Building the vark
Kommentare
1 15 February 2014, 15:25
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Lol glad one of us does... Begining to wonder if i should of replaced them with Hobby Boss kits...
15 February 2014, 19:51
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hehe Yeah its a tail sitter.. I was supprised they said 20g was needed...
17 February 2014, 19:43
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Holy crap
Are the engins metal😉
That is very suprising
Tisk tisk to academy😢
17 February 2014, 20:13
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Hmmm, I think that must be coins! It is no longer possible to bring financial assets to Switzerland to save for tax.
Augie has her own solution. She is glueing all her money into the models.
Augie you are absolutely creative!
Chapeau!
🙂
17 February 2014, 22:33
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Lol thanks guys,
1 an 2 p coins are really not worth the metal in my opinion so why not...
🙂
17 February 2014, 23:40
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I agree, Augie!😉
It`s the same matter with those f.....g Cent`s.
I`m always exploding if I do recognize prices like 1,99 or 3,97 Euro......Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...
At any rate, your project has my full attention.
18 February 2014, 07:50
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Hehe yeah third time.. the greens were ok.. the tan I could not get right.
23 February 2014, 11:21
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Thanks Brandon.. It might be cause of the 3 attempts I'm still not happy with it... will leave it for a few days see if it grows on me
23 February 2014, 20:08
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Looks nice, Augie! What don't you like about the tan? Not going on well, or not the colour you want? I personally think that Gunze make the best looking SEA camo, but I wouldn't want to brush them on. Whose paints are you using?
23 February 2014, 23:30
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Cool thanks Vitor,
Hey Bill, this one killed me cause every reference for UK Based F-111E/F shows the tan as a more sandy beige.
FS 30219 translate to humbrol 118/119... both of which are more orangey tone to them
Problem i had was it went on then when it dried I was not happy with the colour tone.
I think i have it now.. but i am noy sure so going to leave it a few days so it settles and i calm down lol
23 February 2014, 23:50
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30219 is definitely the right colour. Gunze H310 is their version, and it has just a touch of orange (red) in the tan. I suspect that the real colour fades after a while and gives you more of that sand appearance.
23 February 2014, 23:53
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Yeah pics of them show it to be more beige than orange suspect usafe oddities
24 February 2014, 08:17
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Picture #87 in my Udvar-Hazy album is a freshly painted F-105. Not the best picture, but it gives you an idea of what 30219 looks like right out of the can. The colour most model paints get wrong is 34079, it has a bit of grey in it.
Udvar-Hazy Museum, Dulles Airport Virginia | Album by Navy Bird
24 February 2014, 12:26
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It,s looking good to me Augie. I just ordered one,cost a whole 10.00
25 February 2014, 16:33
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Thanks Guys 🙂
I am considering one of the hobby boss ones for a version i dont have in academy (EF-111A FB-111) so will be able to compare an maybe decide..
End of the day might not be perfect but sure looks like a vark
25 February 2014, 23:24
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Over the years the model paint companies have shifted the tam to this toned yellow; the SEA tan was a very "neutral" brown tint.
25 February 2014, 23:33
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Hi phil thats what I thought looming at pics of uk based varks. Looked almost grey tinted
26 February 2014, 08:13
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Hey Augie, here is a cool tool:
colorserver.net/show..19+34079+34102+36622
This representation is approximate, using the Munsell values for the paint standards, converting them to RGB (which has a reduced gamut and therefore can't display all colors), and puts them on your monitor for you. It's a way to get an idea of what the colors should be, and I find it useful when looking at photos on my monitor (which are not true color for many reasons). I pre-populated the link with the USAF SEA colors, but you can enter any colors you want, as long as they are part of FS595C.
26 February 2014, 14:15
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Thanks bill 🙂 don't worry screens dont catch me out I fix computers lol
26 February 2014, 14:18
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I've asked a friend to do some research on 30219. He has found its Munsell values to be 6.4 YR 4.9/3.1 - this puts the colour in the category of Yellow Red (YR). The actual pigments used in this paint are rutile titanium dioxide (white) + molybdate orange + chrome yellow medium + carbon black. In short, the paint has a slight yellow/red cast. Photos which show a light sand tone are most likely showing the effects of fading and chalking. My personal preference for this colour is Gunze, in fact for all of the SEA colours I'm a Gunze man.
26 February 2014, 20:37
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Hey Bill do you use model master paints? That's all I use for Federal Standard colors. For other colors I use the regular Testors paint
26 February 2014, 20:39
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Cheers Bill,
Not arguing just the varks always looked realitivly clean 🙂 either way the one i have on it has grown on me
26 February 2014, 20:40
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Augie, I think your paint job looks quite nice. I'm surprised that you didn't do a "what if" paint scheme, though, like maybe blues and purples. LOL 🙂 Which paint did you end up using, or did you make a mix?
