Bf-109G-6 - Bartel's 'Marga'
Commentaires
22 4 August 2019, 10:54
Tom O
Thanks, Michael. Any questions about anything I do, techniques, tools, ect. just ask I'm happy to share!
Thanks, Michael. Any questions about anything I do, techniques, tools, ect. just ask I'm happy to share!
4 August 2019, 18:14
Sergej I
Following, looking really good so far. Will use as a reference on my Hartmann's Gustav.
Following, looking really good so far. Will use as a reference on my Hartmann's Gustav.
4 August 2019, 18:35
Michael Hickey
Thanks Luftfanatic, I'll be curious to see how well the construction of the DB engine goes, I plan to put an Eduard Brassin engine set Bf 109G-10/U4 engine in my Eduard Bf 109G-10, and put her on a neat little dio.🙂
Thanks Luftfanatic, I'll be curious to see how well the construction of the DB engine goes, I plan to put an Eduard Brassin engine set Bf 109G-10/U4 engine in my Eduard Bf 109G-10, and put her on a neat little dio.🙂
5 August 2019, 02:03
Michael Hickey
You're work on the cockpit is amazing, and those rudder pedals, beautiful.👍
You're work on the cockpit is amazing, and those rudder pedals, beautiful.👍
5 August 2019, 03:49
Tom O
Lesson learned. Don't use the brown coffee filter paper to make your seatbelt fabric from. Simply put, the paper really soaks up the paint and gives off a very "ragged", hairy look... I went back to my old stand-by (Tamiya Kabuki Tape) and probably won't go back, either. The real test will be when I mount the seatbelts and see just how easy or difficult they are to manipulate into haphazard positions without losing any of the drybrush detail.
Lesson learned. Don't use the brown coffee filter paper to make your seatbelt fabric from. Simply put, the paper really soaks up the paint and gives off a very "ragged", hairy look... I went back to my old stand-by (Tamiya Kabuki Tape) and probably won't go back, either. The real test will be when I mount the seatbelts and see just how easy or difficult they are to manipulate into haphazard positions without losing any of the drybrush detail.
17 August 2019, 15:38
Björn Svedberg
Love your attention to detail, and the progress pictures! 👍 Following. 🙂
Love your attention to detail, and the progress pictures! 👍 Following. 🙂
19 August 2019, 05:35
Tom O
Thanks for the good words, everyone! I'm really impressed with the fitment so far for this detail set. Despite how small everything is I haven't lost any parts (miraculously!) and everything is just progressing along as it should. Nearly finished with the instrument panel - I just have the Revi sight to assemble/attach and that will be done. Then I'll do some fitment tests in the fuselage before I move on to the radio compartment...
Thanks for the good words, everyone! I'm really impressed with the fitment so far for this detail set. Despite how small everything is I haven't lost any parts (miraculously!) and everything is just progressing along as it should. Nearly finished with the instrument panel - I just have the Revi sight to assemble/attach and that will be done. Then I'll do some fitment tests in the fuselage before I move on to the radio compartment...
20 August 2019, 20:27
Tom O
The cockpit is now complete, I added a few bits, and now the major components need to be assembled into it's box-like enclosure, but I've detoured a little and decided to start working up the radio compartment. Before I can check the fitment of the completed cockpit, I need to add the radio compartment and check it for fitment since its completely enclosed. Once that's done, I'll know about how much clearance (if any) there will be between the instrument panel and the ventral guns, because I'll need to scratchbuild something behind the instrument panel to mount the Revi gunsight to: The gunsight seats into the instrument panel, however its a little loose, and you'll notice from the pics its terribly tiny, so I don't want to chance any disasters!
The cockpit is now complete, I added a few bits, and now the major components need to be assembled into it's box-like enclosure, but I've detoured a little and decided to start working up the radio compartment. Before I can check the fitment of the completed cockpit, I need to add the radio compartment and check it for fitment since its completely enclosed. Once that's done, I'll know about how much clearance (if any) there will be between the instrument panel and the ventral guns, because I'll need to scratchbuild something behind the instrument panel to mount the Revi gunsight to: The gunsight seats into the instrument panel, however its a little loose, and you'll notice from the pics its terribly tiny, so I don't want to chance any disasters!
