Uutisvirta

Skyhiker
Oh, this looks like fun!

Chris Parsons
Oh ya!
Built a couple of Broplan vac kits, a real challenge but great for the feeling of overcoming a challenge and creative accomplishment

Thomas Kolb
OMG, what a challenge! 🙂 Those panel lines look quite uneven, will you try to rescribe them or just take them for what they are? In any way, I am super curious how these sheets of plastic can be turned into a model, so I will watch with interest!

DuperScale
Welcome mates, the panellines are aweful but the material is so thin, i'm scarred that i cut right trough it when i try to rescribe them.

Łukasz Gliński
Another BroPlan fan, welcome to the club 😄

Nicolas
Following. Got my first vacu kit this weekend. I hope I can learn something here.

Robert Podkoński
Ambitious project! Watching.

Chris Parsons
Hi DuperScale, I built a couple of Broplan vac ATR kits, converting one 72 500 to a 42 300. A few pics of the work in my "albums" if you're interested in the kind of model you can achieve from a Broplan kit with a bit of work…sweat and tears, foul language, alcohol and time….

Cristian A
Following along.

Michael Kohl
Mee too.

J35J
Following with intrest! 👍🏻

Finn
This will be good

Ben M
👀

Treehugger
DuperScale, how about scribing into a layer of primer paint?
This way, scribing should be a lot easier afaik, scribing into the primer layer of paing, and not plastic.
This guy on youtube did this, on regular plastic models though.

Treehugger
As for the clear parts, I wonder if it could be done this way
1) Cut out a square/rectangle shape, removing the oval form from windows. The larger the hole the better, to create some extra space around the old window shape. Enough space to work with putty later on.
2) Glue in a flat thin strip of transparent styrene on inside of model.
3) Glue in a square/rectangle shape transparent styrene, outside the model, laminated with the existing strip of transparent styrene on inside, so double layered.

If keeping the new window parts larger than the old window shape it should be easier to use some putty after adding masking tape that have the shape of the old windows. The larger these new outer square/rectangle window shapes are, the easier it is to add putty to create a smooth surface, then hopefully the center part is clear enough, to mask off the final shape of the old window shape, before painting.

Afaik a common issue using Mikro Kristal Klear is that you can't sand the clear part afterwards, because the clear part is like rubber iirc. You can iirc easily remove this clear part though, just poke/pull it out. Unsure if there would be any residue left after removing the rubber like liquid clear stuff after it dries.

Treehugger
Another thing one could do with clear parts an idea:
1) Glue in a long strip of transparent styrene on inside of plane.
2) Add some kind of epoxy or something that can be sanded, without the epoxy damaging the underlying transparent styrene.
3) Idea is to use the liquid stuff to fill in the perfectly shaped holes for the windows, then sand the liquid stuff flush after it dries.

What won't work imo, is doing multiple rounds of adding liquids to create some goo that goes transparent. I think if you sand this stuff multiple times adding more liquid stuff, you get a flawed result I think. I tried something like that with gloss varnish, trying to build up a solid clear shape. Did not work as expected.

Treehugger
In this thread, and in photo #13, the guy apparently put tape outside, and poured clear resin on the inside to fill the window holes. Unsure if such resin will react and maybe eat up or warp any thin parts ala vacuum kits. I guess this can be tested with some scrap plastic if having some piece left over.

Boeing 737-530 Smart Wings 1:144 | Album by Zbynek (1:144)

Łukasz Gliński
The UV transparent resin is usually sandable (to some degree), maybe that might help?
Similarly to Treehugger I'd reinforce it with a transparent styrene from the inside of the fuselage anyway.
Or you might leave the windows open and fill them with Kristal Klear after painting - this is what I did on my Jetstream, Avanti & Yak-40. But if you want to seal it with gloss varnish, remember to keep very thin layers (guess how I learned it 🙂).
[img1]
Blue Jetstream (SP-KWN) | Album by Woody (1:72)
Avanti! | Album by Woody (1:72)

DuperScale
Hi, thanks for the input mates. I'm quite happy with the kristal clear on the small windows and i think i do it like Lukasz said. After everything is done i do the windows as the last step.

The windscreen window could work but i think i used little to much of the kristal clear.

