Israeli F-15D "Baz"

 

After 7 years on the shelf of doom, she sees the light of day! 

Cockpit ready for gloss and pin wash.  

Weapons are ready for gloss and pin wash  

Scratch-building a set of the rigid plastic intake covers. Still rough, but they’re getting there 

Modeling one wing drop tank as a bobtail WRM (War Reserve Materials) tank, just to be a little different.  

Test fitting the forward fuselage and testing CG for nose weight.  

I originally started this kit as a USAF F-15E Strike Eagle, yet I have decided to convert it to an Israeli F-15D "Baz" which is current with their "Baz 2000" upgrade / re-fit program. So, OFF with the left vert antenna "bullet". I'll have to add a counterweight spear that matches the other side. 

The CFT weapons pylons also need to be removed. Apparently, Tamiya cement is much stronger than I'd expected, as it left deep scars and a few holes in the CFTs. No problem; I can fix them. 

The holes were widened to fit some .060" styrene strips in them. I glued them in with "Sprue Goo" and let them cure for 2 days before cutting them down and shaving them flush. 

 

Riffler Files definitely helped shave down the thick styrene fillers... 

A heavy coat of Mr. Surfacer primer was laid-down after filling in any remaining pinholes and defects with Tamiya Putty. 

The Israelis use a SATCOM Antenna on the backbone of the fuselage. I decided to scratch-build one from the nose of a 1k lb bomb and some .020" styrene sheet. 

Here's the first "draft". It underwent more shaping after this to get the correct profile. 

Some leftover Kinetic "Kfir" weapons pylons (cut down) will serve as the forward stub pylons on the CFTs. Like everything else, these underwent more shaping and sculpting to get them just right. 

The Israelis use an indigenous "Self-Protection Pod" called the ELTA made by IAI. I decided to scratch build it too, and it's adapter fairing. 

Test fitting the pylon and ELTA pod 

This is not the final product. More shaping to do. When it's all done, it'll be a convincing replica. 

.010” Lead solder brake lines and EZ Line wire bundles for the landing lights. Thin strips of self-adhesive Lead foil tape are now the bands that secure everything to the struts.  

 

Test-fitting the Eduard resin wheels (Israeli-specific). 

Small bits of steel wire serve as the pylon-to-tank lines 

The tanks, pylons and missile rails are ready for primer. 

 

The kit came with a very unsightly seam down the middle of the windscreen and canopy. No worries! 

The seam was scraped and then the entire canopy wet sanded with 1,000 grit and soapy water. A genuine F-15 canopy polishing "Micro-Mesh" kit was used to wet sand it in stages. I've actually used this kit to polish scratches from real F-15 canopies (years ago).  

After the 1,000 grit, I moved on to wet sanding with the 2,400 grit, 3,600 grit, 6,000 and then 8,000 grit and the soapy water. 

Here's the difference between the 3,600 grit stage (left) and the 1,000 grit stage (right). 

The canopies got polished with a dremel tool and felt polishing pad loaded with Mr. Hobby Super Fine polishing compound. THIS STUFF WORKS!!! 

This is after low-speed polishing, followed by hand-polishing with the compound. Already a huge improvement! 

Future was applied to deepen the gloss.  

Since I decided to model this jet with the canopy closed, I needed to glue-on the canopy skirt. After filling and fairing it, I need to apply more primer. The cockpit tubs were first filled with soft, open-cell foam. 

White Tack putty was used to finish masking-off the cockpit area. I like to use putty shaping tools to compress it into every nook and cranny. It sticks just enough to be useful, yet is pretty easy to remove. From here, the nose section was primed. 

As usual for me, the entire model is “scuff sanded” with #0000 steel wool. This creates billions of tiny surface scratches for the primer to soak into. This REALLY promotes adhesion!  

All traces of mold release, fingerprints, etc are now removed with an alcohol wipe-down. It's all about SURFACE PREPARATION! 

Everything is blown clean with canned compressed air  

The entire model was pre-shaded with gunship grey.  

 

The Testors Model Master Enamel FS36375 base coat was laid down in thin layers so that the pre/shading will slightly show through. 

 

 

Tanks, gear doors, etc. were also painted. 

