Novinky
Daniel Mysak
vlastní tuto položku
vlastní tuto položku
Austrian Airforce C-130 Hercules
Brent-Air-Decals 1:72
FP 72110 3 October, 14:17
DuaLipa
vlastní tuto položku
vlastní tuto položku
JGSDF Light Armored Vehicle Iraq Humanitarian Assistance Unit Masterwork Collection
Tamiya 1:35
21025 2004 Změněno ??? 3 October, 14:17
DuaLipa
vlastní tuto položku
vlastní tuto položku
Japanese Aircraft Carrier
Zuikaku 瑞鶴 Water Line Series | Pearl Harbor Attack Tamiya 1:700
31223 (223) 2011 Nové díly 3 October, 14:15
Doubtingmango
přidal nové fotoalbum.
přidal nové fotoalbum.
30 29 August, 17:57
Doubtingmango
So I just finished this little Italian job. The decals came out with a lot of the edges showing, which then got a lot worse when I added some washes. I used Microset on the decals, and then sealed them with Tamiya semi-gloss before the washes, but it actually looks like the washes got under the decals. Any thoughts?
So I just finished this little Italian job. The decals came out with a lot of the edges showing, which then got a lot worse when I added some washes. I used Microset on the decals, and then sealed them with Tamiya semi-gloss before the washes, but it actually looks like the washes got under the decals. Any thoughts?
29 August, 18:04
Bogicevic Vladimir
It looks like you haven't spray gloss coat before you applied decals. Or decals didn't set well. There are two solutions. One is lacquer thinner. Put the thinner with fine brush in dots over the place where you have silvering. Thinner should destroy the film. If it raises paint under, just leave it, it will settle back. Important thing here is that, once you applied thinner, you shouldn't touch decal for something like 20 minutes, at least. Second way is mix of sugar and water, half - half. You make a hole with a needle on the decal, than you put mix on the top. It should enter in the space between decal and paint and, when drayed, make a gloss film in between them which will act as a gloss under the decal. Wipe excess mix with wet cloath and you are done.
It looks like you haven't spray gloss coat before you applied decals. Or decals didn't set well. There are two solutions. One is lacquer thinner. Put the thinner with fine brush in dots over the place where you have silvering. Thinner should destroy the film. If it raises paint under, just leave it, it will settle back. Important thing here is that, once you applied thinner, you shouldn't touch decal for something like 20 minutes, at least. Second way is mix of sugar and water, half - half. You make a hole with a needle on the decal, than you put mix on the top. It should enter in the space between decal and paint and, when drayed, make a gloss film in between them which will act as a gloss under the decal. Wipe excess mix with wet cloath and you are done.
29 August, 18:28
Mr James
How annoying. I've never heard of the sugar water trick from Bogicevic. I'll be interested if this works. If the thinner, sugar trick fails, what else can you do but use a scalpel to cut around them, since you've sealed it,
How annoying. I've never heard of the sugar water trick from Bogicevic. I'll be interested if this works. If the thinner, sugar trick fails, what else can you do but use a scalpel to cut around them, since you've sealed it,
29 August, 19:05
Doubtingmango
Thanks mates! I believe Bogicevic is right. I think I did fail to gloss coat before the decals. I think I'll try the sugar water first
Thanks mates! I believe Bogicevic is right. I think I did fail to gloss coat before the decals. I think I'll try the sugar water first
30 August, 10:42
Bogicevic Vladimir
Ok. There are few small tings I should add then. Heat the water first, when hot it will disolve sugar beter and apply it while it's still warm, it will have more viscosity. Make small hole or slice with modeling knife, put few drops of mix on the top and let it dry. You will see emidiatly if it's penatrating. When dry, wipe carefully excess mix with moist cloth. Repeat where neaded. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it worked for me many times.
Ok. There are few small tings I should add then. Heat the water first, when hot it will disolve sugar beter and apply it while it's still warm, it will have more viscosity. Make small hole or slice with modeling knife, put few drops of mix on the top and let it dry. You will see emidiatly if it's penatrating. When dry, wipe carefully excess mix with moist cloth. Repeat where neaded. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it worked for me many times.
30 August, 11:11
Doubtingmango
Thanks Bogicevic! I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll try the lacquer thinner technique. I love this site!
Thanks Bogicevic! I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll try the lacquer thinner technique. I love this site!
30 August, 11:26
Mark Sherwood
Where the *uck's this been hiding. Very nice build Mr Mango and I hope the decal solution from Bogicevic work's out🤞
Where the *uck's this been hiding. Very nice build Mr Mango and I hope the decal solution from Bogicevic work's out🤞
31 August, 21:31
Doubtingmango
Thanks Mark! So I punched some holes in the decals and applied the warm sugar water, but unfortunately it did not seem to make a noticeable difference. I decided my best shot was to just grab the scalpel and remove the decals, which was very easy. Bogicevic said the solution would get under the decals! I have successfully applied new decals, and my little Italian job is now base-worthy. New pics to come.
