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8 kuvien
The Secret of the Unicorn (The Unicorn)
1:72
projekti: The Secret of the Unicorn (The Unicorn)
17 8 April, 21:35

This should be an adventure... I'm entering a 120 step program... 🙂
8 April, 21:40

Ok... so a bit of an explanation seems in order for this project. As most of you know, I have a large and ever growing Tintin project - trains, planes, automobiles, boats... and ships... that were featured in the various Tintin albums. Amongst the long list there are the "Big Three" - The Lunar Rocket, Marlinspike Hall/Chateau Moulinsart, and the Unicorn. For the first two, I've been doing some preparation work to be able to tackle them with 3D model building and printing. But the Unicorn... well, that's a different beast altogether. A sailing ship as complex as the Unicorn is not something easily 3D printed. That's were this set comes in. In 2011-2012 Hachette released a Unicorn "kit" - basically on a "one part per week" schedule. You buy the booklet and the part... and little by little the Unicorn comes to life. I've known about this set for a while, but didn't really have a hope of ever getting my hands on it. I missed the weekly release, which, while still expensive (about $10 a shot... for a 120 shots...) would have maybe been manageable over the long haul. However, trying to get your hands on all the parts at this point is not easy... and generally costs a mint. So, I'd more or less resigned myself to not getting this.
9 April, 04:20

However, as luck would have it, I seem to be getting a bit of a reputation as a builder of Tintin models on a few spots on the internet and after making a few connections ran across a guy who HAD gone to the book store 120 times... and then got in over his head. So for over 10 years this partially started project has sat in his basement... until this past week. There was a bit of negotiation, but the price was quite reasonable (all things considered) and, after finding a few unloved boxes of comic books and sports cards in MY basement, I was able to a 3-way trade and close the deal. 😄
9 April, 04:26

Yesterday the box showed up on my front doorstep... in less than stellar condition. I'm really glad this box was only being shipped across the country and not overseas, because I'm sure I would lost half the parts somewhere over the Atlantic. 🙂 I get the impression that the seller doesn't do a lot of online sales... because he basically threw whatever was on the table in his basement into a flimsy box, threw a scrap of bubble wrap on top and put a piece of tape over the top. However, after a close inspection I was very glad to find that everything arrived more or less intact. I thought I was going to have to craft a few bits to replace the broken off tips on a few of the pieces, but luckily I actually found them on my front step this afternoon. Anyway, it's been cleaned up, all the bags have been inventoried, the broken bits glued back on... and it's ready to go. The first 9 steps have been completed so I'm starting from step 10... only 110 more to go! Stay tuned! This one's going to take a while...
9 April, 04:32

Interesting story. Glad you were able to get it, Greg 👍
110 updates ahead seem to promise hours of fun and days of watching it here 🙂
I can't miss this!
9 April, 19:33

Thanks Cuajete. One of the problems with inheriting a partially started model like this is that sometimes you need to undo someone else's mistakes. This is a rather precise "kit" and I've already had to partially disassemble it to a) clear out a glob of wood glue that was pushing up one of the ribs and would make the deck warp, and b) sand down the cut edges so that the little burs don't keep the parts from sitting flush. Luckily the previous owner didn't do such a great job to glue the pieces in place, so it's coming apart relatively easily. Maybe I should tear the whole thing down and start over…
1 11 April, 06:24

Thanks guys. LucLuke - I've inspected the rest of the pieces closely and there are 3 that I think were originally mis-aligned. So, I think after a bit or regluing I should be good going forward now. I'm a little warry of the MDF wood - it's a lot less forgiving than plastic. I don't want to break and of the pieces by trying to take them apart because they're unlikely to simply break cleanly like polystyrene. The MDF will tear and become full of fibre. That will make it almost impossible to get it back in position.
11 April, 15:59

It'll be an epic... one way or the other. 😉
I just hope Lode doesn't show up until it actually looks like a ship... and not just leftovers from a home building project. 🙂
11 April, 19:04

Thanks guys. This one promises to be a long and plodding project. It'll be a new experience for me though, that's for sure.
11 April, 21:05

Great story and nice that you don't have to wait another week or more to get next set parts 👍 The rather large gunship looks really small compared to this new ship.
Watching no matter how long it takes!
11 April, 21:46

Thanks Frank. The pirate ship does look small, but I'm happy to note that I think I got the scaling bang on. My original thought for this project was the Heller 1/100 Soleil Royal (with heavy modifications) and the pirate ship is a 1/110 scale Bounty. Both of which were (at least to my eyeballs) pretty close to perfect for the scale given that this one is "scientifically calculated" to be 1/72 scale.
Anyway, I'm still in the re-do mode. I can tell that the previous owner was a bit less than careful in putting some of the pieces together. I've had to break down a few more parts, do a bit of sanding and then re-glueing them back in the proper place. The trim along the hull for the canons was particularly sloppy and I think that would have caused me a lot of grief once I try to get the hull put together because they would've caused gaps in the planking.
12 April, 17:38

Hahaha! I wouldn't survive. 🙂
Anyway, my last bit of re-do work, re-aligning the gun ports, is now done. I've now opened my first bag of parts (10) and have officially started moving forward rather than backward. I've glued one row of planks on the deck. 🙂
14 April, 04:28

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102 kuvien
Japanese Phantom F-4EJ Kai
1:72
But everything still looks too nice'n'clean. So some tonal variations and some weathering of the base will be next.
projekti: Japanese Phantom F-4EJ Kai
96 10 October 2024, 15:41

Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.
12 October 2024, 07:34

Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!
12 October 2024, 11:56

Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.
12 October 2024, 12:55

Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.
13 October 2024, 11:14

I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.
17 October 2024, 19:45

Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.
18 October 2024, 15:29

Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.
This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.
18 October 2024, 20:01

Welcome mates, thanks for the nice feedback.
.
@Frank: no way I build something like this in a week. This has been on and off my workbench for a couple of months. Now with the final touches ongoing I summed up the process.
@Ben: being such a characteristic area of the Phantom I strifed to represent that striped portion of the tail as realistic as I was able too. I am happy with the result and of course happy too if others deem it well done too.
21 October 2024, 09:00

Note to self: cut the thin stripes first and paint them separately. When painting first and cut second the paint crackles, when only the carrier film is cut and the decals are painted then the decals are difficult to separate from the backing and from one another. Often the paint tears then - leaving uneven edges.
21 October 2024, 09:48

Beautiful build! The gray panel lining does a great job of accentuating the details - as well as the numerous warning your have given us along the way. 😀
21 October 2024, 10:13

Thanks CaptGPF, hope I didn't sound like a Cassandra though. 😉
21 October 2024, 13:51

Sooo. All the touch ups done, the small wheel well doors glued into place a third time and the Sparrows (?) attached with blue tack only as I consider to display the bird as seen on display in Mikasa any time in the future. And if so, it will be depicted without the rockets. And of course some final shots are mandatory.
21 October 2024, 13:56

What a lovely build. I agree with CaptGPF on the panel lines. Im impressed with the rear end also, looks like metal
15 November 2024, 13:16

Thanks Mr. James. I have to admit that I like the rear of this bird a lot too. I hope I recall some of the techniques applied there for my next jet build.
17 November 2024, 15:16

I like the worn paint finish 👍 It looks 110% like the tornado in the "Deutsches Museum" in Oberschleissheim!
17 November 2024, 15:20

