Model Kit: 1_400 POTEMKIN, made by Ogonek (C-180), new box from 199x.
Update Kits:
Ship deck:
There are two manufacturers: ArtwoxModel and Eskadra.
I did a thorough research and comparison between both manufacturers. The ArtwoxModel was left on the table - it is made exactly according to the model, every small, slot and recess is exactly in its place.
Wooden deck: ArtwoxModel (AW50004) - very precisely tuned to the level of the model, every small slot and recess is matched and a piece of anchor chain.
But what cannot be said about the Eskadra wooden deck (EP35008), it has inaccuracies and simplifications - Avoid using this set!
Recommendation - use ArtwoxModel ship deck!
Propeller set: Eskadra (EB 350016), details need finishing.
Squadron (EB 350041) additional details for the chimney kit and anchor chain housing outlet "eyes".
Microdesign's two level sheet sets:
MD 400001, the basic deck building supplement set (the grid is densely packed with details!)
MD 400002, Chimney upgrade kit.
The problem are the gun barrels - that are not offered in this scale. Available for Zvezda 1/200 kit.
Pipes, i.e. all pipes must be made by yourself
Ship deck:
There are two manufacturers: ArtwoxModel and Eskadra.
I did a thorough research and comparison between both manufacturers. The ArtwoxModel was left on the table - it is made exactly according to the model, every small, slot and recess is exactly in its place.
Wooden deck: ArtwoxModel (AW50004) - very precisely tuned to the level of the model, every small slot and recess is matched and a piece of anchor chain.
But what cannot be said about the Eskadra wooden deck (EP35008), it has inaccuracies and simplifications - Avoid using this set!
Recommendation - use ArtwoxModel ship deck!
Gun Barrels:
The problem - the gun barrels - that are not offered in this scale. Available for Zvezda 1/200 kit, but not for 1/400.
Pipes, i.e. all pipes must be made by yourself, which is what I did:
I used Albion Alloys Ltd. SFT8 - main caliber irons and SFT1 set - all other onboard guns.
Gun Barrels:
First Type - made by Pictures - 3. and 4. steps are not correct Size.
Analyzing art Drawings, Pictures, and old Photos - level 3 and 4 corrections required - the transition is in smaller steps!
Suitable set of tubes: SRT8: (1.1; 1.3; 1.5; 1.7) mm!
After comparing the shape and dimensions of the cannon tube selected according to the photos and drawings, the corrected shape was the final choice.
Analyzing art drawings, pictures, and old photos - level 3 and 4 corrections required - the transition is in smaller steps!
Suitable set of tubes: SRT8: (1.1; 1.3; 1.5; 1.7) mm!
After comparing the shape and dimensions of the cannon tube selected according to the photos and drawings, the corrected shape was the final choice.
Main Gun;
I made a solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the tube) and that would allow the turret to rotate.
I solved the fixing and rotation of the tower with a washer and a magnet, it also allows the tower to be removed, but it doesn't just fall off.
Main Gun:
I made a solution that allowed the turret to rotate.
I solved the fixing and rotation of the tower with a washer and a magnet, it also allows the tower to be removed, but it doesn't just fall off.
Main Gun: Main caliber gun turret on the ship's bow:
I made a solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the tube) and that would allow the turret to rotate.
I solved the fixing and rotation of the tower with a washer and a magnet, it also allows the tower to be removed, but it doesn't just fall off.
Main Gun:
Solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the tube.
PU-tube (d = 2,4 mm; D = 1,0 mm - needed machining - drill to D = 1,3 mm) and Cu-Tube (d = 1,5 mm; D = 1,3 mm).
Mai Gun:
Solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the gun Barrel) - placed in the Gun Tower.
Main Gun:
Solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the gun Barrel) - Assembling/Gluing Process.
Main Gun:
solution that allowed each tube to be independently moved in the vertical direction (change the angle of the gun Barrel) - after fixing and gluing.
Lifeboats (4x)- the injection molded part (Ogonek (C-180) Part Pos. No.: 39), has the contents cut out and the surfaces are sanded, the PE parts (MD 400001, Pos.: 35; 34 + 49) are cut out and sanded.
Painting Scheme:
Assembled Kit: Ogonek (C-180) Part Pos. No.: 39 and MD 400001, Pos.: 49 - Inside and Outside surfaces n White;
MD 400001, Pos.: 35; 34 - Natural Wood (the Pound Wood - needed to Check!).
After painting and varnishing, assemble and glue together the parts with the hull and deck wood finish of the lifeboat.
Lifeboats - the injection molded part (Ogonek (C-180), Pos. 30 and 31) has the contents cut out and the surfaces are sanded, the PE parts (MD 400001: Pos. 46; 45; 47 + 48 - 2x) are cut out and sanded.
