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Dave
Nice clean work, looks great.

Skyhiker
A very nice gift. Well done. I wouldn't mind having one myself. I'm a bit surprised that Airfix has such massively out of scale recessed panel lines. If you do one for yourself I would fix that issue.

Rui S
A Beauty 👍

scaleffect
Thanks all.
@Skyhiker that's not something I have the skillset for. Airfix has overemphasized panels lines on most of their 1/72 kits, that's just their "style" I guess. I don't mind it. Maybe the Italeri kit has more accurate sized lines in this scale, but it's also a much older kit so probably has its own issues. I have never and will never claim to be an expert on accuracy.

Felix
She looks great! The panel lines are not an issue.

Martin Weinpold
Nice!!!

Robert Podkoński
Good job!

Spanjaard
beautiful job, great present

scaleffect
Thanks all

Spanjaard
that is a seriously good looking ride. the custom paint job looks amazing.

Ravlich01
Thank you, bro. Very kind words

Rui S
A Beauty 👍

Ravlich01
Thank you, Rui

Mike Thomas
Wow! Great looker! Fantastic paint work! I did mine in the box art colors...kinda pain Jane but still, gotta love those Tamiya bike kits!

Martin Oostrom
Good start Sniff!

Dontsniffglue
Finally got the airbrush and spray booth set up (after doing the motor by hand). Color inspiration I'm using is this:
dodgegarage.com/news..ic-for-tomorrow.html

After some extensive searching, I've found a paint I want to use for the body. Sunburst Orange from Barbatos Rex. I'll probably top coat it over a metallic grey, or gunmetal grey to get the color depth I'm wanting. Here's what it looks like:
Youtube Video

Jennifer Franklin
Nice colour and new too!

Bob Hall
Sweet Mopar ! I used this kit for my Bullit car chase combo, good kit. 👍

Dontsniffglue
Finally have my paints ordered for the body. Also making full use of my new airbrush setup. The finish it so much better than brushed. Ended up going with Mecha Empires Copper Fire, which I'll put over top a base coat of gloss black. I MIGHT do a very thin coat of clear red on top to deepen the color. That might require some practice pieces first...
I'll upload a sample of those colors

Dave
Watching this project. Have to admit that the candy red has nice depth.

Martin Oostrom
I like it with some clear red. So much warmer.

Ben M
The color looks fantastic.

Martin Oostrom
Smokin'!

George Williams
Lovely colour.

Lorraine Lin
beautiful!

Spanjaard
i can not help with the riveting (never used the ones i have 😛 ) but about the panel wash, i can give you some suggestions. basically you need to use one based on a different solvent that the one of paint. so you paint acrylics, then use washes base on enamel or oils. do you paint with enamels? use washes based on acrylics. or use a wash that is not based on something that can damage the paints. after almost totally ruining a model by using white spirit to thin the oils i wanted to use, i decided to try something totally different. Flory models make a wash that is basically clay and water (quite possible something that could be possible be making at home, but that is for another day). the advantage of it, is that it does not affect the paint (acrylics, enamels, lacquers, acrylic lacquers....) and it can be removed and applied again if you do not like how it looks. in any case, my suggestion is to take an old model, and try some combinations on it to see which one works better for you, and use that in the future. you can even use a simple flat piece of plastic, practice your skills with the riveters and then use it for practice in paints and washes. at the end, the best is practice, practice and practice 🙂 take some pieces of plastic, give them a number and try the combinations, writing down what you did on it, until you find the one that work for you. good luck 🙂

Aman S.
Thank you! This is very helpful!!

Mark Sherwood
Acrylics, varnish gloss or satin , oil wash or as Spanjaard states Flory wash. Enamels/Lacquers, varnish, Flory or oil wash. But make sure your varnish is dry, as you can stain the model if it is still soft. Gloss varnish gives you a clean model with distinct panel lines etc. Satin can give you a slight staining effect as the wash will grip the rougher surface but this can aid in the weathering process. So 1. Paint 2. Varnish 3. Sludge or pin wash. Phil Flory does a tutorial on his YouTube channel.

Zuly Espartaco Becerra
Hi, friend
I scrape pastel chalks and with the powder diluted with a few drops of water and with this I do the washing both in the cabin and on the outside of the model
Once dry, it is very easy to remove the excess with a cotton swab or a Keenex.
I hope the information is useful to you. greetings

Carlos Ruiz
I don't have this riveter, but I've seen other modelers chamfer the outside edge of the yellow cover to improve the visibility while engraving.

Alberto
I like the cockpit. Great start, following!

Alberto
Just to put my two cents in, every time I paint then I protect it with a coat of gloss varnish (something similar to Pledge/Future). Then I can use any wash without worrying about the effect on the paint. Haven't had problems doing this. Regarding Tamiya panel line washes, I remove the excess around 30 mins after application with a cotton swab dampened with odorless spirit. Hope it helps!

Spanjaard
pastel chalks, sounds like the home made solution I thought possible, thanks for the info Zuly!

Aman S.
Zuly - Thank you for the advice on the pastel chaulks...I have a set of those and will try the home made solution on an old model.
Spanjaard/Mark - Thank you! I ordered some Flory dark brown and grime washes.. they are not available in the US but there is a partner retailer that sells it for the company here in America. Should have it by the time i finish the build.
Carlos - Thank you! Saw some of the same videos as well. I will use some small masking tape to make the line and give it a try on the next model.
Alberto - Thank you! I use pledge/future on my canopys before masking/painting them on the model. So have plenty to use on a test model. I do use tamiya gloss coat/varnish before i decal/weather the model, and then matt clear when i finish the model/weathering.

Yngve N
I'm definitely following this! The idea of using drilling holes in small parts and inserting the needles is brilliant. Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago 😳

Martin Oostrom
New lessons to be learned

Robert Podkoński
Taking a first row seat on this talent show!

Alexander Grivonev
Welcome guys, yes holding spoilers is sometimes a real pain in the a**, I've learned this the hard way

Rui S
I'm in 😎

Mike Bird
This kit is on my Christmas list! Watching along!

Dominik Weitzer
i will take a seat! awesome kit.

MS K
😎🍿

Martin Oostrom
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Mark W
Weirdly the X series acrylic paint is compatible with Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner, and it then acts a lot like lacquer. I have switched to buying lacquers only but still have some X series acrylics that I will ONLY put through an airbrush once thinned with their lacquer thinner.

Alexander Grivonev
Interesting, will try this out 👍

Martin Oostrom
I understand that the LP's are basically the rattle can lacquers in a jar. For 5 times the price.

Emanuele Matteucci
Top idea to use the official Porsche config on the website! Tank you i'll configure one to better see all the details for the model. Double fun!

Alexander Grivonev
I can also recommend walkaround videos like these

Youtube Video
Youtube Video

great source for all kinds of detail inside, outside and from below

Mark W
@Alexander I'm still new to polishing paint, especially metallics, but my 1st gen Civic build was sprayed with X-34 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Main reason I've switched to this is using acrylic thinner constantly clogged my AB tip with the weather here.
Honda Civic GL (SB-1) | Album by Marktastrophe (1:24)

@Martin it's wild how prices change per locale, a jar of LP is a little less than half the price of a rattle can here and covers 3-5 times as much sprayed through an airbrush. (The low end of coverage is yellows and reds, of course.)

Dominik Weitzer
great work so far!

bughunter
I really like your careful work and painting 👍
@Martin Tamiya follow simply the trend to lacquer paints, after Mr. Paint and and other started this trend. Ok, there is a smell but I really like the fast drying times and they are much more forgiving for airbrushing. When the Mr.Paint colors were new and people asked about them, my answer was always "It's like Alclad in color" 😉

Ben M
The use of pins is a great idea. I've used this technique when I planned to pin the parts later, like on a resin kit, but hadn't considered it in other contexts before.

Alexander Grivonev
Lacquer or organic solvent paints are superior almost in every way to waterbased colors, some people might even prefer the smell 😄 I am just bewildered there is a trend towards something clearly not "environmentally friendly" in our supposedly eco friendly, green and polar bear loving world. Not that I am complaining...

Martin Oostrom
I decant the Tamiya rattle cans and get +/- 75ml out of them. For approximately €8. The 10ml LP's are €5 each. If the paint indeed is the same , that's a huge difference.
And I mostly airbrush with lacquers. Much more forgiving in my hands than acrylics. I donated most of my acrylics to Spanjaard. The only ones I kept are for detail brush painting.

