[Revell] BMW 507 - WIP
This kit was a combined set with i8, but I made i8. so this 507 was state without a box.
And, this is an old kit from a very old mold.
And, this is an old kit from a very old mold.
This sprue was bent when I first received it.
This is very common with revell kits.
This is very common with revell kits.
I would turn it over, put something heavy on both sides, and blow air with a hair dryer every time I went back and forth for a few days.
It has been restored.
Washed.
Engraving panel-line and removing parting line.
I scraped the inside of the fender because the cross section was too thick.
L: original / R: scraped
The emblem was embossed, but I removed it because I didn't need it.
The part with the mold lines was thick, so I scraped it off and thinned it out. (Arrow is before fix, right is after fix)
Since the jaws were separate, I glued them and applied putty.
While the putty was hardening, I pre-assembled the bonnet and found that there was a large gap.
Slice the pla-plate to...
Glue it down and...
Removed gaps with sanding.
The putty had finished drying, so I sanded it down.
I'll have to check it again later after I paint the surfacer.
I'll have to check it again later after I paint the surfacer.
I have now sanded the entire body-shell.
The quality of the plated parts in this kit is so poor that I will have to look at them one by one and come up with a work plan.
It is the most noticeable decorative part, but it is bent and completely crushed, so it cannot be used as is.
It is the most noticeable decorative part, but it is bent and completely crushed, so it cannot be used as is.
The parting line is clearly visible on the bumper.
The grill on the front should go into the housing, but it doesn't...
I don't know if the room mirror part on the left is an injection defect or the mold is damaged, but it is completely unusable. The side mirror in the photo on the right also has protruding parting-line and push pin marks.
The vent parts near the windshield also protrude significantly rather than going inward.
Since the outside diameter of the headlamp housing is larger than the body, this also needs to be corrected.
Of the plated parts, only the side slits fit perfectly with the bodywork, so I think I can just chrome them without modification (but I'll have to remove the embossed BMW emblem).
For the bonnet decoration, one sheet of aluminum plate was cut into a V shape, another sheet was cut thinly, bent, and then glued together.
This is my first time doing metal processing. I don't know if it was because the aluminum was too thin, but it was difficult to process because it bent easily.
This is my first time doing metal processing. I don't know if it was because the aluminum was too thin, but it was difficult to process because it bent easily.
I put it on the bonnet and it looks allight.
The vertical bar was made by grinding aluminum rod into a square pillar.
I didn't have any tools or materials for metal processing, but I had some sculptural aluminium wire, so I used it.
I didn't have any tools or materials for metal processing, but I had some sculptural aluminium wire, so I used it.
I roughly carved it into a similar shape and placed it on the bonnet.
I trimmed it a bit more and assembled it with the wings.
I think it looks much better than the original parts.
I think it looks much better than the original parts.
The top part was shaved off a bit more and then polished to finish it off.
The outer diameter of the headlamp cup was narrowed by sanding.
The curves of the body were not smooth and showed slightly angled areas, so I sanded the entire body again.
The windshield parts were of poor quality, so I sanded them and then scrubbed them endlessly with a compound.
Done.
The plating was removed by soaking in bleach.
As expected, the primer was not removed. 🙁
As expected, the primer was not removed. 🙁
As expected, the hubcaps also had primer clumped together.
I sanded it all down and removed the embossed emblem in the center.
I sanded it all down and removed the embossed emblem in the center.
I broke it while scraping the backing to make the vent area near the windshield as thin as possible.
Even though I scraped it off thinly, it did not go into the body.
So I drilled a hole in the body and it fit perfectly.
So I drilled a hole in the body and it fit perfectly.
The molded mesh expression was removed and nylon mesh was attached.
Done.
Because the body is pierced, it fits well without sticking out even though mesh is added underneath.
Because the body is pierced, it fits well without sticking out even though mesh is added underneath.
I sigh just looking at it. 🙁
The rearview mirror in particular is in the worst shape.
The rearview mirror in particular is in the worst shape.
I decided to build it up one by one, starting with what seemed the simplest.
