P-47D Thunderbolt | Força Aérea Portuguesa (FAP)
This I believe is from War Thunder or some other online video game. I’m not putting much stock I in it as a reference but it sure is dramatic?
I think I got everything I need. All the sprues are inspected and cleaned. Not seen in the picture is a few online images I will use for reference.
I will be using the USAF painting guide on the left. It’s bare metal so not too much to reference other than a little paint and stencil placements.
The tiny sheet of replacement decals acquired to transform this big bird into a FAP operated aircraft. They were not expensive as far as decals go but they are limited to marking out one aircraft as either 4434 or 4446. Their are no stencils but I will reuse the kits decals and hope I get it right. They seem nice and thin and generally good quality colour and such, but the tail flashes are out of register. ?
The instructions of the aftermarket decals are nearly useless. They are poorly printed on a small single-sided piece of paper no more than 50 by 100 mm. Even with magnifying glass they are useless because the print resolution is poor or smudged.
The canopy looks good. No scratches, bubbles, or significant optical aberrations. It’s also a two piece which thankfully will allow it to be posed open to allow better viewing of the interior.
I should not be surprised that there is no sprue ‘A’ in this kit. It starts with B which holds the fuselage halves and some other bits. Academy has other P-47 kits which must share components. Anyway, the details is good for this scale with fine recessed rivets and panel lines. However, many of the details are very fine and I will have to be careful to avoid laying on the paint too thick.
Sprue ‘C’ has the elevators, external stores, cockpit details, and engine cowling and propellers. There is a choice of prop depending if you’re building USAF P-47D-25-RE or the RAF Thunderbolt Mk.II. As I am building neither I will have to research what the a Portuguese P-47D-30-RE sported.
Sprue ‘D’ holds the landing gear doors, the rotary engine halves, some more external stores, and the all important wings. As mentioned before, lots of great detail but I will have to be careful with the paint to not hide it all.
Engine detail looks good. A little soft but it better than nothing considering the cowling is a relatively big opening and one should be able to se right inside.
The instrument panel is fairly good at this scale. I should be able to turn out a better result than my last one , which was one of the best parts of the kit LOL ?
Nice exhaust vent detail. The side wall is a little thick so I think I will try thinning it. The opening is less than a millimetre wide so thinning the side wall will be tricky but not impossible.
Good detail in the wheel well. I think it’s going to be zinc chromate green, but I have seen a few Thunderbolts in yellow, so I may have to research further what the FAP used. Also thinking I may open up those spent casing ejection ports it’s tricky but it worked out well on my Hurricane project and looks great.
Simple six piece cockpit.
Sprayed some interior green and will be painting the nice detail the kit provides. I will not be going into too much care and attention as judging from the side wall curve the detail will not be visible.
I was lazy and didn’t want to dirty the airbrush for this single part, so I brush painted and it look terrible ?
I decided to spray after all. and the result is a bit better.
Test fitting the fuselage halves I realize that I will still be able see the cockpit sidewall detail so I will put in a effort at detail painting. ?
Most of the engine assembled. I think it's not too bad for a 1:72 budget kit. I think with a little cleanup and a good paint and weathering it will look good.
This dental instrument is perfect for cleaning up the supercharger exhausts and both widening the aperture and thinning the sidewall a bit.
I’m trying to keep to a simple straightforward build, but I could resist the opportunity make small improvements like drilling out the waste gas exhaust ports. The danger being messing the kit.
I have to admit that Vallejo Air Dark Aluminium does make a nice base.
I found it pretty hard to spray the interior of the engine cowling. Getting an even coat without overspray was impossible.
The cockpit wasn’t much to do. Boring really. I did my best to give it the lived in look ?
I think I’m getting a bit better with the instrument panel. The rest of the plane is questionable ?
Cockpit fully assembled. Looks ok, but overall a poor rendition of the real thing. My skills certainly didn’t help much.
Sidewall details painted and weathered, but I’m not happy with it. My hands were very shaky last night and I struggled to ‘colour within the lines’ ?
Tried to clean up the details and weather again but I don’t think it’s any better ?
May be a little too much wear and tear.
I’m glad I put in the effort on the interior sidewall because it looks like I will be able to see my handiwork afterall
Now that I know the interior detail can be be seen, I’m definitely leaving the canopy open.