Alexander Grivonev
5€ for 10ml LP?? I sourced them for 2,69 a jar. I have to admit, I have never used decanted paint. Tried decanting once but was repelled by the messiness and did not end up using the paint. I think I still would prefer getting the jars. And if you consider you add up to 2/3 of thinner to the jar to make it airbrush ready the price difference isn't that great anymore...

bughunter
@Martin To avoid to confuse people: the new lacquers are still acrylics! They are in solvent based thinner, in opposite to the water based acrylics. See for example a MrPaint label: "Acrylic lacquer based paint".
For completeness, enamels are another (oil based) paint class.
Sorry Alexander for hijacking your thread!

Mark W
@Martin that could be the difference, I have never decanted a rattle can either. A 10ml jar is less than €5 here where a rattle can is around €12.50. I also average a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio so the thinner goes quite far.
(Currency conversions courtesy of Google)

Alexander Grivonev
@bughunter: I did not want to open the pandora's box either because it is an insanely broad topic but hey who does not like a healthy discussion! I get the feeling the word "acrylic" has become somewhat of a marketing term because it sounds cool and modern. So the consumer will think, "hey I have heard this before, this must be good".

It is basically the umbrella term for the "sticky stuff" in your paint. Paint consists in very broad terms from 3 parts: 1."colored stuff", the pigment 2."sticky stuff", the binder which binds the pigments 3. "runny stuff", the solvent which makes the paint more liquidy for easier application.

The "sticky stuff" is the aforementioned acryl, again a broad term for a myriad of different compounds. There are other categories of sticky stuff: oils, resins like polyurethane and many many more. In the earlier days the painters used compounds found in nature like shellac, tree resin or even eggs. When you paint an object, the solvent evaporates and the sticky stuff with the bound pigments inside remains on the object becoming hard and dry leaving you with an object in your desired color.

Depending on the chemical properties of the "sticky stuff" it can be soluble by different solvents like organic solvents or waterbased ones. Again in very broad terms the organic solvents are the "smelly" ones. But there are also overlappings like alcohol based paints which also can be diluted with water (Tamiya X and XF and alike)

Alexander Grivonev
It is an insanely broad topic, I would say just stick to what you are most comfortable with and enjoy the process!

Martin Oostrom
Or learn something new by following Mr Shiny 😉
And I thin my decanted cans with 20-30 Mr SLT as well. To each his own, like Alexander says.

Alexander Grivonev
I am making progress guys, just the uploading is lagging behind. More pictures in the following days 👍

Mike Bird
Looking forward to the pictures! Santa was good to me and I'm now the proud owner of this kit!

Bozzer
Just to throw my English spanner in the works, if you guys can get hold of some Winsor and Newton Galleria retarder, you should find that works too? Obviously testing, before you commit to the model, but it's an artists go-to, and you just need a tiny drop. Lasts for years, and for the money, it'll probably outlive each of us? Give it a Google and see if it's available in your area?

Michael Kohl
Joining the crowd and start with two cents of mine: I never got along with Tamiya paints. Exasperated I switched to Mr. Hobbcolor then. Improved my results further since using Mr. Color Levelling Thinner and closed the circle with Tamiya and Mr. Hobbycolor paints using the same thinner and about 10% retarder. Now I can use up my paints.

Michael Kohl
By the way: nice explanation of yours, Alexander.

Bozzer
Apparently, all retarder contains glycerine. I'm no scientist, so don't hang me if I'm wrong! However, I did manage to dig this out, from years ago, and if anyone would like to look at the following link, then please do so.
My belief is, that sharing information, expands the knowledge of the hive?
Obviously, it's not my thread, so please feel free to PM/DM me with your experiences?
Alexander, thank you for your patience 🙂

Alexander Grivonev
Guys, thanks for your input and feel free to share your thoughts 👍

When using a brush for paint application I personally almost exclusively use Vallejo Model Color nowadays (similar paints from other brand as well, in the 17ml droplet flask). You apply a couple of droplets of your desired paints onto a wet palette an off you go, you can mix the paint on the go while you are working, it dries really fast, the droplet flask is very convenient. Great stuff. Almost never used Tamiya Acrylics with a brush with the seldom exception here and there. The glossy ones for example for springs, used a couple of times already.

Vice versa I for the love of me cannot stand airbrushing the Vallejo/MiG waterbased acrylics. I tried, i did not like the result. Something about airbrushing these paints just rubs me the wrong way...The way they clog the airbrush and the way they can be treated afterwards goes against my moideling habits. I know some modelers swear by them, I am not one of them.

So where were we? Paint retarder, so far I am d'accord with the Tamiya branded one and since I use it very seldomly it will be probably enough for a lifetime. So I am not seeing myself purchasing a bottle of Winsor and Newton anytime soon, but hey who knows, never say never!

Alexander
Awesome work as always, taking a seat for the remainder of the project! 👍

MS K
Suede of interior is very nice. genius!!!

Pepe
Nice

Alexander Grivonev
Thx guys and welcome!

bughunter
Picture 91 - I would say: Bingo 👍

Mark W
This is a mad amount of interior detail. It's very impressive.

bughunter
That is a very kinky, ähhh creative show here!

Alexander
Agreed, very much like the creativity of trying stuff like this. Definitely an interesting pattern. 👍
Would it be possible to try sewing yourself a fabric for the desired effect?

bughunter
With thin parts it is may be possible to wound a thread or wire around it as mask.

Bozzer
I once saw a guy stretch a fishnet stocking over a motorcycle petrol tank and spray over it. The result was a perfect, snakeskin effect. Man, that was the coolest thing I ever saw! I think it was on Orange County Choppers, but I can't swear to it. I definitely admire your attempt to deliver the right impression. Creativity is what makes us stand out 100%

Paul Shearer
Haha just sneak in while she's not home. You definitely proved the concept just need to fiddle with the medium

Alexander Grivonev
Hey gents, Happy New Year!

Here is the video in question btw

Youtube Video

Kenneth
Amazing 😳 This could make me having a go at building car kits instead of only aircraft.

bughunter
Is dry fitting necessary after all?
The bad fit of the mask and the missing B-pillar looks like they pressed this project out of the door for Xmas business? May be also Tamiya needs money in this though times, but it is bad if that kills quality.

Byron
once again I'm blown away by your level of detail and ideas to create stuff out of thin air... honestly mindblowing. Thanks so much, I'm always learning something new when looking at your posts

Martin Oostrom
Not to rain on this parade, but according to the instructions, mask C goes on part D5, not D6. Could it be that even Alexander the Great is capable of a mistake? Now my entire universe shall collapse!

Alexander Grivonev
Martin, you are absolutely correct and I have made an embarrassing mistake🙂

Alexander Grivonev
Tamiya, I take everything back! Okay not everything, the missing B pillar is still not cool...

Adam Gudynowski
Great work so far!

Martin Oostrom
I only knew where to look, as I have made the same mistake more than once!

bughunter
Martin, that is the "experience of an engineer": you recognise that you have made the same mistake before. 🙂

Martin Oostrom
So that's what my engineer degree is for!
Still another masterpiece in the making Alexander

Spanjaard
masterpiece indeed

Bozzer
Yeah, that's cool.
Forgive me, I've just drooled all over my phone screen?
I'll be back, when the trauma team have evaluated me!
WOW!!!

Lorraine Lin
The details of the seats look awesome!

Robert Podkoński
I agree - the seat is a masterpiece in itself!

Alexander Grivonev
Thx guys, I am very happy with the seats too!

Yngve N
#141-146 adding details to the details. The level of skills makes this project really fun to follow

Alexander
Yes, I agree. Very inspiring and a good reference for similar builds.

Peter Hardy
The carpet texture process was fascinating Alex. CF has got the better of me but think I will have another try! Thanks mate! When will you start a You Tube channel???

Alexander Grivonev
Thx guys, you are too kind. Peter, CF is not that scary, really. Once you`ve got the hang of it it is actually a really relaxing and enjoyable process, you should give it a try 👍

Concerning Youtube, I have thought about it and calculated it through. It will require an insane amount of dedication and time. Time which I will have to chop off from modeling and invest in filming, editing, uploading etc etc. Besides by now there are tons of modeling channels with maybe a couple of hundreds or few thousands of subs. It is very difficult to stick out and those who do have started their channels 10+years ago. Honestly, I think the golden days of Youtube are over anyway.

bughunter
Yes Alexander, and it is not only a big effort for you - it steals a lot of time from all the viewers! I prefer a build report with good pictures over the tons of videos.

