[Beemax] BMW M3(E30) - WIP
Before I start, I duplicated the grill part because I thought I could use it on a very poor quality Fujimi kit.
BMW M3 Type E30 (Fujimi 12572, 1:24)
BMW M3 Type E30 (Fujimi 12572, 1:24)
I removed protruding parts on the body.
Fender was too thick, so I shaved it off thinly.
I did the same thing to the rear fender.
This kit can be manufactured in either #3 or #11.
In the case of vehicle #11, only one hole must be drilled in the marked area (refueling port?). (#3 requires two holes to be drilled)
In the case of vehicle #11, only one hole must be drilled in the marked area (refueling port?). (#3 requires two holes to be drilled)
Scraped panel-line and sanded.
Washed.
The tow hook was too thick, so I sand it thin.
The thickness is not uniform, but it doesn't really matter since only the end will be visible anyway.
The thickness is not uniform, but it doesn't really matter since only the end will be visible anyway.
The muffler was blocked, so I drilled deep.
Drilling the exact center of a cylinder cut at an angle is a bit stressful.
Drilling the exact center of a cylinder cut at an angle is a bit stressful.
When I finished trimming the parts, it was only a handful. 🙂
The antenna was too thick, so I decided to replace it with metal wire.
The neck of the original part was cut off, and the stainless steel tube was cut and trimmed.
I finished it by drilling a hole in the center of the root and inserting the cut tube and iron core.
I found out about it late, but when I looked at the manual, I saw that there was a spring, but it was annoying, so I'll just skip it.
I found out about it late, but when I looked at the manual, I saw that there was a spring, but it was annoying, so I'll just skip it.
I used the Zoom On product for masking the windshield.
Since this is a light-colored vehicle, we painted it black to block light transmission.
And I collected other parts that needed to be black and painted them as well.
And I collected other parts that needed to be black and painted them as well.
Uh-oh, why is this still here?...
There is no space to hold the wing when painting, so I have to make a handle.
In that case, after finding an appropriate length on the runner...
In that case, after finding an appropriate length on the runner...
That fixed like this.
I painted white surfacer and other colors.
Uh-oh, why is this still here? again...
I should have painted the bottom and interior white anyway, but I forgot, so I masked the bottom at this point.
The inside of the door could be painted with a brush, but I just masked it.
I didn't want to paint the roll cage one by one, so I assembled it in advance.
I didn't want to paint the roll cage one by one, so I assembled it in advance.
White surfacer.
Gloss white.
Liverty decal started.
Attached all decals.
For some reason, I have a feeling it will be a silverring.
I fixed silverring.
The areas where the decals were short and the sections where the plastic was thick were painted with a brush.
While I was brushing, I also proceeded with partial painting.
If you look at the assembly instructions, it looks like the optional parts include a kill switch, but it is not included in the basic configuration.
So I heated and stretched the runner for make two kill switch.
So I heated and stretched the runner for make two kill switch.
I cut the pla-plate into small pieces, glued them, sanded the edges to make them round, and painted them red.
Clear coated. (x4)
Sanded.
The clear was not curing well, so I let it dry for a long time.
The clear was not curing well, so I let it dry for a long time.
Polished.
Painted panel-line.
I painted with paint brush to under body.
It would have been nice to have a Kevlar fiber pattern decal on the back of the seat, but the assembly instructions only say to paint it GSI H79 (dark yellow).
It won't be noticeable once it's completed anyway. 😉
It would have been nice to have a Kevlar fiber pattern decal on the back of the seat, but the assembly instructions only say to paint it GSI H79 (dark yellow).
It won't be noticeable once it's completed anyway. 😉
I coated the emblem decal with UV resin.
Result.
There were decals that had not been attached yet, so I also attached the emblem in advance.
Ready to assemble.
Assembled bottom parts.
However, in my experience, if I install the wheels first, interference often occurs when join with the body shell, so I decided to assemble the wheels later.
However, in my experience, if I install the wheels first, interference often occurs when join with the body shell, so I decided to assemble the wheels later.
It was decided to detail-up only the shoulder straps for the seat belts.
I need a tiny hook. (I found this in an old etching I used to use)
I drilled the holes, put the hooks through, and hung the seat clips.
Assembled interior.
Another view.
Another view.
Glued the nylon mesh to the front bumper.
I had to make some cuts where indicated to get it to fit well. (the mesh was included in the kit)
I had to make some cuts where indicated to get it to fit well. (the mesh was included in the kit)
For the reflector of the winker, I cut and attached a silver foil sticker.
Front bumper done.
Assembled face.
The kidney grille and headlamp covers didn't fit well, which caused some stress when assembling.
The kidney grille and headlamp covers didn't fit well, which caused some stress when assembling.
Attached side mirror to side window.
Glued windows.
Inserted kill switch
Assembled front.
Assembled rear.
Kommentare
38 19 May, 09:40
MS KPainting the shell requires drying time, so I started working on something else in the meantime, and it happened to be a BMW again. 😉
28 May, 08:05
TreehuggerPresumably a good-enough decal softener will help against silvering, where silvering is air tapped under the decal because of the rough texture of the painted surface.
Solvaset = stronger decal softener
MicroSol = default decal softener?
After applying a decal softener, the decals MUST NOT be touched, even if it starts looking wrinkly. The wrinkles all disappear after a while.
One thing I like to do after airbrushing on primer and also paint, is to gently go over with sanding sponge, but never over edges as that will surely removed paint off the plastic, but large flat surfaces are typically safe to sand down very gently, to create a more flat surface. For this to work, it is important that the base layer, the primer paint, is sanded flat first, else the uneven primer paint will show through the paint layer, if you only sand the paint layer on top.
30 May, 06:26
schecter87I'm using Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong. Just apply the softener to the surface of the decal and after a couple of minutes, gently press it onto the surface with a cotton swab. If the decal is not welded, then it may fall off in pieces along with the varnish 🙁 .
30 May, 11:59
Sy BarLove the use of UV resin on the logo badges, an idea I'll use from now on many thanks
26 June, 07:51
Album info
FHD images.
1/2 - motorart.tistory.com/766
2/2 - motorart.tistory.com/781
