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Early WWII Version - D69820 Cradle And 50 Round Ammo Can
Browning M2HB .50 Cal On Tank Mount Master 1:35
GM-35-069 2024 Nouvel outillage 18 October, 20:18
Curtis Caden
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31 21 September, 16:03
Curtis Caden
Thank you Pepe, Martin Oostrom and Goldman. My only wish is that directions would show pictures of how the part looks after it is attached. Too many arrows pointing in a direction and not even showing which way the part should be flipped. I am convinced that to build a model correctly one should do two of them. One to learn on and one to have for a nice, finished product. I tell myself that I build it because I like the subject matter, and it is only a representation. I felt bad that I couldn't align the white decal stripes better.
Thank you Pepe, Martin Oostrom and Goldman. My only wish is that directions would show pictures of how the part looks after it is attached. Too many arrows pointing in a direction and not even showing which way the part should be flipped. I am convinced that to build a model correctly one should do two of them. One to learn on and one to have for a nice, finished product. I tell myself that I build it because I like the subject matter, and it is only a representation. I felt bad that I couldn't align the white decal stripes better.
22 September, 11:05
David Orr
Very nice work Curtis. Looks like an absolute beast. How did the kit go together? I've got an AMT Kenworth Alaskan Hauler in the stash which I'm hoping to build soon. That will be my first truck model.
Very nice work Curtis. Looks like an absolute beast. How did the kit go together? I've got an AMT Kenworth Alaskan Hauler in the stash which I'm hoping to build soon. That will be my first truck model.
22 September, 23:22
Christian W
That truck looks really nice! Flawless pauntjob. This is what I like 🙂
That truck looks really nice! Flawless pauntjob. This is what I like 🙂
23 September, 09:19
Curtis Caden
David Orr the truck part went together fine. The wrecker part that sits on the frame was a bit awkward. There were two options for the hooking part that led to some confusion on my part. I liked having the long cable but having it molded in plastic was not ideal and I probably should have substituted a fabric rope cable. I did like the way the mirrors in this kit were molded.
David Orr the truck part went together fine. The wrecker part that sits on the frame was a bit awkward. There were two options for the hooking part that led to some confusion on my part. I liked having the long cable but having it molded in plastic was not ideal and I probably should have substituted a fabric rope cable. I did like the way the mirrors in this kit were molded.
23 September, 11:26
Curtis Caden
Italeri doesn't mold their cabs like other companies, and I did have trouble with Opal Blitz Classic cab assembly. On this one the hood lined up just right. Hood alignment has only been a problem on the Ford Louisville Series Delivery Van. If you like the hood you would also like Italeri's Classic Western Star 4964 and Australian Truck.
Italeri doesn't mold their cabs like other companies, and I did have trouble with Opal Blitz Classic cab assembly. On this one the hood lined up just right. Hood alignment has only been a problem on the Ford Louisville Series Delivery Van. If you like the hood you would also like Italeri's Classic Western Star 4964 and Australian Truck.
15 October, 00:11
Bozzer
I had hood issues with mine. I couldn't figure out what had happened? It was like the hood, or cab, was twisted? Just wondered if you had a work around.
I had hood issues with mine. I couldn't figure out what had happened? It was like the hood, or cab, was twisted? Just wondered if you had a work around.
15 October, 11:10
Curtis Caden
Bozzer I had no work around. I find positioning with tape helps. I usually tape the hood to the cab for painting and use tape to hold parts in position until they dry. I used tape for the hood on this one. I think I was just fortunate. My usual problem is getting a twist in the ladder style frame and all I know to do is be more careful.
Bozzer I had no work around. I find positioning with tape helps. I usually tape the hood to the cab for painting and use tape to hold parts in position until they dry. I used tape for the hood on this one. I think I was just fortunate. My usual problem is getting a twist in the ladder style frame and all I know to do is be more careful.
17 October, 22:30
Bozzer
Always check your frame rails, against a flat surface, before starting. Gentle heat from a hairdryer, will help straighten the frame. (Special note: The Mack R685ST kit has a frame that flares out at the front, DON'T correct it!)
To keep my frame square, I build a jig out of Lego and use that to line everything up.
I'll get back to this Western Star, in the coming months, and take another look at it. I may have missed something obvious, that I overlooked? She's been waiting far too long now, to be finished.
