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Maverick212quiere este artículo
US Navy Helicopter Copilot, Sitting 2, Visor Down, Seat NOT Included
Reedoak 1:48
480319 26 September, 22:00
RTM Maverick212quiere este artículo
US Navy Helicopter Crew, Sitting 3, Visor Down, Seat NOT Included
Reedoak 1:48
480318 26 September, 21:59
Ben MI regret to inform everyone I have been diagnosed with KAS, Kit Acquisition Syndrome. I need to spend significantly more time at the bench, it’s the only course of treatment.
3 26 September, 00:53
Martin OostromI think it's contagious. You have infected me through this website
🫣
26 September, 05:23
SpanjaardI promised myself not to go beyond 100. it was an easy promise to make. keeping it is a different story
26 September, 21:50
Spanjaard109.....if I only count full kits (no aftermarket), and if I exclude the 1/144 kits.... so KAS it is....
26 September, 21:53
Ben MI have another in the mail so 102. If only life let me have more time building!
26 September, 21:55
Adriantiene este artículo
Set of 12 pcs 150 mm barrels for German ships : Bismarck, Tirpitz, Scharnhorst, Gneisenau
Aber 1:350
350L12 2008 Nuevos moldes Multitema (3)26 September, 21:53
Ricardo ReisNuevo álbum de fotos añadido
41 imágenes
E-2C Hawkeye (WIP)
1:48
Applying Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color (Dark Gray)
Proyecto: Grumman E-2C Hawkeye
54 23 October 2023, 19:02
James CLooking fantastic 👍
Oversized decals in 1/48 appears to be a common problem with Italeri aircraft kits in 1/48. Despite the printing quality (Cartograph) it appears that Italeri are incapable of accurately measuring them for fit before sending off to Cartograph for printing. I have encountered similar decal fit issues with their 1/48 F-14A, Mirage III, Mig 21, S-3 Viking etc. Given that most (if not all) of their kits released these days are reboxings of older tooled kits; having to replace the decals as well is just a no go for me and so I now avoid the brand completely.
19 July, 18:45
bughunterAs you may know I love wooden propellers by I must admit that your propellers looks fantastic 👍
19 July, 19:34
Ricardo Reis@James, I was not aware of this issue; I only started noticing when I started to apply the first decals and looking at the reference photos - there are 2 or 3 photos of this specific aircraft; now it's to late to go back, but I am alert for the future; @bughunter, I love this typo or propeller, like the ones we can see in the A400M, they are very beautiful and elegant and powerful at the same time!
20 July, 12:02
Ben MI agree with the propeller lust. This kit is just the way I like it, nothing fits.
11 September, 01:09
DuperScaleNuevo álbum de fotos añadido
36 11 July, 21:06
Chris ParsonsOh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment
11 July, 23:27
Thomas KolbOMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!
12 July, 02:31
DuperScaleWelcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.
12 July, 06:24
NicolasFollowing. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.
16 July, 14:48
Chris ParsonsHi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….
16 July, 23:24
TreehuggerDuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.
20 August, 05:21
TreehuggerAs for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.
If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.
Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.
20 August, 05:25
TreehuggerAnother thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.
What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.
20 August, 05:35
TreehuggerIn this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.
Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)
20 August, 07:35
Łukasz GlińskiThe UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)
20 August, 07:59
DuperScaleHi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.
The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.
20 August, 16:10
Mr DLike the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.
17 September, 20:48
Oliver PeisslNuevo álbum de fotos añadido
29 26 September, 06:44
Steve SolomonThis is a great job, brother Oli. Your Jug actually looks so HEAVY! How?
26 September, 08:38
Calvin Giffordartículo marcado como pedido
Three Stage Manned Rocket for Controlled Orbital Flight
Willy Ley Orbital RocketAtlantis 1:192
M46 2024 Nueva caja 26 September, 21:44
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