Danke Frank,
Funny thing is: what I actually wanted to achieve was this:
Scale Model World in Telford 2024 Part 1 Air | Album by panorama
That's the great Phantom build by Kev Baxter which has EXACTLY the appearance as the gate guard at the airbase of Misawa.
But although I aimed at something else, in the end I am quite happy with what I finally hit. 🙂
17 November 2024, 15:51

👍
BTW, you can add a #204 to the end of the link of an album, then it opens with the indicated picture.
17 November 2024, 16:15

Done. Thanks for the hint. Again what learned - as we say in Tschörmänie.
17 November 2024, 17:43

Really nice job. I personally found that Aqueous surfacer 1000 works super. It works like Mr finisher but without the lacquer smells since it is water based. Really it's the best kept secret.
18 November 2024, 19:00

Top notch. On some photos the model looks like the real thing. - Interesting: I don´t use primer for the same reason as you mentioned. For a realistic appearance of the model it seems to be important to keep the layers of paint as thin as possible.
20 November 2024, 11:12

How could I miss this one ... Amazing result. Turned out really nicely 👌
21 November 2024, 07:25

The Moson Model Show is drawing nearer and serves as a catalyst to complete projects.
Kevin Baxter - a fellow mideller from England - showed the same Phantom in Telford
Scale Model World in Telford 2024 Part 1 Air | Album by panorama
and had not just already completed what I had only envisioned so far, but was also so kind to provide me with more photographic reference of the machine in its museum setting.
Thanks Kevin for that.
So, let's finish this one for good.
17 March, 15:09

Hi Michael, I've also been building the USS Midway F-4J release of this tooling and have been enjoying your take on Fine Molds' offering. It's a great kit.
14 April, 04:11

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9 kuvien
Lockheed PV-1 Ventura (FROG\NOVO\ARK)
1:72
projekti: Lockheed PV-1 Ventura (FROG\NOVO\ARK)
18 9 February, 18:17

Вот стройка,может что пригодится-
karopka.ru/forum/forum435/topic29377/
1 9 February, 18:55

Denis Dogadov, да, походу изкоробку буду делать. Спасибо за ссылку, как раз искал инфу по "Вентурам". А еще можете подсказать: подойдет ли в качестве ANA 607\606 Sea Blue краска от Ганзы H54 Navy Blue?
9 February, 19:21

Здесь на сайте покопайтесь, сначала инструкции на Вентуры посмотрите в 72-48-32 ,чем там производитель рекомендует красить.
Если не поможет, то и другие самолёты США с того ТВД, окраска стандартная была.
Я недавно Каталину красил эмалями Ганза, 367, 338.
1 9 February, 19:47

I haven't had time for modeling lately: too much work, plus I'm sick.
15 March, 12:56

@Denis, белый H316, Intermediate Blue H56 и верх Navy Blue H54 (все Aqueous HobbyColor). Как в инструкции от "академиевской" "Вентуры".
11 April, 02:35

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25 kuvien
IJN Kagero
1:350
Got the linoleum color on. Now need to mask and start spraying Maizuru IJN Gray. Also need to figure out how to mask ...
projekti: IJN Destroyer Kagero
10 19 March, 00:05

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80 kuvien
DeHavilland DH.88 Comet 'Grosvenor House'
1:72
projekti: DeHavilland DH.88 Comet Crosvenor House
76 4 December 2024, 11:33

Those familiar with the kit might have noticed the absence of the firewall. I simply lost it and decided that I will just omit it as it is invisible anyway.
5 December 2024, 17:42

A very interesting plane! You made a good progress with another (parallel?) project 👍
5 December 2024, 18:39

Interesting build and very promising start - I´m in for this 🙂
9 December 2024, 09:13

Interesting approach to simply sand the control surface structure in the primer. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a good result.
18 December 2024, 13:53

As a base for the red color, you need to use yellow, then the red will be bright.If you put red on white, you will get just pink.
18 December 2024, 14:08

Michael, using different primers for one top coat is my idea! The usage of my idea is geBIERenpflichtig! 🙂
18 December 2024, 15:38

Looks like you're the partial member of The Infanous Order of The Pink Primer 😋
18 December 2024, 18:19

@ Nicolas: I cross my fingers too. But looks like I have to do some homework before the final coat (see below 🙂 )
@ Denis: thanks for your input. I tested your suggestion on a scrab wing. With LP-7 I get a nice hue as well over white primer and pink base alike. Problem is that there is almost no difference between them. Over yellow (XF-3) the red receives a rather orange hue which I do not like for this project. But I am optimistic to finetune that and use lighter yellow or buff as base coat and see how that turns out. I'll keep you posted.
@Frank: So, se wollen erheben ne kleene GeBIER?!
Da trifft es sich ja gut, dass mein diesjähriger Adventskalender aus 24 Flaschen feinem fränkischen Bier aus 24 verschiedenen Brauereien besteht. Es wird mir eine Freude sein, ein-zwei-drei mit Dir zu teilen - in N?! In M?! Gruß 🙂
@Lukasz: I applied, but as PartPrimerer I am only allowed into the Entree so far. Full membetship pending. 🙂
Welcome Guy
19 December 2024, 09:52

Yes, I will be interested in what your red color will turn out to be. I recently painted small parts red, but there was a noticeable difference in color, depending on the color of the soil. Perhaps your LP-7 is better.
19 December 2024, 10:09

I tested a couple of base coat variations for LP-7. A nice combination in my eyes is achieved when using Mr. Hobbycolor H413 yellow as base for the darker areas and pink (Tamiya X-17) for the lighter ones. But that would have meant to redo the whole base paint. So I stuck to my combination and mourned the loss of contrast.
21 December 2024, 23:27

Add some white today and it will be perfect Xmas gift just in time 😋
1 24 December 2024, 09:43

Really great job. I appreciate your approach.
I didn`t test different base color. I used GS Aquarius H23 at first piece at black surfacer, and it wasn`t fine. I will use gloss yellow at 2nd piece.
How did you do such perfect wing bottom side. It looks really nice. I had relatively big gap there and some residual step although I precisely brushed big material layer out from both wing half. Maybe, the used glue did a step at the end.
I thing, that this, wings bottom, is weakest part of this model although, as you ar writing, engine nacceles also need some attention.
26 December 2024, 13:04

Welcome mates and thanks for your encouraging and funny comments. Bottomline I am quite happy with the shade of red. I just haven't made up my mind about how gloss it should appear finally. If I would have had access to a cutter I would have scanned the bigger decals and cut masks for painting the letters.
Now what's left are the tail skid and a few bits and pieces at the wings and the stabiliser.
@Jakub: wing assembly requires some scraping and dry fitting. With super thin cement I didn't encounter any issues afterwards. But there still remains a considerable gap towards the flaps and ailerons which I filled with super glue.
1 27 December 2024, 08:21

Thanks mates. Let's see whether the year is still long enough to finish the plane.
1 28 December 2024, 17:59

Nice 👍
Regarding the cutter - you know I can always help here! If you still want to do it may another mate can scan the decals ... or next project.
29 December 2024, 20:08

I agree with everyone; great job, nice result, and I like it very much.
30 December 2024, 21:10

Thank you all for sneaking in.
Couldn't finish it last year, so might be the first to be completed this year.
Wish you all a lot of happy modelling in 2025.
1 2 January, 01:27

Thanks mates for yor very nice feedback. Is a nice kit. Still pondering about a few details for a little vignette.
5 January, 12:23

