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![1:144 US Navy F/A-18C Hornet VFA-195 Dam Busters Chippy Ho! 2008 (MYK Design A-580) A-580](/products/img/0/7/3/1377073-88042-53-t180.jpg)
US Navy F/A-18C Hornet VFA-195 Dam Busters Chippy Ho! 2008
MYK Design 1:144
A-580 2022 Nouvel outillage 30 July, 16:13
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a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
19 3 April, 07:40
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👀 👍
Oh, I see a printed barrell. Will this be another GuP project or do you plan to make a historic BT-42?
3 April, 07:48
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Thanks. I'm going to do it for GuP, but I don't even have decals for it yet😬. So, the end result will not be soon.
3 April, 08:30
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Nice work on the roadwheels. 👍 Did you manage to get the decals in the meantime? A while ago I could find an abundance of them on eBay for example but now it seems much harder to get GuP or Ace Combat decals.
29 July, 07:35
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Thank you, Robin. The decals arrived almost in the middle of this month. I ordered decals from AliExpress, they are designed for 5 schools. I'm going to update the album for you to see. If you want to order, then I will send you a link to them in the PM, but it is not a fact that it will work for you.
29 July, 15:58
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I found those decals on AliExpress ,without much fuss even without the link, Thank you 👍 for the info Motatim
30 July, 16:12
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a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
29 24 July, 04:57
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Yesterday the A.90 Orlyonok thundered in front, here are a couple of pictures of this event! 🙂 I added a few things to the kit, such as the prominent framework in front of the cockpit, which I built "on sight" with suitable wire. I haven't been able to find out what it's for - aerials, windscreen wipers/cleaning? - but I know that it contributes quite prominently to the appearance. I also added the various aerials on the fuselage and engine.
Thanks again for the hint about the 'ironed' water behind and under the engine, that was an important tip and came in time, thanks to Robert!
24 July, 05:06
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Looks absolutely perfect, Roland! Chapeau bas! (I am happy that I have contributed a bit to this effect 😉 )
24 July, 05:34
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Thank you for your appreciated comments - it is of course very motivating to receive such feedback!
24 July, 18:03
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Thank you very much mates! In fact, the A.90 'floats' on two fine metal rods; I apologise for taking the freedom to wipe them away with the image processing.
25 July, 07:58
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Thank you for your motivating and positive comments! Makes me, well, mighty proud! 🙂
26 July, 14:26
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a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
38 7 July, 08:59
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With these pictures I open the book report on Roden's Junkers D.1: I tried to extend the interior with some steel wire, the seat belts are from Eduard. For the detailing I downloaded the very interesting building instructions from Wingnut Wings for the large D.1 in 1:32, which is quite helpful if you want to have a good documentation as a basis for detailing. I'm also going to realise one of the WW variants, which I immediately liked: all in Dural/ NMF with only a minimal set of markings.
7 July, 09:03
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Watching!
I have done the short fuselage already, I hope one day I can do the long one too.
Is the engine painting finished? I can recommend the WNW manual for this, still available on WNW page.
8 July, 20:44
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Thanks for the tip - it's definitely a good one! The printed WNW instructions are next to me, so I want to use a little oily black on the top of the engine and add a little "brass"... But not only WNW instructions, also your excellent work is my reference.
9 July, 12:35
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The fuselage of the D.1 is now closed, the only thing to be careful of was not to damage the corrugated sheet metal joints. A related issue arises with the leading edges of the wings: in my opinion, the prototype shows a continuous line around the leading edge.... this will be difficult to depict: I will try to get close to this with careful sanding and the same amount of reworking with a scalpel.