George Williams
Watching a video of someone opening a box is a waste of time.

Peter Hardy
George, I understand your point and yes watching an 'unboxing' would I think be a little pointless but there are those out there that like them. In my case, when I took up the hobby I lived in a small mining town in Central Queensland Australia. No mentors, no clubs and the only modellers I met were on Scalemates. I now count quite a few as good friends, sometimes advisors and full time cheer squad members when I learn something new or build something they recognise as a step up for me. The camaraderie on Scalemates is wonderful and I will be eternally grateful to Tim for this site. All that said, a large part of my learning comes from You Tube. As I said I lived in a small, dusty little town 3 hours from the closest hobby shop, any other modeller or club. You Tube was a life saver for me. Yesterday I learned that a Tamiya Extra Thin cement bottle brush can be extended (and designed to do so) to reach the bottom of the bottle. The sort of stuff you learn from a bloke in the club in London, Berlin, New York or Pretoria. A lot of us don't have access to that wealth of experience for a question we didn't know to ask. It may not be applicable to you in your situation but it has a purpose for me.

Alexander Grivonev
I don't watch "unboxing" videos either but Youtube is an incredible useful tool if you use it wisely and purposefully. It is a gold mine of useful information and I've learned an incredible amount from it and am very thankful to the content creators. Personally I wouldn's start a channel though because of the mentioned reasons

George Williams
I live in a "small" city in north east China, I say small but it has a population of approx one million. You Tube, along with most western social media, is not available in China. There is a web site called bilibili.com that seems to get some You Tube material, a lot of it is Japanese. However, modelling is very much a minority interest here, so the internet is my only companion. I like this site and iModeler.com.

Peter Hardy
The mirrors look unbelievably good Alex! I wallow in jealousy!!

Lorraine Lin
The Mirrors !!!
[img1]

bughunter
The polished result looks fantastic, the mirror too! I'm sure this little bubble will not be visible at the end ...

Lorraine Lin
Stuttgart factory needs your help!

Alexander Grivonev
Nah, Stuttgart will be fine but Shizuoka might need a few tips😄

Yngve N
Whatever you did with the armrest on the door panel (the gray stuff that looks like fabric) looks amazing!

Alexander Grivonev
Hey yngvenett, the same I did with the center console (pic 90) and dashboard underside (pic 175). Underneath it is the same dark grey paint like the rest of the part. Additionally I applied a mixture of XF-86 and X-21 (10:3 ratio) If you spray it fairly dry you get this fuzzy effect

Alexander Grivonev
My dear mates, the build is progressing rathier quickly since I have a few days off right now. Looks like I might finish until the end of the week 👍

Bozzer
This level of detail, is worthy of an award.
You've removed the bar, and created a whole new game!
Excellent work on the whole project, Alexander 👍

Peter Hardy
Why do I always feel inadequate when poking through Alex' genius!

Spanjaard
hard to get anything better than this.... but I am sure Alexander will just exactly do that in the next build 😉

Mike Thomas
Unbelievable stuff, Alexander! I was confused for a minute when I clicked on pics of the real car vs pics of your model, especially the interior. Great work, sir!

Marcel
That interior looks fantastic. Perhaps you can chop the roof off and turn it into a convertible so it stays visible. 😉

Michael Kohl
Impressive indeed

Bozzer
@Marcel. If he chops anything off this, I'll personally fly to his part of the world, and apply a high voltage, to his genitals! This is where we're all lucky, because Alexander knows that it's there, and we've seen it being created. Once the lid is on, it'll all be hidden, like a great king's tomb 😉

Evan
That's excellent work Alexander! Since such a knowledgeable bunch of modellers hung out here right now, can someone explain to me why my clear coating results have a satin finish at best? I usually airbrush on top of Vallejo air colors, and only with the alclad's clear could I achieve some shining results but that has been discontinued as far I know.

Alexander Grivonev
Marcel, I thought about your offer but Mr. Bozzer's strenuous appeal made me reconsider

Alexander Grivonev
Hey Evan, it is a broad topic but you can roughly boil it down to three things: 1. Surface preparation 2. Clear coat used 3. Thickness of the layer/ number of layers

I will use the terms paint/clear/clear coat/varnish interchangeably

1. If your surface is smooth, the applied varnish will also appear smooth and glossy, no brainer. This also applies to the paint you apply the gloss coat OVER, if it is flat (matte) or rough in texture etc the gloss coat will appear similar.

2. You can roughly divide clear in two categories: one component (1K) and two component (2K). Without going too deep into the chemistry the layer of 1K clears shrinks down considerably while it is drying, the solvent which is the bulk of the paint evaporates, leaving you with a thin layer of dry clear coat. 2K clears cure/dry by chemical reaction between the two components, while just a small portion of solvent evaporates leaving you with a thicker (glossier) layer. 2K paints are still a niche in scale modeling but if you want to achieve a nice car body finish there is almost no way around it

3. The more layers you apply, the better the result becomes. Also a no brainer. If you use 1K paints you need many more layers than with 2K paints. If I am saying more layers I mean the following: you apply 1-2 layers in one go, let it dry, carefully sand the surface with very fine paper (2000 or finer, just to get rid of the dust particles), apply 1-2 coats, let it dry.....repeat until you are satisfied. With 2K you will need less layers and less repeats.

Alexander Grivonev
This is the gist of it from my personal experience, everyone welcome to add their two cents.

Lorraine Lin
I want to click 👍 for every picture!
[img1]

Evan
Thanks Alexander, I had a feeling that there is no lazy way around it, so lots of (smooth) layers is the answer to a shiny result. I will commit and put the effort on my next project.

Martin Oostrom
What also helps with solvent based clears, is using Mr Self Levelling Thinner instead of regular thinners. That stuff is worth its weight in gold.
It slows the drying time a bit, so the clear can level off a bit more. Flip side, if applied too thick a coat, runners are a possibility.

Mike Bird
What a tease! Looking forward to seeing those "many parts" go together!

Alexander Grivonev
What a beautiful sunny day it was today...

Alexander Grivonev
Thanks a lot at all dear mates, at those who have followed this report and gave a thumbs up or two. I hope I did not bore you too much with my long winded explanations. Maybe you could even pick up some inspiration here and there. Another nice project, another lovely result, tried new techniques, learned something new. Stay healthy, stay positive, see you at the next project!

Spanjaard
congratulations on a fantastic job!!

Mike Bird
Congratulations, this was an incredibly enjoyable build to follow and the end result is fantastic!

Yngve N
Congratulations! It was a fantastic journey and I am very glad that you added lots of information during this building process. I took screenshots and actually bookmarked it because of some of your teaching skills. The finished car looks great, both on the inside and outside.

Alexander
Congrats! As said by many others, inspiring build and the result does not disappoint! A very good job also for the nice presentation with the mirror, looks like something actual marketing of the real car would do too! 👍👍👍

Bozzer
She's a beauty mate! Your tutorial was informative and very professional. I particularly liked the chopstick sander. Definitely something worth remembering! The outcome certainly paid off!
I'm also glad to see, that you kept the roof? Your soprano skills are saved for another time!
Well done mate, put her in a case, and grab yourself a beer, you earned it 👍

MS K
Nice car. 👏👏👏

Michael Kohl
The daylight shots wonderfully add to the overall impression of a superb build.

Kenneth
Fantastic 👍👍👍

Peter Hardy
"I may even pick up an inspiration here and there". Understatement of the year! Alex G, you just drawing breath I use as an inspiration!!! Again, Peter Hardy is dumbfounded by your level!

Robert Podkoński
Looks better than a real car. Awesome photos!

Emanuele Matteucci
Jesus Christ on a motorbike...

Marcel
It's almost like you photographed the real thing. Outstanding work. And don't let Bozzer intimidate you. I'm sure he means well, but a convertible definitely would be an interesting option given your highly detailed interior work. 🙂 For this kit it would even save you the hassle with that b-pillar. Maybe Tamiya is working on that version and is that why they didn't bother with that pillar!

