Novinky

gorby
Lovely work so far.

Spanjaard
just fabulous!!! love it

gorby
Amazing! The sea is beautifully done.

Spanjaard
excellent!! and I guess the Haneda facility is scratchbuild, wow

gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.

Lenny Li
I think that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Neuling
Watching .....................

Jakko ‌
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄

Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.

> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!

Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉

Ben M
👀 fascinating vehicle.

Mr D
Looking good, weld's coming on nice 👍

Ben M
How did you hold the wheels in the lathe?

Jakko ‌
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.

@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.

Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!

Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍

Jakko ‌
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉

@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.

gorby
I've just seen an Uncle Nightshift vid on adding weld seams:
Youtube Video

Jakko ‌
Thanks for that.

Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.

Jakko ‌
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.

Pietro De Angelis
Fantastic work, congrats!

David Taylor
really coming along.

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂

Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!

Jakko ‌
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.

Pepe
Looking

gorby
You're doing some excellent work on this.

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂

Guy Rump
Looking great, following. 👍

Jakko ‌
Cool, nice to have you along 🙂

Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍

Jakko ‌
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.

Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.

My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.

Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍

Robert Podkoński
Great job, Jakko! You're a master!

Jakko ‌
Thanks, guys 🙂

> I enjoy your in progress photos.

Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂

> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.

I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …

David Taylor
Brill.

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂

Guy Rump
Great job! 👍

Jakko ‌
Thank you too 🙂

Ben M
Wow, that took a lot of work. Great result, and such an interesting vehicle. I wonder how many of these conversion kits actually get built!

Mr D
Brilliant 👌 Well done a nice custom model 👍👍
All the work paid off now 👍👍

Jakko ‌
Thanks 🙂 It did take a good while, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. And I agree with Ben, you have to wonder how many people actually build extensive resin conversion kits these days … they're definitely not for the modeller who just wants to put the parts together.

FWIW, I also have Resicast's Sherman V DD and Terrapin (both complete kits) in my stash, which will probably be even more work 🙂

Ben M
I've looked at an m33 conversion for an m3 along with a resin gun to go behind it but honestly builds like this convince me to save my money; I'm not likely to ever build it and it'd just sit in my stash. I like to spend money on things I'll actually build.

I can just vicariously enjoy builds like this! I also really enjoyed your CDL build, all the corrections you did to it were really amazing. I like how deeply you research these things.

Jakko ‌
Yes, an M33 would be a pretty intensive build, I would imagine 🙂 TBH, Resicast is probably one of the better "traditional" conversion-kit brands you could go for, but if you can't actually see yourself starting it at all then I agree it's just better to leave it. The main reason I had the BARV kit (and the Terrapin, DD, and some others) is because Resicast was going to close last year, and I don't see any plastic kits of any of these coming out in my lifetime …

As for research: I just want to build a model that's fairly accurate, and when the manufacturer gets it clearly wrong, I try and correct the kit 🙂 That's basically what lead to the detailling added to this model, but also the CDL modifications, adding a FULL set of deep-wading gear to a Churchill, etc. I couldn't have done any of these without being able to ask other people online about things I couldn't discover or work out on my own, though.

gorby
Fantastic result!

Chris T. An
This is the first time for me to tackle a complete resin kit. And when I look at the individual parts, it will be a real challenge. There is an extreme amount of rework needed on each part. Hope I can get it to work.

Finn
Best of luck, it will be interesting to follow

Michael Kohl
I am in too

Robert Podkoński
I will watch with pleasure and interest too.

Alex K
A 3D-printed PZL Dromader???!!! Following for sure!! (The Grand Models cast-resin kit is perhaps above my skills - and I still wait for the Karaya injection one...). Your ag-aircraft & ground equipment dio will turn... monumental! 👍

Marcel Klemmer
Very interesting project👍 I am in

Villiers de Vos
Very nice progress on an unusual subject.

Chris T. An
Thank you all for watching. Alex, I also saw the Grand Models kit for the M18, but I was frightened from some build reviews, there is a lot of rework to do on that kits. I have now the same or a bit more work, but I got the 3D file for free from Thingiverse.

I am really not a Pro in sratch building but I will try to engrave some panel lines and add some more greeblies to the plane. The 3D file is very poor in details.

Alex K
Nice progress! 👍

Robert Podkoński
Fantastic Dromader! (I wish I had one... I have no access to 3d printing, alas...😭 )

Chris T. An
Robert, you can have a look to the Grand Models resin kits. I am much more disappointed that there is no kit in 1:72 and no 3D file of a PZL 106 Kruk. I would spend some money on that because it would fit perfect to the Dromader and Cmelák.

Robert Podkoński
Actually, that is something that makes me angry too - I would love to see (and buy) decent kits of "Wilga" and "Kruk" (not mentioning PZL M-15 "Belphegor" 😉 )... but apparently no Polish manufacturers are interested in preparing these.

Alex K
Guys... let's look a bit at the bright side: who would have thought a few years ago that one day (today!) there would be kits of the Cmelak, the Dromader, the Grumman AgCat (in both 1:72 & 1:48!!!), the Piper Pawnee?! Some are short-run, some are cast-resin, some are 3D-files-to print - nevertheless, something is slowly moving towards that direction! So, yes, I do hope too there will be someday a Kruk available in 1:72 or a Belphegor! And your buys of such kits and your modelling work proves that there's some interest in such topics! Keep it up! 👍

Robert Podkoński
You're right, Alex 🙂 "Always look on the bright side of life..." 😉

Robert Podkoński
I am afraid there is a spelling error on the decals, Chris... I see "Dromedar" instead of "Dromader"... The plane looks awesome!