Light coats sometimes + overspray. It is removed by rubbing the model down (again) with fine steel wool to smooth-out any overspray or orange peel, in preparation for painting the camouflage pattern 

With the instructions as a guide, I casually draw-out the camo pattern with a #2 pencil. I did not mask-off the camo, as I intend to free-hand it using my Grex Tritium airbrush turned down to about 4 PSI. Having painted REAL F-15s and other camo aircraft before, I know the pattern is a suggestion, and every jet differs from the next. It's all done by hand with a spray gun. 

The base coat was FS36375, but the instructions called for 36320 camo; which I felt was too close to the base color. I grabbed a jar of 36271 and darkened it to match 36300 on my FS color chart. 

It needs a few touch-ups, but overall I'm very happy. As I expected, the 36300 came out a bit dark, but I intend to mottle it and lighten it up a bit for realism. 

FS36375 is mottled onto the surface, sprayed through a fiberglass furnace filter in order to tone down the contrast between the two colors  

 

That's much better now... 

 

 

 

 

The weathering begins with the drop tanks. This is only the second time I've used these AK weathering pencils, and Israeli birds are notoriously filthy, so I've got my work cut out for me! 

Several colors are applied in splotches, and then I lick the paint brush and move the color around. So far so good. I'm making her dirty, but not filthy. I find that most people way overdo it, when it comes to weathering. 

Masked off to paint the Titanium engine areas. 

Pre-shaded with "Exhaust" Metallizer Lacquer 

Heat-scorched areas pre-shaded with Burnt Iron Metallizer. 

It's a bit "Silver" but I'll tone it down later with Tamiya Smoke acryic and weathering wash / pencils. 

 

She's nearly ready for decals! 

 

The last of the initial weathering is complete. I’ll add a little more once the final flat clearcoat goes on. 

The initial weathering is complete. I noalso re-painted the titanium engine areas a slightly darkerTime for gloss clear coat and decals.  

Radome is now painted and weathered.  

Two thin coats of Tamiya rattle can gloss clear seals in the weathering pencils and gives a smooth surface for decaling. 

I’ve decided to apply ALL of the airframe stencils on this bird, and I NEVER do that! It’s a ton of decals! 

Some beautiful tail markings! 

I decided to use the engine nozzles from my Revell F-15E kit. They are of nicer quality and detail; especially the actuator connector rods.  

The top and sides are done. Now to flip it over and add about 20 more airframe stencils on the wings and belly… 

Testers metallizer burnt metal was dry brushed on top of the burnt iron color I’d already airbrushed on. A K metallic weathering pencils are now being used to highlight various features and surfaces. Lots more work to do on the right nozzle. 

The entire model was slathered in Flory wash. This color is a mixture of their gray and their grime colors. Again, I don’t like Stark contrast, so I don’t use Black. I find it extremely unrealistic. 

Once the wash was dry, I couldn’t help but wipe some away with a damp cloth to reveal the effect on one wing before going to bed 

Citadel Gaming Figure wash was added to all the ECS and gun bay louvers. The color is called “Nuln Oil”.  

When it’s dry, this product dries to a really dark gray, nearly black, but not quite black. I think Black is just too stark of a contrast. 

The Flat (Matte) Vallejo Mecha Varnish clear coat is on. This is the FLATTEST flat clear known to man.  

The seats are done, as are the scratch-built oxygen hoses with comm cables, made from Bass guitar string and EZ line. They got a detail was and flat clear after this.. 

Bits of wire for the PIP Pin handles, and bits of Uschi rigging line for the cables that attach to them.  

Bits of wire for handles on the rigid (Revell) intake covers. Everything is now painted red, awaiting the wash and Hebrew RBF tags 

I achieved the bluish hue on the scorched Titanium engine cans by coloring the bands with blue and red AK pencils and blending them together with a wet brush.  

After blending… I think it looks the part, without being overdone  

Test fit of the engine nozzles after the flat clear sealed in (and deepened) the colors 

Test fit of the windscreen and canopy. She’s coming together! 

She’s got landing gear and missiles, and about 95% complete.. 

Bass guitar strings for oxygen hoses, Hebrew RBF tags, and even a map in the rear cockpit  

Eduard resin wheels and SAC metal landing gear with scratch built brake lines (.010” Lead solder) 

 

Scratch built IAI ELTA ECM pod 

Scratch built backbone SATCOM antenna dome 

Top view—my favorite shot! 

Scratch built exhaust plugs (foam and lead foil tape)