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Best Mecha Collection
RX-78-2 Gundam (REVIVAL Ver.)Bandai Spirits 1:144
5067411 (2756462) 2024 Neue Bausatzform 19 October, 07:21
Jakko
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74 Bilder
Sherman BARVNeu: 18 October, 12:36 1:35
The model is now finished!
Projekt: Sherman BARV, D-Day
44 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
30 September, 16:06
Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
30 September, 16:20
Jakko
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
30 September, 17:08
Ben M
Wow, that took a lot of work. Great result, and such an interesting vehicle. I wonder how many of these conversion kits actually get built!
Wow, that took a lot of work. Great result, and such an interesting vehicle. I wonder how many of these conversion kits actually get built!
18 October, 12:41
Jakko
Thanks 🙂 It did take a good while, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. And I agree with Ben, you have to wonder how many people actually build extensive resin conversion kits these days … they're definitely not for the modeller who just wants to put the parts together.
FWIW, I also have Resicast's Sherman V DD and Terrapin (both complete kits) in my stash, which will probably be even more work 🙂
Thanks 🙂 It did take a good while, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. And I agree with Ben, you have to wonder how many people actually build extensive resin conversion kits these days … they're definitely not for the modeller who just wants to put the parts together.
FWIW, I also have Resicast's Sherman V DD and Terrapin (both complete kits) in my stash, which will probably be even more work 🙂
18 October, 17:07
Ben M
I've looked at an m33 conversion for an m3 along with a resin gun to go behind it but honestly builds like this convince me to save my money; I'm not likely to ever build it and it'd just sit in my stash. I like to spend money on things I'll actually build.
I can just vicariously enjoy builds like this! I also really enjoyed your CDL build, all the corrections you did to it were really amazing. I like how deeply you research these things.
I've looked at an m33 conversion for an m3 along with a resin gun to go behind it but honestly builds like this convince me to save my money; I'm not likely to ever build it and it'd just sit in my stash. I like to spend money on things I'll actually build.
I can just vicariously enjoy builds like this! I also really enjoyed your CDL build, all the corrections you did to it were really amazing. I like how deeply you research these things.
18 October, 20:05
Jakko
Yes, an M33 would be a pretty intensive build, I would imagine 🙂 TBH, Resicast is probably one of the better "traditional" conversion-kit brands you could go for, but if you can't actually see yourself starting it at all then I agree it's just better to leave it. The main reason I had the BARV kit (and the Terrapin, DD, and some others) is because Resicast was going to close last year, and I don't see any plastic kits of any of these coming out in my lifetime …
As for research: I just want to build a model that's fairly accurate, and when the manufacturer gets it clearly wrong, I try and correct the kit 🙂 That's basically what lead to the detailling added to this model, but also the CDL modifications, adding a FULL set of deep-wading gear to a Churchill, etc. I couldn't have done any of these without being able to ask other people online about things I couldn't discover or work out on my own, though.
Yes, an M33 would be a pretty intensive build, I would imagine 🙂 TBH, Resicast is probably one of the better "traditional" conversion-kit brands you could go for, but if you can't actually see yourself starting it at all then I agree it's just better to leave it. The main reason I had the BARV kit (and the Terrapin, DD, and some others) is because Resicast was going to close last year, and I don't see any plastic kits of any of these coming out in my lifetime …
As for research: I just want to build a model that's fairly accurate, and when the manufacturer gets it clearly wrong, I try and correct the kit 🙂 That's basically what lead to the detailling added to this model, but also the CDL modifications, adding a FULL set of deep-wading gear to a Churchill, etc. I couldn't have done any of these without being able to ask other people online about things I couldn't discover or work out on my own, though.
18 October, 20:33
Chris T. An
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42 Bilder
PZL M-18 Dromader + Weimar T174-2 - East Germany, 1989Neu: 18 October, 20:37 1:72
Weathering with different stuff: Vallejo Rust Texture, AK Weathering Pencils, Vallejo Light Rust Wash, Revell Rust Pigme...
59 22 January 2023, 10:20
Chris T. An
This is the first time for me to tackle a complete resin kit. And when I look at the individual parts, it will be a real challenge. There is an extreme amount of rework needed on each part. Hope I can get it to work.