Always check your frame rails, against a flat surface, before starting. Gentle heat from a hairdryer, will help straighten the frame. (Special note: The Mack R685ST kit has a frame that flares out at the front, DON'T correct it!)
To keep my frame square, I build a jig out of Lego and use that to line everything up.
I'll get back to this Western Star, in the coming months, and take another look at it. I may have missed something obvious, that I overlooked? She's been waiting far too long now, to be finished.
18 October, 04:55
Martin Oostrom
I've been building the Australian Truck on and off for five years now. It won't get right.
I've been building the Australian Truck on and off for five years now. It won't get right.
18 October, 06:02
Michael Kohl
a ajouté un nouvel album photo.
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50 images
Japanese Phantom F-4EJ KaiNouveau: 18 October, 12:11 1:72
After I mounted the exhausts I considered them too shiny. So, a satin varnish coat followed. Now I like it better
Projet: Japanese Phantom F-4EJ Kai
40 10 October, 15:41
Michael Kohl
Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.
Hi Ben. The engravings of this kit are so delicate that they loose depth with the application of primer to such an extent that panellining becomes quite tricky. I would continue to prime models where this doesn't seem to be an issue but modern airliners or small scale models with such fine engravings I will try to do without. I suppose propper surface preparation and use of colors with more 'bite' than acrylics would be a good idea to avoid issues with paint adhesion.
12 October, 07:34
Petar Žorić
Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!
Not priming a model with fine shallow lines is a great idea. I would guess if you use stronger lacquer based paints its not an issue. Will try this on my next model with fine lines! Awesome progress BTW looks really good!
12 October, 11:56
Ben M
Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.
Tamiya makes "fine surface primer" I think for this application. I find it does not level as well as the regular product though.
12 October, 12:55
Michael Kohl
Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.
Almost done. Now I have to adjust the shine. Even with the use of flat clear from Mr. Hobby the paint appears too shiny. Afraid to use AK Ultra Matt as this will be as matt as matt can be and thus maybe a bit too much. Then painting the radon and mounting the exhausts.
13 October, 11:14
Michael Kohl
I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.
I was cheerfully positive to finish this bird today. But the gods of modelling had other plans. After removing the canopy masks I discovered an area where paint/varnish has crept under the edge and marred the inside. Shit. But I will live with it. Then I recalled that the seals of the canopy were still to be done. A quick freehand job seemed to be a sure road to regret and disappointment. So I was in for another round of masking. Painting will follow tomorrow- hopefully.
17 October, 19:45
bughunter
Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.
Built in a week? Holy moly, great workl 👍
@Ben The finest Primer I know are the MRP ones. It is thinner than many paints! On plastic I still prefer Alclad with micro filler, but the MRP sticks better on resin.
18 October, 15:29
Ben M
Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.
This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.
Thanks! I'll see next time I'm at the hobby shop if they have MRP stuff. I have always found tamiya primer to stick to anything but I don't like how the fine surface primer can pool and not level.
This phantom one thing I'm really enjoying are the striped metallic portions showing the ribs. It's very well done. And I see lots of great surface detail despite the Mr surfacer.
18 October, 20:01
fernleaf78
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German
Africa Corps Luftwaffe Artillery Crew Set (8 figures) Tamiya 1:35
35343 (343) 2015 Nouvel outillage 18 October, 20:12
fernleaf78
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German Tank Destroyer
Marder III Sd.Kfz.139 7.62cm Pak36(r) auf Gw.38(t) Tamiya 1:35
35248 2001 Nouvel outillage 18 October, 20:12
Andy W.
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USMC
M1A1 FEP Abrams/Combat Dozer Blade with workable track links Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
RM-5048 2023 Nouvelles pièces 18 October, 20:11
David Johnson
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a terminé cet article
Tiger I Late Production w/zimmerit Sd.Kfz. 181 Pz.Kpfw. VI Ausf. E (Late/Late Command)
Takom 1:35
2199 (TAK2199) 2023 Nouvelles pièces 18 October, 20:07
David Johnson
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Tiger I Mid-Production w/Zimmerit Sd.Kfz. 181 Pz.Kpfw. VI Ausf. E
Takom 1:35
2198 (TAK2198) 2023 Nouvel outillage 18 October, 20:07
David Johnson
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TIGER I BIG BOX Mid, Late, Mid (Otto Carius) & 1/16 Otto Carius figure
Takom 1:35
2200W (TAK2200W) 2023 Ensemble de modèles Multi sujets (2)18 October, 20:07
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