Reference pics for 962

Stephan H.
Nice topic. I used the same decals on the same kit here:
wettringer-modellbau..56909&highlight=
As you see in the reference, the color of the stripes is not correct in the decals - black instead of green. I was too lazy to correct this, but I still like the result. Good luck with yours!

J Zero
Thanks for the encouragement - I hope mine turns out half as well as yours! (I also wish my German was half as good as your English.) I was lucky enough to see these cars race several times and especially remember the Holbert 14 as the most beautiful on the track. Pretty sure I've got some photos but too lazy to dig thru them so far. Would have preferred that livery but couldn't find the decals, just the picture that's too low resolution to blow up (tho I suppose it wouldn't be terribly difficult to adapt the ones I have, which are the 67 car Daytona 24 winner). I hope it's ok if I ask you some questions once I get into it.

Stephan H.
Questions are always welcome - I guess that´s the point of a networt like this here. As you can see from the pictures my 962 is not "historically correct". It misses the IMSA air intakes and the correct side mirrows. I found a link that collects information on 962 IMSA models and how to correct/add missing stuff:

robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/962a.htm

As far as the german comments in the forum post: I had trouble with fitting the chassis and the body. I don´t know what I did wrong since I never read anyone complaining about the tamiya kit. But I had to trim alot of plastic from the chassis front to get a good fit with the body. You should definitely make some fitting tests before painting the chassis. The other selfmade issue I had was trouble when airbrushing too thick future clear (acrylic floor coating) over not 100% dry Alclad 2 Gold.

J Zero
Thanks for the tips Stephan. My model will be far from accurate as well, but just enough to convey the general spirit of the car I remember. To that end I purchased a resin add on for the roof air scoop.
The more I get into the planning stages the more I appreciate your accomplishment. I've got a couple of simple (I hope) questions about painting.
1. Did you prime & if so, what color? Both your white & gold look good. Supposedly gloss black primer is best for metallic paints, but I'm guessing not so good for white (tho I did a test & it worked OK for me).
2. Do you do any pre treatment of the plastic before priming? I washed the chassis pieces thoroughly (I thought) and was very careful not to handle with bare hands but I still had pull ups when removing tape after masking for other colors. Maybe I didn't let the primer cure long enough - it was only overnight.
3. In what order did you paint the gold & white? And how did you mask? I'm very concerned about masking over the vallejo metallic gold I'm planning to use, though in my tests the problem was more with the primer.

Stephan H.
Hi. Here is my painting order, as far as I remember:
Prep: Simply washing with water and one drop of soap/dish detergent.
1. Alclad II White Primer & Microfiller over all - drying time never less than 48h
2. Vallejo Air White (I believe it is semigloss) over all - at least 24h drying
3. masking the white parts with standard tamiya tape
4. Alclad II Gloss Black Base - 24h
5. Alclad II Gold - 24h
6. Unmask
7. (too thick) Future clear coat

I did not test Gold over white, but all Alclad colors look great over black gloss in my mind. And I learned to allow the colors they drying times the hard way in earlier projects 🙂. On my Loire 130 plane I used Vallejo metallic the first time next to Alclad and I did not see any different behavior.
Good luck

J Zero
Thanks again. Will definitely allow more drying time for primer. I was thinking about the same basic plan, but had not considered gloss black base over white and under gold. I might skip that step, but will test first. Agree though about black gloss base under metallic, in my very limited experience.

My main conundrum now is what to do about the decals. I couldn't find anybody selling the #14 set you used, so I settled on #67 except it doesn't have stripes. So I have to decide how I want to do the stripes and whether I want to do custom #14 decals.

Which leads to my final question (I hope). How did you measure or define the white areas, especially on the front with the non-square angle, so that the stripe decals had the perfectly consistent white border outside the stripes?

Stephan H.
You´re welcome. I had to look through older pictures to answer your question. Actually the painting order I wrote before is wrong/not complete. After painting white I added the decals that had white background and sealed them with future clear. After that step I did steps 3 - masking along the black lines - and the following steps.

I bought my decals at bestbalsakits.com - current status: backordered. 🤔

While looking for the decals sheet I found an accurate but lazy alternative, in case painting goes south completely 😉 :
slotmanni.de/shop/pr...php?products_id=556

J Zero
Hahaha! That slot body sure would save me some time!
Thank you for your efforts. You've gone above & beyond. I guess I'll press ahead with making my own stripes and #14s decals. Though I've considered switching to Lowenbrau #14. Ebay.com Item - 1985 Lowenbrau Al Holbert Porsche 962 1 24 scale decals Tamiya Hasegawa Revell . Also a really sharp looking car and would be incredibly easier.
So you painted gold over future and then future over that, on top of primer & white. I would have been concerned about the thickness of that many coating layers, but your photos look really good.
Did you trim the decals a consistent 1 mm beyond the stripes and align the tape with the decal edge? That seems quite a challenge to tape over an edge you can't see because the tape is in the way of your vision.
By the way, I added the resin roof scoop yesterday and smoothed the edges with perfect plastic putty. My first time working with ppp, but I think it turned out pretty well.
Also I've ordered a couple more kits so I have something to do while my paint is drying (and waiting for my Lowenbrau decals to arrive...)

Stephan H.
When I seal decals I try use one very thin layer. I am just too scared to destroy the decals if I dont seal them 🙂 . Regarding the masking of the stripes I looked closely to the model since I really cant remember how I did it. But it looks like I trimmed the decals very close to the blackstripes not leaving any decal film (not sure if "film" is the correct term - you know the transparent part ). The white gap between decal and gold surface is not consistent over the whole model, but thats hard to see since the human eye has alot of auto-correction 🙂 e.g. on the hood I almost painted gold over the frontmost edge of the decal. But I do have 0.5mm masking tape for tricky stuff like this - maybe I used there already - not sure when I bought it. Looking forward to see a picture or two 🙂

J Zero
Yes that all makes sense. Very thin masking tape could be the answer, tho I bet very tricky to apply. Another approach would be to mask inside the stripe and then apply another tape outside and adjacent to that one which is the width of the stripe plus the width of the desired white space. The first tape is just a guide to help position the 2nd one. Alot of effort but might be easier in the long run.
I might start posting some "in progress" pics, since the finished project is pretty far off. The diy stripes & numbers could require quite a bit of trial & error. I've been toying with the idea of just painting some very thin tape that matches the stripe width, which if I recall is about 1.5 mm or about 1/16 inch. But that would present its own set of difficulties. Maybe worse than making my own decals.
Thanks again for your kindness & encouragement.

Stephan H.
You´re welcome. Fingers crossed.