This is the first time for me to tackle a complete resin kit. And when I look at the individual parts, it will be a real challenge. There is an extreme amount of rework needed on each part. Hope I can get it to work.
22 January 2023, 10:29
Alex K
A 3D-printed PZL Dromader???!!! Following for sure!! (The Grand Models cast-resin kit is perhaps above my skills - and I still wait for the Karaya injection one...). Your ag-aircraft & ground equipment dio will turn... monumental! 👍
A 3D-printed PZL Dromader???!!! Following for sure!! (The Grand Models cast-resin kit is perhaps above my skills - and I still wait for the Karaya injection one...). Your ag-aircraft & ground equipment dio will turn... monumental! 👍
13 February 2023, 19:12
Chris T. An
Thank you all for watching. Alex, I also saw the Grand Models kit for the M18, but I was frightened from some build reviews, there is a lot of rework to do on that kits. I have now the same or a bit more work, but I got the 3D file for free from Thingiverse.
I am really not a Pro in sratch building but I will try to engrave some panel lines and add some more greeblies to the plane. The 3D file is very poor in details.
Thank you all for watching. Alex, I also saw the Grand Models kit for the M18, but I was frightened from some build reviews, there is a lot of rework to do on that kits. I have now the same or a bit more work, but I got the 3D file for free from Thingiverse.
I am really not a Pro in sratch building but I will try to engrave some panel lines and add some more greeblies to the plane. The 3D file is very poor in details.
14 February 2023, 09:34
Robert Podkoński
Fantastic Dromader! (I wish I had one... I have no access to 3d printing, alas...😭 )
Fantastic Dromader! (I wish I had one... I have no access to 3d printing, alas...😭 )
21 February 2023, 18:06
Chris T. An
Robert, you can have a look to the Grand Models resin kits. I am much more disappointed that there is no kit in 1:72 and no 3D file of a PZL 106 Kruk. I would spend some money on that because it would fit perfect to the Dromader and Cmelák.
Robert, you can have a look to the Grand Models resin kits. I am much more disappointed that there is no kit in 1:72 and no 3D file of a PZL 106 Kruk. I would spend some money on that because it would fit perfect to the Dromader and Cmelák.
21 February 2023, 18:10
Robert Podkoński
Actually, that is something that makes me angry too - I would love to see (and buy) decent kits of "Wilga" and "Kruk" (not mentioning PZL M-15 "Belphegor" 😉 )... but apparently no Polish manufacturers are interested in preparing these.
Actually, that is something that makes me angry too - I would love to see (and buy) decent kits of "Wilga" and "Kruk" (not mentioning PZL M-15 "Belphegor" 😉 )... but apparently no Polish manufacturers are interested in preparing these.
21 February 2023, 18:52
Alex K
Guys... let's look a bit at the bright side: who would have thought a few years ago that one day (today!) there would be kits of the Cmelak, the Dromader, the Grumman AgCat (in both 1:72 & 1:48!!!), the Piper Pawnee?! Some are short-run, some are cast-resin, some are 3D-files-to print - nevertheless, something is slowly moving towards that direction! So, yes, I do hope too there will be someday a Kruk available in 1:72 or a Belphegor! And your buys of such kits and your modelling work proves that there's some interest in such topics! Keep it up! 👍
Guys... let's look a bit at the bright side: who would have thought a few years ago that one day (today!) there would be kits of the Cmelak, the Dromader, the Grumman AgCat (in both 1:72 & 1:48!!!), the Piper Pawnee?! Some are short-run, some are cast-resin, some are 3D-files-to print - nevertheless, something is slowly moving towards that direction! So, yes, I do hope too there will be someday a Kruk available in 1:72 or a Belphegor! And your buys of such kits and your modelling work proves that there's some interest in such topics! Keep it up! 👍
21 February 2023, 19:06
Robert Podkoński
You're right, Alex 🙂 "Always look on the bright side of life..." 😉
You're right, Alex 🙂 "Always look on the bright side of life..." 😉
21 February 2023, 22:00
Robert Podkoński
I am afraid there is a spelling error on the decals, Chris... I see "Dromedar" instead of "Dromader"... The plane looks awesome!
