Stage fright

Step 2. This step was also not required

Step 3. First step that I had to do to start construction and was easily accomplished

Step 4. Joining the two sides with the internal bottom. To achieve this result is a lot more difficult than what is shown

Supporting the broken side

More support because of the break

To be able to maintain a constant width of 104mm I have had to glue cross bracing in because the wood wanted to stay straight

Step 8. Adding the Walnut veneer to the long panel

Step 8. Started

Step 9. Removing the excess from the long panel

Step 10. Adding the Walnut veneer to the Coach sides

Step 10. Still in progress

Step 10. Complete

Step 11. Removing the excess Walnut veneer

Step 11. Started

Step 11. Completed

Step 12. Construction of the false bottom

Soaking plywood in preparation for bending in step 12

Step 12. Has proven to be extremely difficult with the plywood resisting being bent even after soaking. It took days of clamping and still broke the bond of the wood glue so I had to use Superglue then reinfoce with Araldite. The cross bracing was to prevent the unwanted bending between the supports where the plywood was supposed to be bent over

Just when I thought step 12 was finished I noticed that the surface to be glued to the bottom of the Coach body was flat when it needed to have the same curve of the body. I used a piece of glasspaper on the bottom of the body and sanded the side of the false bottom until it better resembled the picture in the instructions

Step 13. Adding the Walnut veneer to the false bottom

Step 13. Started, thankfully the part is veneered with Walnut because it will hide the fact that a lot of the top layer and in some places the middle and bottom layers of the plywood had to be sanded away to try and get the part in the shape required

Step 14. Adding a Walnut frame around the false bottom

Step 13. Completed and step 14 started

Step 14. Completed. The instructions don't really provide much information as to how things should be done.
After looking at the pictures on the kit box I deduced that the shorter pieces of Walnut should be bent to follow the bend of the Coach body. This was extremely difficult. The Walnut doesn't want to bend at all. Using clamps and boiling water I was able to get a slight bend. With much trepidation I clamped and glued and after some time I released the clamps and the glue held, thankfully

Step 15. Dressing apertures

Using cut down ice cream sticks as clamps

Step 16. Adding the Ramin trim

Step 16. Proved to be very difficult. The Ramin strip had to be curved in two directions. Which created a complex clamping situation that took a few days of pondering to sort out

Step 17. More Ramin trim

Made a mistake with the positioning of the two strips either side of the centre one and had to remove them and cut a new pair then put them in the correct positions. For some reason I looked at the picture in the instructions and then glued all pieces with equal spacing. Once the glue was dry and I was looking at the next step I noticed my mistake

Step 18. I forgot to take a picture of the build at this stage

Step 19. Once again I forgot to take a picture of the build at this stage

Step 20. Forgot to take a picture of the build at this stage too

Step 21.

I added a piece over the hole at the front of the piece constructed in step 20 because I didn't like the way it looked

Step 22. Many Ramin trim pieces to add

This is a massive step. The provided schematic is incorrect in that the curved Ramin pieces are shown as being 1mm thick when the strips provided are 2mm. So I had to guess exactly where they were meant to be positioned

Also in the parts list pieces 29 and 30 are listed as pre fabricated but in my kit weren't. I first cut out the two pieces I would require in step 23 for the doors. Then I used the leftover frame of the die cut plywood as a template to produce parts 29 and 30. The instructions didn't show the application of the 1mm square Walnut pieces on part 30 but the schematic does and so does the pictures of the finished model on the box, so I added them

Step 23. Construction of the doors. I forgot to take a picture at this stage

Step 24. Forgot to take a picture of this step too

Step 25. Is dressing the apertures in the doors and adding the hinges. Much work is required with the application of the hinges. The nails for the top hinge need to be shortened but I shortened all so they wouldn't cause any issues with the bottom hinge. Due to the nail holes being opposite each other I also bent the hinges slightly and filed the heads of the nails flat to prevent them from allowing the door to operate fully

As per the instructions I glued the door handles on at this point but I think it would be better to drill the holes and glue the handle on after the doors are attached to the Coach body

Step 26. Sees the doors added to the Coach body

Once again the nails had to be shortened.
This time it was due to the guide holes needing to be drilled at an angle due to the small door aperture. I also filed the heads flat and one side of the nail head off because of the bend applied to the hinges

Step 26. Completed

Step 27. Covering the seats. The material provided wasn't big enough to do the job as in the instructions, so I had to do some dodgy stuff

Due to the fabric not being big enough I had to be very frugal with the seat backs

At least this side looks okay

Before I attempted to cover the seats I first cut out the luggage cover and four window blinds. The driver's seat and then I had what was left for the interior seats. The seat bottoms had to be covered with the scraps and thus both have two pieces of fabric.