Dennis
Wow. Just wow. Fantastic result as always mate. Thanks for sharing the Mr. Shiny full experience 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🥳🥳🥳

Also reminds me that I miss my beloved hobby really bad. But in the moment there is no chance because there is no bench nor mancave 😞

Alexander Grivonev
Hey Dennis, kitchen table, basic set of tools, off you go! I was in a similar situation 5 years ago while moving places and had no bench for like half a year, everything was stashed away in a storage facility. That did not stop me from realizing a few projects including a BMW Z3 and the green Opel GT. All fun and relaxing OOB builds. Unless you are homeless of course 😄

Bozzer
@Dennis. I know some guys, who model from the back of their semi? (Obviously not while driving)
It's possible to do it anywhere, as long as you have the time. Don't dishearten buddy, you don't need all the fancy stuff, to have a good time? Please remember, it's a hobby, and it's fun! Just glue and paint, are enough to make a convincing model? You could always paint it white and hide it in the snow? 😉

Bozzer
Note to self:
Don't spray grey primer on a truck, in a cardboard box, in the kitchen, because it's warmer than any other room in the house!
Two days later and I was still cleaning up the residue of the overspray and whatever else hit the fan!
I'd rather clean up the mould lines on an old Italeri kit, than do that crap again!!!

Peter Hardy
Note to self. If I am as silly as Bozzer do not admit it publicly. Keep it to yourself.

Martin Oostrom
The teacher in Bozzer is helping new hobbyists to avoid some divorce inducing painting methods.
I can appreciate that.
😂

Bozzer
Lol, I'm just trying to protect you guys and your kahonies? Believe me, it's eye watering, when your Mrs see's a dusting of grey, all over her kitchen! Now you all know why I built the mancaves? She's much happier now that I've taken my hobby to my palace of plastic. I can only imagine the pain, if she smells three resin printers, banging away, on the kitchen worktops?
Stay safe out there, fellas 100% 😉

Chris Vandegrift
Glorious work!! Makes me want to start mine right now! I better finish what's on the bench first though

Lebloge
Awesome work 🤩👏🏻

Alec K
Taking a seat. A much anticipated kit!

Łukasz Gliński
Very nice Dak 👍

Zbynek Honzik
Very nice.

Felix
Gorgeous!

Martin Weinpold
Fantastic!

Rui S
Beautiful Bird 👍

Alec K
I agree with mates, very well done 👍

Jan Janssen
Unusual subject wonder how it builds up, #following

Mr D
Thanks Jan 👍will update through build.
It's from the 1990's

Mr D
Thanks for the likes 😁👍 it's interesting to see how a 33 year old kit builds up ??

David R. Meizoso
Beautiful subject, I'm also in!

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Mr D
Thanks Grumpy Guy 👍👍 bit of a different one..

Skyhiker
Very nice

Ben M
👀

Mr D
Ben👋😀👍

Neil
Really nice work Mr D 💯 Following 👍

Mr D
Great Neil, 👋😀.... Thanks

J35J
Great progress! Following👍🏻

Edouard Carr
Great idea about the watch pins! ⌚ Definitely gonna try this out on my builds. Looking forward to the finished result.

Mr D
Hi Edouard👋😀👍.
Yes l just get cheap ones of eBay, the do different sizes, you can pull ends n spring out for barrel look, or file ends last to have a recoil cannon look.
The gun turret nearly there now....lots of sanding n filling low spot.
Thanks for looking in on build.👍👍

Michael Kohl
Following

Mr D
Thanks Michael 👋😀👍
Good to have you along ✈️

Zbynek Honzik
I'm very curious to see the result. I built this model as a young boy too.

Mr D
Hi Zbynek 👋🙂👍.
Thanks for your interest. Nice to know you had it too, l built X3 the Tu airliner and the bomber. But this was my favourite as l liked the shape and that it had floats n guns.
Got part of tail on this evening.
Keep looking in for updates 😃👍👍

Mr D
Airliner Was the Tu-134

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Mr D
Good to have you along Guy 👋😃.
Bit of fine sanding n tidying to do next then look at getting an engine effect in cowling area.
I replaced side vent for smaller one now, checked photos... and l made it way to big.
Catch you on the next steps.

Mr D
Thanks to Everyone who has liked n taken an interest 👋😃👍.. Appreciate it 👍

Edouard Carr
Hey Mr D whats the Gorilla Glue like? Is it a clear PVA or a resin Super Glue Type? Do you use it just for clear bits or as n all purpose? Thanks in advance E.

Mr D
Hi, it dries 100% clear but is slow.. to air dry ..so leave overnight.
But it's worth it as very strong. And is very neutral on paint and clear parts.
It's almost like an air drying epoxy, not harsh like super glue or poli ...very safe.
I only use it on clear stuff as it's stronger than PVA but not good for general building.. l do use it to fill gaps sometimes.
👍

Mike Montgomery
Don't think I'd trust those decals. The red stars are easy enough to replace or paint on, the bort numbers might be more of a challenge.

Edouard Carr
GG. Now added to my shopping list along with watch pins 😉

gorby
Looks like an interesting build.

Mr D
Hi Edouard 👋..yes 🤣 lm on 12 model with it and never had anything come loose.
Mike👋.... No mention neither! I've purchased some more Soviet stars now, may have some numbers leftover from others project's.
Gorby, Thanks buddy 👍

Christian W
This is a quite interessting plane you're building! I like the shape of the wings. Pretty good build and pictures.

Mr D
@ Christian W.
Thanks buddy 🙂👍
Yes it a bit different, yes has nice gull-wings.
It's a trip down memory lane for me... I slapped one together back in 1991 as a kid.
Thanks for the interest.... I like seeing people's build processes n history....so doing the same.👍👍

Dave Flitton
Looking good so far

Mr D
Thanks Dave.
Will be prepping for paint very soon... Stay tuned.
😁👍

Zbynek Honzik
I'm anxiously waiting at the monitor for the paint job! Fingers crossed!

Christian W
Mr D ... 🙂 I like too to see, how much progress my skills during the last 10 years did. Good for me is, that I own most of my model kits since I was a kid. My first plane, car and truck are still in my shelf or boxes.
Because I stumbled somehow over your wip, I checked the history of the kit. It is rally unbelievble, that those engine openings are on the bottom of the motors. Amazing. I wouldn't notice that without your hint.

Lorraine Lin
Cannot wait to see the result. Your work reminds me of my first kit, it was a Victor bomber by Matchbox (They had a JV factory in Shanghai at that time). But hard find it in the market now.

Mr D
Hi Lorraine 👋.
Glad your interested 👍 there are X2 colour schemes for the be-6 the Soviet green or the Chinese blue, l liked the blue version but could only find suitable replacement decals for Soviet.
My first kit was the Matchbox Electric lightning,.... Built it with my dad....was nice as was 3 colour plastic out the box.
The first models l built on my own were the Veb/Playfix be-6, & Tu- bomber, so nice to revisit.
Got X2 models at min I'm preparing for paint.
Yours is coming along well...."carefully work" 👍👍

Kesa Tiho
Ah yes, my favourite scale 1:no. Following with interest

Mr D
Thanks Cortex.
👍👍

Mr D
Hi Robert 👋
Thanks 👍

Skyhiker
That's coming together well.

Mr D
Thanks Skyhiker 👍
I usually use Velejo or AK acrylic, but I'm going to use Tamiya on this one as it won't fit in cabinet.....and l find Tamiya acrylic is a tough paint better for wear n tear, as I'm sure it's going to need dusting now n then 🙄🤣.
The Tamiya paint turns out to be darker than advertised on the lid n chart, I've ordered a white n thinner to Tone down.
Like you I've had 2x build going on.
The Fw-190 really pop's once decals are on..... Remember the trim tabs are red....l just had paint.
😁👍

Marko
As a child, I once built the kit with my father.
Very simple kit of its time. But the shapes and proportions are convincing and you really did a fantastic job with it. I'm looking forward to the finished model.👍

Mr D
Hi Marko👋
Nice to hear you have good memories too, first kit l built with my Dad was the Matchbox Electric lightning, it was good as had 3 colours... think my dad painted few bits silver too.
the Veb Playfix kits l would buy on Saturday morning with pocket money it came with strange pot glue.
I built 3 or 4 definitely built the Bear soviet bomber...l can remember.
Funny you commented on this tonight......as l was just checking it over ready for paint in next few days. I've just been wrapping up my IAR-80 project.
😁👍 Stay tuned

Weizenbrot
Wow, it would be very excited to see the finished model.Very detailed research and nice details. I visited an aviation museum in Beijing few months ago and saw this aircraft. A beautiful flying boat indeed.

