The build

Jens Andrée
Upper hull is obviously rather bent and will require some attention before it's usable... Luckily the bottom hull is perfect.

Kurt Reichert
Watching!

Jens Andrée
I wasn't going to start this build yet but I couldn't keep my hands off it and I've just finished the engine! I skipped ahead in the build because I was really keen on getting started with things like the engine and other internal parts. They were the reason why I bought the kit in the first place, and it's very detailed!
I don't think it matters that I'm a beginner because as long as you do one step at a time, and you clean each part thoroughly before glue and assembly, it'll come out as good, or bad, as I deserve. If I rush something there's a chance I make mistakes so I take it easy and cut, trim, sand, scrape and test-fit each part before reaching for the glue. I'm not going to win any price with my models just yet - and that's not why I'm doing it - but I'm really enjoying it and it activates my brain and I feel really creative!!!

Anyhow, I hope you can find something I do interesting, and whilst I learn the whole art of scale modelling 🙂

Clint Mecham
Looking forward on how it comes together for you. I haven't done a Takom kit yet. Love to hear how they ar to build and the detail level.

Jens Andrée
...and there's the engine assembled and primed!
First time using MIG primer and it wasn't without problems... It's a bit thicker than the Tamiya + 25% thinner I'm used to so my airbrush kept clogging up for some reason? I need to experiment a bit more with MIG paints because this model will be painted with the MIG colours that they've developed for these German tanks, and I hope they won't play up like the primer did... I will use cellulose thinner though to thin them down so with a bit of luck my airbrush won't complain about that combo? Works great with Tamiya paints.

My first impression about the Takom King Tiger is that it's very detailed and beautiful, but some sprues have a distinct part-line and even some flashing... Sprue Q is one culprit so far, but nothing I can't fix with a bit of sanding and scraping. That's enough building for today/tonight I think.

Clint Mecham
Thanks for the feedback on the quality of the kit Jens. Great stuff so far!

Larry E
Hi Jens, I don't think you should worry about the upper hull. A friend had the same problem, but it all came together nicely once he attached the rear plate and engine hatch. All the best - Looking forward to the rest...

Jens Andrée
Thanks guys!!!

I figured the upper hull would sort itself out when the read plate was installed so it's not something I worry about. It's understandable why it has bent a bit since the part is pretty extreme. Thick and rigid in one end and thin and "flimsy" in the other end. Much worse for those who received a bent lower hull... Should've been picked up when they pack the kit, but perhaps they don't check for such anomalies?
Anyway, we're here to tinker and build a kit and a bit of TLC isn't a big problem in the end of the day.

Jens Andrée
I decided to build most of the turret basket tonight since the other bits need painting before I can continue, and it was sometimes borderline masochistic to be honest!!! Lot's of tiny bits that had to snake through other parts, and it required a steady hand and a fair bit of patience...😉
I'm pleased with the end results and all parts are where they should! I did discover that the camera shows tiny blemishes that my naked eyes can't catch. Not even with my glasses that I recently started wearing when reading small things and when I do surface mount soldering. More scraping and sanding is required. The cement leaves a shiny surface which I sometimes mistake for a blemish, but it's down to experience I guess, which I don't have too much of yet.

As must say though that building a model with full interior is really fun! It completes the build and make the model make sense in more than one way.
Also it gives you knowledge on how the tank (in this case) is built from an mechanical perspective, and you're learning stuff you didn't previously know!
Before a couple of days ago I didn't know much about the Maybach HL230 P30 engine. Now after spending a whole evening just researching it, and trying to find pictures of it - and then building it - it makes it even more fun to put it in the model!