Got the cockpit in and the fuselage sealed up. It was an easy fit and there are no glaring alignment issues ?
All he major subassemblies are together now. There was some shift overnight in the fuselage and now I have a significant alignment issue on the belly that will require attention.
When I did a test fit, I found the cowl didn’t have the same shape as the forward fuselage, so I have had in a clamp for a couple of days to coax it a bit ?
I spent some time and thinned the cowl considerably.
Generally a good fit once cemented together. I did have to do some sanding due to an alignment mistake I made where the port side was a fraction of a millimetre offset vertically from the starboard side. ?
While waiting for other subassemblies and parts to dry or cure, I turned my attention to the gear doors to test the paint I will use. I sprayed two light coats of Vallejo Aluminum and it looks ok, but still has a bit of texture to it ?
I have been brush painting the wheels after spraying the tire rubber with generally good results. But it does take patience and a steady hand. I only have patience; nothing steady about me. I don’t want to spend money on masks so I’m trying a liquid mask. In this case two large drops of Vallejo Liquid Mask have been allowed to settle onto the wheel hub. Hope it works ?
I had to do a lot of adjustments to get the wings to fit together properly. In the end they still had problems like the attachment tabs to the right of the wheel well.
Oops I forgot to consider that the remainder of the wheel well was situated in the fuselage halves
Terrible fit at the wing root.
Ya that’s pretty bad. Going to have roll up my sleeves and get busy.
Ok that looks about right
Yup...still looks about right
The kit comes with 2 different drop tanks. I've a few of photos of foreign service Thunderbolts, so I may go with this one, unless I find a reference that indicates which one was actually used.
Sanding the seam for the fuselage halves obliterated the panels lines, so I tried scribing them. It's my first time scribing and it turned out fairly good considering I didn't have a guide to follow and I used a dental tool
Did some more scribing. I think I'm getting a bit better at it, but that slip near the antenna hole is driving me crazy. Must be more careful.
Back to painting, or preparing for painting. have to admit that that Model Master Yellow Zinc Chromate is really nice. Goes on easy at a 1:1 ratio paint to thinner under ~100 kPa with a nice smooth finish; i.e., no darn texture 🙂
Alignment looks good ?
I'm glad I put in the effort to thin and shape the cowls' panels. During the test fitting I found it did not have the right shape of the fuselage and in two places the cowl's panels touched the fuselage . I think it look fairly good now.
I was trying to figure out what this part if for. It's nowhere in the instructions, and the parts list does not say it is not used. Not being familiar with the P-47 I have been studying online photos and last night I spotted it finally. It's a support for the bubble canopy that rides a rail behind the cockpit! The kit and instructions are not bad, but they are not good either.
Started tinkering with the rocket launchers. Not bad for my first attempt. Hope I don’t screw up the other one.
Opted for a wider drill bit. Much better now. Time to do the other launcher.
OMG no! No no no no noooooo! ?
Ordinance painted. But, I faked the olive drab, because I didn't have it in my paints. What kind of modeller doesn't have OD in their paint stores!
Masking was a bit of a pain. It's the part of the project I don't like. I'm guessing it's probably a little easier and more satisfying on a larger scale.
First coat of Vallejo Aluminium applied. The details and panel lines are so shallow that I was afraid sanding and paint would hide them. So I scribed the worst ones and also decided to not prime. Instead I am only laying down an initial Aluminium coat, shading then a final coat.
Can’t pre-shade with airbrush. It’s sputtering. Not sure if it’s the pressure or the paint. So I laid down panel liner instead.
Time let everything dry. It’s looking ok I guess, but I’m not sure how it’s going to turn out when I lay down that second coat over the panel liner.
Final Aluminium coat. Not liking it. Looks grey. Not a natural metal finish. ?
After a few day the clear coat is dry and I started to pull off the masking….nice and slowly.
I really don’t like the texture I get with my airbrush/paint. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. I’m trying different things and on this kit I skipped a primer coat and applied two coats of Vallejo Aluminium with polishing in between and then a Vallejo gloss varnish using a 0.5 Badger air brush at about 15 psi
Turned my attention to the ‘accessories’ and tried out painting the yellow bands on the bombs. Studied a bunch of photos online and settled on two wide band. Not exactly accurate but this is about the plane, not the bomb ?
The landing gear is fairly easy on this kit. Some paint. Some glue. Voila!