The figures and other elements look great. Are they 3D printed or commercial?
13 January, 19:39

Thanks Christoph and Cuajete,
all items are commercial, some classic resin casts, some 3D-printed.
1 13 January, 22:27

The comet turned out beautifully 😊 - excited to see the finished dio my friend 👌🤞
24 January, 08:07

Thank you Thomas.
progress is a bit slow as the last figure I bought needed a decent makeover due to casting imperfections. Same with the barrels I bought. Issues I weren't used to from.Balaton and White Storck Models.
24 January, 13:47

Thanks Alec. Yesterday two figures were painted, the barrels redone and after I went full circle I am back again at the high base which I left for - first a bigger, then a smaller one with different layouts. Now I am confident with the actual concept and I am optimistic that I can still finish it for the Moson Model Show end of april.
1 4 April, 17:03

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1 kuvien
Junkers Ju 52/3mde Colombian Air Force
1:72
projekti: Junkers Ju 53/3mde Colombian Air Force
1 14 April, 01:30

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70 kuvien
Fieseler Fi 156 Storch strip down
1:72
After pondering for - literally - years whether to display that bird with or without a propeller I finally opted for one...
projekti: Fieseler Fi 156 Strip Down
78 13 October 2021, 18:52

Thanx Mark. Happy to hear. It was no homerun and sat again and again for month until I gathered the motivation to overcome the hurdles I faced. But now I am happy to look at it.
15 October 2021, 12:24

I am deeply impressed with your perseverance...And the effect is stunning indeed!
1 15 October 2021, 13:12

Nicely done! It was a good decision to replace the closed cowling with the engine, luckily Karaya re-released the old ExtraTech sets.
One day I will solder this kit too as addition to the other stripdown kits of this series.
1 26 October 2021, 09:17

Danke Bughunter und Dominik.
I hope that Eduard will re-release those strip down kits with improved styrene or/and resin parts as they did with the Fokker Dr.I.
31 October 2021, 12:19

Could it be I saw this one in Lingen yesterday? It is a masterpiece of skill and concentration. You must be a Zen-master! 😉 👍 👍 👍
2 26 March 2023, 12:42

Hi Ralf, thanks for your nice comment. Indeed, this kit tested my skills, patience and perseverance as it is very fragile and some parts, like the leading edge slats, are quite tricky to assemble. But what you have seen in Lingen must have been another Zen-Master as I happen to work this weekend. 🙂
I case you like that Strip Down stuff, you are welcome to visit my Fokker Dr. I- build too. A kit which is much easier to handle.
Fokker Dr.I strip down 1:72 | Album by panorama (1:72)
26 March 2023, 13:41

Thanks Gorby.
I gotta take some decent pics of this model too. Somehow I always forget.
26 March 2023, 13:50

And thanks again for more likes. Am a little proud to have finished this one after the hard times it gave me. 🙂
11 April 2023, 07:02

Thanks a ton mates for the nice feedback. Makes me happy.
@Andrei: actually it is not that difficult as the layout of the kits is quite smart - most of the time. But I admit that some steps are a tad fumbly and tricky indeed.
1 27 March, 08:18

After seeing pic32: looks a bit crazy, because the legs are too long -> in flight position.
I know this only as I built the 1:48 Storch from Tamiya, see how it looks like on ground: Fieseler Fi 156 Storch - A-99 of Switzerland | Album by bughunter (1:48)
Tamiya offers a accessory kit: Fi156C Storch In-Flight Land..lay Set (Tamiya 12620, 1:48) which contains a stand and new parts for a in-flight extended landing gear, so yours looks more like this.
Perhaps an excuse could be that the aircraft is very light because it is only half built and has no fuel and no cargo, so the suspension lifts it up 🙂
1 27 March, 15:09

That was precisely my reasoning:😉
Otherwise I would have modified the hell out of this landing gear.
27 March, 17:30

Kidding aside, thanks Frank for your input. Always nice to learn.
27 March, 17:32

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64 kuvien
Sa´ar Israeli Dassault Super Mystere
1:72
Finally my beloved Reedoak figures arrived and I can commence the last step of this project.
projekti: Israeli Super Mystère
82 11 October 2021, 15:47

no - and no need to, as you cannot see the roof of the intake once the fuselage is closed.
Hi Cuajete, nice to have your attention. Stay tuned.
15 October 2021, 12:29

I missed this in October but will follow now. Nice paint job so far!
12 December 2021, 08:45

Hi mates! Nice to have you on board and thanx for the encouraging feedback.
13 December 2021, 08:53

You can try to cut the decal where it is silvering very carefully with a fresh scalpel blade. Then brush some highly diluted gloss varnish on that are (eg. Future). Like this the gloss varnish should get under the decal and stop the silvering.
18 December 2021, 20:34

Hi Bernd. Thanx for your advise. I tried it but it did not work too well. But I was lucky as a lot of silvering got covered with the gloss varnish that protects the decals.
14 January 2022, 18:08

This is so far great work and a great model. I just ordered it my self yesterday. i don't know how I missed your topic so far. Great camo work. I love this scheme.
Regarding the silvering: it tends to apparently dissapear behind a gloss varnish but will become obvious again once you apply satin or matt varnish. I would still try now in this phase to puncture it and use a decal solution. What do you use? For me the Tamyia Mark Fit works very well in most situations.
14 January 2022, 18:53

Sorry to hear my suggestion didn't work so well! I keep my fingers crossed that the silvering stays hidden now or perhaps Marius' tip works better! Anyway, what I see is very nice progress and a probably time consuming camouflage! Looks great!
15 January 2022, 08:49

Hi mates! Thanx for your likes. Much appreciated.
@Marius: welcome to the build and Thanx for the nice feedback. The kit is really a gem and I am sure you are going to enjoy it. There is actually not a lot of advice I can give as fit is really great. I did not align the wing roots perfectly and had to putty and sand a bit - thus loosing some details. In case you want to paint the naked aluminum areas around the stabilizers, consider mounting them AFTER all the painting, as masking this area with the stabs in place is really a challenge. I did not do too well on this section.
Concerning the silvering, I am quite optimistic as the semimatt varnish did nothing so far to make the silvering reappear.
I use MicroSol and MicroSet. By now I was happy with this combination, but as this' kits decals are a bit on the thick side, I indeed wished I had a stronger setting solution in my poison cabinet.
@Bernd: I will surely keep your technique in mind. It might work better in a different setting. Thanx for your motivating comment and - yes - the paint job is quite time consuming. But as I like the color scheme too, I won't complain. 🙂
15 January 2022, 17:33

Hi Mark, thanx for your encouraging comment. Nice to have you around.
16 January 2022, 12:32

A question to the crowd: I received CMKs Mystere maintenance crew and was wondering whether anyone out here has knowledge of the color of their clothes. Any input is appreciated. I am talking about israeli plane maintenance personel from the sixties and seventies. Somehow I could not find anything useful on the web.
16 January 2022, 12:36

Michael, you can't go too wrong with khaki green! But if you have a group of ground crew make sure they are all slightly different tones of Khaki green. Many Israeli personnel during this period were reservists and would have drawn their uniform from store at different times of services, so there is a large variation in colour and design of uniform. Also the kit issued to the army and airforce was pretty much the same.
I have a picture of the ground crew of 101 Sqn in 1967 on and around a Mirage (black and white unfortunately), there are 18 ground crew in the picture, 15 of them are wearing just shorts and are topless, everyone of the shorts is a different tone , 2 are in boots, the rest have flip flops on! One is in a white vest and Bermuda shorts. Those in full uniform, the tone of the shirt doesn't match the trousers. Hope that helps a little
16 January 2022, 17:01