Hopefully once inside the Coach body this two piece arrangement won't be very noticeable

I veneered the underside of the seat bottoms to make them look better

Step 28. Seat bottoms installation

Step 29. Installation of the seat backs

Step 30. Adding the Walnut edging

Step 31. Adding the Duck-boards. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture at this stage. I put more Duck-boards on the roof panel than the instructions suggest. The instructions show them with uneven gaps. After glueing the centre Duck-board I used the edge of my Steel rule to set the gap between each board

Step 32. Luggage rack uprights. I decided to not follow the instructions here and didn't glue the roof panel to the body at this stage to make construction of the luggage rack easier

Step 33. This step is best not done as shown. I started doing it this way but because the plan isn't the correct size all my work had to be undone. The most notable inaccuracy shown in this picture is part 55 being attached to part 54 when it has to be attached to the front upright

Step 34. Assembly of the horizontal sections of the luggage rack

Boy am I glad to have this step finished. I broke my flat jawed pliers squashing the brass rod so I could drill holes in it. I spent about two months trying to work out how I was going to squash 2mm brass rod. It took about three weeks to accomplish this step. Unfortunately the brass does show the affects of having been bent and straightened because I attempted doing it as suggested in step 33

Step 35

I didn't glue the roof onto the body until I'd completed the luggage rack and don't glue both seat handrails in place at this stage or you won't be able to get the seat in place

Step 36

These are 2mm brass rod that I've used permanent marker to make Black because the weather here isn't suitable for painting and I wasn't confident that I could get consistent cover

So the permanent marker wasn't up to task. Started wearing off in patches and most annoyingly onto the wood of the model. So I have had to remove it and I'll have to try painting the foot board supports

I'm hoping this Tamiya TS-14 will do the job. I couldn't even buy it here in Ballarat. I'm able to get these rattle cans in Hamilton at Toyworld but Ballarat Toyworld don't stock them. So I purchased it from BNA Model World in Melbourne Friday and it arrived this morning on Monday. So that's pretty good

So I painted the foot board supports with the Tamiya TS-14 and I was really happy with the result but the paint also won't stick to the Brass. Not having worked with Brass before I eventually did a Google search for advice on getting paint to stick to Brass and I'm off to the hardware store today to get some Etch Primer and just like Bullwinkle said to Rocky "watch me pull a Rabbit out of my Hat". Hopefully unlike Rocky's reply "again? But that trick never works" I'll be able to correctly quote Bullwinkle "this time for sure"

Foot board supports are fully Etch Primed now. Could only paint half of them at a time and decided to wait 24 hours between each application due to the very low temperature here in Victoria ATM

Finally, I think I've finished the foot board supports

Step 37

So I added a couple of Brass pieces to secure the foot board supports to the bottom of the foot board because from what the instructions show you just glue them to the bottom of the foot board which as far as I'm concerned didn't look realistic and probably wouldn't have provided a secure enough attachment

Step 38

I made a big mistake here. I started bending at the wrong end which consequently put one of the nail holes in the wrong position.
With it ending up right on the corner of the foot boards

Step 39. Construction of the rear luggage tailboard

Step 40. Addition of the backing cross-bars against the vertical supports and rear luggage tailboard

It's not stated in the written instructions or very noticeable in the photo provided but the large schematic sheet shows that nails should be in the tops of the vertical supports and at the junctions of the backing cross-bars to the vertical supports. The shafts of the nails will of course once again have to be shortened to facilitate this

Step 1. This step is obsolete for this kit because this part is one piece

Comentarios

9 29 June 2020, 01:11

wilky
So the instructions show the sides just sat upside down on a flat surface to glue the floor in.
Gravity wasn't going to let it happen that way.
I decided to clamp the roof panel to the sides.
Lay the Coach body on it's side and place a small amount of glue at the apex of the curve and then patiently wait for it to dry.
The next day it applied glue to the sides of the floor panel, sit the Coach body upright and clamped both ends carefully at the same time.
I had to go to the hardware store to buy the big clamps and these 450mm ones were four dollars cheaper each than the 300mm ones that would have done the job

29 June 2020, 01:21

Tom ...
I'm curious, wilky. In Bughunters thread you said this kit is not laser cut. Is it die cut then? How do the edges look?

29 June 2020, 16:32

wilky
Yes, I believe it's die cut.
Okay on one side but you have to tidy up the other side with a bit of sanding

29 June 2020, 16:46

gorby
Nice to see something a bit different Wilky. I've never seen this kit before, it looks like it might be a bit of a challenging build.

