Porsche 550 Spyder - WiP
![Album image #1 Album image #1](/albums/img/0/0/8/1730008-12266-72-720.jpg)
Okay gents and ladies, let's see what we got...
![Album image #2 Album image #2](/albums/img/0/0/6/1730006-12266-67-720.jpg)
A nicely cast body and underbody
![Album image #3 Album image #3](/albums/img/0/0/9/1730009-12266-50-720.jpg)
Being a resin kit the number of parts is not too overwhelming. But then again, the quality seems to be very nice at the first glance, I do not see any air bubbles whatsoever
![Album image #4 Album image #4](/albums/img/0/0/7/1730007-12266-62-720.jpg)
There is a nice mix of materials as well, we have rubber tires, two PE plates, some metal parts, decals, some seatbelt fabric and "glass" parts from clear resin
![Album image #5 Album image #5](/albums/img/0/1/0/1730010-12266-76-720.jpg)
First step is drilling open these holes
![Album image #6 Album image #6](/albums/img/0/1/1/1730011-12266-10-720.jpg)
The skin is very thin, first I removed some material with the knife and proceeded with a grinding bit
![Album image #7 Album image #7](/albums/img/0/1/2/1730012-12266-72-720.jpg)
![Album image #8 Album image #8](/albums/img/0/1/5/1730015-12266-83-720.jpg)
It's a part of the inner body structure
![Album image #9 Album image #9](/albums/img/0/1/3/1730013-12266-81-720.jpg)
Cleaning and fitting the exaust parts. The material is beautifully malleable, and not too brittle
![Album image #10 Album image #10](/albums/img/7/3/7/1734737-12266-66-720.jpg)
Second PE plate
![Album image #11 Album image #11](/albums/img/7/3/5/1734735-12266-34-720.jpg)
Vacuform windshields, two variants
![Album image #12 Album image #12](/albums/img/7/3/6/1734736-12266-51-720.jpg)
Everything packed in this neat little box
![Album image #13 Album image #13](/albums/img/7/3/8/1734738-12266-16-720.jpg)
Let's not forget the instruction booklet
![Album image #14 Album image #14](/albums/img/7/3/9/1734739-12266-17-720.jpg)
Which presents beautiful 3D drawings in color and leaves no room for error
![Album image #15 Album image #15](/albums/img/7/4/0/1734740-12266-81-720.jpg)
When working with PE parts I like to clean them with a fiber glass eraser. Removes the oxide layers and roughens up the surface for better paint adhesion.
![Album image #16 Album image #16](/albums/img/7/4/1/1734741-12266-79-720.jpg)
Let's work on the body. This part of the structure with the dashboard has to be glued in before painting.
![Album image #17 Album image #17](/albums/img/7/4/2/1734742-12266-43-720.jpg)
It was probably easier this way to recreate all the beautiful detail inside when making the resin mold prototypes
![Album image #18 Album image #18](/albums/img/7/4/3/1734743-12266-92-720.jpg)
Which means for the model maker this nasty gap has to disapper (except for the gap between the body and the door)
![Album image #19 Album image #19](/albums/img/6/0/1/1735601-12266-55-720.jpg)
First step adjusting the part as evenly as possible and fixing it with super glue
![Album image #20 Album image #20](/albums/img/6/0/0/1735600-12266-43-720.jpg)
Despite all adjustment efforts there is a nasty step in the surface which has to be evened out
![Album image #21 Album image #21](/albums/img/6/0/2/1735602-12266-98-720.jpg)
Much better
![Album image #22 Album image #22](/albums/img/6/0/5/1735605-12266-53-720.jpg)
I like to use makeshift sanding sticks for this purpose which I created by glueing popsicle or coffee stirring sticks with double sided tape to sanding paper and cutting them out
![Album image #23 Album image #23](/albums/img/6/0/3/1735603-12266-71-720.jpg)
Now the surface is flush, we need to fill the remaining gaps. To prevernt the seam from showing later on I carved a groove with a dremel tool
![Album image #24 Album image #24](/albums/img/6/0/4/1735604-12266-63-720.jpg)