It is a part that is inserted into the indicated location, but I do not know what it is actually used for.
Parking brake? Bonnet open handle? Anyway...
It is a part that is inserted into the indicated location, but I do not know what it is actually used for.
Parking brake? Bonnet open handle? Anyway...
I cut a small piece of aluminum, trimmed it, drilled holes, assembled it with insect pin.
Next, I cut the neck of the side mirror and made the body by cutting and attaching thin stainless steel pipes and insect pins to the appropriate length.
For the mirror part, Zaku's monoeye and gun scope modification parts from Gunpla were used.
The muffler end was made by cutting aluminum pipe.
There is something made of metal on the marked part of the steering wheel, but I don't know what it is. (Maybe paddle shift?)
Anyway, I cut the aluminum into small pieces and processed it.
It was too inconvenient to work with metal, so I bought a mini vise.
So far, it seems to be quite usable.
Anyway, I cut the aluminum into small pieces and processed it.
It was too inconvenient to work with metal, so I bought a mini vise.
So far, it seems to be quite usable.
It was finished by processing it into an appropriate shape, filing and polishing it, and then bending it.
The turn signal switch is very simple to modify.
I put a little UV resin on the end and hardened it.
I put a little UV resin on the end and hardened it.
Carving the gearstick head itself wasn't difficult, but it was so small and the plastic was bent that I had to carve it several times.
Next, it's time to modify the poor quality rearview mirror, which is embarrassing to even call a part.
After cutting and polishing the aluminum rod, I cut and attached a stainless steel pipe to the back.
After cutting and polishing the aluminum rod, I cut and attached a stainless steel pipe to the back.
The pillar part of the rear-view mirror was also made by carving aluminum rods.
There should be a bezel around the edge of the mirror, but I didn't want to bother, so I left it out.
There should be a bezel around the edge of the mirror, but I didn't want to bother, so I left it out.
I usually don't fix the pushpin marks, but since the sun visor is still very visible when finished, I had to fix it.
And while I'm at it, spreaded it to the bonnet.
And while I'm at it, spreaded it to the bonnet.
Done.
Next is seats.
First, a small groove was dug at the bottom of the sheet.
First, a small groove was dug at the bottom of the sheet.
I took a picture because there was an injection defect.
I think the mold may have been damaged.
I think the mold may have been damaged.
I tried to express wrinkles easily.
Rough carving marks can be smoothed by wiping them a few times with non-resin adhesive (Quick Type x).
Rough carving marks can be smoothed by wiping them a few times with non-resin adhesive (Quick Type x).
I replaced the seat hinges with metal.
Of course, I didn't replace the inconspicuous part on the door side.
Of course, I didn't replace the inconspicuous part on the door side.
Next, I carved a piece of plastic rod to make a seat position adjustment lever.
It's a little big, but let's let it go. 😉
It's a little big, but let's let it go. 😉
The sheet is made of two pieces, front and back, but the step was quite large, so I filled it with putty.
I scraped it off with a knife, but the putty didn't stick and came off.
I quickly gave up and applied a thick layer of slightly viscous instant adhesive.
After sanding, I also scraped off the molds on the edges.
And then cut the pla-plate into thin slices...
I made edge line on the back.
Next is the sunshade.
The basic structure was created by bending thin stainless wire and cutting pieces of aluminum plate.
The basic structure was created by bending thin stainless wire and cutting pieces of aluminum plate.
I had to make a support that would be fixed to the window frame, so I carved an aluminum rod.
I needed 4 pieces, so I tried to cut it into 4 pieces and screwed it up. 😄
Threw it... and I just cut a square pla-rod and made it.
It can't be assembled right now, but once it's painted and assembled, it will roughly look like this.
It can't be assembled right now, but once it's painted and assembled, it will roughly look like this.
This is lever of side window.
It is inconvenient to work with lathe because the rotary tool I have is a bit wobbly.
It is inconvenient to work with lathe because the rotary tool I have is a bit wobbly.
And another lever (maybe.. door knob?)