Some people have made really nice cutouts of their King Tigers to showcase the interior. I won't do this because I don't dare to cut away half of the hull... Not on my first "full interior" tank anyway. I will however display the tank with the upper hull next to the bottom hull, and the turret next to the upper hull. This gives you some chance to view the interior and all the hard work you've put into the build! I've got a plan how to do it, and I will probably incorporate tiny LEDs as well. Probably. We'll see when it's getting closer to be finished how I make the display?
This tank will not receive a lot of weathering, that's for sure. It'll be displayed in near new condition so you can see all the details.
All of this is obviously subject to change since a lot can happen throughout the build... hehe😉

If you're a beginner like me and are afraid to take on a complex build like this - don't worry. If you've built a couple of tanks and have worked out the different steps, this isn't much harder. You just have to be patient and careful and don't rush anything. Plan ahead and take one step at a time. If not you're going to learn an awful lot whilst building it!

Happy tinkering!

Clint Mecham
Very cool! Thanks for the review! Look forward to seeing how your plans for displaying the model come together too.

Jens Andrée
Clint Mecham - Thanks for your kind words!!!
I started thinking about how to display it even before I bought it and it's going to have to be displayed in separate pieces so you can see some of the interior. Bottom hull, upper hull, turret basket (without the "lid" ) and the turret roof. That makes four pieces. They will be mounted on stands next to each other on a base. I might also cut a mirror and glue it to the base so you can see underneath the different sections.
This is how I think at the moment but it's obviously subject to change when I have the finished piece in my hands. I might add some subtle LED lights as well to illuminate the model? We'll see.
It's a beast of a kit and some sections take an awful long time, but it's all fun so it doesn't matter if it takes 100 hours! The weather is rather poorly anyway 😛

Andy Podmore
Looking good Jens. I've just watched the same kit built on YouTube on Andy's Hobby's channel and he did the same thing when it came to mounting each section side by side. Looked really cool. Looking forward to seeing more

Jens Andrée
I should add that the tank will not be heavily weathered - quite the opposite actually. Almost factory new, but with some mileage. It's more of a display of the beautiful complete tank (hopefully!?) and in an exploded view for viewing.

Some others have cut apart the hull and done a cutaway display. The ones I've seen were all awesome, but I'm not comfortable in cutting apart my first full interior tank, and one I'm really making an effort with.

I think we all have our own influences and dreams of beautiful dioramas we'd like to do with our scale models, but this particular one is best displayed in a way where you can see the interior detail. That's my view anyway.

Andy Podmore
Totally agree with you there. I'm totally new to the hobby again myself after 30 yrs and I've never built any armour kits but after watching YouTube vids I'm itching to give them a try.

Kerry COX
This looks to be an amazing kit Jens. 👍
The engine is a most impressive build all on it's own. great work there. 🙂
What will you end up doing with the motor. / will you have it displayed as a separate item mounted next to the Tiger or what. ?
I am impressed. 😉 👍

Clint Mecham
I am fascinated by the LED idea. I look forward to seeing how it works.

Jens Andrée
Kerry Cox - the motor will be installed in the engine bay. Sadly most of it will be hidden so to a certain extent all the work you're putting in will never be seen again, but we who built these models know what's inside them and how much work we put into it😉
In the future I might buy a similar King Tiger from Takom and do a cutaway display model? It must be easier to cut apart a second model I think?! Who knows...
Thanks for your kind comments!!! 🙂

Jens Andrée
Clint Mecham - as someone who also tinkers with electronics I've got a lot of smd components at hand. My smallest leds measure 2x1 mm and they can "easily" be mounted inside Bosch lamps etc if you want. I write "easily" though since it's a pain to wire up as you can imagine, but if you use slightly larger leds, 8x5 mm e.g. life is suddenly a lot easier.
In this model I'm thinking more down the line of lighting the interior of the model with hidden leds rather than making exterior lights work.
If you're really masochistic you can probably add backlight to dials etc, but now we're talking extreme stuff.

I don't want to make it into a disco or anything, just light up the interior so you both see it better and make it look interesting. I hope...😉

Jens Andrée
Just uploaded three pictures of my paint disaster. I'm old enough to plan first before doing something stupid, and I thought I'd planned properly - but I made a HUGE mistake thinking AMMO of Mig acrylics was the same as Tamiya acrylics. It turns out the term "acrylic" is used rather loosely and it can mean quite a few different things in real life.