Mr D
Hi Weizenbrot 👋
Yes it looks nice with it's gull shape wing, ione of its rolls was to search n destroy trespassing submarines with it's depth charges .
Think the Chinese one is Blue colour??
Thanks for interest 👍

Trez
Did you finish it? I just necro-surfed the whole build only to be unceremoniously dumped back at phot number 1 lol

Mr D
Hi Trez, l have recently painted the bottom colour, l will be painting the rest this week, lve had few other projects on the go... Won't be long.
😀👍

Weizenbrot
Hi Mr D. Yes they are light-blue for belly like the Soviet ones and dark blue for the rest part. Some of them have even been modified with turbo-porp engines.

David Taylor
Coming along nicely.

Mr D
Hi Dave 👋 thanks 👍
Been working on this long time now between other projects... try n push to get her done now.

Bernhard Pethe
Es freut mich sehr, wenn da jemand ist, der noch so alte Plasticart Modelle zusammenbaut und sich dabei richtig Mühe gibt.
Ein Teil, was ich in meiner Jugend mehrmals gebaut habe, nur leider habe ich keins mehr davon.
Ich schaue hier weiter gerne zu. 🙂

Mr D
Hallo,
Es freut mich wirklich, dass es dir gefällt und ich habe auch schöne Erinnerungen daran.
Ich habe auch den sowjetischen Bomber Bear gebaut, also werde ich mir diesen eines Tages zulegen müssen.
Danke für den netten Kommentar Bernhard 😃👍

Mr D
Hi.Trez 👋
Thanks 👍

gorby
Nice painting! Looks like a lot of masking tape died in the process. 😉

Ben M
Let p equal the number of tubes of perfect plastic putty used.
And let t equal the number of rolls of tamiya tape used.
Then let f represent fun: f = p * t

Mr D
Hi Gorby 👋 Ben 🤣🤣
Not kidding 😲 l need to re stock soon, un-masking was a marathon 😄.
I painted a thin coat of pink primer on the trim tabs tonight.... hopefully not need so many red coats to bring colour up.??
I have enjoyed the process on this one... nice now I'm getting towards the end a bit now.
Thanks for your interest 👍👍

Denis Dogadov
Be-12 is not a modification of Be-6, do not mislead those who are not familiar with the topic. These are completely different planes.
The evil irony of the Russian army and navy in 96 is also unnecessary.
I can also make fun of Britain's modern army and navy.
The color from the bottom is not the same.

Photos of the Be-12 cabin can be found without problems.
myskillsconnect.com/..-vnutri-24-foto.html

Skyhiker
Progress.... I like it

Jennifer Franklin
I can't wait to see it with the decals.

Mr D
Hi Jennifer 👋, hopefully get a bit of time get round to it soon, thanks for interest 👍

Finn
Looking so good, looking forward to see more!

Mr D
Many thanks Finn 👍
Just waiting on my number decals to come .

Jennifer Franklin
The numbers arrived, and they look great!

Mr D
Thanks Jennifer, looking forward to BB decal reveal 👍👍

Mr D
Thanks for the likes Mate's 👍
Appreciated 😃

Cuajete
Very nice color 👍

Zbynek Honzik
From the prehistoric era kit and it's hatching into a nice airplane. Fingers crossed with the completion!

Mr D
Thanks Zbynek 👍

Skyhiker
Oh yeah that's coming along nicely. From the photo of the original it looks like the plane is gloss or semigloss. I think I would go with a semigloss since it's not an airliner or racing plane.

Mr D
Hi Skyhiker 👋 l think your right 👍 just a bit of shine ...not to much!
I didn't think Matt/ flat would be right for water .
Thanks for 😀

Marko
Really nice to look at, color dress and all the color details.
Great model.👍

Mr D
Hi Marko 👋
Many thanks 👍👍 glad you liked it 😃

Cuajete
Those decals suit him very well 👍

Mr D
Hi Cuajete👋
Thanks 👍 .... sorting a bit of weathering now.

Mr D
Thanks for the likes guys 😀👍👍

Jennifer Franklin
That came out perfectly, love the decals.

Mr D
👋Hi Jennifer... thanks, I've taken the masking of the windows now... Antenna and prop work next.
Good luck on your Dio😀👍

gorby
It's looking very impressive so far Mr D.

Mr D
Thanks Gorby 👋....in the final stretch now 👍

CaptGPF
Wow! Following this interesting build! Looking great so far!

David Taylor
Looks really good.

Mr D
Thanks Captain, David.... glad you like it, just stringing the antenna,s. this evening.
😃👍

Neil
Coming along well 👍

Jennifer Franklin
That came out perfectly!

Alec K
Impressive nostalgia build. I also had this kit as a kid, unfortunately never built it. Following 👍

Guido
A bit more progress on the Retrokit cockpit.

Guido
Fuselage is glued together.

Villiers de Vos
These egg subjects shows a lot of details despite the "seriousness". Very nice work so far.

Guido
Thanks Villiers!

Bit more progress.

Villiers de Vos
The size and shape of the aeroplane allows it to look as being able to be strapped on by the pilot.

Felix
Not to mention the wing😭

Nicolas
Following. Nice to see that you got spare parts.

Felix
Dear Nicolas
Thanks! Yes, happy and excited. It did take them a month BUT they told me so from the beginning and i got all the parts. Very happy with this kit so far. What do you think of the interior yellow green?

Nicolas
Hey Felix, a very promising start. Unfortunately I can't give you any tips on the interior color, I only know that with American aircraft it sometimes depends on the factory, as the same type was painted differently in different factories.

Thomas O'Eh
Looking great so far! Any ideas on the markings yet?

Felix
Thank you, Thomas! I am going with the yellow plane from 15 AF. Thinking of paintin the yellow crosses instead of using the decals. And i am a bit worried about the large decals for the nose art.

Kenneth
Following, looks very nice 👍

Thomas Bischoff
enjoy your build - looks great 👍🏻

Felix
@Thomas, danke dir! Eine Woche lange geschliffen, jetzt kommt der eigentliche Spass mit dem Bemalen.

Felix
@Kenneth, thanks a lot! The sanding me took a long time but i really wanted to get it right, it's something i always struggle with.

Edward MacKenzie
Looks great, i am really interested in this build 🙂

Felix
@Edward, i thoroughly recommend it!

Живко Джаков
Following.

boywellum
Great work, can I ask how you went about the weighting? I tried lots of small lead fishing weights with my Airfix Mitchell but ended up having to fill not only the tiny area given but also the room, behind and just below the cockpit, also behind the control panel and part of the room just behind the cockpit, every space I could find. I'm new to building American bombers, all the RAF ones sit on their tail wheel. Do you or any of the people who have commented have any better ideas than lead? I'm really looking forwards to seeing this project develop (especially as I have the kit myself and need all the tips I can get). Thanks Richard. Following.

Tony Tonov
Nice progress, following

Felix
Dear Boywellum
Both the Mitchell and the Liberator require lots of weight. I bought liquid gravity but it's not heavy enough for the space provided. But there is an ladder for the entry door which will serve as a stand. So i have to go with that!

boywellum
Thanks Felix, that is very kind of you, these kits must have been designed with something in mind for them to work with the actual spaces provided but I have never found a definitive answer anywhere. If any other of the contibutors to your most excellent post have any ideas that would be much appreciated. Maybe Airfix expect us to mix some concrete and pour that in 😉 Cheers Felix, BW

Felix
Dear BW, some modellers work with fishing weights or lead? I haven't, unfortunately.

Nicolas
Great progres. 👍
Years ago I build the old Revell /Monogram Liberator in 1/48. I decided to glue some lead at the rear side of the engine firewalls. It helped, but wasn't enoght (I forgot the lead at the nose wheel bay).

Felix
@Nicolas, that must have been a big bird! I struggle to put this 1/72 Liberator into the paintbooth 🙂
I am glad this kit provides a ladder as support. I bought liquid weight for this build but it's not as compact as i hoped it would be and wouldn't do the job with the spaces provided.

Tony Tonov
Hi Felix,
I usually use fishing weights, the lead is more dense and has high specific weight. I fill all available space and fix it with PVA glue.
There are also aftermaket sets for the front interior, casted in white metal and intended to replace the plastic part:
B-24 Liberator Landing Gear ..aft Conversions 72009, 1:72)
This one however is designed for Hasegawa kit and most likely won't fit on Airfix one.
If non of this helps, I add more weight in front of the engine bays. This worked for me on my both Mitchell and He-219 (which btw is notorious tail-sitter kit).