Thanks Mark! So I punched some holes in the decals and applied the warm sugar water, but unfortunately it did not seem to make a noticeable difference. I decided my best shot was to just grab the scalpel and remove the decals, which was very easy. Bogicevic said the solution would get under the decals! I have successfully applied new decals, and my little Italian job is now base-worthy. New pics to come.
31 August, 23:14
Bogicevic Vladimir
Well, you find a solution, which is the most important thing. I can not know why something that worked for me many times does not work for you in this case. Maybe that what I think is silvering is residual glue from decal paper. Who knows... Anyway, good luck with your project.
Well, you find a solution, which is the most important thing. I can not know why something that worked for me many times does not work for you in this case. Maybe that what I think is silvering is residual glue from decal paper. Who knows... Anyway, good luck with your project.
31 August, 23:56
John
All's well that ends well. 👍 Mango, your builds have me hankering to do some armor but I still have commitments to do a couple more a/c. When I do get a chance, part of me wants to start small with a Pz IV, but another part says go for broke and do a Maus!
All's well that ends well. 👍 Mango, your builds have me hankering to do some armor but I still have commitments to do a couple more a/c. When I do get a chance, part of me wants to start small with a Pz IV, but another part says go for broke and do a Maus!
1 September, 01:33
Doubtingmango
As promised, new pics of the new decals have been added, along with pics of the work I have started on the base. Once again, thank you for the help Bogicevic!
As promised, new pics of the new decals have been added, along with pics of the work I have started on the base. Once again, thank you for the help Bogicevic!
12 September, 15:01
Doubtingmango
More work on the base. Just need to paint up the base and add foliage
More work on the base. Just need to paint up the base and add foliage
13 September, 22:54
Mr D
přidal nové fotoalbum.
přidal nové fotoalbum.
61 obrázky
Romanian lAR-80 Fighter Nový: 3 October, 13:58 1:48
Green sorted now.... light clear coat, read for decals.
Projekt: Hobbyboss IAR-80
26 13 August, 21:46
Mr D
Thanks, Appreciate the interest, lm reality new to the hobby about 14 months, finding my way with techniques.
Weathering n panel lines need more learning.
The IAR-80 was decent price from HB and liked the paint scheme...bit different
👍👍
Thanks, Appreciate the interest, lm reality new to the hobby about 14 months, finding my way with techniques.
Weathering n panel lines need more learning.
The IAR-80 was decent price from HB and liked the paint scheme...bit different
👍👍
18 August, 13:25
Mr D
Thanks J35.
Nice to have the interest, HB instructions bit weak!
They said to paint interior charcoal black like on the FW-190.
But l checked n the Romanian lAR interior was grey/blue.
Engine building next 6 parts deal.
Cheers 😃👍
Thanks J35.
Nice to have the interest, HB instructions bit weak!
They said to paint interior charcoal black like on the FW-190.
But l checked n the Romanian lAR interior was grey/blue.
Engine building next 6 parts deal.
Cheers 😃👍
20 August, 11:14
Mr D
Good to have you along Miguel, engine n wings next,
A small amount of the wing is seen through bottom of cockpit, the HB instructions didn't mention painting it first!!
But the fit of the model be ok so far.
👍👍
Good to have you along Miguel, engine n wings next,
A small amount of the wing is seen through bottom of cockpit, the HB instructions didn't mention painting it first!!
But the fit of the model be ok so far.
👍👍
21 August, 09:08
Miguel Vaquero
Love the idea of filling with acrylic, never thought about it. Does it hold well though time?
Love the idea of filling with acrylic, never thought about it. Does it hold well though time?
26 August, 13:14
Mr D
Hi, Yes lve used it alot and holds up really well , l find the fillers a bit messy and more trouble than it's worth on small gaps.
You do need to allow overnight drying with it for best sanding results.
😀👍
Hi, Yes lve used it alot and holds up really well , l find the fillers a bit messy and more trouble than it's worth on small gaps.
You do need to allow overnight drying with it for best sanding results.
😀👍
26 August, 13:42
Doubtingmango
Brilliant! The putty really can create a mess with finely molded details
Brilliant! The putty really can create a mess with finely molded details
26 August, 15:01
Mr D
Yes it has a habit of filling in panel lines n bits not necessary!!
This technique is same as using alot of paint to fill a gap or high build primer ect...just becomes part of the paint layer as it acrylic too.
But it's not for big gaps!! As there is a bit of shrinking overnight.
Be onto marking rivets next step after sanding... Then need to make choices on open or closed canopy???
Yes it has a habit of filling in panel lines n bits not necessary!!