11 July, 07:09
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Yes to clean the wing seem is not that esay. I must admit I used also wings from another kit after I was not happy with the first try. I have both the long and short fuselage kits and the wings are the identical. But that shifts the problem only to a later date, when I will build the long one. A new Part PE set is waiting too 🙂
12 July, 16:49
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Thank you for your words, mates! - I completely agree that this is not an easy topic! My approach, which you can see started here, is to work on the front edge of the profile with a triangular file. I didn't even try to bring the corrugated sheet metal runs of the top and bottom together - that would be far too small for me - but simply used the file edge many times.... Well, in my opinion it looks at least a little better now than before, so I'll try to make it a little more precise....
14 July, 08:57
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The Alclad metal colours mercilessly bring out all the flaws and imperfections, especially when everything has already been trimmed to a high gloss in preparation for applying the decals like here! The Wingnut Wings instructions describe an effect called 'tiger stripes' on the wing sheeting, which I recreated using various aluminium and dural colours.
18 July, 11:56
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The stripes are great - can be noticed, but both shades still looks like aluminium which it was.
18 July, 14:53
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Thank you very much, mates!
The opinion on the 'tiger stripes' really really pleases me in a very motivating way!
18 July, 18:15
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Roland, your model looks very good. I really like the interior of the plane and the engine. Also your rendition of the corrugated sheet metal looks very realistic. 👍
20 July, 14:02
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Ludvik, thank you for this comment, giving me a push to get the finishing steps done!
21 July, 06:54
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A few steps closer to a finish: working with Roden decals is always an adventure, happy end not guaranteed! The whole thing is spiced up by the corrugated metal nature.... Well, this is the result; I will of touch up up the unclean parts with a brush, but on the whole it will stay like this - now for the signs of use and wear!
25 July, 08:01
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Thank you! 🙂
The Junkers D.1 is slowly approaching its final appearance - and that didn't work out quite as well as I had imagined! But what the heck, there are some nice things, like the turnbuckles or the two MGs from Gespatch; I'm also happy with the solution for the typical Junkers handles and footrests: a thin, glued-on metal rod was covered with finely cut Tamiya tape as a ridge. Well. I am satisfied with this overall impression.
26 July, 19:22
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As the work progresses, Junkers grows in beauty. Thanks to decals and small details the model looks better. 👍
26 July, 22:09
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The Junkers D.1 from Roden is now finished, in a way my corrugated metal test run for the somewhat larger Junkers F.13 from Mikro Mir. There are enough problem areas - and also a few insights into how I can proceed better with the F.13, but even so I am surprised by the 'photogenicity' of the little fighter from the last days of the First World War! The markings, which are limited to the bar crosses and two '11s' on the rear of the fuselage, come from the Wingnut Wings documents; they show an aircraft from October 1918, i.e. shortly before the end of the war. Remarkable (and also a reason for my choice) are the 'tiger stripes' due to different metal panelling on the wings, which show up in the right light. I hope you like the pictures, I really enjoyed building it!
30 July, 15:36
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Excellent build and photography. It would have taken me months to build this. Nice work
30 July, 16:07
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a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
3 26 July, 21:15
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a terminé cet article
![1:48 Ju 52/3mg4 - BMW 132 Engine Set (CMK 4044) 4044](/products/img/6/1/9/114619-10427-t180.jpg)
Junkers
Ju 52/3mg4 - BMW 132 Engine Set for Revell/Monogram CMK (Czech Master Kits) 1:48
4044 199x Nouvel outillage 30 July, 16:01
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a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
105 images
Focke Wulf Ta 152 H-1 (1970 tooling)![View album, image #105 View album, image #105](/albums/img/5/8/2/1777582-46074-64-720.jpg)
1:72
Second layer of primer down. It is starting to look like a plane!
Projet: Focke-Wulf Ta 152 H
75 27 January, 18:23
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My next big project is turning this FROG into a Prince. Wish me luck I'm going to need it.
27 January, 18:25
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I'm following. In my opinion the Ta-152H is the most beautiful plane of WW II. I got the kit from Kora in my stash and hope to start the build in spring this year. Good luck and, above all, have fun building it.