Alberto
Looking great so far, it's very interesting to follow the detailed step-by step updates!

Felix
Thanks a lot Alberto, glad you enjoy my modelling spam 🙂 did you get the kit too?

Alberto
Hi Felix, no, I built the old Liberator Airfix kit a while ago and had similar issues with the nose weight. I ended up using the ladder for the back door too 😄

Pacific Strafer
Hi Felix, I built the Hasegawa Liberator kit same years ago. I built a box in the nose of the plane around the nose gear and filled the entire space with lead shot. I also glued some lead sheets into the hidden area of the radio operator's room. You can find pictures of this in this report -> modellversium.de/gal..d=8276&origin=mb

Martin Weinpold
Nice!

Felix
Dear Tony, Alberto, Pacific Strafer and Martin, thanks a lot for all the nice comments and advice regarding weight! With this build i will have to go with the ladder in the rear section, it is what it is.
To be honest, i think i should have done a flying Liberator. She just looks great that way, like on the boxart. But there are no figures provided!

Jennifer Franklin
Following!

Alec K
Little late to the party… nice build, despite the challenges and a kit that clearly failed Airfix's quality control inspection.

gorby
Very nice work!

Rui S
Beautiful work 👍

Aleš Štika
Parádní prácička 🙂

Alex K
Respects! 👍 👍

Ben M
That looks so pretty. Beautiful assembly, the paintwork is great, and the lighting of the photograph is attractive. Nice subject.

Alec K
Well done 👍

Naram
hi everyone, starting a new kit simple build I hope for the begining of the year.
first step opening windows and hole in the hull.

Naram
1ststep working on the openings windows, gouvernail, and decks to give a less toyish look. uploaded photos. Let me know if you have further suggestion of modifiction on deck and hull. thanks !

Naram
additional pics to show progress. Santa Maria Carack did have the main bridge open and not closed. The kit propose you to have solid walls and paint them in black. I decided to open them. but I has also to create the prolongation of the main deck now visible.
Filled also the masts crippled with ejection pins..

Ben M
👀

Naram
additinal pics I did research and it seem the bow of the boart is incorrect as it is in the recent replica of the santa maria or in the plands. I cut the upper breadge at the bow and will replace it by a triangular platform as seen in the pics. work in progress.

Naram
Finshed painting of the main desk using 1mm band with 3 different wood collor to give some detail to the deck. May be not really accurate but give some interest on it. Next step masking and painting the hull. let me know what you think.

Villiers de Vos
Beautiful wood effects.

Naram
now I getting stuck trying to paint the the hull. I tried to start by a clear tone ochre yellow and a wash with Citadel constrat seraphim. but I am far to obtain what I want in the ref pic I found on the wen. any thought shal I mask aslo the hull to make planck and fill it with more redish brown tone ?

Ben M
I'm building a similar small ship and decided to just use a wash to add realism. Masking individual boards on such a small model seemed not worth it to me.

Naram
indeed will take a lot of time and there is a lot of reinforcment in the way. thanks for the advise.

Ben M
Also the hulls are very curved. Maybe next time I will try it but not this time.

Naram
second layers with vallejo colors (I do not have oil paint with me). still too light for a boat that crossed the ocean. need more work on the hull.

Ben M
I think you got it right.

Jennifer Franklin
Following!

Ben M
You have to lighten up small objects or they are just black holes. My little ship is too dark but oh well. Yours looks great. I should have painted before assembling like you are.

Skyhiker
This is a test...this is only a test. If this were a real emergency my AMS would take over. I want to see if I can do an out of the box build. So far I have almost never been able to. Wish me luck.

Skyhiker
I think this is my first time with an ICM mold. The kit has a lot of flash and is very subtle in its markings. This creates a bit of a challenge cleaning things up because I have to stop and figure out what to take away and what to keep. But I think when everything is cleaned up it should be pretty straightforward.

Thomas O'Eh
following!

Michael Kohl
Me too. I have my ICM to finish too.

Skyhiker
I think I am becoming an ICM fan. The mold is not the easiest but the subtle details and perfect scaling are great.

Robert Podkoński
I will keep my fingers crossed 😉

Cuajete
Following.

Alec K
Same. Fingers crossed for the OOB goal to last 👍

Skyhiker
There was one piece that was too big to fit. The instructions said that it was the backing for the control panel for the navigator. I started filing it down but then realized that Revell screwed up the instructions and it was actually the pilot's headboard. Now I have to repair the headboard.

Chris T. An
I'm in. Good luck with that kit. 😉

Nicolas
Watching with interest.

Skyhiker
Well I blamed Revell for getting the instructions wrong but when I checked the ICM instructions they had the same mistake. The piece clearly belongs behind the pilot if you look at the kit. So either the engineers who designed the kit got it wrong or the graphics department got something wrong. Either way I went with the kit and not the instructions.

Skyhiker
Today I was going to paint most of the day but my airbrushes were not cooperating so I ended up brushing the interior.

Skyhiker
I finished the cockpit and started with the wings today

Alec K
Nice progress 👍

Skyhiker
The more I work with this model the more I am truly amazed at how finely detailed ICM was able to make the mold. It's incredible. I hope I can keep any of those details without the paint just filling it all in.

Jennifer Franklin
Following

Skyhiker
More progress made

Cuajete
Well done so far 👍

Neil Patrick
I'm definitely in for this.

Skyhiker
Welcome everyone. It's starting to come together. Soon it may even look like a plane.

Skyhiker
A bit more progress made today. Now I have to wait for everything to dry before attempting to put on the landing gear.

Skyhiker
Landing gear is on.

Skyhiker
A set of masks would have saved me a lot of time, but after shipping they would have cost more than the kit.

Bozo
Ouch, seen the very first picture.
few flashes but lovely plane with this inline engine version.

Skyhiker
Yeah, there was a lot of flash on the kit. It took me a day to get all the parts cleaned up but in the end the kit is actually not too bad.

Skyhiker
I primed the model today. Tomorrow I will start painting.

Moreno Baruffini
Really a great progress! Bravo!

Cuajete
I agree with Moreno 👍

Skyhiker
I got the bottom painted but I think I am going to give it a day to cure before masking it.

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Skyhiker
This build is making me question why I predominantly use an airbrush instead of a paintbrush.

Moreno Baruffini
I agree with you, I use use mainly the brush when modelling

Mr D
Hi Skyhiker 👋
Always pays to give paint good drying time before more work, l like 48hrs on main airframe, probably why l tend to have couple of builds on the go ..... something to do between drying periods.
Looking good , l always hand paint my wheels, lve done 67 in 2yrs 🫣
Good luck on next steps 👍

Skyhiker
I got the base layer of RLM71 down. I'm not happy with the windows but I couldn't sand them down flat without damaging a lot of details. I'll have to see how it looks when the paint is dry.

Mr D
Coming along nicely 👍
An interesting wing shape.. interesting aircraft generally, nice 🙂👍

Skyhiker
The wing shape reminds me of a flying fish.

Michael Kohl
The wing shape actually gave inspiration for the Spitfire. Rolls Royce - if I recall that right - acquired a He-70 for test purposes. Here the designer of the Spitfire saw the plane.

Skyhiker
That's an interesting bit of history Michael. I didn't know that but I did notice the similarities. As a matter of fact I was just comparing the two a few days ago.

Skyhiker
Well, somehow the landing gear broke on me, so I had to scratch build a new part. Seems to be working now.

Skyhiker
Camo down

Cuajete
Good progress 👍

Mr D
Good job on the camo, every plane probably has variations in camo so box art is good, it does work well as a camouflage that pattern, breaks up the profile well.
Nice build 👍

Jennifer Franklin
The camo looks great.

Skyhiker
I managed to get the flu so I'm not getting much done right now.

Nicolas
Gute Besserung.

Skyhiker
Danke Nicolas

Thomas Kolb
Get better soon!

Cuajete
Get well, Skyhiker!

Jennifer Franklin
Get well soon!

Skyhiker
Working out the kinks today.

Jennifer Franklin
I hope this means you are feeling better

Skyhiker
Thanks for asking Jennifer. I'm slowly getting back on my feet. My fever is gone now, but I'm still pretty tired. I'm taking it one day at a time.