This technique is same as using alot of paint to fill a gap or high build primer ect...just becomes part of the paint layer as it acrylic too.
But it's not for big gaps!! As there is a bit of shrinking overnight.
Be onto marking rivets next step after sanding... Then need to make choices on open or closed canopy???
26 August, 19:18
Kesa Tiho
If anyone dare look away from that then every romanian within a 20 km radius will undo all your progress like a bunch of wolves eating a sheep
If anyone dare look away from that then every romanian within a 20 km radius will undo all your progress like a bunch of wolves eating a sheep
26 August, 19:29
Mr D
Thanks Mike 👋😀👍.
Ive got the canopy on now, HB do nice clear glass, so I'm having a closed cockpit,
So bit of masking to do there next.
Ive got X2 builds on the go at min.
All the best 👍👍
Thanks Mike 👋😀👍.
Ive got the canopy on now, HB do nice clear glass, so I'm having a closed cockpit,
So bit of masking to do there next.
Ive got X2 builds on the go at min.
All the best 👍👍
30 August, 19:09
Miguel Vaquero
I got to get myself a chrome pen. The result on those details look awesome
I got to get myself a chrome pen. The result on those details look awesome
4 September, 09:53
Mr D
Thanks Miguel, the pen needs a good shake prior to use , if it awkward area you can pump some out n use brush...but work fast.
Best to put a clear over next day as it's bit delicate.
Thanks Miguel, the pen needs a good shake prior to use , if it awkward area you can pump some out n use brush...but work fast.
Best to put a clear over next day as it's bit delicate.
4 September, 09:58
Alexander Perov
Do not forget that the mast of the antenna passes through the windshield and is very clearly visible. This model may come in handy in my albums
Do not forget that the mast of the antenna passes through the windshield and is very clearly visible. This model may come in handy in my albums
18 September, 19:29
Mr D
Ok thanks Alexander, HB didnt make the Mast installation very clear, the show it just glued on the top, will be very weak!! I've seen one build and it's come away!!
I'm going to use steel rod.
👍👍
Ok thanks Alexander, HB didnt make the Mast installation very clear, the show it just glued on the top, will be very weak!! I've seen one build and it's come away!!
I'm going to use steel rod.
👍👍
18 September, 19:59
Ogre-Trombone
přidal nové fotoalbum.
přidal nové fotoalbum.
26 27 August, 02:37
Skyhiker
Please let us know when you upload new photos. I don't want to miss anything.
Please let us know when you upload new photos. I don't want to miss anything.
21 September, 04:44
Ogre-Trombone
I found some time to work on these kits, so here are some new photos. Thanks for following!
I found some time to work on these kits, so here are some new photos. Thanks for following!
22 September, 07:31
Nicolas
The instruction isn't mentioning the stand at all. As the torpedo is under the COG I would try to fix it to the torpedo.
Very nice progres so far. 👍
The instruction isn't mentioning the stand at all. As the torpedo is under the COG I would try to fix it to the torpedo.
Very nice progres so far. 👍
22 September, 07:39
Ogre-Trombone
Leaning that way, Nicolas. I don't like it, but that's probably what I'll need to do.
Leaning that way, Nicolas. I don't like it, but that's probably what I'll need to do.
22 September, 19:09
Mr D
Nice model 👌
Was the Devastator similar to the Dauntless??
Like the subject....will be watching 😃👍
Nice model 👌
Was the Devastator similar to the Dauntless??
Like the subject....will be watching 😃👍
22 September, 19:25
Ogre-Trombone
@Mr D, the Devastator was a pre-War torpedo bomber that was one of the most advanced aircraft of its time. Unfortunately. it was already obsolete at the start of the war. It was slow and underpowered, and early-War tactics left its crews extremely vulnerable.
@Mr D, the Devastator was a pre-War torpedo bomber that was one of the most advanced aircraft of its time. Unfortunately. it was already obsolete at the start of the war. It was slow and underpowered, and early-War tactics left its crews extremely vulnerable.
24 September, 13:49
Skyhiker
The Douglas TBD Devastator, was the U.S. Navy's main torpedo bomber. It was introduced in 1935, but was obsolete by 1939. They were replaced with the Grumman TBF Avenger.
The Douglas TBD Devastator, was the U.S. Navy's main torpedo bomber. It was introduced in 1935, but was obsolete by 1939. They were replaced with the Grumman TBF Avenger.
24 September, 16:09
Mr D
Thanks for the info
Ogre & Skyhiker 👍👍
I didn't know much about them, the pre-war yellow wings are smart scheme 👌
Thanks for the info
Ogre & Skyhiker 👍👍
I didn't know much about them, the pre-war yellow wings are smart scheme 👌
24 September, 19:20
Mr D
Both coming along really nicely now, the flap lines look a lot better now.
Looking like all the build updates.