To cut a long story short - DON'T use any other thinner than their own on AMMO of Mig paints!!! It'll turn into a disaster faster than you can blink an eye.
Also it's clogging up the airbrush the whole time throughout painting and it's horrible to clean. Cleaning my airbrush after using Tamiya + cellulose thinner takes seconds whereas it can take up to 10 minutes to clean the airbrush after it's had AMMO of Mig through it.

I know it can be made to work, and I've this morning found one process that leaves an acceptable finish on the model - but cleaning is terrible and dry time is far too slow. As it is right now I will finish the King Tiger with my AMMO of Mig paints as I've planned, but I won't do another model again with these paints - unless someone shows me a magical process that somehow makes it work in a similar fashion to Tamiya or Vallejo.

So sorry that I've got no build update but I spent all of last night - ALL of it - trying to salvage the situation and to figure out why it went so horribly wrong...
Tonight I've been getting my confidence back after yesterdays fiasco by painting a Tiger I with Tamiya paints and I'm glad I did that 🙂

Hopefully I've got more progress tomorrow to show you?!

Once again, thanks so much for all of your kind comments!!!

Kerry COX
Jens. If this may help in the paint department and getting good results, no matter what brand you use.
I personally like thinning ALL my paints, acrylic or enamel, with 'acetone'.
It is the 'thinner' used by all automotive spray painters for the reduction of viscosity in all paint types and is brilliant for dissolving all paints from a clogged air brush without damaging any of the internal plastic seals or 'o' rings.
By the way. 🙂 Your build has convinced me to buy the kit, and as it is not all THAT expensive, two will be needed, and, as you mentioned, if a 'cut away' display was to be achieved, it would not be a bad thing to have two going for you. 🙂
And everything you have done so far is being keenly and anxiously observed with great enthusiasm. 👍 👍 👍
There are some 'You tube 'builds' out there, but so rushed it is impossible to 'see' what is being done or the 'issues' and their rectification. 🙁

Cheers mate and good work. 🙂 👍

Jens Andrée
The project came to a stop for two reasons. First I needed Ammo by Mig thinner for the paint. This I discovered whilst learning to paint with AMMO acrylics, and also why the white paint on the engine looked like it did...
The second reason was that I accidentally glued the turret roof on in the spur of a moment whilst modelling away and not having my brain connected... I thought about cutting it open so you could see inside the turret but it wouldn't look right with the rest of the build. I also contemplated ordering new parts and redo the turret, but I felt that was too much hassle...
In the end I decided to live with the fact and write it off to learn by doing. I will try to put a small mirror under the turret in the display to showcase some of the interior. With a bit of luck it'll work, but it'll require interior LEDs to be installed but that's super easy.

The build in on again but I have to admit that the AMMO paints are much harder to use than Tamiya acrylics and honestly I don't know if I'll ever use the AMMO paints again for this very reason. I know they're trying to be "100% acrylic and non-toxic" but there's a limit what you can take when there are so much better products on the market - and in my own collection. Another lesson learned I guess😉

Kerry COX
Jens. I admire your honesty and determination in the face of what you have had to deal with. 👍
I have really looked closely at what you have posted and for such a so called 'well engineered' kit, I was not happy to see such large gaps on the joins, especially the breach mechanism of the gun. !!
Your recovery was a treat to see, well done.
If I may ask a question about your surface prepping for the paint application. :-O
I have seen that 'separation' you spoke of, that looks like the 'orange peel' effect, with some of my attempts with various paints, and my fault was that I had NOT given all the parts a wash with a tooth brush, prior to assembly, in tepid water with some gentle dish washing detergent. !
There are oils that will come out of plastics that is really hard to overcome and will show up when paints are applied, a real bummer, and just a bit annoying to remedy.
Having said all that. I am most impressed with all your showing and describing as you go. 👍
Something I will be coming back to as I proceed with mine, once it gets here. :-~
A slow job I will be doing now I have read your advice on some of the minor 'annoyances' mate.
Thanks for the heads up on what I may have to deal with.
I love your work. 🙂
Cheers. 👍 🙂 🙂 🙂