30 June 2020, 16:24

wilky
So had a major disaster.
When trying to attach the long piece of plywood in step four the weight I was using to clamp the bottom in place shifted and broke everything.
One side snapped in four places breaking it in half and the other side snapped in two places.
I've had to glue supports to keep them straight.
Glue stays at the top so the correct gaps will be maintained and inbetween the sides in order to maintain the 104mm gap required for the ends of the Coach body.
Once the long piece of plywood is glued onto the body I'll remove the stays.
The glue marks from the ones inside the Coach should be hidden by the seats.
I've carefully glued some sawdust into the cracks on the inside of the Coach sides to reduce their visibility.
The outside will get a veneer of Walnut strips so they will be successfully hidden

6 July 2020, 00:07

wilky
So step four is finally finished and step five has begun

9 July 2020, 01:50

Ben M
Holy cow

9 July 2020, 02:30

wilky
Hi Ben, thanks for joining the adventure

9 July 2020, 03:40

Tom Beighley
Reminds me of the Great Planes Piper Cub kit with all the die cut plywood. Very cool!

3 August 2020, 23:32

wilky
Hi Tom, definitely more difficult than making a wooden aeroplane kit.
Well with my limited experience of stick and tissue.
Lots of curves that require pre soaking and bending.
I'm also having issues with the plywood warping after application of the Walnut veneer

4 August 2020, 00:15

bughunter
Oh, it smell like wood glue - your project started 🙂 I will watch for sure!
A friend has this kit in his huge stash and offered it to me after the finished Amati kit. I refused since we have no space for two 1:10 stage coaches.

4 August 2020, 08:39

wilky
Yes bughunter, I'm smelling wood glue a lot ATM.
It's bigger than I thought it would be when I bought it, so I can understand that.
If I could afford it I'd buy the Amati one for the luggage and the two Winchester rifles.
Unfortunately this kit doesn't have any luggage.
I actually owned eight Winchester lever action rifles when I had a firearms licence

4 August 2020, 09:22

bughunter
Hmm, the kit is no more listed on the Amati page. As ar as I remember there was beside the complete kit also the plan set alone and the PE set alone available. I showed the kit content here: modellboard.net/index.php?topic=39229.0
May be you can ask Amati for the PE fret 671 (contain Winchester and luggage parts)? The mini lasered wood sheet for the Winchester was 2544. See link above for pictures of both. The luggage was mainly done form simple MDF parts and wood strips, here the kit is not really needed.

4 August 2020, 09:47

wilky
So step 12 was unbelievably difficult.
I tried soaking the plywood first to bend it but that didn't work.
Due to the outside grains running opposite to the way the plywood was to be bent the piece just wouldn't stay bent.
As soon as the clamps were released the bonds of the wood glue would break.
I ended up using Superglue and then Araldite as well to make sure it held.
This took many days.
Then because the plywood bent the wrong way I tried glueing cross bracing to prevent this.
The cross bracing wasn't up to the job so I had to sand the plywood until I could get the desired result.
Thankfully the Walnut veneer has covered the mess and no one but us will ever know just how awful this piece is

18 September 2020, 02:57

Tom ...
Well done! You are right, no one will notice. Really nice job!

18 September 2020, 03:33

wilky
Thanks Tom, if I can get it half as good as your boat I'll be happy

18 September 2020, 03:57

gorby
Excellent work so far mate. I've been working with wood for about four decades and I bet I'd have struggled with that. Well done for sticking with it.

18 September 2020, 09:14

wilky
Thanks, gorby. Step 12 slowed things down dramatically but I'm back on the wagon or should I say coach

18 September 2020, 12:45

gorby
Well impressed with your progress so far mate - it looks amazing!
When do you start building the horses? 😉

16 April 2021, 06:20

wilky
Thanks gorby, horses would probably be easier than what I'm doing ATM.
I've never worked with brass rod before. Currently trying to flatten 2mm brass rod enough to drill a 2.1mm hole in it.
Apparently brass is work hardened, this would appear to be true because I broke my flat pliers while trying to hammer the brass rod ends flat

16 April 2021, 06:56

wilky
If anyone wants to see a more detailed run down of the construction check out my videos on Tinman's scale models YouTube channel
Youtube Video

16 April 2021, 07:59

gorby
Well done for sticking with it mate and making such a good job as well. The brass work looks excellent!

9 June 2021, 15:11

Ben M
I came across one of these in a vintage store yesterday- did you ever finish it up?

6 May, 03:26

wilky
It's in the cupboard.
I struck a problem with working with the Brass.
I have to learn how to anneal? it.
I've bought some hobby blow torches and I I need to buy some spare Brass to practice on.
I'm dragging my feet but also I live a long way from a hobby shop and the closest ones (hundreds of kilometres away) have all closed

6 May, 11:15

Ben M
Reading your build log, I may have done the right thing by not buying it.

6 May, 21:16

wilky
It's been a challenge, that's for sure

6 May, 21:57

Album info

So I've set myself the challenge of building this Artesania Latina 1/10 The Concord Stage Coach 1848 before June next year.

Stage fright

97 imágenes

1:10

En espera

1:10 The Concord Stage Coach 1848 (Artesania Latina 16004)

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