Mr D
Good to see a vacform 😃👍

Cuajete
Well done so far 👍

David Taylor
Watching.

J35J
Great work so far with the vac👍🏻

Mr D
Like the cockpit..👍
Lots of work but doing a 👍 job... Be rewarding when done.

Cuajete
Great (hard) job so far. Go on!

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Chris Parsons
Very nicely done and great progress!
Keep up the great work

David Taylor
You have definitely got your work cut out.

J35J
The kit is coming together very good. You are skilled and brave!
Great to follow the journey to see the final result. 👍🏻

prelude BCh
Vous êtes en Belgique mais vendez en Yen ??

Sy Bar
Was going to do the Battle of Britain version of this kit but I'm temped to have a go at some winter white wash and the wasp is cooler than the shark mouth 😎

Nicolas
Following

István Szücs
I also have Bf-110 from the Airfix, I will build an Italian night fighter. The sprues are the same, so I'm watching!

Sy Bar
Cheers guys.
I'm have a go at riveting, but going freehand as at this scale using tape was taking so long. I also not sure how much they will stand out on finish kit, but with the wonky line in parts they will probably bee seen from mars 🤣

Mark Sherwood
Looking good so far, like the underside. 🥸👍

Sy Bar
Cheers #Mark

Skyhiker
Sy, how was the fit on this kit?

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Sy Bar
Cheers #Guy 👍
#Skyhiker I found the fit to be good, I had a very slight gap at the front but think that was as much to do with me and the fitting of the pit (not the clearest instructions there). Every thing else was fine and the canopy was a good fit, I did change order of build slightly with the tail section I glued the rear piece to the body first then added the tail (after I'd added the stabilisers/rudders) this made more sense than the instructions 😁

Sy Bar
Only issue I have with this kit are the decals. While they look great and are in perfect register, they have a large amount of film edging and are both thick and delicate at the same time🤪
Having a hard time getting them to settle into the panel lines etc. I usually just need to use micro sol but even ultimate extra strong is not have much effect. Going to have to wait till I get some Tamiya fixer, strong and extra strong hopefully one of these will help 🤞

Mr D
You should be ok with the medium one with Airfix decals,
I like a mix of Water in with the markfix...seems to keep the decal floating longer.
I did the teeth on my p40 this way.
If they started getting bit sicky...l would add bit more water....keep it floating.
Wouldn't like to do shark teeth with HB decals 🤔🤣.... The lightning ⚡ strike on my mig-15 just fell apart with hardly any working.
Good luck with it ..look forward to seeing 😃👍👍

Dave Flitton
Looking good!

Sy Bar
Cheers for advice #Mr D. Afraid this set of decals were unaffected by all solutions but the mark fit super strong did have some effect. To make head way I found I needed to add the solution then after a few seconds apply hot air from a hairdryer to 'shrink wrap' the decal. These have to be the worst decals I've come across..
I recommend anyone doing this kit to source a set of decals rather than use those provided, they are not for beginners that's for sure. I hope the carrier film will disappear under a gloss coat but I didn't want to risk it so I've only applied the larger decals the smaller ones while add great detail if cartograf here they are 90% carrier film.

Skyhiker
Why don't you just cut the carrier film away with a knife before applying them?

Mr D
Hi Sy
That's ok .... I think the result will be fine after a clear coat, you come out of it without wrinkles, bubbles or tear's so it's a win, very smart n be sorted under a clear.👌👍👍

Sy Bar
Cheers #Mr D
#Skyhiker that's idea but life's too short for the amount there is, the size of the decal that's left will look like small black dots everywhere (especially the fuselage rib numbers 🤪); would be ok in 48 but too much in 72. Also I'm probably going to much it all up when I apply the winter white wash 😆

Miguel Vaquero
Looking incredible! Following

Ludwig Micallef
Thanks Miguel

Doubtingmango
Beautiful spit!

Matti Thomaes
Very beautiful dio, the waves look so real

Vincent
Very nice!!! Great work on the water effects.

Miguel Vaquero
Incredible Ludwig!! How did you make those waves, they look amazing

Ludwig Micallef
Thanks for the comments lads!