The rockets are complete: assembly was simple but filing and sanding was necessary because of seams but tricky to not lose detail. I’m glad I bored-out the ends; looks much better. The colour if off because I used the wrong ‘olive’ but I’m not changing that now.
Ok all the ‘accessories’ are assembled, sanded, and painted. Time to move back to the main attraction for decals
Nearly forgot about the canopy. There’s only one so I don’t want to mess it up. Gave it a dip in the Future/Pledge/etc. and put it aside in the safe dust free place.
There are quite a few imperfections, not only the relatively thick plastic. However, it's still way better than a few that I have seen in my collection. I think another dip in the Future/Pledge/etc., should help.
The paint has had a couple of days to dry and I'm ready to decal. On the left is the Santa Cruz decal sheet in 1:72 portraying a Força Aérea Portuguesa P-47D-30-RE based in Tancos c.1955. On the right is the kits's original decal sheet which I'm going to use some stencils from.
Started with the propellor laying down decals, only to realize I chose the wrong prop. I prepared and painted the prop for the RAF Thunderbolt Mk.II 🙁 I don't have good references, but I'm pretty sure the Portuguese F-47 are American, so they should have the other prop.
Marking is well underway now. The Santa Cruz decals are not too bad in thickness, colour, and register (with one minor exception). What is surprising is that it takes a little over a minute for them to come away from the carrier paper. They are settling nicely into panel lines and details, with a little help from decal setting solution ?
Still applying decals. My references are poor and the Santa Cruz instructions are even worse, so I am using some pictures of a previous build online to guide placements.
As mentioned by @Bruce Huxtable, once I started to apply decals the paint looked so much better ?
Now that I have started to apply the Santa Cruz decals, I see that they are actually quite good ?
It’s starting to look like an airplane ?
The two different decal sheets were no problem at all and now the Aluminium looks a bit more like metal
Test fitting the propeller. The shaft is a bit short, so the prop rests against the engine cowl. I make have to rig and glue on an extension to the shaft so the propeller is moved forward a fraction of a millimetre so it spins freely.
Time to get down and dirty with a moderate wash of black soft pastel…
It always freaks me out a bit when I do this but the effect is worth it.
After cleaning up the pastel wash, the finish looks great IMO. What looked like silver grey paint on plastic now looks metallic. It has a nice lustrous gleam that contrasts well with the decals and trim paint.
Yes, I’m happy with the NMF now. However now I’m seeing lots of imperfections and touching up is needed.
I missed this little detail in my dry fitting. The hole for the antenna mast is too far forward therefore the canopy can not be posed fully open, or this version of the Jug is designed for very thin pilots ?
Turned my attention to doing the proper propellor, after having prepared the RAF Thunderbolt Mk.II prop by mistake. This time I took some advice from a couple of scalemates and applied the paint at twice the pressure I normal spray at, and the result was much better indeed with a much smooth finish.
Started the weathering only to realize I forgot the black patch on the supercharger exhaust panel.
Big difference in the paint texture.
I like the shape and look of the RAF propeller but I’m going with the USAF prop - I did a better job of painting it and of course it’s more accurate.
So the tip of the canopy is where I have to move the hole for a proper open bubble top. Crossing my finger I don’t mess it up.
Landing gear done. No weathering yet but I think I will do that after attaching to kit
I moved the antenna mast hole. Good. However my fill of the original hole did not workout. I see now that the putty sank a bit and that I didn’t sand it well.
Detailed some contrasting gun panels and the panels lines on the roundels were also emphasized
Spent sometime last night tweaking the decal panel lines so they look painted on and more realistic. I’m very happy with the results.
Christmas came early this year!
I think I am satisfied with the NMF
Looks ok from this side as well. I see lots of blemishes to touch up.
Final assembly
Replacement prop completed.
I got a much better finish this time around.
Kommentit
44 16 October 2021, 23:30
RuiThanks for taking an interest and following the project 😁
@Gary Kitchen a big THANKS for the link; really helpful. 👍
21 October 2021, 05:48
RuiI still have a lot of work ahead before closing up the fuselage and preparing for paint but I can't help thinking about what to use for the natural bare metal finish. I have been studying many online images and sometimes the metal looks bright like a silver and other times it looks darker like a metallic grey. Anyone have any advice on which way I should go…?