Jens Andrée
Thanks for your kind words Kerry!!! 🙂
I'm a firm believer in "learn by doing" and admitting your faults helps you to remember them then next time. Also it could benefit others from doing the same mistakes so why not share the failures as well as the successes?!

I also initially thought that the problem I had with the AMMO paint was due to unclean surfaces but I had cleaned them and when testing the paint on various plastic items after the failure this turned out to not be the case. The problem with AMMO by Mig paints is that they're "proper" acrylic paints, i.e. no solvents in them like Tamiya acrylics. Tamiya paint you can almost pour on with a spoon and it still looks great when it dries but that's not how AMMO works. You have to spray it on in super fine layers - many layers! - and thus building up the paint. If you try to spray the next layer before it's completely dry you get the orange peel effect, and god forbid that you try to cover the piece with just one spray because that'll really ruin the day...

I should've watched a few instructional videos on AMMO paint beforehand but if you don't know about the problem, how are you going to search for the solution?

I've since learned how to use the AMMO by Mig paint and I get an acceptable result, but you can forget the smoothness that you get from Tamiya acrylics thinned with cellulose thinner and if that's the cost then I will live with things being a bit smelly. Tamiya + thinner also dries in a matter of minutes whereas the AMMO paint requires many many hours, unless you're creative with a hairdryer - which I don't have one due to not having that much hair 😉

What I do like about the AMMO acrylics is that their colours scale really well with regards to reflections etc, and they've made excellent mixes for the historical colours I wanted for this build. Tamiya isn't that far behind and I'm capable to mix my own paint so this is probably the first - and only - time I will use the AMMO paint.
I've also tried to use the AMMO paint with brushes on figures and you have the same problem. It just doesn't bite into the plastic so it pools in small tiny droplets which gives you an orange peel effect.

Could be great if painting 1945 Wehrmacht combat camo oranges but I don't think they were that common to be honest... hehe... 😛

Cheers,
Jens

Jens Andrée
Kerry, your observations about the poor fit on some details are correct and almost made me lose the spirit at first because I thought this was going to be "the perfect" kit...
Don't get me wrong because in most areas it is a fantastic and well designed kit with almost perfect fit - but all that goes out the window when you find some parts that just doesn't fit and/or have terrible seams that needs filling.
I don't mind going all the way in trying to fix everything that's not perfect, and to a certain extent it's part of the hobby - but the parts must fit if you ask me, otherwise it's like going back to the 80's and the wonky kits we had back then...

I've read about other problems with these King Tiger kits where some have had major problems getting the road wheels aligned correctly and others with warped hulls. I've had to ream out the holes on the right side of the lower hull in order for the suspension arms to fit properly and that was down to the right side "scale armour" piece not fitting 100% properly down into the hull (which I didn't see) and it was too late to correct after the cement had dried. It was easy to fix when knowing what the fault was but if you don't see it and just push the suspension arms into the hull you're at risk of having slightly skewed road wheels.

If I'm going to add more complaints I have to bring up the build instructions too. Being used to Tamiya style instructions this was not a pleasant surprise because all they've done is to export 3D rendered black & white (mostly just white) images that are really hard to follow since sometimes it's a guesswork to figure out where some parts goes - and with a full interior kit one single error has dramatic consequences - which you won't be able to recover from! This is partly why this kit is taking so long time to build - together with the fact that you have to paint sub assemblies all the time, with paint that needs to dry overnight - for every layer.