Hmm... I think this would have been fine just by trimming the original parts.
Mine was a little too thick, so I'll have to sand it down later to make it a little thinner.
Hmm... I think this would have been fine just by trimming the original parts.
Mine was a little too thick, so I'll have to sand it down later to make it a little thinner.
I wondered if the front grill part didn't fit well due to the thickness of the plating, but it didn't fit well regardless of that.
I had to carve out the entire inside of the part, but especially the marked area(towards the headlamp).
Now it's a good fit.
Next, I made a jig like this.
On the jig, thinly sliced pla-plate were attached vertically, and thin wires were cut and attached horizontally on top of them.
I made another one on the other side in the same way, paying attention to the direction.
I scraped the back of the original piece to make it as thin as possible, cut out the inside with a knife, and attached the mesh I had made.
Finally, cut off the protruding mesh and... Voilà!
It would have been nice to have grid etching like the detail-up parts on the Tamiya Aston Martin DBS, but since it's not there, we'll have to settle for this... 😉
It would have been nice to have grid etching like the detail-up parts on the Tamiya Aston Martin DBS, but since it's not there, we'll have to settle for this... 😉
I tried to remove the embossed BMW emblem on the side slit, but the back was so thin that it pierce through.
So I completely drilled it all down.
So I completely drilled it all down.
Aluminum rods were cut to an appropriate thickness and inserted.
It's a very old mold, so the instrument panel is embossed, but the repackaged product include the decal too.
So I removed them for the detail-up.
So I removed them for the detail-up.
By polishing aluminum pipes of two diameters...
I made a chrome trim for the instrument panel.
A few buttons were also removed.
I carved a pla-rod to make a white button and placed it.
I also made buttons on the left side.
In the photo of the real car, there is a seam at the top of the dashboard, so I made a roughly similar.
The marked is where broke when the gluing.
The marked is where broke when the gluing.
I tried to use an PE wiper, but it was impossible because it was almost double size.
So I decided to just trim the original parts as thin and sharp as possible and use them. (Arrow: modified)
So I decided to just trim the original parts as thin and sharp as possible and use them. (Arrow: modified)
I don't know what the original shape was, but I made a new one that like an antenna.
It's probably the antenna, right? 🙂
I trimmed the aluminum rod to make a washer fluid nozzle.
The nozzle looks unusual, but I guess that's because it's a classic car. (Obviously, I omitted the nozzle hole.)
With this, it seems like the basic work for important detailing has been completed.
The nozzle looks unusual, but I guess that's because it's a classic car. (Obviously, I omitted the nozzle hole.)
With this, it seems like the basic work for important detailing has been completed.
Now I was trying to trim the remaining parts, but I saw an error on the first page of the assembly instructions.
What I was holding was part number 6 in the manual, but it didn't fit because of the protrusion on the marked part.
Summary: You just need to swap parts numbers 6 and 7.
What I was holding was part number 6 in the manual, but it didn't fit because of the protrusion on the marked part.
Summary: You just need to swap parts numbers 6 and 7.
And I remembered that older kits have bonnets that are less closed due to engine room parts, so I tried assembling it.
Just looking at it, it looks like it won't close because of the marked parts.
Just looking at it, it looks like it won't close because of the marked parts.
As expected...
I had to cut it by the amount shown.
Now it's a good fit.
When I opened the bonnet, it seemed to open a lot, so I corrected the push pin marks.
Although the rivet representation on the roof cover is quite good, I decided to remove it to improve the detail.
I removed the rivet and marked its location with a stylus, but the plastic was so soft that it fell apart.
After applying non-resin adhesive to make it soft, I carefully restored it.
After applying non-resin adhesive to make it soft, I carefully restored it.
I trimmed all the parts and sorted them by color to be painted. Because the injection quality was not good, it took two days to refine it.
I painted various colors first...
All parts that needed to be painted glossy black were first painted with black surfacer.
I painted gloss black. (Wheels is over coated clear smoke on the metal black)
Clear over coated.
Again x2
White surfacer.
I sprayed a semi-gloss red to make it look almost matt.