Hi Mark, it definitely does help. So I will go for the color of the Israeli army gear with some variations. Thanx a ton.
16 January 2022, 19:19

It is done. I call it completed, although I want to build a little vignette in time. Some better and detailled pics will follow.
Time for a resume.
Kit:
Bottomline, the kit is great. Almost perfect fit and ease of construction make it a pleasure to build. If you leave the canopy closed there is no need for further details in the cockpit. I bought it, but think that the resin wheels are no significant improvement over the kits parts. I consider the engravings of just the right depth as they show beautifully after a wash without appearing exaggerated (which of cause they actually are). Clear parts have a perfect fit without any seam or imperfections and include the wings positioning lights.
Issues I had:
- at least without ordnance the Super Mystere turned out to be a tail sitter. This is not mentioned in the instruction. Be aware and put weight into the front. Space is plenty.
- the landing gear actuators bend if you install the wheel well doors closed, as shown on most parked Super Mysteres. Might be that this is my fault, but I have not figured (yet) where I might have taken a wrong turn.
Recommendations:
- leave the stabilizers off until after painting, as this will greatly facilitate masking this area
- replace the two pitot tubes in front. This will improve looks significantly. As there are no pitot tubes for this particular aircraft available yet, you either have to fashion them yourself or buy something similar. I found the Master Pitot tube for the L-29 Dolphin a good match. You get two as you need and you only have to shorten the front tips a bit. Easily done with a plier (Additional free advice: Do not loose one, as happend to me 😉 ).
- decals are beautifully printed but a bit on the thicker side. I did not use it, but it would probably not hurt using a strong decal softener as with MicroSol and MicroSet only they would not conform fully into the recess lines.
- be aware that the main landing gear wheels have a locating pin. They fit in one position only. I flattened the wheels without noticeing this and was left with a wrong orientation of the brake drums on one side. My bad.
- drill open the little holes in the front wheel. Looks better.
- sand the rims of the exhaust stack of engine and frame thinner. This improves appearance.
- I replaced the landing gear hydraulic pistons with segments cut from syringes and further detailled the gear with brake hoses. Almost nothing of this is seen. For a next build I would skip this.
Okay, those are my two cents on this magnificent kit. I think that Special Hobby is on par now with brands like Eduard, Tamiya, Meng and the like.
Final conclusion:
Buy it, enjoy it.
19 January 2022, 09:32

I am waiting for the final photo session, but it looks great already!!
Thank you Michael for the progress pictures and tips. Very, very helpful, at least for me, since I will be doing this kit at some point in the next 12 months.
😀
19 January 2022, 13:49

nice job michael!
camo and decals looks great, the tail fin is an eyecatcher 👌
22 January 2022, 22:40

Thanks Marius, Cuajete and Simon.
@Marius: if my remarks help others avoid problems and/or make the build more enjoyable, I am happy
23 January 2022, 16:05

Thanks a lot Bernd. Nice to read.
I just then realised that I only took some quick and dirty last pics. So I have to change that and take some decent ones.
@ Marius: You wanted to build this kit within the next 12 month, you said. On January 19th 2022. So - another 9 days to go. ;-P
10 January 2023, 12:15

Michael, you don't need to expose my empty promises every year 🙂.
Actually the kit is indeed on my very short list, but it will take a longer while to start it. As always, you have a stash lf many kits waiting for years for some attention, but then you get excited by a completely new topic, you buy a new kit and start that one.
14 January 2023, 08:45

Marius, your explanation sounds all to familiar to me. 🙂
14 January 2023, 16:13

Ok, finally I managed to shoot some final pics and posted them here.
I really enjoyed building this kit. I was only surprised to find it to be a tailsitter - an experience other modellers did not have. In case you want to build this beautiful kit I recommend to put a few grams of ballast into the nose. Apart from that the only mistake I made was flattening the wheels without paying attention to the fact that they are mounted in one position only. So now my brakes are not in line anymore.
This kit impressively shows how far Special Hobby have come. From "nice-that-they-released-it,-but-they-could-have-done-it-better"-kits to this one, which pleases with crisp details, fine mouldings and very good fit.
5 April 2023, 17:59

A very succesful model of yours, although it's not in an agricultural frame.
I notoced just now the chipping at the air intake. How did you do it?
5 April 2023, 19:37

Very nice to read your encouraging feedback. Thanks for that. It was a fun build and I am quite happy with the outcome.
@ Marius: the chipping has been done with the good ol sponge technique. Usually I don't like it, but here I managed to controll the effect and not to overdo it (apart from the fact that I do not know of any reference which supports any chipping there whatsoever. It was artistic license and educated guess. 😉 )
8 April 2023, 19:56

Nice topic and a very nice looking model as well - particularly like the pictures in the fake hangar! 👍
8 April 2023, 21:04

Thanks Alexander. I like the hangar background too. Hope that I will be able to build a real one too, to enhance the impression.
10 April 2023, 19:25

Thank you mates for all your likes. Happy to see this one being so well received
11 April 2023, 07:00

I had a hard time with silvering on my earlier kits, but once I started to correct my myriad of errors, silvering is more or less a thing of the past. Silvering does happen to me from time to time, and when that happens, I use the following steps to resolve it:
1) I carefully cut / pop the area which is silvering
2) I brush on a lot of Mark fit strong onto the area
3) Wait a bit for it to seep into the cut, and then use a damp cotton bud to roll out the excess liquid
4) Pray / Perform sacrifices to the modeling gods / Whatever your kit making ritual is here
5) If this doesn't work, I bring out the big guns - Walther's setting solution - as a last result, and repeat steps 1-4
The first Eduard kit I made had some really weird silvering issues - to the point I was ready to just paint some of the markings manually, until I applied the X-22 Gloss coat, then it went away. Applying a Matt coat after that didn't make the silvering reappear, so I just chalked that up to some oddity with Eduard decals - or something I goofed up on.
That said, LOVE the final result - and appreciate the step-by-step process!
18 April 2023, 17:05

Thanx CaptGPF for the detailled suggestion and the nice feedback. 🙂
19 April 2023, 09:17

Thank you mates. Waiting for a figure from Reedoak to complement and finalise the build.
3 April, 14:02

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40 kuvien
Queen Mary 2
1:400
Some progress. Hull is primed in white and top and bottom parts are painted. Masked for black painting.
projekti: Queen Mary 2
4 8 October 2024, 07:22

This project was started two years ago but then stopped. Now it's time to move on.
8 October 2024, 07:38

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27 kuvien
Strong Bacchus 1/35 
1:35
Just started this kit last night at modelling night at our local games/hobby store. It’s definitely going to need putty ...
projekti: Strong Bacchus
5 8 September 2024, 23:20

It will be a fun build. I want to experiment a bit with washes on this one, and try more streaking effects 🙂.
26 September 2024, 05:57

The weathering looks good. If you go into Albums than manage and look for Advance, you can rotate your pictures.
28 March, 04:11

Thanks for the kudos, and the advice on the photos! I will go in and rotate them now that I know how to do it.
28 March, 04:58