27 January, 20:18
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Nicolas, I agree. It's a long, lean, fighting machine as they say. Definitely one of the more elegant designs to come out of the war.
27 January, 22:10
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I had to widen the fuselage today, in order to make space, before I scratch build the cockpit.
29 January, 01:47
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this is going to be awsome.
I am picking kits that are near perfect so I have fun.
but there are also people who pick not-so-perfect-kits like this Ta152 and they still have loads of fun!
GL 🙂
31 January, 13:12
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Well mostly I pick not-so-perfect-kits because I'm a cheap skate. I'd rather pay 6 euros than 40 for a kit. I do have some moderately priced kits and they are a lot faster and fun to make, but often I just have the need to challenge myself and see where my skill level is at.
31 January, 17:56
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@Skyhiker: I totally like your approach and I think you did a great start!
31 January, 19:16
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same here @Skyhiker, I really like the 6eur price point. so affordable. probably thats why I started to look into the 1/144 scale 🙂
31 January, 19:58
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Excellent work on the exhausts, and the cockpit is coming along nicely.
2 February, 03:24
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I did a bit more today but I can't seem to get any images to upload. Anyone else having these problems?
2 February, 19:03
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Looking at photo #17 I want to give a tip:
I would be a little careful keeping the roll of masking tape on the table. I like keeping them in a holder, or placed in a bag, to avoid the side of the roll picking up all kind of dirt.
2 February, 19:10
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Yes, I keep my tapes in a bag but it doesn't seem to help as well as it should. I think I need a better bag. When I photograph things at this scale there is more dust than I realize.
2 February, 19:18
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I can finally upload my images again now, I was having problems too.
2 February, 20:13
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Treehugger I cleaned my tape and got a new bag. Thanks for pointing that out. No need for fuzzy tape.
2 February, 20:20
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I have to take a break and will be back in a week. I must say I am in love with this plane. It's really a beautiful design with those long wings. I can't wait to get back to it.
8 February, 06:54
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I'm going to build this one from my stash this year, definitely following! 👍
8 February, 14:14
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The canopy was totally uneven and so I decided to do the risky thing and file it from the inside. Hopefully I didn't just ruin it.
2 March, 13:17
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I have built 70s Tamiya kit - but that was a least workable. The base was there even though many errors. This 'kit' just seems like a waste of time. Like trying to make a dog poop look edible by putting a cherry on top.
If I saw this kit I would stamp it into the ground. Useless
8 April, 20:15
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This kit has its flaws but nothing that can't be corrected with a little bit of skill. Are there more accurate kits out there that are easier to build - yes. But the modern trend of wanting perfect kits seems counter to the art of modeling. If you have ever built a model from a block of wood you wouldn't call this kit useless. Challenging or time consuming I can agree with but it is not crap.
10 April, 08:09
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I agree with your modern trend thesis - especially if you add in the AM factor. But I think there is a line to be crossed between the kit manufacturers chucking out a quick buck kit with no effort in a fancy box (my pet peeve - rebox) etc, and thereby throwing the burden on the modeller and on the other side 'great expectations' along with spewing out bundles of dollars on AM on an already close to perfect kit.
I suppose if you are saying the kit can be built into an accurate replica then the modifications and work are justified.
I do admit that scratch building is the purest form of scale modelling so it depends on one's 'Weltanschaaung' and philosophy.
Anyway it looks like you gave up on it which influenced my previous comment - in other words all that effort bore no fruit
10 April, 11:54
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I haven't given up yet. Sometimes life forces me to take breaks but I hope to get back into this one soon. I have to put a lot of tiny details in the cockpit next and I need the right head space for that. Kits like these take time and often I will start easier kits mid process to keep things flowing. I absolutely agree that reboxing old kits without a mold date is deceptive. Thankfully with this site we can look up the history and sometimes see the sprues before buying anything. I've only had one kit that I couldn't do anything with. I bought it for 20 bucks opened up and threw it directly in the trash. That was a Top Gun F/A-18 Hornet snap kit, which really was a piece of shit.
