MARIUPOL _ ZIS-11 _ PMZ-1 _ BMW
1941

Rui S
I'm thinking (long time idea) about filling it with plaster and using the floor and wall pieces back sides as a mold to duplicate the kit. Does anyone know what I should use so that the plaster doesn't stick to the plastic? Any ideas?
Thank you.

Guillaume Blanchet
I have used the Silicone Rubber Technique while in college. Works well, but it's time consuming (like our hobby) and you need to make sure the no air in the mold.

resincraftsblog.com/how-to-make-a-resin-mold/

Rui S
Thank you for your atention and link, Guillaume, but this time I'm really interested in using plaster, I'm just worried that it Will be hard to remove it after it's dry.

Guillaume Blanchet
I would have the same concern. Good luck with your quest. I'm sure there a type of coating out there that will do the job.

Rui S
in the net they say "There are commercial mold release agents available, but people often use Vaseline, liquid hand soap, Pam Cooking Spray, Crisco, Vegetable Oil, liquid soap, or Murphy's Oil Soap."

i'll take some progress photos 😉

René "Lord Bilbo" Bartholemy
If you are sure the positive won't physically block the plaster from coming out, there shouldn't be any problem. Plaster won't normally stick to plastic. I did the same with some vacuformed shell craters without any hitch.
But I strongly suspect that you'll get a much better result by making a mould of the outside of your wall (caulk and potato starch will do the trick very well and cheaply) and then to pour your plaster into the new negative. Miniart's vacuforms are made inside out, so that the outside gets all the details...
Hope this helps! 😉

Rui S
Thank you for your attention, Rene. Apreciate your help.
I'm sure you are right, but I'm not sure if I could do a good work, making molds with caulk and potato starch.
I'm planning just doing it, with simpler and easier stuff that I have, not expecting a final product, but a base to work with in future.

René "Lord Bilbo" Bartholemy
👍