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8 3 March, 13:58

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39 23 September 2024, 04:00

VF-161 might just be my favorite Phantom scheme, so the box art sold me on this one. I need to enjoy a state-of-the-art kit and I hear Fine Molds is excellent. I got some masks and missiles on order but otherwise just a nice simple OOB here.
23 September 2024, 04:11

This kit is awesome. I'm already on to the main fuselage assembly and I'm not even rushing—it just falls together. Instructions say to paint (and decal?) after the fuselage and wings are attached
26 September 2024, 03:50

And then there were two! Building a Hasegawa 1/72 Phantom as a quick fun holiday ornament while I take my time on the Fine Molds paint job. Using DXM decals for a festive F-4J.
Thanks for following friends, was on a bit of a hiatus to work on some household projects.
14 December 2024, 17:54

Back to work now that it's warmer at the bench, and had to fix some warts on the paint scheme. Got the black stripe painted on the nose…excited to get to the decals
22 March, 22:49

This kit is awesome, everything fits together so that any seam is covered/not visible somehow. The decals are nice too, the data stencils are clustered in groups of the same carrier film so it's a lot less work getting everything on. One flaw with the option I picked: the long black decal on the spine can't be applied until the metal tail part is attached, and the instructions tell you to paint/decal before that.
24 March, 11:30

Hi gents thanks for visiting. Doing crazy metal masking stuff on the Phantom tailpipes. Doesn't exactly look right, I might try to darken the lighter metal somehow
5 April, 03:45

Looking great so far 👍! What's the other Phantom you are building in parallel?
13 April, 18:36

Thank you Sergej! That was actually a Hasegawa F-4 that I threw together as a Christmas tree ornament. I just decided to build it on a whim since I had this great sheet from DXM with a funny Christmas scheme. I actually really liked the Hasegawa kit, went together super well and the gear doors fit perfectly in a closed position. I'll definitely build one again
Rudolph the Red-Nosed Phantom - Merry Christmas! | Album by Rando (1:72)
14 April, 00:23

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143 kuvien
Wrocław Model Show 2025
This is made of paper :o Only scale can tell you that!
12 12 April, 19:56

The standard of modelling is astounding, as are those paper models! Thanks for taking the time to post the photos, I enjoyed looking though them. 👍
1 13 April, 10:10

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14 kuvien
Messerschmitt Bf-109 K4 (Revell 1:48)
1:48
projekti: Messerschmitt Bf-109 K4
10 3 March 2024, 13:33

How do you add info about a different scale than the actual being shown on the box? I can see this present on some kits but can't see how to do it.
13 April, 23:42

Are there any recent pictures of this ship?
13 April, 22:44

I'd check this thread for any reference on these ships: shipmodels.info/mws_..t=8143&start=860
1 13 April, 22:50

I've linked these two items:
Refuelling Set (Pumpaggregat..aestro Models MMS7201, 1:72)
Refuelling Set (Apron Models None, 1:72)
But they do not show up as linked, except in the Edit views. Have I done something wrong?
Refuelling Set (Pumpaggregat..aestro Models MMS7201, 1:72)
Refuelling Set (Apron Models None, 1:72)
But they do not show up as linked, except in the Edit views. Have I done something wrong?
13 April, 22:47

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6 kuvien
F-117 Ebay Hawk 
1:32
This is the stuff, the seller allready build so far.
projekti: F-117 Nighthawk
1 9 March, 22:40

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5 kuvien
Sand Shark AH-1
1:48
...Coming or going there is not a lot of width here (so makes for a small target).
projekti: Bell AH-1S Cobra
15 23 August 2022, 03:17

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31 19 February, 18:47

That's a nice interior. Will you make the hull lift off? I personally lack the patience for doing detail that won't be seen. I used to be in the "at least I know it's there" camp but the stash is large and life is short!
21 March, 20:15

Hi John, thanks. I am just like you, if it's not seen, not worth it. In this case the kit expressly direct you not to glue some parts. More specifically top of turret and turret can be removed, drum and drum cover as well. Engine cover can be lifted also. Only the driver seat will be sacrificed but the latch will be open. The kit is very demanding, in terms of patience, the sprues are listed all the way to the letter "Z" and some are duplicated (3 sprues "F"..) and many parts, to get together, direct you through 3 or 4 different sprues. Instructions (30 pages) are not tge best around. It took me a while to start this subject and it is my first (and last) tank, btw...
21 March, 22:00

Turned out great. Interior is fantastic, must've taken a while! Like the camo scheme too 👍
10 April, 19:53

Thank you John, yes it took a while and some patience...
11 April, 07:42

Top result! Very interesting interior. I think you can see here well the dangerous placement of the ammunition in the center of the hull.
11 April, 08:48

Actually it was very instructive on how these things work (I am a planes guy..). Yes sitting in there looks dangerous and suffocating but the autoloader system is interesting since you can have just 3 crewmembers. One scary stuff about this kit is that, until the end, you don't know if everything is going to fit well together 😅.
11 April, 09:08

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172 kuvien
My Finished Us Army and Marine Corps. 
1:72
projekti: Braille Scale Armor Collection
Scratchbuilt
6 23 September 2022, 02:22

Looking for 2025 Markings! Plan to build a diorama with 2 retards from a retarded country
13 April, 21:37

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96 kuvien
Iveco Hi-Way E5 Abarth - WIP
1:24
Assembling...
projekti: Iveco Hi-Way E5 Abarth
25 5 March, 22:12

Maybe there is some mold release still on the plastic. Instructions often say to wash parts. I never do and never have had trouble but I guess it's possible?.
6 March, 12:19

Strange. Never had such issue with Italeri truck panels before. Don't think it is ABS - try to glue some sprue bits with Tamiya Extra Thin. I don't think this glue will work on anything that is not styrene. Never used Gaia primer - only using Mr. Surfacer and Mr. Priming Surfacer. Is the Gaia primer lacquer or acrylic? Not sure if you have already did it but try to scuff the panels with Tamiya 3000 or 2000 grit sanding sponge (or similar) before priming. Another idea worth trying is to clean the panel with IPA - maybe the release agent Italeri used don't come off easily with just water and soap.
6 March, 14:41

Oh no guys, this time it's just a straight build...
@Goldman - Yeah As you said, it doesn't seem to be ABS, and I sanded it and used a lacquer surfacer, but strangely the paint didn't stick. Washing with IPA is a good tip, thanks.
6 March, 17:44

Late to the party! Apologies, work has taken over my life 🙁
I'm definitely in for the duration, on this one!
8 March, 06:09

The paint is definitely your issue. Most of my trucks are painted with Tamiya paint. I've never had much luck with model air paint. AK doesn't work for me either. I find it best to use a primer, the lads have already pointed out the best, but I've also used Tamiya primer from a rattle can, as well as decanted. However, I've also used both Tamiya and Mr Colour, straight onto the plastic. Some colours over here, are hard to match, so I go to the automotive store and get the colour I want, and also the matching primer. Again, I decant these into a glass jar, and I leave the lid loose, to allow the gasses to fully disperse from the paint. After a day, I simply add a little cellulose thinner and then mix it up, and airbrush it.
8 March, 06:26

Custom decals - that's new. Really nice design. Looks like a huge amount of work
18 March, 19:05

Great idea scribing the part numbers. I used a POSCA marker to write them (usually the last digit is enough) but it is too easy to erase the POSCA marks by just handling the parts.
20 March, 20:24