I still think it's a fantastic kit and I will build more Takom kits in the future. Perhaps even with full interior again. They do require a whole different kind of planning and execution and it's not a kit you tinker with whilst watching TV for example because you have to be 100% focused on what you're doing.
I only hope that my vision for this tank is something I can pull off in the end of the day because done right it can look awesome - but it only takes one thing wrong for the whole kit to look wonky, and it's only down to me putting it together so it's going to take some time before I'm finished - but it's a great journey and the sub assemblies are looking great - even though putty was involved.

I've also mixed some Tamiya basic putty in a bottle of Tamiya fast cement (which was half empty) so I have a more "liquid" cement to apply with the internal brush in the bottle, and that's something they should sell because it really floats into badly joined parts, it dries a lot quicker - and it dries a lot harder! Makes sanding much easier and application is a breeze! I don't know if it'll go off in the bottle or not, but putty from the tube isn't super easy to work with on small details, and I like to fill all the tiny cracks and joints that aren't perfect. Also having putty ready without any mess in an instant is a nice feature too!

I'm finally getting the AMMO thinner tomorrow so I can get the paint sorted and after that there should be regular updates again on this build!

Cheers,
Jens

Kerry COX
Jens. Your vivid description of the pit falls have me wondering IF my kit will be the same. (worried).
In the 'reviews' I have watched on Youtube, there has not really been any mentioned of the misfits and extra work needed doing if the suspension and road wheel alignment is to turn out well. Mmmmm !
The thinning out of the Tamiya putty with the liquid glue is a brilliant way to get that 'flow in' to the recess ability you talked about. I AM impressed and will give that a definite thumbs up for ingenuity mate. Very smart application and a great result. 👍
The paint effect you mentioned with having to do MANY layers is something I have had a problem with too, being so used to just lay up what you like with Tamiya but be a bit more controlled with paints I am yet to understand their peculiarities. :-~
For the size of the model the price was what stunned me a bit. But now I have seen the drop in price here, I have cancelled my order with "Luckymodels" from Hong Kong and will see what is on offer at the competition this year at the Queensland Model and Hobby Expo, and I am wanting the "Voyager" brass PE for the 'to scale ' skirts and fenders. But I am wanting the Takom one, as it has been well presented in their sales pitch, but for the right price. Grrrrr 🙁
Thank you for a most informative post Jens. I will be looking out for all the issues you highlighted when I tackle mine. So now you have all of us fascinated by what your doing. 🙂 🙂 🙂
Cheers mate. 👍

Jens Andrée
Kerry, after I encountered my first problem with the Takom King Tiger I searched the net for any issues with those kits to see if there were any common and usual problems with the kit, and although many had a few minor issues, few had any bigger issues. This is what I found out from searching anyway.
Some people might not admit that they'd run into problems and some might've caused the problems themselves - which isn't hard to do with all those parts, but a bad kit it ain't if you are careful - but there will be a couple of minor things you are going to have to correct.

I don't think I'm responsible for putting any parts in the wrong place and therefore causing issues further down the road, but I've sure taken my sweet time with every piece and sub-assembly to get them right because the instructions are sometimes unclear.
I wish they could've released a pdf of the instructions so you could zoom in on some details (and the printed instruction clearly demonstrate that it is a digital instruction) but I've searched high and low without finding it...

Apart from a few minor issues - and one big one on the gun breach, it's been pure joy to build this King Tiger! I wish I hadn't glued the roof on but modelling is a moment when you can sit down and clear your thoughts and when you have to change the order of some steps because of unforeseen things you can miss something you'd previously planned. This was an error on my part but I'll live with it.

I've found building all the interior details very entertaining and it gives a whole new depth and perspective to the mechanical wonders we try to recreate, and from a "bang for the buck" perspective it is a cheap model if you look at all the hours you get out of it compared to a simple kit - but 100% perfect it isn't and with all of the marketing they've done that's what I, and everybody else expected, hence the critique...