@Miguel - the water is mainly epoxy resin tinted with light transparent blue, let that set and then built up the waves using AK water effects which isn't fully clear when it cures, then finished off using AK water foam effects for the white foam. Along the way I used an airbrush to create the natural shapes of the waves & foam and a damp piece of foam for the bubbles.

Miguel Vaquero
Thanks for the info Ludwig!! Your results are amazing. I intend to create soon a sea diorama with resin too so I really appreciate all this info

Ludwig Micallef
Welcome Miguel! Glad to be of help 🙂

J35J
Beautful build and dio! The weathering is really spot on. Congrats👍🏻

Ben M
The waves and water are particularly great!

gorby
Excellent work!

Mike Siemers
Very nice, great paint scheme and paint job. Did you pre-shade or post-shade? I have this kit in my stash, and your just inspired me to make this my next project. 🫡

DerMattes
Great build of a beautiful jet! 👍

Cristian A
The Alligator is finished, I appreciate the professional photos from my IPMS club colleagues. More photos will be added to this album later.

★ Starfish ★
Fantastic!

Cristian A
Thanks Mike_AUT, looking forward to your Alligator ;p

DerMattes
Great build! 👍

Bas Tonn
I'll take a seat. Big fan of this helicopter and its variants.

Finn
Following

Nicolas
Following

Łukasz Gliński
Wondering how good this kit is, will follow

servalpe
@Lukasz, this kit is not bad. I have done some scratch, like seat belts, collective pitch levers, panel and console due to missing details on cockpit. The Hobby Boss SH/HH-60 family is the good one 😉

Ekki
Watching.

Villiers de Vos
Nice work on the instrument panel. very nice progress.

Michael Kohl
which version are you going for?

servalpe
@Michael. UH-60A with desert scheme - Gulf War»Operation Desert Storm.

Stephan Fässler
Love it

Cristian A
Nice, taking a seat

Mr D
Coming along nicely, like the extra touches you have done, HB can simplify a bit.
I just purchased the Zvezda Mi-8, will be my first helli.
Top stuff will keep an 👀 on this build.
😀👍👍

servalpe
Thanks guys for your comments and likes. @Mr D, I will build, HB Mi-8MT next year, but I will mix with part of Zvezda 7253 (Mi-8MT) if I find one 😉.

Mr D
I know there running a bit short on them at min, l found my one on Amazon... being sent from Germany, l think it's maybe some kind of trade sanction going on with Zvezda being in Russia??
Good luck with your build 😀👍

servalpe
@Mr D, I found one on an Spanish website and I am going pick up it today 😉. I have also got some aftermarkets from an Spanish scalemate.

Mr D
Great 😃👍
Servalpe, My Mi-8 arrived today, looks really good, box is big for 1:72.
I have a Diorama in mind 🤔.
Good luck.

servalpe
@Mr D, the box is the Zvezda small one. The HB kit is better than Zvezda one. It's has more accurated, has detailed external parts and cockpit. The advantages of Zvezda is that has seats and doors for cargo cabin and weapons supports ( I will use this parts) and has raised rivers. HB model has not any rivet.

servalpe
Mr D, the box is the Zvezda small one. The HB kit is better than Zvezda one. It's more accurated, has detailed external parts and cockpit. The advantages of Zvezda is that has seats and doors for cargo cabin and weapons supports ( I will use this parts) and has raised rivets. HB model has not any rivet.

Mr D
Hi Servalpe,
Ok thanks, sounds like you can make one good one out the two kits ?
I was considering the HB one but l liked the idea of the kit being from Russia for my planed Diorama... I'm going to do a Chernobyl disaster Diorama, with the Mi-8 dropping the sand n lead bags on the damaged core.
There is a guy on eBay selling the 3d printed damaged power station.
It will be view looking down from Mi-8 as station is small.
Some UV led's be nice for the core.
The Blackhawk is looking really good 👍👍
I'm build the HB IAR-80 at min, it's been ok build so far. Instructions bit weak !! But nothing that isn't obvious. If lm ever unsure l watch YouTube vids
Thanks for the advice n good to hear about you ideas for your mi-8 build 👋😃👍

servalpe
@Mr D I have added a new project with Mi-8

Nicolas
Looks goog. 👍