Brandon, I only use Model Master occasionally.
27 February 2014, 00:34
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The hobby boss Vark's are by far the best on the market,but a little pricey. But I guess they are still cheaper than 85.00 for a set of wings if you want the flaps and slats extended. I think they look really cool with everything hanging out. I think I am going to try the Veredlin cockpit detail set on mine. I hate it when I lose parts. The carpet monster has eaten a set of wheels and a propeller, how do you lose a three bladed prop? LOL.
27 February 2014, 21:35
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lol am trying to work out how i lost the canopy... it was painted.. its not small olol
27 February 2014, 22:10
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Found the F*(&^er... need to pull part of it out of my foot.. but found it
27 February 2014, 23:42
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Ever drop an X-Acto knife and have to pull it out of your foot? Been there, done that!
28 February 2014, 02:26
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The closest I've gotten to that was when I dropped mine and it got stuck in the floor...that must if hurt Bill!
28 February 2014, 02:38
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Mine rolled off the desk once and implanted itself in my leg. Ouch!!!
28 February 2014, 14:07
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I ve added those pencil triangles to my blade handles years ago. No roll no more.
28 February 2014, 14:12
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@ Phil. Amen, me too. While I've never impaled myself, I have split open my thumb more times than I care to count when trimming against it for leverage. Then I have to stop what I'm doing to stem the flow of "precious bodily fluids", to quote one of my favorite actors, Brig Gen Jack D. Ripper.
28 February 2014, 18:48
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I've also implanted one in my thigh - and it's always because I've dropped it, not because it's rolled off the workbench. Clumsy! No more barefoot or short pants for me while I'm modelling - maybe a suit of armor!
So Augie, we need more Vark pix! 🙂
28 February 2014, 21:42
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working on it 🙂
currently rebuilding the canopy
gimme 5 mins will get some up
28 February 2014, 21:50
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So there we go.. two of the canopy repairs with my superglue forming technique.. one of ordinance production and how she looks
alsoe spot the Su-25 weapons in production
28 February 2014, 21:58
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looking good Augie. How did you cut your canapoy? I ordered vacuform canopies for mine.
28 February 2014, 23:00
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Hey Clifford,
The canopy cut was done with a sharp knife.. and scoring along the frame lines until it seperates.
28 February 2014, 23:04
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OK that was how I was going to do mine. Bought vaac-u-form spares in case I mess up. LOL.
28 February 2014, 23:06
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May be common knowledge however, when I do close trim on vac canopies, I backfill with soft modeling clay for shape and mild resistance while making the cuts. Then remove the clay and wash. You can vegatable oil the inside first very slightly to boundry the clay.
28 February 2014, 23:42
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Hey Phil,thanks for the tip 🙂 I'm afraid to cut them because they're so thin,but you solved my problem 😄
28 February 2014, 23:43
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Nay, the measure is how well the model speaks to the subject the way. you experence the subect
6 March 2014, 13:37
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Dutch...yeah when you start to think you re hearing plastic models, well that s an issue I suppose.
6 March 2014, 20:03
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Seeing your weights Augie, an alternative is to use fishing sinkers. I use the small split sinkers, a whack from the hammer flattens it for a greater gluing surface area. You get more weight into a confined space. I use super glue first to tack them in place then 5 minute Epoxy resin glue or white timber glue over the top to make certain the weight doesnt come loose, nothing worse than a rattle. Keep the joint of the fuselage clear of weight and glue to allow the two halves to join together. Dont go higher than the height of the fuselage half otherwise the lead will hit against each other and the two halves wont join together. I bought model train rail cutters to cut the lead up to suitable size. Just a thought for you, when things are tight and confined.
20 April 2014, 01:38
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I have not fastened nose wgt in decades. I merely stuff cosmetic puffs (cotton balls) into the remaining area. no risk of leaks, heat distortion, or later disloging. (Think pill bottle)
21 April 2014, 21:17
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Hey!!! Augie...
Great progress, bet it cost a few pennies (((😄 )))Lol!!!
25 April 2014, 21:24
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thanks steve, I have an update to put up soon.. its much further along now
25 April 2014, 21:48
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My EF-111A is finished. Final pictures when I get it mounted to it's display base and finish ground figures.
17 May 2014, 23:24
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I can now see and understand why there is a world economic crisis. Its because some modellers are throwing their "Pennies" into their hobbies. Literally. !!!!
31 October 2014, 22:19
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Looks nice and if you ever get out of money you have always something left 😛
31 October 2014, 22:22
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Lol thanks guys, The coppers were the only thing i had to hand to give enough weight up front of this thing...
Just noticed I never added the completed pictures to the album, will add some over the weekend.
31 October 2014, 23:12