Novinky

Sy Bar
Was going to do the Battle of Britain version of this kit but I'm temped to have a go at some winter white wash and the wasp is cooler than the shark mouth 😎

Nicolas
Following

Doubtingmango
Watching

Mr D
Thanks, Appreciate the interest, lm reality new to the hobby about 14 months, finding my way with techniques.
Weathering n panel lines need more learning.
The IAR-80 was decent price from HB and liked the paint scheme...bit different
👍👍

J35J
I'm in!

Mr D
Thanks J35.
Nice to have the interest, HB instructions bit weak!
They said to paint interior charcoal black like on the FW-190.
But l checked n the Romanian lAR interior was grey/blue.
Engine building next 6 parts deal.
Cheers 😃👍

Miguel Vaquero
Looking good mate. Following!!

Mr D
Good to have you along Miguel, engine n wings next,
A small amount of the wing is seen through bottom of cockpit, the HB instructions didn't mention painting it first!!
But the fit of the model be ok so far.
👍👍

Robert Podkoński
Joining the party!

Mr D
Thanks Robert, good to have you on board 👋😀👍

Miguel Vaquero
Love the idea of filling with acrylic, never thought about it. Does it hold well though time?

Mr D
Hi, Yes lve used it alot and holds up really well , l find the fillers a bit messy and more trouble than it's worth on small gaps.
You do need to allow overnight drying with it for best sanding results.
😀👍

Doubtingmango
Brilliant! The putty really can create a mess with finely molded details

NLAWScametovisit
This is extremely clever!!!

Mr D
Yes it has a habit of filling in panel lines n bits not necessary!!
This technique is same as using alot of paint to fill a gap or high build primer ect...just becomes part of the paint layer as it acrylic too.
But it's not for big gaps!! As there is a bit of shrinking overnight.
Be onto marking rivets next step after sanding... Then need to make choices on open or closed canopy???

Kesa Tiho
If anyone dare look away from that then every romanian within a 20 km radius will undo all your progress like a bunch of wolves eating a sheep

Landlubber Mike
Looking really good Mr D!

Mr D
Thanks Mike 👋😀👍.
Ive got the canopy on now, HB do nice clear glass, so I'm having a closed cockpit,
So bit of masking to do there next.
Ive got X2 builds on the go at min.
All the best 👍👍

Miguel Vaquero
I got to get myself a chrome pen. The result on those details look awesome

Mr D
Thanks Miguel, the pen needs a good shake prior to use , if it awkward area you can pump some out n use brush...but work fast.
Best to put a clear over next day as it's bit delicate.

Ben M
👀

Robert Podkoński
I have been tempted lately to purchase this kit 😉 Watching with pleasure and interest!

Jan Peters
Welcome Ben 🙂

Robert, I didn't know it existed until I got it for very little money from a local auction site, bought it together with the type XVII Walther u boat. After reading about it I got intrigued by it, so will build it right away, and cue it with the other subs ready to get a coat of paint 🙂

Jan Peters
Some progress made, fit is very good indeed, an excellent kit to build!

Jan Peters
Ready for paint.
I've added all of the small pieces as well, hope I won't regret it when painting.
Most will be painted by hand, as it is quite small.

Spanjaard
Looking very nice. I have the Peral also from MikroMir, so I am happy to see they build nicely

Jan Peters
Thanks Spanjaard 🙂
It needed just a spot of filler, due to my building ability, the kit fits flawless.

Erik Leijdens
Cool subject Jan! I love the flag technique!

Jan Peters
Thanks Erik 🙂

Jan Peters
Weathering in progress

Ben M
Weathering looks good.

Jan Peters
Thanks Ben 🙂

Jan Peters
I'm calling it done.
Better pictures will follow when all is dry.

Robert Podkoński
Now I am even more tempted to get this kit 😉 Looks really good (and unusual). Good work, Jan!

Spanjaard
Looks quite good! Congratulations

David Taylor
Nice build.

Jan Peters
Thanks mates🙂
Robert, go for it, it is a little gem 👍🏻

AJMM
Fantastic. The weathering is spot on. I can practically taste the saltwater!

Rui S
Well done 👍 nice collection

Jan Peters
Thanks mates 🙂

Jan Peters
Finally got some final pictures taken.

Neuling
Well done indeed!

Jan Peters
Thanks Neuling 🙂

AJMM
Brilliant. Beautifully weathered and painted. Very very impressive.

Jan Peters
Thanks mate 😄

Łukasz Gliński
Impressive, very neat subtle weathering 👍

Jan Peters
Thanks Lukasz 🙂

Haro Rotl
Just found this. 🙂 Congrats on your build and thank you for the detailed report, one can see what you were doing! I like the subtle weathering, rust looks good on white.

Jan Peters
Thanks Haro

Guy Rump
Missed this first time around as well, very impressive build! 👍

Jan Peters
Thanks Guy!

Bas Tonn
Bijzonder apparaat, leuk om te zien !

Guy Rump
Very nice build! 👍

Skyhiker
Oh, this looks like fun!

Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment

Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!

DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.

Łukasz Gliński
Another BroPlan fan, welcome to the club 😄

Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.

Robert Podkoński
Ambitious project! Watching.

Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….

Cristian A
Following along.

Michael Kohl
Mee too.

J35J
Following with intrest! 👍🏻

Finn
This will be good

Ben M
👀

Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.

Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.

If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.

Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.

Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.

What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.

Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.

Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)

Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)

DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.

The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.

Mr D
Good to see a vacform 😃👍

Cuajete
Well done so far 👍

David Taylor
Watching.

J35J
Great work so far with the vac👍🏻

Mr D
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.

Cuajete
Great (hard) job so far. Go on!

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Guy Rump
Very nice build. 👍

Guy Rump
A beauty! 👍