26 August 2019, 08:06
Tom O
Photo 58. When I started working up the radio compartment the first thing I did was a dry-fit. Frankly none of the pieces fitted well with each other, and that was the prelude to what was coming down the line. It's not as well-thought out as the cockpit. First, the compartment sidewalls, even when they were pressed into the fuselage sidewalls left some overlap, far too much to be able to close up the fuselage when the time came, so I fitted them into their positions (the Eduard kit has a raised impression on the fuselage wall where the radio compartment sidewall seats up for ease). Reducing the sidewalls also meant reducing the room inside the fuselage as well, which in turn meant a potential challenge getting the battery and auxiliary frame mount settled inside. I had to tape the sidewalls together loosely enough to squeeze the auxiliary frame in, a bigger challenge since I had already glued the battery to it. For those out there planning on doing the radio compartment on the eduard kit, you'll want to consider the assembly steps in the instruction sheet more as recommendations than gospel, I'm afraid. After the components haves been painted/completed, it's best to first fit the auxiliary rack to the starboard sidewall using the opposite sidewall as the guide, and be prepared for the possibility that the rear attachment point won't meet flush to the side wall edge for gluing. Looking closely at photo 58 and you'll notice the attachment point sits away and over the lip; I had to sand off a good portion of that to get it to sit flush in the fuselage, thankfully it won't be seen anyway when the fuselage is buttoned up.
Photo 58. When I started working up the radio compartment the first thing I did was a dry-fit. Frankly none of the pieces fitted well with each other, and that was the prelude to what was coming down the line. It's not as well-thought out as the cockpit. First, the compartment sidewalls, even when they were pressed into the fuselage sidewalls left some overlap, far too much to be able to close up the fuselage when the time came, so I fitted them into their positions (the Eduard kit has a raised impression on the fuselage wall where the radio compartment sidewall seats up for ease). Reducing the sidewalls also meant reducing the room inside the fuselage as well, which in turn meant a potential challenge getting the battery and auxiliary frame mount settled inside. I had to tape the sidewalls together loosely enough to squeeze the auxiliary frame in, a bigger challenge since I had already glued the battery to it. For those out there planning on doing the radio compartment on the eduard kit, you'll want to consider the assembly steps in the instruction sheet more as recommendations than gospel, I'm afraid. After the components haves been painted/completed, it's best to first fit the auxiliary rack to the starboard sidewall using the opposite sidewall as the guide, and be prepared for the possibility that the rear attachment point won't meet flush to the side wall edge for gluing. Looking closely at photo 58 and you'll notice the attachment point sits away and over the lip; I had to sand off a good portion of that to get it to sit flush in the fuselage, thankfully it won't be seen anyway when the fuselage is buttoned up.
6 September 2019, 19:19
Tom O
Second step, after the glue has cured on the auxiliary rack, will be to attach the photoetch wiring to the sidewall BEFORE putting the battery box on top of the rack. I made the mistake of 'going it alone' and drilling out a small hole to fit some copper wire through from behind in order to reach over to the battery box. Had I used the photo-etch wire instead I would have had less headache – in point of fact, I could've attached the photo-etch wire at the very beginning and it probably would've been even better! The reason I say this now is that, once the photo etch wire is in place you can set the battery box in position, glue it in from behind and underneath, then gently push the photo-etch into place ensuring a solid connection to the battery posts. When everything is buttoned up inside its very cramped and difficult to see most of the detail anyway, even with a penlight.
Second step, after the glue has cured on the auxiliary rack, will be to attach the photoetch wiring to the sidewall BEFORE putting the battery box on top of the rack. I made the mistake of 'going it alone' and drilling out a small hole to fit some copper wire through from behind in order to reach over to the battery box. Had I used the photo-etch wire instead I would have had less headache – in point of fact, I could've attached the photo-etch wire at the very beginning and it probably would've been even better! The reason I say this now is that, once the photo etch wire is in place you can set the battery box in position, glue it in from behind and underneath, then gently push the photo-etch into place ensuring a solid connection to the battery posts. When everything is buttoned up inside its very cramped and difficult to see most of the detail anyway, even with a penlight.
6 September 2019, 19:20
Bryn Crandell
Looking good so far. I have this kit in the stash. This will be some inspration for me when I build mine.
Looking good so far. I have this kit in the stash. This will be some inspration for me when I build mine.
18 September 2019, 12:03
Tom O
Thanks Bryn! I'll continue to post pics and commentary where I think it would be useful to the group. Feel free to ask me anything about the construction, materials, etc I'm always happy to share and I do like getting tips from others as well!
Thanks Bryn! I'll continue to post pics and commentary where I think it would be useful to the group. Feel free to ask me anything about the construction, materials, etc I'm always happy to share and I do like getting tips from others as well!
18 September 2019, 22:17
Jim J
Looks awesome so far. I haven't mustered up the courage to tackle any of the Super Experten 109's or 190's yet. You're really doing justice to Eric Hartman's plane. I'm following along closely. Thanks for sharing the details.
Looks awesome so far. I haven't mustered up the courage to tackle any of the Super Experten 109's or 190's yet. You're really doing justice to Eric Hartman's plane. I'm following along closely. Thanks for sharing the details.
