tamiya masking sol in the small gaps.
I only used the existing GSI brush type, but it was also convenient to use it by squeezing it into the gaps like this. 

Now I painted custom blue and red. 

The decal to be attached to the white car wing was not the right size.
When I looked closely at the decal instructions, the wing shape was different.
I should have made a new wing, but I was too lazy, so I decided to print the decal. 

I scanned the decal, converted it into a vector, and then reduced its size. 

But since it was still too big, I reduced the size a bit and printed it again. 

It seems to fit pretty well.