10 April, 16:03
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lol - hopefully I wont end up with one of those 'open kit open bin' models. I would reconsider throwing in loads of detail in that cockpit because none will be seen - it may be one of those more of a burden - but it is your show.
As I'm just getting into it again I bought several boxes of the 1/72 AZ joy packs - about 20 bucks - 3 kits in a box - although the Gustav set has no stencils the Emil set does but no decals - much easier to deal with. I am using them to practice some skills. (Will post on here soon)
Just to add they are about to bring out AZ Mustang Joy pack - I'm only into German aircraft and armour but it might be for you. I suspect they may bring out another later mustang set
10 April, 17:59
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Following. Really looking forward to the end result.
Especially since I built this kit myself last year. Although I didn't put so much effort and detail into it as you are doing.
10 April, 21:29
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Worked on the canopy and tried to figure out how the scratch built cockpit will fit into the body.
2 May, 23:45
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It's coming along!
From about halfway back on the underside there should be no join line - but forward of halfway you are good which makes things a little easier.
Just an idea but you can download the ZM instructions to get an idea?
6 May, 10:13
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Trez your message is pretty cryptic. Are you talking about panel lines or internal wing structures? The last photo is just a dry fit. I haven't started with dealing with any panel lines yet. I've been working on the inside of the wing walls to make something that gives an impression of space for the wheels.
6 May, 11:45
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Apologies - I meant the external join lines. I can see what you done - it looks good. I thought the ZM instructions would help as a guide
6 May, 12:56
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Trez, thanks for your ideas. I'm using a lot of photos and the instructions from a 1:32 model to help figure out what is going on. This little model is a challenge to correct but I'm having fun pushing my skills and learning as I go.
6 May, 15:36
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I worked out most of the cockpit issues today. It's not perfect but I got it in there.
15 May, 23:09
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Moreno, I'm glad you're liking it. This is kinda pushing my skills a bit. We'll see what happens in the end together.
15 May, 23:11
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Don't worry too much about updates - things like that can cause one to rush. We ain't going away so take your time! 🫡👍
16 May, 00:34
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Getting this kit to accept a cockpit was like pounding a square peg through a round hole. I had to reshape the whole damn fuselage.
16 May, 03:35
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Whoah!!! Amazing what you did to that old tooling! Very cool to watch! 👍🏼
16 May, 15:20
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Really liking what you're doing, Skyhiker, and learning lots too. Impressed with your skills 🙂
16 May, 19:43
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Łukasz the shape of the hood is really off in the kit. The superglue is just material for me to try and sculpt into a better hood.
16 May, 20:26
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No, It's just cheap super glue from a discount store that I poured right from the tube and hardened with accelerator.
16 May, 22:08
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Well the fine engraving blade I just bought broke within a day of use. Very frustrating.
23 May, 14:42
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Luckily I bought a .02 mm blade in addition to the .01 mm that broke. It will have to do even though I would prefer the lines to be a little bit thinner.
23 May, 15:06
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Amazing progress! Once you go the route of updating such an old kit, there's no way back, is there?
24 May, 22:19
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Thanks Patrick, your right there is always more to discover and do. I'm having fun with it. Of course I have no idea what it will look like in the end. I'm spending far too many hours allowing myself to be lost in process. But if that's what it takes, why not?
24 May, 23:19
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It's amazing how every kit I look at of a FW Ta 152 H is different. All the photos of the original aircraft are so blurry that details are impossible to pick out, so I'm left with looking at kits and guessing which ones are correct.
26 May, 01:25
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Anyone out there with a book on the TA 152? I'm trying to figure out if the top of the flaps have a vertical line down the center of them or not. From underneath there is a line there but I am getting conflicting images of the top surface. Can anyone post a decent image?