George Williams
Looking forward to seeing this built.

Kenneth
I like the green colour, I've seen one in 1:1 in that colour, really nce!

Alexander Grivonev
Wow, did you actually apply CF decal onto the roll over bars? I tried too but with no success. Which decals and softener did you use?

Tobias Lewandovski
Kenneth: Same here! Last spring, so cool!
I always thought my first 992 GT3 RS would be ruby ​​red after my old missing 964 RS, but I better practice a bit before then. 😄
fjollrosa.se/gallery..ntorp-1/PIT/0B7A3744 <--- 1:1

Tobias Lewandovski
Alexander: Yep, never thought it would work.
Used this, Tamiya 12682, Microscale Micro-Set and Micro-Sol.

Your build will be awesome!
Took the tip about drilling the wing blade and mirror feets, thanks! 🙂

Alexander Grivonev
Man, that looks incredible 👍 Seriously. The decals I used did not want to go around that curved of an area or maybe I gave up too early! Anyway I have to give Tamiya CF decals a try on occasion. Looks like you will finish before me, good luck! Great color you have chosen.

schecter87
Alexander, have you tried Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong? It's always works in such situations.

Yngve N
Joining in 🙋🏽‍♂️

Mr D
Great Paint 🎨👍

Pepe
Nice

Alexander Grivonev
Wow, already finished? Nice !👍

Tobias Lewandovski
Alexander: Trying to work calmly and methodically, and halfway through the build I feel like I'm almost done.
Maybe I'll try to do what you do, build stuff myself.
A little tempted to build a complete roll cage in the next car.

Also trying to cut out my own carbon fiber decals.
Since the ones included really aren't 100% in appearance.....

Chris Vandegrift
Beautiful gloss and just overall construction!! I definitely gained some insight for my build 👍

gorby
Lovely model.
I didn't know about this awful event.

Don Oberempt
Yes. Very disturbing. Thanks Gorby!

Alex K
Thanks for the background on the tragic event - and thumbs up for the model 👍

gorby
Wow that is a BIG project. 😮

Kesa Tiho
Yeah well I know kids who have made whole armouries out of cardboard and treehouses by themselves so I'd say this is a rather small project 😅 But compared to my other stuff, yeah it's pretty big. The more diorama there is, the more stuff there is to mess up

gorby
Rigging takes a lot of time patience and swearing.
I very rarely rig anything so I'm afraid I can't offer any advice (other than not do it at all 😄 ).

Kesa Tiho
Yeah well it boils down to personal preference I guess. But I really want to make this build... Approachable...? So I'd rather add as many details as I can (that includes rigging). Either way thanks for the warning, often the word of a wise man is enough 😄

Lorraine Lin
Wow, that's a big one. Following
[img1]

Kesa Tiho
Yay

gorby
Very impressive rigging!

Chris Ubing
Wow, nice job.

Steven Van Dyck
To do the boot topping, use long ends of tape.

Kesa Tiho
Yeah I know but it's going to be covered up by water anyway

Steven Van Dyck
How come? That should not be covered unless it is sinking on an even keel.

[img1]

Kesa Tiho
Well fuck me.... Guess its going to be historically inaccurate then.... 🙁

Steven Van Dyck
It can still be corrected if you paint grey over the red. That works with a brush too.

Jennifer Franklin
Very nice! late to the party but following 🙂

Łukasz Gliński
Watching and looking for more of these lovely comments 😄

Jennifer Franklin
following!

Robin (WhiteGlint)
First time building a MG kit. And I decided to directly go for what is probably my favourite Mobile Suit, the Zaku II.
I decided to go for the one of Killy Garret from the Playstation game Mobile Suit Gundam Battle Operation Code Fairy. (Damn these long titles...)
It sports a different camo and some other equipment. In the reference image it holds the sword of a Gouf which I printed.

As with all other Bandait kits I built, it's a real pleasure and fun to put together.
The design of that inner frame with the armor you can easily attach and detach is very welcome and makes painitng a lot easier.

I also tried myself on some panel line scribing to make it look a bit more like the MS design of Origin which is used in the game.
That means more angles and panel lines.
Quite okay for a first try but still very rough.

Can't wait to get my hands on the PG Zaku and build that machine again.

Painting is done next step will be clear coating to protect the paint and decals.
After that I can work in a bit of weathering, chipping, dirt and scratches but just minimal.

Robin (WhiteGlint)
A bit of progress here. Painting done and sealed with clear coat. But It seems I was not very good at that. Due to some parts moving agains another I scratched down quite a lot of paint on the legs. MIght be able to hide it a bit or make it look like weathering.
Decals attached but I am not done yet. I managed to destroy the big "Principality of Zeon" decal for the shield and had to order a new one. Now I need to wait for it to arrive.
Once that is applied I can add a few more layers of Tamiya Clear or semi-gloss/satin and begin weathering.

Dash Rendar
Don't worry about scratches, you can easily patch those up, I think. Looking great so far!

Mark W
Very cool build. This is probably one of my favorite MGs, which is very impressive considering the age of the mold.
If mass production suits are your cup of tea the MG RX-79[G] is the suit that ties this one for my favorite to build.

Dave
I love it. Nice work. 👌

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Thanks mates!
Mark: I have a few more MG in my stash, not sure which one I will build next. I do plan to work on a red Pixy Gundam at some point for which I will use a conversion kit for the MG RX-79[ G] Ground Gundam. It's a resin cast conversion kit so I am still a bit hesitant, because I am not sure what awaits me.

Gotta take the plunge at some point, I guess.

Mark W
I've never done a conversion kit for gunpla, they always look so cool though!
And Pixy Gundam is an awesome subject, good luck!

Robert Podkoński
Good job. Deserves more photos!

gorby
I agree with Robert.

shaneq718
Thanks! I'll see what I can do 😉

Bob Hall
Memories ! Busted a many, knees, shins and heads in one of these ! 👍

Rodrigo José Barbosa Francisco

Thank you for your service!

Guy Rump
Another Japanese WW2 aircraft for my stable of differing types. 🙂

Mark Sherwood
This was one of my favourite Hasegawa kits. Enjoy and I'm in. 🤟🥸👍

Nicolas
👀

Mr D
Hi Guy 👋
Nice project... good luck with it 👍👍

Lost_Erik
May i take a seat?
Maybe bring/send some popcorn?

Jennifer Franklin
Following

Robert Podkoński
Taking a seat as well

Moreno Baruffini
Following as well!

Guy Rump
Made a start with the cockpit, internal windows and masked. Interior painted with Ammo Mitsubishi Interior Green. 🙂

A warm welcome Mark, Nicolas, Mr D, Lost_Erik, Jennifer & Robert. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Lorraine L, Jennifer F, Mark S, Pietro DA, Nicolas, Alberto M, Robert P, Lost_Erik, Mr D, Duster_d & 2 other mates. 👍

Guy Rump
Fuselage now together, next will be the wings and tail. 🙂

You're always welcome Moreno. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Moreno B & Matti T. 👍

Guy Rump
Wings and tail added. Internals filled with tissue ready for primer being added. 👍

Mr D
Hi Guy 👋 Good to see the Ki shaping up , are you paint like the box-art ??
👍👍

Guy Rump
Primer added and pre-shading done. 🙂

Thanks for your comment Mr D, yes I'm going to use the box art as my guide as the instructions are all in Japanese. 👍

Many thanks mate for your interest and like Mirko R. 👍

Guy Rump
Underside of the aircraft painted Vallejo Model Air IJA Grey Green. Next will be the upper of the aircraft. 🙂

Many thanks mate for your interest and like Bobr. 👍

Mr D
Nice...so the Japanese used a Grey/green 👍👍

Guy Rump
Vallejo Model Air aluminium painted in areas that will be chipped later on. Next is Vallejo Model Air IJA Midouri Green as the main upper colour. 🙂

@ Mr D, yes, the Imperial Japanese Army Air Force used both a grey green and a light grey green for the undersides of most of their aircraft. 👍

Many thanks mates for your interest and likes Martin W & Djordje N. 👍

Guy Rump
The main upper colour has now been applied, Vallejo IJA Midouri Green. Next will be another darker green towards the back of the aircraft and the yellow bars on the front of the wings. 🙂

Guy Rump
Vallejo Model Air IJA Olive Green added towards the rear of the aircraft. Vallejo Model Air RLM04 Yellow added to fronts of wings. Next will bee adding chipping to the fuselage and wings. 🙂

Many thanks mate for your interest and like walaroo. 👍

Guy Rump
Weathering (chipping) now completed. Next will be varnishing and placing the decals in place. 🙂

Many thanks mate for your interest and like Neil. 👍

Guy Rump
Now completed. The aircraft denoted is one with 44th Sentai in China during 1941. 🙂

Many thanks mate for your interest and like Desert M. 👍

Moreno Baruffini
Well done!!!!