I am afraid there is a spelling error on the decals, Chris... I see "Dromedar" instead of "Dromader"... The plane looks awesome!
24 February 2023, 15:43
Chris T. An
Robert, I can understand that it is confusing, but in the GDR, "Dromedar" was actually used. This is the German translation of the word. Feel free to search for pictures of it, here would be an example: [img1]
Robert, I can understand that it is confusing, but in the GDR, "Dromedar" was actually used. This is the German translation of the word. Feel free to search for pictures of it, here would be an example: [img1]
24 February 2023, 17:01
Robert Podkoński
I have not known about that, sorry Chris... That's really interesting.
I have not known about that, sorry Chris... That's really interesting.
24 February 2023, 17:17
Neuling
Everything top notch here! But what about the excavator? May a combined diorama?
Everything top notch here! But what about the excavator? May a combined diorama?
29 June, 10:21
Chris T. An
The excavator is still coming. I haven't dared to go any further yet. Let's see, maybe I'll get motivated again in the fall/winter. 😉
The excavator is still coming. I haven't dared to go any further yet. Let's see, maybe I'll get motivated again in the fall/winter. 😉
9 July, 13:19
Chris T. An
It is not easy to find out with which lettering the excavator was delivered in the color used in the respective year of construction. I'll have to see which decals I print out.
It is not easy to find out with which lettering the excavator was delivered in the color used in the respective year of construction. I'll have to see which decals I print out.
7 October, 18:21
Mark Sherwood
That's excellent, I operate a CAT M3050 Material Handler at work, very similar. Weathering on the grabs are spot on. 🥸👍
That's excellent, I operate a CAT M3050 Material Handler at work, very similar. Weathering on the grabs are spot on. 🥸👍
17 October, 16:35
J K
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16 3 October 2023, 17:04
J K
Hi Elbert thanks for your comments. Yes the shield is hand painted as there are no decals with the kit. The outline of the pattern is on the shield.I scratched the pattern deeper to help with painting the pattern.
Hi Elbert thanks for your comments. Yes the shield is hand painted as there are no decals with the kit. The outline of the pattern is on the shield.I scratched the pattern deeper to help with painting the pattern.
18 October, 21:13
Qwertzel
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13 Bilder
Revell Rosenbauer GFLF Simba 8x8Neu: 18 October, 11:31 1:24
Before and after
Projekt: Revell Rosenbauer GFLF Simba 8x8
7 7 October, 13:54
Martin Oostrom
I have been drooling over this kit since it was new, so definitely following
I have been drooling over this kit since it was new, so definitely following
7 October, 14:21
Bozzer
Yeah, I agree with Martin. This has always been a kit, I wanted to get my hands on. I actually saw the built model, at Bolton IPMS in January. Those tyres are amazing and the vehicle itself, looked almost space-like.
Yeah, I agree with Martin. This has always been a kit, I wanted to get my hands on. I actually saw the built model, at Bolton IPMS in January. Those tyres are amazing and the vehicle itself, looked almost space-like.
13 October, 06:42
Qwertzel
Thank you, Bozzer! Right now, I'm working on the equipment boxes in the back. I didn't start with the cabin. I will post some pictures later
Thank you, Bozzer! Right now, I'm working on the equipment boxes in the back. I didn't start with the cabin. I will post some pictures later
19 October, 07:16
Trez
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1 18 October, 22:47
Trez
Not a bad kit for age. Mods; Wheel well cut out, detail added / nose wheel well and doors detailed / single canopy cut to three parts - grab handle head rest detail on inner frame / whip antenna added / antenna wire / cockpit detailed - bullet proof glass - AM belts - map case - boxes - sight post and sight - twisted out of view for taxiing - wires - throttle quadrant / wing flaps deflected
Not a bad kit for age. Mods; Wheel well cut out, detail added / nose wheel well and doors detailed / single canopy cut to three parts - grab handle head rest detail on inner frame / whip antenna added / antenna wire / cockpit detailed - bullet proof glass - AM belts - map case - boxes - sight post and sight - twisted out of view for taxiing - wires - throttle quadrant / wing flaps deflected
18 October, 23:11
Jeroen
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Royal Navy
4"/45 BL MKIX x1 (Flowers Class, Rounded Shield) Micro Master 1:144
MM0049P Mehrfachthemen (2)19 October, 07:15
Jeroen
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Royal Navy
Byers Stockless 22cwt Anchors (Castle, Flowers & Hunt Class) x2 Micro Master 1:144
MM1195P Mehrfachthemen (4)19 October, 07:14
Rob Tittle
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Airborne Elite (1) Russia's Air Assault Force
Concord Color Series Nr. 3007
Yves Debay, James Hill
1994 19 October, 07:10
Mike Volkov
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20 Bilder
10 day challenge: 1:72 KP Shenyang F-6CNeu: 19 October, 07:04 1:72
Projekt: 1:72 KP Shenyang F-6C 'Farmer-C'
32 11 October, 07:03
Clement
Interesting pick for a 10 day challenge. But I guess it wouldn't be a challenge without a challenging kit. Best of luck.