I still think you should go for the kit because it is a beautiful kit - certainly the best King Tiger out there that I know of, but "some putty required" sadly.

I don't care that some, or most, of the details are hidden when you're done because I want them to be as perfect as I can because that's why I'm doing this build. It's for my enjoyment and not anything else - and I would know if I'd cheated somewhere and that's not a path I'm going to take. Perhaps I will skip certain steps in future "full interior" builds, but not on this one.

My biggest recommendation is to not go for the AMMO by Mig paint unless you're already using them because this has been the biggest headache. Some people are using them and obviously made it work so there's not reason why I shouldn't either - but damn how much better the Tamiya paints are!!!

I hope Mr. Postman has my package with the AMMO thinner this afternoon so I can start using it tonight!

Cheers,
Jens

Kerry COX
Jens. 🙂 Once again. A superb essay in what this hobby is all about.👍.
You have a gift with words I am happy to read and accordingly, I gain a better perspective of what lays ahead for me. 🙂
I too have search high and wide for a set of instruction that would show a clearer definition of what to do and when, but like you, nothing as yet, but I am sure something will crop up somewhere. (x)
So, in the meantime, as I patiently wait for the one weekend I live for, I will watch all the videos again and based on what you have posted, work out some sort of plan for showing off all it's attributes. 🙂
I am sorely tempted to buy two just for the hell of it, as it is something I do with all the models I build is buy two. Maybe and maybe not, a bad thing, but as I have just me and my hobby, I do spoil myself a LOT. hahahahahaha L0L
Are you going to get the working track kit or go with the boxed units.?
Besides, My son said he would gladly have all my works when I move to the other side, and with the passion he has for the hobby too, I know that my legacy will not end up on some rubbish tip.
😉

Jens Andrée
Thank you! 🙂

I would love to buy two of each and earlier this year I bought some extra kits for the kids to try but they found them a bit too complicated. Well, perhaps not complicated but they took way too long time to complete - and their only influence was their dad who spent hours upon hours just sanding the damn road wheels!?!? 😛

It'll come with time I think because they're still only 11 and 13 years old - but when I found a place that was dumping all of their "Lego" tanks (the brand was COBI) for next to nothing, I bought almost 30 tanks for us to build together and even the 13 year old - who according to himself is "too old for LEGO" - was building LEGO like never before!!! 😄
I payed less than $200 for all that LEGO so it was a fantastic deal, and we're now building a huge diorama together - and I think in time they both will have another go at scale modelling for sure.
The COBI tanks and airplanes are actually really well made and they were a joy to build because they were way more complicated than the usual LEGO kits. Perfect for both kids and dads to build because honestly, you're never too old for LEGO! 😉

For tracks I bought Friulmodel ATL-16 since this was going to be a special build with all the bells and whistles, and it was a gamble since I've never used them before, but they are now assembled and looking fantastic.
I've obviously yet to mount them on a tank but they have a really realistic sag due to the weight - but they were a bit on the expensive side when you factor in shipping...

If I could I would put working tracks on all of my scale models because of several reasons, but some of the rigid "link by link" plastic tracks are looking as good. Just way more work making them look good and zero chance of changing them, or the look, afterwards.

I also want to build a bigger tank in the future. 1/16 at least - and I was really keen on the new Tamiya Jagdpanther they just released!!! Sadly when I had a look at the kit I was disappointed because it's just a gutted R/C kit - and there's not a whole lot to build apart from the suspension. The rest are just ready ready made pieces, but the end results are fantastic. Too much money though for just sitting on a shelf... or is it?
I do prefer to build the whole kit and not just screw three large pieces together and call it "done".

There are some bigger kits but I've got more than a few tanks waiting to be built so perhaps next year?
Larger scale should mean even more higher quality and detail?

Anyhow, many thanks for your kind words Kerry! I hope you do get your own Takom King Tiger soon and then know what you're doing for quite a few weeks ahead 😉

Cheers and take care!
Jens