Porsche 911 SC/RS Rothmans - JobLog
While separating parts after washing with neutral detergent...
They all look the same, but each has a different number, so I marked each location with a metal scriber just in case.
They all look the same, but each has a different number, so I marked each location with a metal scriber just in case.
If you take all the parts apart and put them together, it's about this amount.
The marked parts were deleted, the panel lines of the body shell were dug deep, and the surface was cleaned with sandpaper.
The two-piece wing was glued together and the bondline was polished.
The brake parts have to be painted in three colors, but since they are barely visible when covered with the wheel, I decided to stick only the etched disc.
To enhance the shielding power of the white parts, the inside was painted black. I also painted the parts that needed basic painting.
After I applied the Vallejo white primer, I painted the white surfacer.
At this time, the airbrush she had been using for about 20 years ended up breaking.
At this time, the airbrush she had been using for about 20 years ended up breaking.
I needed to paint blue the lower part of the Rothmans stripe, so I cut the decal, put it on the area, and attached the line tape.
When attaching the line tape, if you pull it tight, you need to be careful as the concave part may not adhere as shown.
Mask the entire top...
Rothmans Blue of 'Number 5'
When masked painting, there is a step at the boundary between colors as shown.
If you ignore the level difference and attach a metallic color decal on top of it, the level difference will be visible even after clear coating, so it is better to grind it like an arrow area. (If it is a normal solid color decal, it is okay)
However, even so, there was a part where the level difference was visible on the decal because it could not be processed.
However, even so, there was a part where the level difference was visible on the decal because it could not be processed.
I have crossed the biggest mountain in this kit.
All other decals were applied.
And.... Clear coating.
Painted chrome on the gloss black.
I pre-bent the mud guards to fit the contours of the body.
Instead of primer, I applied Vallejo varnish and then applied a thick layer of white surfacer.
The decal step was roughly removed.
Since the coating layer is still thin, if you polish it further, the decal will also be polished, so this amount is appropriate for now.
Since the coating layer is still thin, if you polish it further, the decal will also be polished, so this amount is appropriate for now.
Clear coat again.
Sanding again
Polish with compound to finish.
After painting the colored clear on the inside of the tail light...
I masked the outer surface and painted the rubber sealing area black.
painted with hand brush.
The inside of the arrow marked muffler was painted in Musou Black (like Vantablack).
The inside of the arrow marked muffler was painted in Musou Black (like Vantablack).
Assemble is ready.
Assembled intrier. I attach seat belt with decal.
Although there is a detail-up seat belt in the separately sold etching, it is almost invisible after completion, so since last year, unless it is an open vehicle, the decal has been pasted on.
Because I want to make it in the future, and there are so many kits in stash that I need to make.
Although there is a detail-up seat belt in the separately sold etching, it is almost invisible after completion, so since last year, unless it is an open vehicle, the decal has been pasted on.
Because I want to make it in the future, and there are so many kits in stash that I need to make.
Another picture...
Under parts assembly done.
Attached wind shield.
The windshield was supposed to be attached from the outside, and the work was very pleasant because the sum of the parts matched well.
The windshield was supposed to be attached from the outside, and the work was very pleasant because the sum of the parts matched well.
The tail lamp is different from the curvature of the body, so both sides float when used as it is.
Soak the parts to be bent in boiled water for a few seconds, then take them out...
After that, it was bent appropriately to match the curvature of the body.
But even so, the right side fell off later and I had to force it on with instant glue.
But even so, the right side fell off later and I had to force it on with instant glue.
Attached mud guard.
It is convenient to attach the mudguards before fitting the wheels.
It is convenient to attach the mudguards before fitting the wheels.
Attached PE under cowl.
I pressed the middle and attached it, but the marked place fell off, so I had to fix it with LOCTITE.
Anyway, Anyway, it's over 😉
Komentáře
29 2 March 2023, 14:47
DennisComing Out nicely 👍
had the same Problem with the taillight. Ended up forming the clearpart with an hairdryer using the cromepart for correct shape and a good amount of super glue. Still wouldnt fit properly...
5 March 2023, 13:25
BozzerManipulating clear parts, always makes me nervous. I'd be tempted to make some kind of former, out of wood, equal to the chrome part, and then slowly heat it up with the hairdryer. You can pin one side down, with a drawing pin, then slowly add pins along the length, as it gently forms? It's a brave move, but once you get it to shape, let it cool down naturally. The plastic of clear parts, is much weaker than the usual plastic.
5 March 2023, 14:29
Rod -I use hot water to carefully straighten bent parts. Never tried it on clear parts though! I have also cut problem parts into segments so bending them isn't necessary.
5 March 2023, 22:35
Christian WI love your pictures and descriptions of the steps. I enjoy reading it all. Your clean builds are fabulous. Your paintjob on that looks so good. Really great.
5 March 2023, 22:52
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Job Log - motorart.tistory.com/636