Bummer with the fuel tank. I think all metallic paints are hard to mask. Sometimes it works most times you get these (unwanted but very realistic) "chipping" effect.
For fuel tanks I gave up "proper" metallic and just use Mr. Hobby Silver C8. It is not a metallic paint but it looks very good and very durable. Got this tip from Jan Rosecky excellent book "The Complete Guide to Truck Modelling"
7 April, 04:13

When you sand for gloss, don't you have difficulties that when sanding red areas in your instance, the dust ruins the white surfaces?
8 April, 18:10

I guess he used a top layer of clear gloss which was sanded and then polished. So, effectively the colors are protected by the clear coat
8 April, 19:09

@Andre - Yeah, that's correct. I had clear coated twice before sanding. 🙂
@Michael - And in that case, you can erase it by gently wiping it with a compound.
9 April, 02:41

Ah. Thanks for the inside. I understood that you sanded the colors to prepare them for a clear coat. Hence my question. Now it's clear to me.
9 April, 09:17

Italeri do have this kinds of stupid random errors in its kits. Annoying, but since Italeri is the only company that still offers European plastic moulded kits of trucks I guess beggars can't be choosers.
I *think* that there is no clear decal film between the lettering for the tyres to improve appearance. It will be almost impossible to hide the clear film on the rubber tyres. Not sure that having separate letters is the best solution. If you want I think MBM sells PE templates to airbrush the words on tyres.
13 April, 15:57

@Goldman - I'm ok without it. I don't care anymore. hahaha!!! Thanks bro~ 😄
13 April, 19:29

if the decals are still in the sheet (misaligned but there) its easy to scan, convert to vectors, align, make masks in vinyl and try to paint them with mask 😉 and if decals are gone, well, MS K knows how to vector them, and has the cutter already available 😉
13 April, 19:34

@Spanjaard - I thought about making my own decals, but I was too lazy to change the toner to print white. LOL
And since the base color of the self-made decal shows through a lot, it is better to avoid attaching it on top of a dark color. 😉
13 April, 19:51

i did not say anything about making decals, but masking to airbrush the missing decals 😉
13 April, 20:59

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18 12 February, 17:33

Jak się składał? Wygląda na dobrze zaprojektowany - mam "nowszą" wersję z kabiną w powiększonym stateczniku pionowym i się waham, czy go zacząć, czy nie. Nie mam zbyt dużo wolnego czasu, więc zabawa w "rzeźbienie" odpada...
13 April, 18:33

Jak się składał? Tak sobie... Amusingi generalnie są słabe w składaniu (dużo szpachli na łączeniach połówek kadłuba, łączeniach skrzydeł itp.), ale jednocześnie mają - dla mnie - bardzo fajne tematy, szczególnie what if-y 🙂 Robiłem już od nich kilka modeli i niestety. wszędzie podobne oceny składalności :-/
Z tym, że ja nie zaliczam się do „liczynitów" - więc mi tak bardzo to nie przeszkadza, bo tematy naprawdę mają fajoskie 😄
1 13 April, 19:12

Dzięki za info. Ja też buduję modele dla frajdy i kieruję się zasadą "to mi się podoba" 😉 Z Amusing Hobby złożyłem kiedyś Triebflugela i pamiętam, że poszło szybko i bezproblemowo... Może jednak wezmę tego Messera na warsztat...
1 13 April, 20:52

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15 20 March, 11:36

At 55 years old here it's really hard to stand on my head, if you go into advanced settings you can turn your photo's to face correctly. I know because I have to fix all of mine too. Have fun with the photo etch, thats actually my favorite part of building a model. You'll need a folding jig to do really nice bends, and for glue I've used and had great results with Clear Nail Polish, Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear, Mig Ultra Glue, and of course super glue. For positioning I do a 2 step process when my pe part is ready to install, first a tiny dab of Microscale's Micro Liquitape and let it dry a few minutes till it turns clear. It in now sticky like a very light adhesive and can be placed and manipulated into just the right position, then a dab of your choice of glue. If you go with any brand super glue and it's the thin kind I highly recommend a Glue Looper set, very cheap and will last forever. Clean up old glue on the tip with a cigarette lighter. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your build 🙂
1 20 March, 18:44

I've done a terrible job with my first ever part.
Glue looper? Why have I never heard of these things? lol we are practically twins. Well, I'm 56. With the modelling skills of a 5 year old 😳😂
20 March, 22:01

@lorraine are there actual female modellers? Clair is that a male name where you live? Surely there aren't 2 female modellers on earth? I'm showing my 1970's attitude here. 😳😂
By the way Lorraine cute cat. I have a dog but he's scared of cats. In fact he's even scared of doors! lol
20 March, 22:03

Danny, female modelers are relatively fewer in China, especially military modelers. But we do exist😜 And I also see many females in this community.
[img1]
2 20 March, 23:38

Thats ok Danny, Im 55 and act about 5 lol. I get along with my 3 year old grand daughter on the same level 🙂 Clair is a dude unless there's an e on the end usually. I have 2 cats, the one is super skittish, I remember when he was a kitten he farted, it scared him n he ran a good 15 feet before turning around to look at his butt. Hahaha
2 21 March, 00:06

Oh and to get that paper off use some nail polish remover. It dissolves super glue pretty quick. Then touch it up.
1 21 March, 00:12

Great conversation going on here!
I have to catchup:
1st - I'm in the same age bracket at 59 with the modelling ability of a 90 year old who can't find his glasses 🙂
2nd - whats this I here about using a lighter to cleanup the tip on glue! How does that work? Is it for super glue cleanup? I'm always dealing with nasty clogs.
3rd - Where I live in Canada we have very few female modellers. In fact, I have never seen one. I have a theory that females can be amazing modellers because of small fingers. I don't have fat sausage fingers but they are big enough to get in the way of intricate work.
4th - @Danny I know another modeller on here named Jennifer. She is relative new to the hobby and already quite good. Lorraine's work is amazing!
Lastly - I have cats. I use to have dogs when I was younger, but now it's cats. They drive me crazy and I think the little assassins are trying to kill me, but I love them to bits.
1 21 March, 03:48

I love this site. So much good advice and just when I felt like giving up I get lots of lovely people encouraging me to carry on. Thank you. I also need to give a shout out to Jakko. I drive him crazy with almost daily questions and he's never once told me to stop and leave him alone! 🙂
@Rui, I'd love to see a few more females in the hobby. In fact I need a new wife and one who could help me build a model would be a definite bonus. It's all about the lack of sausage fingers, as you say 😂
2 21 March, 07:02

For PE parts, I use lighter to clean up the instant glue. It works very well, 100% burned up.
And sometimes, I wish I had a third hand, help me to hold the small parts so I can glue them together😛
2 21 March, 08:33

Remove superglue from a glue looper, a needle, blade, or whatever metal item you use, by holding it into the flame of a lighter. Let the tool cool of, remove residue with a paper towel.
1 21 March, 08:53

Thanks Thomas.
@lorraine a third hand would be invaluable! In fact on a serious note are there items you can get to help with that? I often find myself wishing I had something to place a model in when I need to add a tricky part. I bought a small jewellers vice that I sometimes use but if there are other devices I'd love to try one!
21 March, 10:35

I bought a soldering helping hands in electronics store. It helps sometimes.
2 21 March, 12:04

I think I'll get one too Lorraine. By the way I'm seriously impressed at your skill. Are you a professional model maker? Or something similar? Film business?
21 March, 23:30