28 May, 16:28
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I looked through some of my books and picture collection. But to find even a picture of the Ta152 is rare. 🙁
28 May, 17:06
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Thanks Mattes. There are a few decent books out there but they go for 80 Euros and I can't afford that. I doubt the library would have anything worth while. Maybe the model shop will let me look through one of their books but usually they are sealed in foil. Hopefully someone here has something. Getting panel lines correct is not so easy. Even worse are the rivets.
28 May, 17:49
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I found this image which clearly shows the flaps divide in two sections. Interestingly the sections are not even like the underside.
[img1]
29 May, 05:48
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Maybe this would be helpful? flugzeugclassic.de/f..hlands-bester-jaeger
I do not have the magazine, but kind of stumbled over the link 😉
31 May, 13:34
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Thanks Ben, this kit gets a bad rap. It's not as bad as people make it out to be. Of course I am putting a lot of work into it to make it better. But if its done straight out of the box it's not that bad. The backwards propeller is a stupid engineering mistake but that's an easy fix.
31 May, 23:54
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Yeah, I was a little heavy handed, but it's not a problem. I just glued it back together. I prefer trenching and filling over trying to get the lines the exact depth overall and then accidentally sanding away lines. The only problem with using this method is the deep panel lines can make the model unstable in places if you are not careful. But in the end it should all work out.
7 June, 21:47
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I am slowly moving forward on the panel lines behind the scenes. This is the part I have to force my way through because I don't really enjoy it. But it is coming along and I could have some photos soon.
2 July, 18:21
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Thank you Moreno, re-scribing is definitely the part that's the least fun for me too. Some days I have to force myself just to do one line. If you do that once a day eventually it gets done. But yeah, re-scribing sucks.
6 July, 16:21
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Big step made with attaching the wings. It makes me feel like I am moving forward after all.
7 July, 14:33
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An impressive amount of work, your patience and skills are incredible, congrats!
11 July, 20:02
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Wow, what an insane amount of work you put into this project! I am humbled by your perseverance and attention to detail!
12 July, 03:34
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Thanks Thomas, I enjoy the process of trying to figure out how to do stuff. The model is just an added bonus in the end.
12 July, 13:20
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Thanks Moreno. I'm having fun with it, mostly. The panel lines were a drag but I got through that part. Hopefully after the primer I won't have to any major touch ups. But we will see. One step at a time...
13 July, 16:13
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Watching you making process is indeed great to watch. The plane is starting to look great!
16 July, 22:54
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Wow! How do you filled the lines? How was you able to calculate the exact quantity?
17 July, 05:43
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Moreno, I used an engraving tool to cut deep lines and then I rubbed white putty into them. By rubbing the excess off it automatically brings the lines to just below the surface of the model. As the lines dry they also shrink a bit. So, it was not too hard to do. The trick is to use enough water and a brush to apply the putty and to use enough water on a paper towel or cotton bud to remove the excess. Hard to get to areas need to be cleaned up with a wooden tooth pick.
17 July, 06:01
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I never would believe that the base kit is a Revell's offering.... Awesome job!
17 July, 06:31
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I worked on some details today. Tomorrow I will give it another coat of primer and hopefully start the riveting.
17 July, 21:24
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I am debating with myself when the best time to do riveting is. If you do it before priming you run the risk of filling the holes. If you do it after priming it makes it harder to correct mistakes. If you do it after the final paint job you run the risk of fucking everything up. Anyone have any experience with riveting?
19 July, 13:17
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Regarding riveting: I have done it before priming but I don't see why you could not do it after. You'l have to sand after as the riveter leaves 'rings' around each divot (as it pushes the plastic out). In my experience, a thin coat of primer has negligible impact on the rivet holes (if it had, this would be a problem with any factory-riveted kit).