23 October 2021, 06:44
Łukasz GlińskiMy proposal would be the preshading and very thin silver layer on top. That's my plan for my Thunderjet.
23 October 2021, 10:01
RuiNope… didn't know that history behind the changes behind the the brand change nor about the document destruction. These stories are always so fascinating and add depth to the rich history of aviation. Thanks.
As for the paint I think I'm am going with a brighter metallic. I tested all my metals last night and the Vallejo Aluminium seems to come out nice and bright, but more importantly it's smoooooth.
Another thing I was thinking about the base primer colour. I noted that many builders do a black primer then the metallic. Oddly enough the few resources I have read/watched do not go into the significance of using black.
23 October 2021, 16:55
Łukasz GlińskiBlack pirmer is tricky. I'm not convinced by this idea, tried it once and it came out too dark (take a look at the close-ups):
Polish MiG-15bis "346" | Album by Woody (1:72)
23 October 2021, 17:09
Łukasz GlińskiThanks, though too dark. I think the black primer might work for bright and solid paints, Alclads being too translucent.
23 October 2021, 17:30
Murad ÖZERfor the record:
alclad or any other similar metallizer do NOT need black primer, they need GLOSS black primer. higher the gloss the better end result would be.
there is a very clear distinction here: the surface being as smooth as possible for the upcoming NMF and that's really the whole point, not the color. black pigmented enamel based gloss paints were the only suitable one for eons (since they took noticeably longer to completely/properly cure compared to flat enamels = lot more time to self level), and it stuck as a legend. not that it's wrong but there are other alternatives/options nowadays.
IF you are so inclined, you could also use a plain clear gloss thinned with some kind of a retarder/levelling thinner for max effect.
OR simply take up fine sanding/polishing pads.
OR use some sort of polishing compound (if you are using automotive products make sure it is NONE silicone!) with a electric mini motor to polish the bare plastic, then apply the nmf.
OR do a combo with these options, you have the plastic in front of you, you decide what it needs and how much. led lamp on your cell phone would usually reveal any imperfection of the plastic itself (due to subpar quality/ not polished enough metal molds especially visible around compound curves) quite easily.
NMF is all about surface prep. if the plastic is *hitty to begin with, no amount of gloss paint would help, modeller has to go in gung-ho style with abrasives and compounds and ensure the surface is smooth. hope it makes sense. 🙂
25 October 2021, 22:33
RuiWow…thanks for that Murad. Great feedback. I was reluctant to put a primer on because my first NMF project had a terrible texture from the primer, even after I sanded. I never thought of a gloss to smooth thinks out.
I have the main components cemented tighter now and finished sanding and moved on to polishing. I greeting a nice smooth finish with super fine grit paper and finishing with a coffee filter of all things. I's looking smoooooooooooth 👍
25 October 2021, 23:53
RuiThanks John. It's coming along slooowly. Not enough time in the day for life and the important stuff, like modeling 😄
5 November 2021, 00:47
RuiI was reviewing the comments to see if I had missed anyone's and I read my own! I have to stop using my iPhone to post comments. They are terribly written. Almost don't make sense either.
5 November 2021, 03:20
Łukasz GlińskiWasn't it you, who wrote about us being our own loudest critics? 😉
5 November 2021, 07:41
Bruce HuxtableLooking very respectable IMHO, Rui. Perhaps when decals are added that will add contrast and emphasise the metallic more?
8 November 2021, 19:40
RuiThanks Bruce. I'm thinking of polishing the paint be fore glass and decals to smooth it out and hopefully bring out a more metallic shine. Should help the decals sit too.
8 November 2021, 19:43
RuiI have started to apply the after market decals and they are as I suspected a little thick. In fact, they have to soak more than a minute before they will come loose from the paper. Also, the natal flag colours for the tail have to be trimmed because they are out of register. Other than that, the colours are good.
17 November 2021, 03:47
Rui@Bruce Huxtable - you are right. As soon as the first couple of decals went on the dull metallic paint contrasted well, especially with the yellow and the reds.
17 November 2021, 04:28
Rui@Bruce Huxtable - you are right. As soon as the first couple of decals went on the dull metallic paint contrasted well, especially with the yellow and the reds.
17 November 2021, 04:40
Maxim MalparteAh, The notorious non-sticking-stickers from Academy. Would you mind me asking how does this one go Mr. Da silva?