I have the same kit on my workbench right now, take care the instructions have a few errors and some missing steps to do, just in case you haven't noticed
1 22 March, 10:43

Danny, I'm not a professional modeler. Building
models is just a hobby in my spare time. I've learned a lot of skills in this community.
3 22 March, 15:23

I have 3 or 4 helping hands of different sizes but this one is on my "snag it eventually" list : amazon.com/gp/produc..8B8CMKBF3NX&th=1 , should prove handy when I am repairing electronics as well.
1 22 March, 19:12

@Robert yeah I've noticed one error so far. I bet yours comes out a lot better than mine!
23 March, 17:35

@lorraine how long have you been modelling? You really are skilled. I'm very new to it but I think it'd take me at least a decade to get to your level!
23 March, 17:37

@Danny, t's not about better, it's just about fun !! and you learn and get better with every model you build - may you've noticed that K3 and K4 track parts the designations are swapped, some drill holes that need to be made are not shown, best you download the instructions of the original Academy kit, last page shows some corretions .... scalemates.com/products/img/5/1/1/839511-44-instructions.pdf
3 23 March, 21:34

Well said Robert, without having a fun time we'd all be doing something else instead.
3 23 March, 23:29

@Danny, about 6-7 years. Agree with Robert and Clair, it's all about having a fun time. I enjoy those few hours late at night when I build models. I can fully immerse myself and forget about other worries. And I also enjoy to learn and to share with all the friendly mates here.
3 24 March, 03:21

I agree but I'm at the stage where I'm messing everything up. I think it'll be a lot more fun when I get a bit better and I have a system for doing things. I mostly make (so far. I have 61 kits and about 2/3rds are AFV) tanks. Can't decide whether it's better to spray the wheels and tracks before adding them or once they're glued in place. I'm veering towards the 'before' scenario. Same with the tools and things like machine guns and rifles (from my universal carrier). I don't feel confident at all with figures. In fact I'd even say they scare me. 😳😂
24 March, 16:13

@Danny, take it easy, may start with your more simple kits, to mess something up sometimes is part of the never ending learning process and fortunely on armour models you can easy hide a mistake by covering it with something, at least mostly 😉 I airbrush the assembled main groups, hull, turret, wheels, tracks... separately. I also glue small things like tools before airbrushing to the hull, I've no problem to paint small things with a fine brush after... just look always what makes more sense. Figure painting is also not such a big deal, many tuturial on YT, start with simple guides.... and don't try to paint eyes, mostly not necessary at all 😮
2 25 March, 12:26

Danny bro,. you didn't mess anything up... Thats the beauty of modelling war machines, Battle Damage 🙂 I've been building models on and off since '74 and I still make colossal goofs here and there. I was doing a Santa Maria all wood kit and guess what, I goofed and cut off in scale probably about 10 feet on the poop deck. I just planked and kept going, now it's a pee deck that bring your own bottle Hahahaha. We all screw up dont fret just learn and do better on the next one buddy 🙂 As for painting, I always paint parts separately, my hands shake a good bit anymore so I'd make one hell of a mess if I didnt.
2 25 March, 23:40

Thanks chaps. Great advice. That made me laugh clair. Pee deck and bring your own bottle. 😂
I actually thought this yesterday. Why am I worrying about a rip in a wire mesh on a machine that's had dozens of armour piercing shells slung its way? Of course it's gonna look beaten up! That's a sure sign that I've not (yet) done any weathering whatsoever! 🙂
And Robert I agree. It's a good job I've (now) got 62 kits (just bought another panzer iv by Ryefield oh and a hetzer by Takom so 63 kits! (They were so cheap on temu. The Ryefield was just £11! Well with my discount.
I have now stopped buying. For now 🙂
1 26 March, 08:03

Danny You surely can do better. Because I just joined this community last year, while you've been here since the very beginning😜
26 March, 15:22

Not me Lorraine. I only joined in November. Or thereabouts 🙂
You did say you've been model building for about 6 years? I might have mixed up your comment with someone else. It's my age! Lol
27 March, 10:24

Can somebody take away my credit card please? I just saw a Takom 1:35 panzer III Ausf.M mit schurzen (armour skirts) on Temu and it was only £15. God knows where I'm gonna put these models once they're built? I'll need at least 3 more houses. Maybe I can build a few model blocks of flats? 😂
While I'm here, do any of you use those PE bending tools to help you? Some are like metal rulers with lots of different shapes to bend around. Another type is a square with another square with shapes cut out and there's a screw down clamp to securely fix the part down when bending. I can get one of each type for around £7 with my current discount . Are they worthwhile or just a gimmick?
On a similar note, I wish I could find a solution to my many different diameter circle masks. Being primarily interested in AFV builds, I find I need (especially if the road wheels are rubber edged and therefore painted in black(ish), I know you can buy specific wheel masks for many kits but they're not cheap. I was wondering if there's a good universal solution. A tool or technique where you can make your own masks or stencils. Bearing in mind, I have the abilities of a not particularly bright or gifted toddler 😂😂😂
27 March, 10:39

I use a Bug from the Small Shop and it's simply a must have to get great folds on the first try. Each bend at the same spot makes brass weaker. So yes, definitely get a screw down type.
As for question 2 >>> Tadah!!!!! scalehobbyist.com/ca..00000048/product.php
I bought one, seems nice quality but haven't needed to actually use it yet.
1 27 March, 10:47

Thanks Clair. You the man. As they say. Funny to think I thought you might've been the (wo)man before you educated me about the different spellings of your name! 🙂 then again (I'm assuming here yet again) you Americans do love to change the spelling of the mother tongue! lol 😂😂😂😁😁
But seriously, thanks for the reply and advice. It does make it feel like I'm not in this arms race against 1940's nazism alone. Even though I'm building German tanks 😁😊
You've convinced me. I'm gonna buy a screw down clamp thing. I mean, for equivalent of ten US dollars, you can't really go wrong?
27 March, 11:11

I wonder if that stencil you linked would cover the British tanks too? I see that panzer iv is mentioned. I have all the British tanks to build. Churchill, Cromwell, valentine, crusader, Matilda as well as the Brit versions of American tanks like Grants, Lees, Stuart's, and shermans ? I guess it'd be expecting a bit too much to have a single stencil to cover all German, American and Brit machines? 🙂
27 March, 11:39

@Danny, I have this USTAR UA-80026, covers all wheel diameters, at least I didn't have one where it didn't fit in scale 1/35. For bending PE parts just a small tool which is usually sufficient for what I need it [img1] [img2]
1 27 March, 12:37

Thanks Robert. I've just bought something similar on temu and a square one that you can screw down. Because I've been buying a lot of kits from them I had some discount. The screw down type was originally £20. I got it for £6. Hopefully it'll be decent quality. I'll have a look at the wheel mask. As well as the one Clair suggested. Thanks to you both.
2 29 March, 20:55

Helpful tips abound here. Sorry I missed it til now. Photo 5 looks nicely done. I apply superglue with a sewing needle with the end of the eye cut off like a tiny little U. When it gets gummed up I burn the glue off with a lighter. In my late 50's as well.
My girlfriend builds models as well but isn't on scalemates. I like to build things with my kids also.
3 29 March, 21:04

Gee Ben, that's a really smart idea there with the needle. I like the ingenuity bud 🙂
1 30 March, 07:24