The windshield frames shown are red on the back.
The windshield frames shown are red on the back.
Since the wheel edges are chrome, I masked them.
It's been a while since I painted it with chrome, but it didn't turn out the quality I wanted.
Still, it's hazy now, but once it's completely dried, the reflection will be much better than it is now.
Still, it's hazy now, but once it's completely dried, the reflection will be much better than it is now.
The under plate was also masked for painting.
The marked area has a complex shape, so I plan to paint it with a brush.
The marked area has a complex shape, so I plan to paint it with a brush.
Finished brushing.
Ready to assemble. (but, I haven't polished the body shell yet)
Polishing Start - Sand.
Polishing 1. Rough compound.
Polishing 2. Medium compound.
Polishing 3. Finish compound.
Polishing Final - Extra finish(GSI ceramic compound)
I decided to work on the dashboard first, as it looked like it would require a lot of work before I could assemble it a`ccording to the assembly instructions.
I trimmed the pla-plate so that it would fit comfortably inside the aluminum housing of the instrument panel. (If it was too thin, it would tilt when inserted, so 0.5mm thick was about right.)
I trimmed the pla-plate so that it would fit comfortably inside the aluminum housing of the instrument panel. (If it was too thin, it would tilt when inserted, so 0.5mm thick was about right.)
The small instrument panel was made easy to fit by adding a pla-rod to the back.
Then I applied decal.
And now I need something like this.
This is the inner packaging material for kim(seaweed), a traditional Korean food.
Anything flat, stiff, thin, and transparent will do, but this was all I had on hand.
Gossip: The global popularity of kimbap has led to an explosion in South Korea's kim(seaweed) exports, which has driven up the price of kim(seaweed) here. 🙁
Koreans can't live without kim(seaweed), kimchi, and ramyun. 🙂
This is the inner packaging material for kim(seaweed), a traditional Korean food.
Anything flat, stiff, thin, and transparent will do, but this was all I had on hand.
Gossip: The global popularity of kimbap has led to an explosion in South Korea's kim(seaweed) exports, which has driven up the price of kim(seaweed) here. 🙁
Koreans can't live without kim(seaweed), kimchi, and ramyun. 🙂
Anyway, Cut and trimmed the PETs to the same size. (required x2)
Drops of UV resin were placed on the decal, covered with cut PET, pressed lightly, and then cured.
The aluminum pipe was fixed with wood glue at an appropriate depth.
Attached to the dashboard.
I lost some of the buttons I made, so I made them again and attached them.
While editing the photo, I found that the audio decal position was a little off. It was already fully glued so there was no way to move it sideways.
It's okay if you see it with the naked eye or from above, you won't notice it at all. Because I did that... 😉
While editing the photo, I found that the audio decal position was a little off. It was already fully glued so there was no way to move it sideways.
It's okay if you see it with the naked eye or from above, you won't notice it at all. Because I did that... 😉
A handle for some unknown purpose was also attached.
Since the handle was placed vertically, I later rotated it horizontally.
Since the handle was placed vertically, I later rotated it horizontally.
It was inconvenient to work if the wire moved, so I temporarily fixed it with tape and then attached it.
However, the instant adhesive flowed into the gaps, making it impossible to move.
However, the instant adhesive flowed into the gaps, making it impossible to move.
Assembled the inside of the door.
These are metal stickers that I personally made last year for things I thought would be needed in the kits I own.
motorart.tistory.com/605
motorart.tistory.com/394
However, because I did a lot of modifications this time, I ended up using only the one shown.
motorart.tistory.com/605
motorart.tistory.com/394
However, because I did a lot of modifications this time, I ended up using only the one shown.
Why I love metal stickers.
Next, Using etching and insect pins...
I made the pins for the roof cover.
I planned to do it as marked, but making one of those was extremely stressful because the head of the insect pin would stick out, fall off, or not stick in place.
I gave up because I wasn't confident enough to make 11 pieces.
I planned to do it as marked, but making one of those was extremely stressful because the head of the insect pin would stick out, fall off, or not stick in place.