Interesting pick for a 10 day challenge. But I guess it wouldn't be a challenge without a challenging kit. Best of luck.
11 October, 07:23
Mike Volkov
Day 2/10 on 10-day challenge: cockpit and gear bays painted and glued the fuselage together. Ready for filling and sanding...
Day 2/10 on 10-day challenge: cockpit and gear bays painted and glued the fuselage together. Ready for filling and sanding...
12 October, 07:03
Mike Volkov
I hope so too. 😄
Day 4/10: KP has given me a lot of fantastic sanding opportunities, but I'm finally getting to the priming. But it still needs a lot of fixing before I can start painting it.
I hope so too. 😄
Day 4/10: KP has given me a lot of fantastic sanding opportunities, but I'm finally getting to the priming. But it still needs a lot of fixing before I can start painting it.
15 October, 05:24
Clement
"Sanding opportunities" is a nice way of putting it 😄
So far so good, looks like you have a good chance of pulling this off.
"Sanding opportunities" is a nice way of putting it 😄
So far so good, looks like you have a good chance of pulling this off.
15 October, 05:57
Mike Volkov
Day 5/10: Repairs after priming and some panel rescribing. Wheels and landing gear finished.
Day 5/10: Repairs after priming and some panel rescribing. Wheels and landing gear finished.
16 October, 08:44
Mike Volkov
Day 6/10: Starting the paintjob with colour correction. The colour of the gear bay is grey and not bluish grey, and the wheel rim is typical Russian green and not grey. So I had to repaint a few things today. I use Ammo masking putty to temporarily hold small parts like this.
Day 6/10: Starting the paintjob with colour correction. The colour of the gear bay is grey and not bluish grey, and the wheel rim is typical Russian green and not grey. So I had to repaint a few things today. I use Ammo masking putty to temporarily hold small parts like this.
17 October, 06:35
Mike Volkov
Thank you, Cuajete! 😊
Day 7/10: One of the top camouflage colours is Mr. Hobby H307. The other colour suggested by KP is H305, which is too grey. So I mixed in several blues, green, red and white. I can't post the proportions, but it's pretty close to the Pakistani bluish grey.
Thank you, Cuajete! 😊
Day 7/10: One of the top camouflage colours is Mr. Hobby H307. The other colour suggested by KP is H305, which is too grey. So I mixed in several blues, green, red and white. I can't post the proportions, but it's pretty close to the Pakistani bluish grey.
18 October, 06:49
Mike Volkov
Day 8/10: The project is drawing to a close. After oil painting I prepare it for decals.
Day 8/10: The project is drawing to a close. After oil painting I prepare it for decals.
19 October, 07:07
Michael Kohl
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60 Bilder
Japanese Phantom F-4EJ KaiNeu: 19 October, 07:05 1:72
After I mounted the exhausts I considered them too shiny. So, a satin varnish coat followed. Now I like it better
Projekt: Japanese Phantom F-4EJ Kai
42 10 October, 15:41
Michael Kohl
Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.
Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.
12 October, 07:34
Petar Žorić
Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!
Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!
12 October, 11:56
Ben M
Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.
Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.
12 October, 12:55
Michael Kohl
Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.
Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.
13 October, 11:14
Michael Kohl
I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.
I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.
17 October, 19:45
bughunter
Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.
Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.
18 October, 15:29
Ben M
Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.
This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.
Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.
This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.
18 October, 20:01
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