Good luck with next steps 👌😁👍👍
Both coming along really nicely now, the flap lines look a lot better now.
Looking like all the build updates.
Good luck with next steps 👌😁👍👍
30 September, 16:33
Ogre-Trombone
Thanks, Mr D. I'm trying not to let the asymmetry bother me on the black-primed model. I wish I'd made a template or measured them instead of trying to follow the old panel lines. Still, I'm glad I made the effort.
Pure improvisation, Casey! It seems to be holding up so far. I want to do open or partially-opened canopies, so it didn't make sense to glue them in place, which is what I usually would have done.
Thanks, Mr D. I'm trying not to let the asymmetry bother me on the black-primed model. I wish I'd made a template or measured them instead of trying to follow the old panel lines. Still, I'm glad I made the effort.
Pure improvisation, Casey! It seems to be holding up so far. I want to do open or partially-opened canopies, so it didn't make sense to glue them in place, which is what I usually would have done.
30 September, 17:27
Ogre-Trombone
It's very hot and dry where I am right now, and the paint isn't responding the way I'd like. I'll have to come back when conditions are better.
It's very hot and dry where I am right now, and the paint isn't responding the way I'd like. I'll have to come back when conditions are better.
3 October, 03:32
John
přidal nové fotoalbum.
přidal nové fotoalbum.
28 obrázky
He-162a21:48
Almost finished, just a few more details to add/complete: pitot tube, cannons, gunsight and paint the DF loop antenna on...
Projekt: He-162 OOB Tamiya
43 19 August, 18:50
Mr D
Nice choice of kit, like the way your clock's/ instruments have turned out.
Was each clock individual??
Good stuff, my next kit is a Tamiya, was good quality.
Thanks for uploading 👍👍
Nice choice of kit, like the way your clock's/ instruments have turned out.
Was each clock individual??
Good stuff, my next kit is a Tamiya, was good quality.
Thanks for uploading 👍👍
19 August, 18:59
John
Thanks Mr D. You can't go wrong with a Tamiya, at least in terms of fit. Sometimes their details get simplified and supposedly a few kits have accuracy issues, but for assembly they are great. Had to do this one after the A-20G since it was so painfully fussy to fit together. This is a nice change!
I thought about punching out each instrument individually but it's so small it would have driven me mad. Fortunately, the decal is sized perfectly to the panel so if you align it carefully, it turns out fine.
This kit doesn't specifically say it, but you can do both open and closed engine panel. Since the engine fits with pins and poly caps, you can change them out, which I intend to do. It's a nice touch and the kit is fairly cheap. Pick one up if you haven't already.
Thanks Mr D. You can't go wrong with a Tamiya, at least in terms of fit. Sometimes their details get simplified and supposedly a few kits have accuracy issues, but for assembly they are great. Had to do this one after the A-20G since it was so painfully fussy to fit together. This is a nice change!
I thought about punching out each instrument individually but it's so small it would have driven me mad. Fortunately, the decal is sized perfectly to the panel so if you align it carefully, it turns out fine.
This kit doesn't specifically say it, but you can do both open and closed engine panel. Since the engine fits with pins and poly caps, you can change them out, which I intend to do. It's a nice touch and the kit is fairly cheap. Pick one up if you haven't already.
19 August, 19:34
Mark Sherwood
I agree,after a frustrating build. You can go to a Tamiya kit and get back to what the hobby is about. . . Enjoyment, satisfaction, reasonable accuracy and a decent finish. Good interior John, looks like the 162 is on track as I would expect from your good self. 🤘🥸🤟🥸👍
I agree,after a frustrating build. You can go to a Tamiya kit and get back to what the hobby is about. . . Enjoyment, satisfaction, reasonable accuracy and a decent finish. Good interior John, looks like the 162 is on track as I would expect from your good self. 🤘🥸🤟🥸👍
21 August, 07:43
Mr D
Brilliant thanks for the Advice John..😃👍👍. Appreciate it.
Good luck with rest of build ...nice subject 👌
Brilliant thanks for the Advice John..😃👍👍. Appreciate it.
Good luck with rest of build ...nice subject 👌
21 August, 16:13
Doubtingmango
Fantastic work on the instruments! Nothing like a nice Tamiya kit to keep the blood pressure down to acceptable levels
Fantastic work on the instruments! Nothing like a nice Tamiya kit to keep the blood pressure down to acceptable levels
21 August, 19:08
John
Thanks Mr James. This is a fun little build. These recent Tamiyas are a treat to put together.
Thanks Mr James. This is a fun little build. These recent Tamiyas are a treat to put together.
9 September, 21:29
Mark Sherwood
That's a nice representation of the162. I do like that engine, 'ar la The Fast Show ' BRILLIANT!
That's a nice representation of the162. I do like that engine, 'ar la The Fast Show ' BRILLIANT!
2 October, 06:20
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