Hi Ben. I forgot that I bought this little tool from Temu. It's a very fine needle on a small spring and it unscrews from the handle where it's safely stored away. Basically you just dip it in the super glue then dot it where you want it. When it first arrived a couple of months ago I was disappointed but it really has helped. Though I obviously had to remember I had it first! lol
So your whole family model build? That's great 🙂
30 March, 12:55

@clair shall I post a link to the needle tool I bought? It's just a small bullet looking piece of metal that unscrews then you screw it in the other end. It's just a really fine needle on a small limited movement spring like joint. A lot more handy than I first thought! Bear with me I'm not good with computers/phones. I've added a picture of the tool in the project/build photos. See it? They sell them on Amazon too but it was half that price on temu.
2 30 March, 12:58

Actually Danny yeah I'll grab me a few next week when I get my ssi in.Thanks man I'd like to give that a shot, looks very useful.
1 30 March, 15:52

I'm embarrassed to post any more pics of the build. It looks like an explosion in a Humbrol liquid poly and Tamiya extra thin plant as an Airfix lorry carrying T34-85 112 Factory production 1:35 kits was passing….😳
Don't think I'm ever gonna get a call from Industrial Light and Magic with a job offer. 😂
1 13 April, 12:35

Naw buddy, Im sure it's nothing some putty wont take care of, nothing else use tarps and mud to cover bad spots. Perhaps it's a battle damaged 34 getting hauled back for repairs... 🙂
1 13 April, 20:41

Everybody started somewhere, and nobody built award-winning models when they were just starting out.
Also, you'll be amazed what a coat of paint while hide, never mind the suggestions above 🙂
13 April, 20:48

lisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
8 30 March, 19:24

I made one of these and bought a second one, but made sure that I had a turned barrel set for both of them. Griffon has a nice one.
Flak 38 | Album by StevenVD (1:35)
2 April, 06:07

Of course, I replaced with metal, but making such a product as in the picture is a scandal. This is forcing you to buy extras
1 2 April, 10:36

lisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
19 5 April, 17:33

Starting a very rare bird. (I am getting bored with the other 9 builds I have still in progress).
2 5 April, 17:42

lisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
31 2 January, 21:43

Nice job so far! Reminds me to continue work on mine. I am also stuck with the fitting of the front transparent part. I use thin layers of evergreen strips to close in on the gaps, but I am not quite there yet…
4 January, 08:59

Thomas, thank you for your advice. I will see the old remains, maybe there willl be something "filler".
4 January, 12:13

What a fight this little helo puts up! But you seem to be on top of it, so I am waiting for the next steps!
23 March, 16:24

Mates! Thanks for the comments and nice words, it gives me strength.
1 23 March, 22:10

lisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
38 kuvien
Tamed Panther: "Cuckoo"
1:35
And the one on the left, plus an RFM track link as a spare.
projekti: Tamed Panther
14 13 February, 15:55

This looks better than my Panther. Then again my Tamiya was/is (it's in the paint shop) my first ever 1:35 scale AFV…if I ever get to your level of build quality I'll be a happy cockney 😘😇😊😊😁
1 6 March, 11:02

By the way, you can always trust you Jakko to have an interesting subject matter. Something a little quirky or different. Never knew the allies had one. It was relatively common to use an enemy's vehicles I believe but it's still somewhat of a shock when you actually see it.
1 6 March, 11:11

There are a good number of photos of captured Panthers used by the Allies, but Cuckoo is probably the best-known. For a lot more pictures of all kinds of captured German vehicles, take a look at this thread on Missing-Lynx: tapatalk.com/groups/..-allies-t337227.html
1 6 March, 11:23

If you look at the new hatch door you built, if you zoom in a little it looks a little bit like the palm tree part of the DAK marking that has the tree with a swastika half way down its trunk. Or am I going mad? They do say the human brain tries to find familiar shapes in everything. Could be a case of that! 🙂
1 6 March, 11:25

You mean on the Zimmerit? That's an arrow pointing up, to ensure the hatch would end up the right way round 🙂 I had to take care that the ridges and grid pattern on the hatch line up with those on the turret, and the arrow helps with that.
2 6 March, 12:06

Thanks, I like model threads that actually show what the builder is doing rather than just posting the finished article 🙂
2 7 March, 10:03

Ahhh thanks for the explanation Jakko. I thought it must've been intentional!
1 7 March, 11:24

Bedankt 🙂 I now have to figure out what most of the other stuff is that was on the real tank when it was photographed near Geijsteren and in Tilburg. Some of it's easy, like a couple of jeryrcans, a bucket, etc. but other bits are very hard to make out.
11 April, 20:22

lisäsi uuden valokuva-albumin.
28 kuvien
Tiger Moth Work-In-Progress
1:48
The CMK wheel set is nice too! It offers 3 variants of rims outside (with DH logo cover, plain cover and no cover) and t...
projekti: De Havilland Tiger Moth
30 26 March, 12:03

After I got this kit as present - Thank you Kenneth - I found also some accessories. Luckily the kit was some years old so I found the sets cheaper. The start was triggered recently while I was cleaning my bench and working room. All the additional CMK boxes were to big to fit them into the Airfix box so I cut some of the bigger resin parts from the mold. But once they are cut I found myself mounting them.
Yeah, my first Airfix kit and my first CMK cockpit set 👍
26 March, 12:10

Hey Luke - you are the lucky first one! A warm welcome.
Just added some more pictures.
1 26 March, 13:21

Joining the audience for this build. 🙂
The cockpit looks great and the instrument panels look amazing!
1 26 March, 14:10

Welcome and thank you gorby!
The CMK set is really great so I have not used much from the kit yet and in opposite to other projects no scratch work is needed 🙂
1 26 March, 16:49

That'll be another great result 👍 You will be adding the rods that connect the throttles, the tailplane trim (on the left fuselage half), the slat controls (on the right fuselage half), the rudder bars, and to their respective destinations (engine, tailplane, slats)?
1 26 March, 18:18

Thank you Kenneth for the detailed information and pictures!
One remaining question on the right side of the cockpit, see picture 16 (part of the Eduard manual).
The parts 29 are the control of the slats, that's clear. But what is the purpose of the two levers 10? Should I leave them out?
7 April, 13:28

I've never ever seen such levers (10), and I wouldn't know what they should operate. One guess - and I repeat guess - would be for actuating retro-fitted wheel brakes on a modern, restored aircraft. Personally, I'd leave them out.
1 7 April, 16:31

That seems to be a good educated guess Kenneth 👍 So I have not mounted the levers (10).
In meantime I found some PDFs of original manuals! Very interesting drawings 🙂
In pic 16 Eduard showed two levers 29, the CMK cockpit set only one. May be there are updates with slat control in both cockpits but the original drawing shows this lever onll in back cockpit. So I followed the CMK manual. Now I understand also how this control wire runs to the upper wing and can clearly see it on the reference pictures of "my" Tiger-Moth.
Regarding the little maintenance lids: Eduard provides around 80 and the instructions where to add those. They seems to follow the original generic drawings, but on "my" Moth the layout seems to be different. For example they are sitting on the lower surface on the tail plane instead of upper. So I followed my ref pics here, but this task is not yet complete.
2 9 April, 19:11

Welcome to this build Alex and Lorraine!
Due to spring and nice weather outside not much progress as hoped, but may be some new pics soon.
13 April, 14:00

Welcome Marcel!
Added some new pics. Decided for a different mounting order. The instructions says to cover the engine early, but as the covers overlap the fuselage that complicates the paint job.
13 April, 20:14
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