P.S. About the metal finish:
If 'mirror finish' is what you've been looking for, Mr. Hobby's 'Super Metallic2' series could be a good choice (lacquer only, however, sadly). Very fine particles. Very few airbrush malfunctions. Easy to use. Works fine on me.
SM206 was applied on my little Vamp as the base coat, too shiny, I even had to give it another layer of Xtreme Metal AK aluminum later to dull it down.
17 November 2021, 05:36
Rui@MaxtheTinwoodman - thanks for the pointers. I find Mr Hobby or any Mr products hard to get locally, but I have started to see some. starting to come in at one of my LHS.For a NMF I'm not necessarily looking for mirror finish but I would at least like it to look metallic.
I switched from Tamiya Aluminium and other metallics to Vallejo because I saw some impressive results with the Aluminium and Dark Aluminium. I really want to stick with acrylics for most paint work and resort to oil, etc for details.
What I think is the problem may be my Air Brush choice. I have been using a 0.5 Badger for larger areas, a 0.3 Iwata for smaller areas, and a cheap 0.3 nonane knock-off that came with the compressor for details (it performs as well as the Iwata and the trigger control is really nice - I get nice thin lines with it.).
What I have been noticing is the 0.3 don't leave a heavy texture like the 0.5, so on my next project I'm. going to try using the 0.3 exclusively. Fingers crossed.
BTW - I found the Academy decals to be relatively thin with good colour and registration. I thought they were relatively good at sticking for the larger decals, but the tiny stencils needed help. 🙂
17 November 2021, 07:31
Murad ÖZERRui regarding the shot with the prop, it looks like the gloss is acting there with the texture, right? if i'm correct next time about double the psi if your compressor can handle, use a smaller airbrush and most importantly NEVER go wet with vallejos.
open the airbrush trigger barely and go in misty coats in very fast moves, this is the reason why you need to double the psi, vallejo type paints can bead up very easily on the surface if there is no sufficient pressure, downside is that you have to keep the aperture very tight and movement fast so that you don't flood the surface with the gloss clear.
besides, i do have a badger 175 and the amount of air it needs to properly atomize the paint is very high compared to any other airbrush i own. it's very useful for laying down lacquer type paints since they are best applied wet and can be operated with high pressure if you get what i mean. i don't know about your model but compare the body of your badger to your other airbrushes, you'll probably notice that the badger is more thick = needs more air volume passing inside.
also depending on the humidity of your environment you might wanna use their flow improver or something similar in terms of paint retarder (~5% of the total mix), really helps with avoiding these kinda results.
17 November 2021, 07:49
Maxim Malparte@Rui Point taken, no problem. Metallic paints are always a bit tricky to use. I usually get that kind of finish with Tamiya paints sprayed over-pressure, which is why I tried to recommend another kind of paint. But I hope that you're right. (Btw, I had been trying to switch to all-acrylic too, but ended up kind of like quitting smoking. Always been trying, never succeeded. )
And please forgive my offense against Acadamy, Just to double-check that they are ready to use OOB. I had issues using them to build an Apache A when I was a kiddo. I saw the base has been changed, but still 'made in Korea'. I am having my chin in hand towards some of their kits that lack the Italian lux. Think I can press the 'Purchase' button now thanks to your positive reply.
17 November 2021, 11:28
Bruce HuxtableShe's coming together really nicely, Rui - the decals and metallic paint look great 🙂
18 November 2021, 08:21
RuiA big THANKS to @Murad ÖZER and @MaxtheTinwoodman for the tips. I did some over pressure spray testes last night and the results were good. It's too late with this project overall, but I have decided to do the other propeller so I'm hoping the tips provided will net better results (I prepared the wrong propeller so the opportunity presented itself)
18 November 2021, 19:39
RuiMaking good progress tonight on the correct propellor andshould have the landing gear detailed as well. If time permits I will be cleaning up the black wash and hope to see improvments in the NMF look.
20 November 2021, 06:14
Rui@Erik De Smet - yes, this kit is not very good. I picked it because it had a good level of detail overall. The fit is good and required little filling but did require lots of sanding because of alignment issues. Also a few of the parts do not have any guide holes or points, eg. you have to estimate how to align the cowling with the fuselage, or how the gear doors should sit, etc. finally there are some accuracy issues here and there, which are not a concern for me, but my biggest issue is the the antenna mast hole on the dorsal spin is too far forward and does not allow the canopy to be posed in a fully open position. Makes me wonder if they even test built the kit.