A good quality super glue is a fantastic gap filler and putty material which is often overlooked. I does not sink in after curing and bonds unsurprisingly very strongly to the surface
![Album image #25 Album image #25](/albums/img/6/0/6/1735606-12266-80-720.jpg)
There is a beautiful seamless transition after sanding
![Album image #26 Album image #26](/albums/img/6/0/8/1735608-12266-69-720.jpg)
You can check for holes by holding the surface against the light
![Album image #27 Album image #27](/albums/img/6/0/7/1735607-12266-16-720.jpg)
Incidentally I noticed some very thin areas in the casting. It was so thin there were holes in the hood gap. I reinforced it from the inside with super glue + filler powder
![Album image #28 Album image #28](/albums/img/6/1/0/1735610-12266-69-720.jpg)
Some suspension detail
![Album image #29 Album image #29](/albums/img/6/1/1/1735611-12266-42-720.jpg)
Steel rims look also very good with some fine detail
![Album image #30 Album image #30](/albums/img/6/0/9/1735609-12266-59-720.jpg)
Etched parts are very finely done like this "Spyder" logotype
![Album image #31 Album image #31](/albums/img/1/5/1/1742151-12266-42-720.jpg)
There are recessions on the body where the hood straps are supposed to go
![Album image #32 Album image #32](/albums/img/1/5/3/1742153-12266-69-720.jpg)
USCP placed them a little far on the outside to my liking
![Album image #33 Album image #33](/albums/img/1/5/2/1742152-12266-29-720.jpg)
So I decided to get rid of them completely, the etched parts for the straps can be applied without them
![Album image #34 Album image #34](/albums/img/1/5/4/1742154-12266-50-720.jpg)
I can't emphasize enough how well super glue works as filler material, it is very quick to dry, does not sink in after sanding and the transition is very smooth
![Album image #35 Album image #35](/albums/img/1/5/5/1742155-12266-64-720.jpg)
Primer time! I use 2K 4:1 acrylic filler. Used for "real" car paintjobs. Fast to dry, solvent resistant after curing, great adhesion. Fantastic material to work with.
![Album image #36 Album image #36](/albums/img/1/5/6/1742156-12266-42-720.jpg)
The gap between the dashboard part and the body is no more. Looks like a uniform surface
![Album image #37 Album image #37](/albums/img/1/5/7/1742157-12266-95-720.jpg)
That is the setup. Primed the lower body and some accessory stuff which is bound to be body color as well
![Album image #38 Album image #38](/albums/img/1/5/9/1742159-12266-56-720.jpg)
As mentioned above, the door panel line has to be reconstructed
![Album image #39 Album image #39](/albums/img/1/5/8/1742158-12266-55-720.jpg)
Missed a little hole while preparing the body. Will be filled with a tiny drop of thick primer
![Album image #40 Album image #40](/albums/img/1/6/0/1742160-12266-98-720.jpg)
Other than that very happy with the surface!
Kommentare
24 15 May, 11:09
![](/profiles/img/28845-385-s.jpg)
Question for OP:
What brand might be selling vacuum formed clear parts? Seems like you found some as seen in photo #11. I've seen some for airplane/jet canopies, but none for cars, so I wouldn't know where to look.
3 June, 13:37
![](/profiles/img/12266-226-s.jpg)
Hey Treehugger, the parts in the picture are part of the kit. But funny that you mention this topic because I actually dealt with this question myself recently. I finished two 964s earlier this year (Revell and Fujimi) and the clear parts in both kits were of very poor quality. Searched for aftermarket replacement and found nothing. So I decided to try myself at vacuforming and made the clear parts myself which turned out to be pretty decent (after countless tries and errors) I have not posted pictures of the builds yet but intend to, keep an eye open. You are right, there is definitely a lack of aftermarket windshields for cars...
3 June, 15:17
Album info
In my modeling career with 150+ finished models I have yet to complete a resin kit. I think I have found the right contender...