Uutisvirta
Amodel 1:72
TreehuggerQ: Is there any convenient way of scratchbuilding railings along the side of the ship, for 1:350 ships?
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
24 August, 09:09
Martin OostromWow. The vertical rods are about 3-5cm diameter in real life. That equates to 1-1,5mm in scale. The ropes are 1cm in real life? So you'd need 0.03 wire? The maths is from the top of my head, so I could be wrong of course.
I wish you the best of luck in pulling that off. And I call shotgun on the build!
24 August, 09:19
TreehuggerI have some 0.1 mm metal wire. 🙂
Hmmm, maybe I could try combine that with some styrene rods, but square ones.
Hmm, 0,2 mm styrene rod might work.
Not having a precision drill mounted vertically with a wheel/lever will not be fun though.
Admittedly trying to straighten out a metal wire that's been on a roll, will be a pain, or at least have to be pulled out tight adding press/tension in the parts.
24 August, 13:49
TreehuggerOh, this was easy. Though, styrene rods are flimsy if accidentally knocking your hand into them, if finishing a model with styrene rods as railings.
The 0.2 mm drill bit is VERY weak, the 0.3 mm drill bit is much sturdier(!) There are no 0.1 mm drill bit in this UStar (UA-260 drill bit set 0.2 to 1.5 mm).
Hm.. I think a better idea, is to just use thin thread, maybe easier to handle and it will relax more nicely instead of potentially causing a stiff bend along the side of the ship if the vertical rods are a little unsymmetrical along the hull, if using the stiff brass wire even if just 0.1 mm thick.
[img1]
The wonky brass wire is the very start of the brass wire on the roller, presumably the rest of the wire is all smooth.
25 August, 12:01
Rod -lisäsi uuden projektin.
25 August, 15:40
Rod -Anyone know if it is possible to get custom made metal foil transfers? The decal sheet doesn't have the trans am or pontiac badges, they are molded in the body. It will be really tricky to paint and polish the body without ruining them. Easier to remove and replace if possible.
25 August, 15:43
Ben Mlisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
20 29 May, 22:29
Ludvík KružíkThis really is a trip into history. I wish you well with your work on the model. And I'll be happy to follow the progress.
The drop tanks used on the Mig you are building are the original (older) version. They were attached directly to the wing (no hinge) and did not have stabilizing ailerons on the end. This type of tanks had one unpleasant feature. When dropping the empty tank, the tank rolled on the wing. This was annoying because it could damage the control surfaces. Therefore, these tanks were replaced by a new type with stabilizing surfaces at the end of the tank and these tanks were suspended on a wing hanger (tanks of this type are in the kit). This solution eliminated the rolling problem.
27 July, 09:16
Ben MLudvik, thank you for the details. I did not know that. I imagine they usually did not drop the tanks on trainers.
I also masked the canopy last night. The molding of the frames are a bit vague and lots of curves so it will require some cleanup after painting.
27 July, 12:12
Ludvík KružíkBen, you're right that trainer planes didn't usually drop tanks. In peacetime, in normal use, even combat aircraft don't drop tanks (except in emergency situations or exercises).
The purpose of my comment was merely to explain why the tanks on Indonesian aircraft differ from those in the kit.
I look forward to following your progress and wish you a lot of fun building the model and the result to your liking.
27 July, 13:02
Ben MWell the other night I got frustrated with the Vallejo gloss black primer clogging my airbrush, so I added some Mr leveling thinner and gave it the worst orange peel ever as this is totally incompatible with the paint. I thought I could selectively strip the paint with windex but while that kind of stripped the paint it also dissolved a lot of the perfect plastic putty and also dissolved the canopy pva glue and masking. Also I broke off a wing and a horizontal stabilizer. So a bit of a setback.
I have constant problems getting the Vallejo gloss black primer to not clog my 0.4mm nozzle.
18 August, 01:28
Duster_dIt's sad, Ben. These Vallejo primers can only be diluted with distilled water because they are based on acrylic urethane (this is my IMHO). Even Vallejo's Thinner and Flow Improver for acrylic paints does not go well with these primers. The same applies to their polyurethane varnishes.
18 August, 06:35
Martin OostromNot saying this will solve your issue, but they have a video with ratios out: Youtube Video
18 August, 06:50
Sy BarWow that video seam to show it's a lot of hard work to get their primer coat working 👀
I'd go with mr surfacer 1500 approx 50:50 with mr levelling thinner, then if you need a gloss use mr Color gx110 again 50:50 with levelling thinner, sounds just as complex but I've never had this block airbrush and you can get rid of surface issue before you gloss saving the thicker gloss primer obscuring details..
Good luck on you build
18 August, 07:54
Łukasz GlińskiVery sad nwes mate - hope to see you back on this project with the new kit, this one looks fubar unfortunately.
18 August, 09:01
Ben MPainted some detail parts. Unlike the Vallejo primer, the metallics shoot like a dream. Started reassembly. I will have to re-putty and this kit needs a lot of putty. The canopy is a goopy fogged mess, I'm going to soak it in degreaser to hopefully strip off the future and start over on it.
18 August, 14:36
Ludvík KružíkThe accident on your project is really unpleasant. I wish you a steady hand and a lot of patience in dealing with the aftermath.
22 August, 12:27
M0rceWow, that looks like a tough kit...
Coming along nicely now though it seems.. 👍
Looking forward to updates.
23 August, 22:18
DIEGO BRITOSomistaa tämän kohteen
Martin B-26 A-B, P-61 A-B Wheel Set & P-61 Mud Guard
True Details 1:72
72026 25 August, 15:39
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