21 November 2021, 20:18
Bruce HuxtableThe pastel wash has added lots to the final appearance. great job well done 👍🙂
21 November 2021, 20:47
Charlie Spitfirelove the detail so far looks like has been through the whole second world war
21 November 2021, 22:43
Moreno BaruffiniHi Rui, could you explain how to do a pastel wash like yours? What products do you use? Really a great job!!!!!
22 November 2021, 21:05
Bruce HuxtableWhat a difference between the two props' paint texture. You must be delighted with your new knowledge and positive experience. I've really enjoyed looking through your album again - great work Rui 🙂👍👍
22 November 2021, 22:28
Rui@Moreno Baruffini - The pastel wash is also called a sludge wash. I remind myself its a [soft] pastel wash because using oil pastel would bea disater LOL.
Anyway, I bought a small pack of grayscale soft pastels (black through to white) and I shave off about half a teaspoon of very fine powder into a small cup, add distilled water (the water is very hard where I live), and a tiny drop of dish detergent). Give it a really good mix with a brush and it turns to a thin blackish sludge.
Application is easy, just brush it on a previously varnished model, letting the back sludge get into the all the panel lines and such. Let it dry and then wipe with a damp papper towel. It's messy and it takes a while to clean up, but the results are impressive.
I got the idea and learned the technique from watching a few YouTube videos...
Youtube Video
Thanks for the compliment and good luck with your projects 👍
23 November 2021, 06:24
Rui@Bruce Huxtable - Yes, I am very delight with the result. In fact, I am really happy with the community on scalemates. Everyone is so supportive and provides great advice. I thank you and everyone who has supported the few projects I have done so far. With the tips and tricks I have learned from everyone I have seen a significant increase in the quality of my projects. I'm going to post A side by side comparison...
P-47D Thunderbolt | Força Aérea Portuguesa (FAP) | Album by GrenadeBait (1:72)
23 November 2021, 06:37
Rui@charlie whitten - it is a pity. I haven't taken pictures yet, but I have drilled new antenna mast hole a few millimetres further back on the spine and filled the old hole. Hopefully I will be able to blend the paint adequately enough to hide blemish. After this is done, the canopy will fully retract enough so that even fat pilots can get into the cockpit 🙂
24 November 2021, 00:54
Maxim MalparteThe last one reminds me of pictures showing T-bolts over the cloud doing escort. Looks pretty. Congrats in advance. (PS. Didn't know that they were in RAF service too.)
3 December 2021, 09:12
RuiThanks. I also didn't know too much about the Thunderbolts service record other than they built a heck of a lot of them and it was a big bird. Once I started researching it in Portuguese service I started too see that it was widely exported and the Academy kit I chose just happened to have parts and markings for an RAF variant.
What I was fascinated by was a story about it the lend-lease program to Russia included P-47s. It seems the Russians felt it was not a fighter, but appreciated the spacious cockpit, which I now understand is one the most cavernous fight cockpits for the war. In fact they way they described it makes me think you could get out of the seat and walk around LOL 😃
4 December 2021, 01:03
Guy RumpThe decals were worth the painstaking work Rui, they look brilliant. 👍
4 December 2021, 08:03
Maxim MalparteThe cockpit was also suspiciously roomy in the Airfix Sabre I started years ago. Must be a trait heritable. P.S. With that description. I can't help imagining soviet doge pilots squat dancing in the cockpit while shooting down Dorniers one by one, so darn hilarious. XDD (Probably heavily influenced by this. Youtube Video)
4 December 2021, 08:17
Charlie Spitfirestill working on it i have a friend that has this kit but i think you beat him hands down i salute you sir
28 January 2022, 04:10
RuiThanks Charlie. Much appreciated. I have a few finishing touches to put on it and still waiting for some Mig Ammo Rigging line to finish the antenna mast. Will be posting some fish glamour pics of the Jug on the 'runway' and 'in various poses. Just need free time. Cheers!
28 January 2022, 04:17
Album info
F-47D-30-RE of Esquadrão 10, Força Aérea Portuguesa (FAP) at Base Aérea 3, Tancos c.1955