Chris T. An
Robert, I can understand that it is confusing, but in the GDR, "Dromedar" was actually used. This is the German translation of the word. Feel free to search for pictures of it, here would be an example: [img1]

Robert Podkoński
I have not known about that, sorry Chris... That's really interesting.

Alex K
Nice trivia... and as Robert said: it looks awesome!

Bernhard Schrock
Dromader: An outstanding result from such a simple kit!

Neuling
Everything top notch here! But what about the excavator? May a combined diorama?

Chris T. An
The excavator is still coming. I haven't dared to go any further yet. Let's see, maybe I'll get motivated again in the fall/winter. 😉

Neuling
👍

Michael Kohl
Very well done Dromedar. Anxious about the excavator.

Villiers de Vos
Fantastic work on the crop duster.

Chris T. An
It is not easy to find out with which lettering the excavator was delivered in the color used in the respective year of construction. I'll have to see which decals I print out.

Ben M
What a great project! You got an amazing result with the 3d printed aircraft.

Mark Sherwood
That's excellent, I operate a CAT M3050 Material Handler at work, very similar. Weathering on the grabs are spot on. 🥸👍

Spanjaard
that is looking amazing, and it is not yet finished.....

gorby
Fantastic work so far.

Erik Off
Wow, just wow. This is real model making!

Pietro De Angelis
What a show, congrats!

Neuling
Cool. Impressive work. 👍👍

KYmodelers
Thank you all!

gorby
WOW! Exceptionally good scratch building!

Spanjaard
really impressive scratchbuild!!!

J K
Completed and happy with how it came out.

another bob
Looks great. The details and shield painting especially.

J K
Thank you.

Edbert
Whoah!

That shield is hand-painted, no decal?

J K
Hi Elbert thanks for your comments. Yes the shield is hand painted as there are no decals with the kit. The outline of the pattern is on the shield.I scratched the pattern deeper to help with painting the pattern.

gorby
Nice painting.

Martin Oostrom
I have been drooling over this kit since it was new, so definitely following

Bozzer
Yeah, I agree with Martin. This has always been a kit, I wanted to get my hands on. I actually saw the built model, at Bolton IPMS in January. Those tyres are amazing and the vehicle itself, looked almost space-like.

Bozzer
This build excites me 🙂

Bozzer
Excellent progress. How's the interior?

Qwertzel
Thank you, Bozzer! Right now, I'm working on the equipment boxes in the back. I didn't start with the cabin. I will post some pictures later

Trez
Not a bad kit for age. Mods; Wheel well cut out, detail added / nose wheel well and doors detailed / single canopy cut to three parts - grab handle head rest detail on inner frame / whip antenna added / antenna wire / cockpit detailed - bullet proof glass - AM belts - map case - boxes - sight post and sight - twisted out of view for taxiing - wires - throttle quadrant / wing flaps deflected

gorby
Nice work.

Clement
Interesting pick for a 10 day challenge. But I guess it wouldn't be a challenge without a challenging kit. Best of luck.

Mike Volkov
Thank you Clement! I hope for the best 😅

Alec K
Taking a seat.

Mike Volkov
Day 2/10 on 10-day challenge: cockpit and gear bays painted and glued the fuselage together. Ready for filling and sanding...

Cuajete
INteresting...
Following!

S M
KP kit in 10 days? Taking a seat 😄

Mike Volkov
Day 3/10: lot of filling and sanding.... 😥

Alec K
Hopefully the worse is behind you. Nice progress 👍

Mike Volkov
I hope so too. 😄
Day 4/10: KP has given me a lot of fantastic sanding opportunities, but I'm finally getting to the priming. But it still needs a lot of fixing before I can start painting it.

Clement
"Sanding opportunities" is a nice way of putting it 😄
So far so good, looks like you have a good chance of pulling this off.

Cuajete
Well done so far! 👍

Mike Volkov
Day 5/10: Repairs after priming and some panel rescribing. Wheels and landing gear finished.

Mike Volkov
Day 6/10: Starting the paintjob with colour correction. The colour of the gear bay is grey and not bluish grey, and the wheel rim is typical Russian green and not grey. So I had to repaint a few things today. I use Ammo masking putty to temporarily hold small parts like this.

Cuajete
Good progress, Mike 👍

Mike Volkov
Thank you, Cuajete! 😊

Day 7/10: One of the top camouflage colours is Mr. Hobby H307. The other colour suggested by KP is H305, which is too grey. So I mixed in several blues, green, red and white. I can't post the proportions, but it's pretty close to the Pakistani bluish grey.

Mike Volkov
Day 8/10: The project is drawing to a close. After oil painting I prepare it for decals.

Tibor Szilvai
Excellent work! 👍

Neuling
Definitely! 👍

gorby
Fantastic weathering!

Ben M
Don't prime? Not even with my beloved tamiya?

Michael Kohl
Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.

Petar Žorić
Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!

Ben M
Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.

Michael Kohl
Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.

Michael Kohl
I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.

Patrick Hagelstein
What the…! How could I miss this??? Beautiful! 👍🏼

bughunter
Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.

Ben M
Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.

This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.

J35J
Excellent! Congrats👍🏻