I gave up because I wasn't confident enough to make 11 pieces.
So, I just glued the etching on for now. (Well... it looks fine as is.)
It wasn't included in the kit, but I thought it would be nice to have a seat belt, so I decided to make one.
A piece of plastic was trimmed into an appropriate shape and attached to the end of black tape of the appropriate width with instant adhesive.
In Korea, they call it line tape, but in English it's probably called whiteboard tape.
A piece of plastic was trimmed into an appropriate shape and attached to the end of black tape of the appropriate width with instant adhesive.
In Korea, they call it line tape, but in English it's probably called whiteboard tape.
Then paint to create a seat belt socket and...
Next, I cut the etching to create a clip.
And so, the seat is assembled.
A drop of UV resin was placed on the BMW emblem decal and hardened.
Assembled the wheel cover.
UV resin was also applied to the gear stick and hardened.
Since the attachment surface must be flat to attach the embossed emblem decal, the aluminum parts made in #81 could not be used. Instead, I shaved the pla-rod.
I attached all the remaining decals.
Attached F/R emblem.
I attached the emblem in the side slit.
I also attached decorations to the bonnet.
Assembling the windshield. It was quite a pain to attach the sun visor.
Engine built.
I'm trying to attach a radiator but there are no holes indicated in the instructions.
I had no choice but to cut off the male pin and attach it with glue.
I had no choice but to cut off the male pin and attach it with glue.
Bottom parts done.
Interior start.
Interior done.
Another picture.
Steering parts were assembled.
Engine room parts were assembled.
Assembled wheels .
Assembled hip.
Attached grill.
Attached vent.
Because it was processed to fit perfectly, it became narrow due to the thickness of the paint, so when I forced it in, the place where it had broken once broke again.
Because it was processed to fit perfectly, it became narrow due to the thickness of the paint, so when I forced it in, the place where it had broken once broke again.
Attached gills.
Assembled face.
Join to bottom.
There was a gap so large that the marked area could not be covered by the windshield.
There was a gap so large that the marked area could not be covered by the windshield.
When separating the upper and lower, the paint on the marked area was cracked.
So I painted over it, but it didn't come out clean. 🙁
So I painted over it, but it didn't come out clean. 🙁
In the end, I took it apart again, moved the dashboard a little forward, put the upper and lower plates together, and then installed the wheels.
Anyway, now I've attached all the remaining parts and it's done.
Yeah~
I also put a roof on.
Well, it's not bad.
However, since the interior was made with great care, we decided to leave it open. (Of course, it is removable, but...)
It's finally over!
Thanks for watching the long production period, and see you next time with the completed photos.
Thanks for watching the long production period, and see you next time with the completed photos.
Commentaires
82 20 April, 18:29
Dominik Weitzeroh wow....that looks not good with the fitting of the chrome parts.
i've build this BMW twice and had not that issues. perhaps, the mold is old :-D because i had the first issue i worked with.
good luck! At the end. it is a very nice model 😉
22 April, 08:09
JvAs always I think we all appreciate your step by step build pics and the problems in the kit
You find
Fantastic work on the model but also on the instructions on how you overcome
The challenges in the kits
Sure a cool car but looks to be a challenge to build
Fantastic work
25 April, 09:20
Michael .Great job so far. Love the work on the hood (bonnet) decoration. Looks great.
25 April, 11:33
Bruce HuxtableHere, here to all th eprevious comments 🙂 I'm learning lots - especially that one should not be daunted by poor quality parts!!
26 April, 14:27
Alexander GrivonevThis is some tideous work. These older kits are quite the pain in the butt sometimes but you are doing an astounding job with these improvements 👍. Following with great interest!
30 April, 07:23
TreehuggerOh. Bending and gluing on a thin strip of styrene is tricky, next to impossible if the turn/bend is too hard, as the glue will in my experience, always snap the rod.
What might work, is to glue on one end of the rod, then make the bend, and then glue on, only parts of the styrene rod, and making sure you don't use too much liquid glue, or the thin styrene rod snaps.