Nicolas
good result. 👍

Mr D
Very nice Guy 👍👍 love like it, well done on a good job 👏👍

Jennifer Franklin
Charming work, Guy!

Nicolas
As soon as I finish one of my 3 current projects (2 of them ar nearly done) I will start with this little helicopter.

Nicolas
The build startet this weekend.

Nicolas
As I am covid positive (fortunately only with very mild syntomas) I had some time to build again today. So far I am positively surprised by the accuracy of fit. There are no locator pins, but I can now click the fuselage and cockpit together and even the tail section holds without glue.

Nicolas
I would like to do some rivets on the exteriour, but I couldn't find some good drawings. If somebody has a hint I would be grateful.

Nicolas
Today I started installing the controls. Doing so I noticed, the collectiv controls are missinh in the kit. So I started scratchbuilding them after photos. Also fabricated and installed blinds for the paxes.

Nicolas
Started some work on the exteriour.

Freak
Interesting project! Love the WIP pics and demo of various detailing techniques.

Nicolas
Hi Freak, welcome on board.

Shar Dipree
I have the same kit too. I'm really looking forward to your results. Following. 🙂

Nicolas
Hi Shar, welcome.

Łukasz Gliński
Cool, will watch. Still afraid to start mine 😄

Nicolas
Welcome Łukasz, there is no reason to be afraid. The fit seams quite good, and the missing details is somthin one can improve. 😉

Qwertzel
Sieht gut aus! Nehme auch mal Platz

Nicolas
Moin Quertzel, Danke für das Lob. Noch sind Sitze im Hubschrauber frei. 😉

bughunter
The Colani design is cool 👍 Have fun!
And I hope your covid is gone without bad effects!

Nicolas
Hi Bughunter, thanks.
Covid wasn't to bad, I got 3 day with mild syntomas and 5 days waiting for a negativ test. 😉

Mr D
Done some nice improvements Nicolas... Be worth it, it's good to do this as puts a nice personal touch on it, l need to pick up some card like you have used ( what is it l need to look for ?)
The 2 Revell models l built ...l found the decals took a bit more softening than others models l have done!? the decals said made in Italy....no company name.
Looking good 👍 be nice bright unusual one this 😁

Nicolas
Hallo Mr D and thanks.

You can look for plastic sheets and profiles (tubes, chanels, I-beams, etc,) from various manufacturers like AK or Evergreen or use packing material eg. most blisterpacks. 😉

Guy Rump
Looking good Nicolas, following. 👍

Mr D
Hi Nicolas, doing a good job on the extra detail bits.
Be worth it, you only get to build it once...so worth getting it how you want it.
Nice 👍👍👍

Nicolas
Hallo Guy & Mr D, welcome, have a seat.
Thanks for your compliments.

Kesa Tiho
Very nice build. Ive always been curious though, how do you get such a precise paint job. Especially with the interior.

Nicolas
Hi Kesa, I do most of the interior freehand with a small brush (mostly size 000, but details sometimes with size 10/0) and well diluted paint. You kan put your brushhand onto the hand holding the part to reduce shaking.

Mr D
Looking good Nicolas 👍
Taking good shape now.
What do you use for a primer??
😃👍

Nicolas
Thanks Mr. D. I used Mr. Hobbys Aqueous white surfacer 1000.

Nicolas
After sanding, priming and repainting the helicopter several times today, there's not much new here, but I used the drying time as much as possible to start on the first figures for the diorama.

Nicolas
The helicopter was sanded, primed, filled and primed again today. In the meantime, I'm almost satisfied with the result. Visible progress has only been made on the figures.

Finn
Following

Mr D
Like the window shade's 👍

Nicolas
Welcome Finn, thanks Mr D.
After 2 weekends without crafting (1x at an exhibition, 1x food poisoning) the work continues here. I have started painting the figures. I was also able to start on the diorama base plate. This represents the windowless top floor of a high-rise building in which the technology such as elevators, fire water supply or air conditioning is located. A subsequently mounted helipad is then installed on the roof.

Patrick Hagelstein
Hi Nicolas! Sorry to hear that you were ill... Hopefully things are getting better now! I'm also sorry you had to scrub those Preiser figures as Preiser offers these exact figures in 1/72 in bare white plastic as well. I had my local hobby shop (in Aachen) order them for me from the Preiser catalogue. Maybe something for a next project?

Michael Kohl
Some work is going into this. Keep it up.

Mr D
Hi Nicolas 👋 glad your getting back to a bit of modeling... Diorama sounds interesting 👍

Nicolas
Welcome Michael & Patrick
@ Patrick: I know, I have already used the unpainted figures in another project. But unfortunately I couldn't get them from the local dealer or on ebay or similar.

Cuajete
Well done so far 👍

Nicolas
Thanks

Patrick Hagelstein
Ah, Ok! But luckily, you are aware of their existence. ☺️👍🏼

Mr D
The building are looking good Nicolas... Looks like a rooftop exit
😃👍

Nicolas
Thanks Mr. D, hopefully I can get back to work soon. Unfortunately I injured my elbow 3 weeks ago and since then I can't even hold light objects like paintbrushes.

Shar Dipree
Looks great so far. 👍🏼

Mr D
All the best Nicolas... You be back to it when your ready 😃👍

Nicolas
Thanks 👍

Cuajete
Nicolas, I wish you a speedy recovery. Cheer up!

Nicolas
Thank you.

Freak
Gute Besserung, Nicolas!

Nicolas
Dankeschön. Mit etwas Glück kann ich zu den Feiertagen wieder ein wenig was machen.

Mr D
How you doing Nicolas 👋.
I see another Revell Space Design is coming up in the news feed's
👍

Nicolas
Hi Mr. D, thanks for asking. The swelling in my elbow has gone down considerably and I can move my fingers again, although I still lack any sensitivity. I wanted to try in the next few days whether I can clamp the figures in the 3rd hand (holder for soldering) and at least continue painting a bit. Unfortunately, cutting, sanding, gluing or filing is still out of the question.

Jennifer Franklin
I wish you a safe and speedy recovery.

Shar Dipree
Get well soon and a speedy recovery.

Nicolas
Thank You. 👍

Patrick Hagelstein
Get well soon, Nicolas! 👍

Nicolas
Thanks Patrick.
Today I tried a bit of painting. It didn't work too well, as I couldn't open the paint jars. But I think it can only be a matter of days now.

Cuajete
Cheer up, Nicolas!

Nicolas
Model making again at last. After 9 weeks, the injured arm was halfway functional again, but nerve damage (when the swelling went away over Christmas, a tendon unfortunately went wrong and pinched the nerve in the elbow) and the effort at work (initially with reduced working hours) did not allow any model building. And the apartment also had to be tidied up, in effectively 10 weeks with only one arm a lot has been neglected. Many thanks to everyone for the recovery wishes. In 2 times about 50 min I started today with the air conditioners.

Cuajete
Nicolas, I'm glad you're feeling better. Welcome!
Those air conditioners look great 👍

Nicolas
Thanks Cuajete

Patrick Hagelstein
Oh dear! That's some really bad luck Nicolas… 😕 Did the tendon eventually return to its right spot?

Lorraine Lin
Nicolas, hope you'll fully recover soon.

Mr D
Good to see you back at the building board 😀👍
Nice bit of AC..in progress

Nicolas
Thanks guys.
Yes Patrick, the tendon snaped back in position one day before my apointment at the specialist. SInce than I got back most of my mobility , control over the arm (the muscles were just twitching uncontrolable) and a bit of my strength. I still get physiotherapy and muscle training, but it's getteng better every day.

Patrick Hagelstein
Well, isn't that some irony? 😉 But a good thing though. I hope everything heals the way it should from now on! 👍🏼

Jennifer Franklin
My wishes for a full recovery.

Pepe
❤️

Spanjaard
awesome.