BMW M6 GT3 Playstation (Job Log)
Engraved the panel line, clear the gate and polishing the surface with sandpaper.
This kit is a variant kit derived from a vehicle that does not have a slit above the fender, so I will need to cut off the marked area and attach a separate slit part.
If I cut it as indicated in the kit and put the slit part on it, the step will be too big and it will be awkward.
I need to cut it as much as the line drawn in the image on the left, so that it fits exactly like the one on the right. (The condition on the right also needs to be trimmed a bit to fit perfectly)
Start painting other parts
I expected the wheel to be gunmetal, but it was specified as metal black, so I did as instructed.
Because the body color is metallic, there is no need to prevent light transmission, but when assembling the exterior parts, if the area connected to the exterior parts are not painted, white will be visible, so I painted them black in advance.
I tried to use 'Number 5' paint for the body color.
I thought it was metallic paint, but when I tried to use it, it looked like clear paint for overcoating.
1. Overcoated over white plastic.
2. Overcoated over glossy black.
It wasn't the color I was expecting at all.
I thought it was metallic paint, but when I tried to use it, it looked like clear paint for overcoating.
1. Overcoated over white plastic.
2. Overcoated over glossy black.
It wasn't the color I was expecting at all.
The color I wanted was like this...
I had no choice but to make a custom color.
1a: I tried the same color one more time on '1'.
2: Same '2'.
3: Overcoated on gunmetal.
4: Overcoated on silver.
1a: I tried the same color one more time on '1'.
2: Same '2'.
3: Overcoated on gunmetal.
4: Overcoated on silver.
4a: On top of 4, overcoated 'Clear Cobalt Blue'
Exactly the color I wanted. ?
Exactly the color I wanted. ?
1st. Painted 'Silver'
2nd. Overcoated 'Number 5' paint.
3rd. Overcoated 'Clear Cobalt Blue'
The black at the bottom is composed of decals, but in this case, it is much easier to paint.
Done.
The metallic stripes have a very nice texture.
But, the work was difficult because there was no reaction to the softner or hand dryer, and it took 2 hours to attach it.
But, the work was difficult because there was no reaction to the softner or hand dryer, and it took 2 hours to attach it.
I don't usually fix the mil pin marks, but it was a part that was visible from the outside. (In addition, it was the location where the decal would be attached)
Separately S.K decals and basic decals were cut and mixed and attached.
All decal work is done.
Gloss clear coat.
Color in natural light.
Because it is an overcoated color, the color change is large depending on the lighting.
Because it is an overcoated color, the color change is large depending on the lighting.
Sanding.
I lost 'Y'.
So I drew with a brush. ?
So I drew with a brush. ?
I should have painted the panel-line before sanding, but I forgot, so only the area around the panel line was polished with a compound.
Matt clear coat.
Paint with paint brush.
The marked areas do not need to be painted because they are not exposed at all.
The marked areas do not need to be painted because they are not exposed at all.
The satin varnish was coated on the tire decal because it was too glossy.
Ready to assemble.
Start with the manual.
Interior assembled.
It is difficult to assemble the roll cage.
Tip: After attaching the roll cage, remove it from the bathtub, insert the dashboard, and then put the roll cage back into the bathtub and fix it to ensure a clean assembly.
Tip: After attaching the roll cage, remove it from the bathtub, insert the dashboard, and then put the roll cage back into the bathtub and fix it to ensure a clean assembly.
Attach the bathtub, wheels to the bottom plate.
Because the mirror parts have good plating or convex surface expression, there is no need for detail-up.
The headlights also had partial paint point.
Since it's an exterior part, I can't omit it, so I have no choice but to paint it... hahaha
Since it's an exterior part, I can't omit it, so I have no choice but to paint it... hahaha
The slit part on the fender was firmly fixed in advance before the other parts.
Each was assigned a different part number, but it didn't matter.
The lamp cover was attached.
My favorite tool 'Testors clear part adhesive'.
For some reason, the manufacturer is no longer producing it, so I am using it sparingly.
As substitutes, 'Tamiya Multi-Purpose Adhesive' and 'Level contacta clear' were useful, but they were only substitutes.
So I'm eagerly waiting for this product to be produced again.
My favorite tool 'Testors clear part adhesive'.
For some reason, the manufacturer is no longer producing it, so I am using it sparingly.
As substitutes, 'Tamiya Multi-Purpose Adhesive' and 'Level contacta clear' were useful, but they were only substitutes.
So I'm eagerly waiting for this product to be produced again.
Default included nylon mesh.
The bezel of the fog light cover is made with Tamiya marker...
Front bumper done.
Front windshield done.
I also pre-fixed the attachments on the inside of the bodyshell firmly.
Attach wind shield.
To attach the metal decal to the bmw's round emblem, the convex mold in the area must be machined flat.
Attach front, rear bumper.
Pre-assemble wing.
Antenna detail-up.
Metal parts for gunpla modification were used.
Metal parts for gunpla modification were used.
The work of attaching the reflectors of the front and rear lamps from the inside was very stressful because the fixability was not good.
Stick the emblem decal.
And attach rear wing.
I only had to combine the upper and lower plates, but because of the wheels, I couldn't fit them, so I had to separate the wheels again.
If you are thinking of making this kit, we recommend that you assemble the wheels last.
If you are thinking of making this kit, we recommend that you assemble the wheels last.
Finish
Finish
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14 3 June 2022, 06:59
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FHD Images blog Part 1/2 - motorart.tistory.com/473
FHD Images blog Part 2/2 - motorart.tistory.com/474