2 May, 06:24
MS KThat's right. I broke it once too. hahaha
I thought it was because my pla-plate was so old (I bought it over 15 years ago) that it was worn out.
2 May, 06:39
TreehuggerIt just occurred to me that cyanoacrylate glue is the key glue to use in such cases. Only now today did I think of that. I suspect the superglue won't react with the styrene, and so it won't snap I think.
Sometimes fiddling too much with thin bits of some styrene rod, if you started to bend it, makes the rod snap, same with thin plastic parts, and so I try to be gentle and not overly twist and rold the parts in my fingers.
2 May, 06:48
Bruce HuxtableI'm experiencing huge enjoyment seeing the tiny pieces of perfection that you are hand-crafting 🙂
3 May, 13:07
Dominik WeitzerWow (again). how did you glue the "metal"-parts like the missoros? that is outstanding detailwork!!! Im just on side 6 from your well documented build. amazing!
btw. the handle on the dashborad left is for the parkingbrake.
the two "paddles" on the steeringwheel are the hornbuttons 😉
6 May, 08:09
Michael .Fantastic. I'm interested how the speedo and tach are going to be mounted in those beautiful trim rings.
8 May, 15:10
bughunterGreat detail work on each and every little part 👍
What kind of glue do you use for the aluminum parts?
17 May, 20:45
MS KThanks guys.
@bughunter - I used AXIA031, Loctite Easy Brush. Since cianoacrilate super glue is weak to impact, sometimes additional woodworking glue is applied. 🙂
18 May, 05:22
JvFantastic work as always
An inspiration to all
I ha e a few mediocre kits in my stash of a few cars I think are cool
Thanks for sharing how we can make them butiful builds
21 May, 12:13
TreehuggerLots of fun detailing. 🙂
Wonder where he got his tiny nylon mesh from. I could use some of that for a future 1:24 70's Dodge Challenger kit, a kit which.. when ordered off Amazon is shipped.. in December in 5-6 months. One can buy photo etch, but there doesn't seem to be any photo etch for venting mesh parts for the the hood on the car,, which is surprising. A nylon mesh might work nicely.
28 May, 07:56
MS K@Treehugger - Japanese kits like Tamiya, Hasegawa racing car often come with nylon netting, which I save as much as possible and use for things like this.
28 May, 08:16
István SzücsThe handle on the #128 picture is the handbrake, I think.
So, at the end of the build you will turn the key, and drive into the sunset?
28 May, 19:19
Michael .I didn't see him scratch build a tiny key ring with keys... That may still be on his todo list...
28 May, 20:03
Christian WAwesome outcome! With all the detailling it's sad, that if you don't know about it, it's hardly to see. It looks fantastic.
3 June, 04:22
Robert PodkońskiAwesome indeed! Even more, taking into account how quick the build process was and the quality of the kit itself... Chapeau bas!
3 June, 04:43
Spanjaardsuperb job. it looks fresh out of the shop. it could be in the BMW catalogue 😉 thanks for all the extra info
3 June, 08:20
Alexander GrivonevWhat a beautiful build, it was a pleasure to follow along, so many fantastic details👍 Amazing!
3 June, 12:22
bughunterThanks for your answer! I have it in my stash (also the flat one) but have not tried to polish it.
12 June, 14:05
MS K@bughunter - Gloss clear paints with UV cut effect sometimes do not cure well.
Unless you are in an environment where you will be exposed to sunlight for a long time, I recommend normal clear.
And the compound I use is as follows:
Rough: GSI Mr. Compound #600 (red label)
Medium: Tamiya Fine (blue lid)
Finish: Tamiya Finish (white lid)
Extra Finish: GSI ceramic compound
After each step of polishing, it is good to wash it thoroughly with water before proceeding to the next step polishing.
This is because any coarse compound particles left behind will get mixed up when polishing with the next finer compound, making it less effective.
I'm using a translator and I don't know if my English explanation is correct. 😉
12 June, 15:39
Album info
FHD images - motorart.tistory.com/758
