Ki-44-II Hei,29 Sentai,2nd Chutai,Anchang
Kommentare
31 December 2015, 03:11
Bill Davis
I hope you can excuse my poor photography. I will have to do some research and find out how to get more depth of field. I have been working one this model since May 31st 2014! What is more remarkable is this is the first airplane assembly kit I have completed since the early eighties. I was in my twenty's then and I am 58 now. I learned a lot building this kit, it has some flaws but overall I am pleased.
I hope you can excuse my poor photography. I will have to do some research and find out how to get more depth of field. I have been working one this model since May 31st 2014! What is more remarkable is this is the first airplane assembly kit I have completed since the early eighties. I was in my twenty's then and I am 58 now. I learned a lot building this kit, it has some flaws but overall I am pleased.
31 December 2015, 22:19
B. M.
Hello Bill. Nice to read that you're back in business 🙂 It's looking really good and quite of an achievement, since you've had a 30ish year break...
As for photography - getting more depth of field is quite easy, provided you have a camera that you can adjust it.
What works best for me:
1. Use a tripod
2. No flash (imho)
3. Adjust "A" (F) - Aperture to max (aka F/32 or sth similar)
4. Adjust "I" - ISO to the according light you have (Sun, Overcast, Lamp etc) or automatic 😉
5. Adjust "S" - Speed according to how much light you need - Here you need to test and see. It usually is something between 0.5 - 3 seconds
6. Use delayed release, otherwise it won't be sharp
I'm not a master photographer, but it turns out pretty well.
As a help for the terms: exposureguide.com/exposure.htm
Cheers
Hello Bill. Nice to read that you're back in business 🙂 It's looking really good and quite of an achievement, since you've had a 30ish year break...
As for photography - getting more depth of field is quite easy, provided you have a camera that you can adjust it.
What works best for me:
1. Use a tripod
2. No flash (imho)
3. Adjust "A" (F) - Aperture to max (aka F/32 or sth similar)
4. Adjust "I" - ISO to the according light you have (Sun, Overcast, Lamp etc) or automatic 😉
5. Adjust "S" - Speed according to how much light you need - Here you need to test and see. It usually is something between 0.5 - 3 seconds
6. Use delayed release, otherwise it won't be sharp
I'm not a master photographer, but it turns out pretty well.
As a help for the terms: exposureguide.com/exposure.htm
Cheers
1 January 2016, 20:01
Bill Davis
Thanks Benoit, I have a Cannon Eos digital rebel and I should be able to adjust those settings. I will play around with it and see what I can come up with.
Thanks Benoit, I have a Cannon Eos digital rebel and I should be able to adjust those settings. I will play around with it and see what I can come up with.
1 January 2016, 22:25
Bill Davis
I wanted to add a radio wire from the antenna to the tail fin on my recently completed Ki-44. I had pre-drilled a .010 hole in the antenna mast before I attached it to the fuselage. I thought the EZ line worked pretty well. The only hard part was threading a limp .010 wire through a .010 hole, once through I attached a pair of tweezers to the line to put a little stretch on it and applied superglue. I had tried stretched sprue before and this works better.
I wanted to add a radio wire from the antenna to the tail fin on my recently completed Ki-44. I had pre-drilled a .010 hole in the antenna mast before I attached it to the fuselage. I thought the EZ line worked pretty well. The only hard part was threading a limp .010 wire through a .010 hole, once through I attached a pair of tweezers to the line to put a little stretch on it and applied superglue. I had tried stretched sprue before and this works better.
23 January 2016, 20:57
Thomas Bischoff
Bill - I use another method to get more depth. I take pictures with a 24mp camera using the standard lense from approx 1/2m distance and simply enlarge the picture on the computer. I use f11 for this. If you have a flash with moveable head and a white ceiling you can point the flash head to the ceiling - this is the cheap replacement for a soft box.
And: your pictures are very good already!
Bill - I use another method to get more depth. I take pictures with a 24mp camera using the standard lense from approx 1/2m distance and simply enlarge the picture on the computer. I use f11 for this. If you have a flash with moveable head and a white ceiling you can point the flash head to the ceiling - this is the cheap replacement for a soft box.
And: your pictures are very good already!
24 January 2016, 19:00
Jeremy Stuckey
I am amazed at the number of us that have returned to modeling now that we are in our 50s.
I am amazed at the number of us that have returned to modeling now that we are in our 50s.
24 January 2016, 19:16
Album info
I have been working on this for a long time and it is almost done.