Painting Scheme:
Assembled Kit: Ogonek (C-180), Pos. 30 and 31 + PE Pos. 47+ 48 - 2x - White;
MD 400001: Pos. 46; 45 - Natural Wood.
After painting and varnishing, assemble and glue together the parts with the hull and deck wood finish of the lifeboat.
The lifeboats have been cleaned and the PE parts cut out and cleaned.
They will have to wait for their sequel.
Priming, base tinting, painting, varnishing, etc.
All Set of the lifeboats have been cleaned and the PE parts cut out and cleaned.
They will have to wait for their sequel.
Priming, base tinting, painting, varnishing, etc.
I considered the options and found that I would not glue the body coils together until all the magazine covers and illuminator frames were in place and cleaned.
Illuminator Frame.
Now all the more monotonous work on this model, the edges of the porthole.
They are miniature and delicate.
You can't see without a magnifying glass.
Cut out and sand the edges clean.
Cut out, need sanding.
Illuminator Frame - Work in Progress.
I use a (CLOVER, Japan) stud to position the porthole and support the porthole from the inside (Hole) and prevent the frame from deforming.
For sanding, I use MIRKA Sanding Sponge #320, so that it is elastic and only sands the protruding chips.
Installation of Illuminator Frames.
As an auxiliary instrument when returning (CLOVER, Japan). It's a neat tool!
Adhesives: CAP CA and Bardahl Cyano 6.
Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks not cleaned.
Installation of Illuminator Frames.
As an auxiliary instrument when returning (CLOVER, Japan). It's a neat tool!
Adhesives: CAP CA and Bardahl Cyano 6.
Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks not cleaned.
Comparison of Hull sides of a Ship (view of the sides of the Ship's Hull).
Upper Part: Ship Hull without Illuminator Frames.
Lower Part: Ship Hull Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks cleaned.
Small details, however, add spaciousness and detail.
I hope that small details, however, add 3D spaciousness and detail.
I hope that under the color, they will also be visible!
Comparison of Hull sides of a Ship (view from the Bow of the Ship's Hull).
Upper Part: Ship Hull without Illuminator Frames.
Lower Part: Ship Hull Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks cleaned.
Comparison of Hull sides of a Ship (view of the Middle Section of the Ship).
Upper Part: Ship Hull without Illuminator Frames.
Lower Part: Ship Hull Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks cleaned.
Comparison of Hull sides of a Ship (view from the Stern Side of the Ship's Hull).
Upper Part: Ship Hull without Illuminator Frames.
Lower Part: Ship Hull Illuminator Frames are glued in place.
Glue marks cleaned.
The upper half of the ship's hull is waiting for its sequel.
Quietly and calmly, but it is important that the process is still moving forward!
Commentaires
6 28 August, 19:06
Album info
Instead of an introduction:
Randomly tidying up the house and throwing away the unnecessary stuff, I found one box, just in case, I looked inside, because it was clear that there was still something in it.
When I opened it, another box came out and inside it I discovered two boxes. Upon closer examination, it turned out that these are model boxes!
Ship models, both models in 1/400 scale: Aurora and Potemkin. I had acquired them at some point in the hope that I would someday put them back together, painted and at a new level.
One of my first big ship models from childhood. As a preschooler, the models were simply assembled from the box, at that time models were not painted or supplemented, there was nothing like that. It's good if you could buy something in the store (Made in USSR!).
Finding it again was a complete nostalgia hit.
Very peculiarly shaped, ships. Ships of their era (1900). Potemkin - the ship has a unique and beautiful shape, beautiful two main turrets, deck and superstructures.
I cleaned the sides of the body to put together for a visual, very nice shape.
I did the same with the cannon head caliber storms. They gave the shape and outline of a beautiful ship. Everything else was relatively miserable and cast of questionable quality.
The ship's deck was full of mold pusher marks, all large and eye-catching - it's horrible to think about the time spent on puttying and sanding, recreating the lines of the deck, etc.
I thought that I wouldn't throw it away, but I would make a mini base plate and pour the models with the grids as they are, all in completely transparent EPO mass.
I stayed to clean the body and the deck and the larger parts and did not dare to throw it away.
Next, I started looking in the "Scalemates" environment to see if there was anything in terms of upgrade kits for such an old model. And lo and behold, I found it, and then I started combing through the pages of manufacturers and sellers until I gathered everything I needed.
First, I took on "Potemkin" and got this set together.
And went to build again. Due to their size (1/72 U-9) etc., other works have been put behind painting.
Now a new project is on the table: "POTJOMKIN"
Such a positive experience for tinkering this fall, which helps to get away from other topics for a while.
I will also try to reflect the workflow as much as possible.