20 July, 23:38
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Alec, I tend to agree with you. My thoughts on doing the riveting after the primer was that the rivets may remain a bit better defined. But I am not convinced. I think I will have to do some tests for the future. By riveting before and after the primer on some styrene, then spraying a color coat over both should give me a better idea of which I prefer. Right now I feel like I prefer not doing it at all, because riveting is a pain. But that's just me feeling sorry for myself for wanting to do a half way decent job on this kit. I do wish I could find some reliable riveting guides for this plane. It seems like everyone is just guessing at it.
21 July, 00:00
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Thanks Patrick, I haven't mastered riveting or panel lines yet but I'm learning. I am pretty limited in my tools and the scale is not the easiest. But with practice and study I hope to improve.
21 July, 22:44
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I've realized that one of the benefits of doing the riveting after the primer is that you can make sure that most of the sanding is completed. However inevitably there are areas that get messed up and sanding is required after all. I just haven't found the perfect solution.
21 July, 23:33
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Enjoying your progress a lot, the transformat is amazing.
I must say your plans are so clear and great reference where do you get your plans like these from, I search the tinternet but never find any as useful as your plans, any extra guidance would be appreciated
22 July, 08:12
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I drew my plans on the computer by looking at various images on the internet. Unfortunately I haven't found any place to download great paneling or riveting guides. There is a Russian website that has blueprints that I sometimes use but I'm not sure if it is still available. I didn't use it for this project.
22 July, 08:31
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Sy Bar, which plane will you be doing next? I can look around for blueprints and see if I can find anything useful.
22 July, 13:37
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Cheers Skyhiker v kind offer and thanks for the info. Not sure what will be next and if plans will be required but I'll keep you in mind should the need arise.
Keep up the work I'm loving watching the progress 👍
23 July, 20:34
![](/profiles/img/46074-690-s.jpg)
Widened the wing roots and I am continuing with the riveting today. Also I did a lot of research on the proper colors to use, which was not as easy as one would think. They certainly are not what the instructions say.
24 July, 17:51
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Great work as usual! I'm curious about the colours: aren't they the late RLMs?
24 July, 18:48
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The colors are late RLM colors but not exactly as the instructions say. To start with they call for the hood to be RLM83 which of course is wrong, since in actuality that was a marine color and blue. Many paint manufacturers have some type of green with that number but it was based on a typing mistake in the original RLM records. I believe the hood should be RLM73 as in the original photos it is a bit darker than 81. The fuselage is RLM81 and RLM82, but there were three variants of 81, two that were brownish and one more green. The green is the correct one for this plane. The under carriage is RLM76, but once again we have three variants to choose from; one that is greyer, one bluer and one more tan colored. The greyer one is correct. There is confusion about whether the nose is red or black. I still have to do more research on this. I believe the propeller blade was RLM70
24 July, 19:16
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I hope to be finished with the riveting today. Most of my time was spent trying to figure out which of the conflicting diagrams was closest to the original. I don't know if I got it right since there are no surviving planes left.
28 July, 10:23
![](/profiles/img/126781-995-s.jpg)
Great Work on this old Revell Kit and there is still one surviving aircraft.In National Air and Space museum.
airandspace.si.edu/c..11/nasm_A19600317000
29 July, 14:01
![](/profiles/img/46074-690-s.jpg)
National Air and Space museum has a different version of this plane. It is very similar but there are a lot of differences.
29 July, 14:37
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I redid the engine today and laid down a second layer of primer. The rivet lines came out well. There are just a few small touch ups on the engine cover and wing tips to do before I start on the wings.
30 July, 15:59
![](/profiles/img/10074-s.jpg)
veut cet article
![1:48 CH-53E "Super Stallion" and MH-53E "Sea Dragon" (ResKit unknown48-1) unknown48-1](/products/img/1/1/9/1569119-10074-39-t180.jpg)
CH-53E "Super Stallion" and MH-53E "Sea Dragon" Engine Nacelles with Air Intake and Exhaust for Academy Kit
ResKit 1:48unknown48-1 2024* Nouvel outillage
![UA UA](/s/images/flags7/32/UA.png)
30 July, 15:57
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