Hasegawa 09132 Macchi C.202

Spanjaard
i can not help with the riveting (never used the ones i have 😛 ) but about the panel wash, i can give you some suggestions. basically you need to use one based on a different solvent that the one of paint. so you paint acrylics, then use washes base on enamel or oils. do you paint with enamels? use washes based on acrylics. or use a wash that is not based on something that can damage the paints. after almost totally ruining a model by using white spirit to thin the oils i wanted to use, i decided to try something totally different. Flory models make a wash that is basically clay and water (quite possible something that could be possible be making at home, but that is for another day). the advantage of it, is that it does not affect the paint (acrylics, enamels, lacquers, acrylic lacquers....) and it can be removed and applied again if you do not like how it looks. in any case, my suggestion is to take an old model, and try some combinations on it to see which one works better for you, and use that in the future. you can even use a simple flat piece of plastic, practice your skills with the riveters and then use it for practice in paints and washes. at the end, the best is practice, practice and practice 🙂 take some pieces of plastic, give them a number and try the combinations, writing down what you did on it, until you find the one that work for you. good luck 🙂

Aman S.
Thank you! This is very helpful!!

Mark Sherwood
Acrylics, varnish gloss or satin , oil wash or as Spanjaard states Flory wash. Enamels/Lacquers, varnish, Flory or oil wash. But make sure your varnish is dry, as you can stain the model if it is still soft. Gloss varnish gives you a clean model with distinct panel lines etc. Satin can give you a slight staining effect as the wash will grip the rougher surface but this can aid in the weathering process. So 1. Paint 2. Varnish 3. Sludge or pin wash. Phil Flory does a tutorial on his YouTube channel.

Zuly Espartaco Becerra
Hi, friend
I scrape pastel chalks and with the powder diluted with a few drops of water and with this I do the washing both in the cabin and on the outside of the model
Once dry, it is very easy to remove the excess with a cotton swab or a Keenex.
I hope the information is useful to you. greetings

Carlos Ruiz
I don't have this riveter, but I've seen other modelers chamfer the outside edge of the yellow cover to improve the visibility while engraving.

Alberto
I like the cockpit. Great start, following!

Alberto
Just to put my two cents in, every time I paint then I protect it with a coat of gloss varnish (something similar to Pledge/Future). Then I can use any wash without worrying about the effect on the paint. Haven't had problems doing this. Regarding Tamiya panel line washes, I remove the excess around 30 mins after application with a cotton swab dampened with odorless spirit. Hope it helps!

Spanjaard
pastel chalks, sounds like the home made solution I thought possible, thanks for the info Zuly!

Aman S.
Zuly - Thank you for the advice on the pastel chaulks...I have a set of those and will try the home made solution on an old model.
Spanjaard/Mark - Thank you! I ordered some Flory dark brown and grime washes.. they are not available in the US but there is a partner retailer that sells it for the company here in America. Should have it by the time i finish the build.
Carlos - Thank you! Saw some of the same videos as well. I will use some small masking tape to make the line and give it a try on the next model.
Alberto - Thank you! I use pledge/future on my canopys before masking/painting them on the model. So have plenty to use on a test model. I do use tamiya gloss coat/varnish before i decal/weather the model, and then matt clear when i finish the model/weathering.