19 September 2019, 00:54
Tom O
I departed from the detail kit and added some control cabling into the radio compartment as this would be prevalent in the real thing - and the fact I've got some pics to prove it helped, too! They add a nice touch. As mentioned before, when I dry-fitted the fuselage halves together there was a considerable gap (~0.4mm) because the lips of the radio compartment sidewalls extended past their respective fuselage halves, bowing them out slightly. These sidewalls were a struggle to firmly seat into their respective fuselage sides fully; fortunately the resin wasn't allowed to cure for too long in order to allow a little 'give' in the build. Naturally I shaved the top and bottom lips of the sidewalls after fixing them into the fuselage to get a better fit. While this allowed me to get the top spine seam fully welded, the underside refused to play ball and I still had a slight gap of (now) 0.1mm to seal up with some Gunze Sangyo dissolved putty. We'll see what the finished result looks like after I do some slight sanding to remove the offset and excess plastic cement. Photos forthcoming...
I departed from the detail kit and added some control cabling into the radio compartment as this would be prevalent in the real thing - and the fact I've got some pics to prove it helped, too! They add a nice touch. As mentioned before, when I dry-fitted the fuselage halves together there was a considerable gap (~0.4mm) because the lips of the radio compartment sidewalls extended past their respective fuselage halves, bowing them out slightly. These sidewalls were a struggle to firmly seat into their respective fuselage sides fully; fortunately the resin wasn't allowed to cure for too long in order to allow a little 'give' in the build. Naturally I shaved the top and bottom lips of the sidewalls after fixing them into the fuselage to get a better fit. While this allowed me to get the top spine seam fully welded, the underside refused to play ball and I still had a slight gap of (now) 0.1mm to seal up with some Gunze Sangyo dissolved putty. We'll see what the finished result looks like after I do some slight sanding to remove the offset and excess plastic cement. Photos forthcoming...
13 October 2019, 22:06
Tom O
Thanks, Christian. I've only recently come back to my project, hence the delay in response. For all of you out there in scalemates-land, beware! I found a moulding error in this detail set from Eduard (shock-horror-gasp!). Reference the last 4 pics for my recent discovery...
Thanks, Christian. I've only recently come back to my project, hence the delay in response. For all of you out there in scalemates-land, beware! I found a moulding error in this detail set from Eduard (shock-horror-gasp!). Reference the last 4 pics for my recent discovery...
9 December 2019, 19:25
Tom O
I've placed all of the components onto the engine up to but not including the engine bearers at this point, because putting them on in the order as described in the instructions would've severely restricted my ability to patch up/repair any boo-boos I might have made in the process, especially with the bearers in the way. The next piece of this is going to be even trickier than what I've had to contend with because there are a series of lines I have to fabricate from wire to attach to the motor that go under AND over the bearers, so I'll need to pause and think carefully how I proceed.
Eduard makes a very competitive cockpit so far as detail, accuracy and fitment goes, while their radio compartment, surprisingly accurate as it is, desperately needs to be reviewed for fitment issues, especially since this is supposedly designed for their own kit.
The level of detail in the engine kit thus far is certainly impressive, and reasonably accurate as well, but the fact that none of the pipework (R52, R53, R54), let alone one of the pipes (R53) was molded backwards(!) and countless other fitment issues elsewhere on the engine itself continue to plague me during the build process, which raises some fears about the final fitment/alignment between the engine, the engine bearers and more importantly the firewall. I wonder if the blast guards have sufficient clearance to the MG17 barrels, and ultimately if it will indeed fit into the compartment its designed to fill.
Stay tuned. More to discover, more to tell.
I've placed all of the components onto the engine up to but not including the engine bearers at this point, because putting them on in the order as described in the instructions would've severely restricted my ability to patch up/repair any boo-boos I might have made in the process, especially with the bearers in the way. The next piece of this is going to be even trickier than what I've had to contend with because there are a series of lines I have to fabricate from wire to attach to the motor that go under AND over the bearers, so I'll need to pause and think carefully how I proceed.
Eduard makes a very competitive cockpit so far as detail, accuracy and fitment goes, while their radio compartment, surprisingly accurate as it is, desperately needs to be reviewed for fitment issues, especially since this is supposedly designed for their own kit.
The level of detail in the engine kit thus far is certainly impressive, and reasonably accurate as well, but the fact that none of the pipework (R52, R53, R54), let alone one of the pipes (R53) was molded backwards(!) and countless other fitment issues elsewhere on the engine itself continue to plague me during the build process, which raises some fears about the final fitment/alignment between the engine, the engine bearers and more importantly the firewall. I wonder if the blast guards have sufficient clearance to the MG17 barrels, and ultimately if it will indeed fit into the compartment its designed to fill.
Stay tuned. More to discover, more to tell.
27 December 2019, 23:50
Tom O
In the meantime, I hope everyone out there in Scalemates-land had a memorable and peaceful Christmas, as have I. I promised myself I would devote some time to my G-6 and I've done that now, even though I plan on doing more in the coming days 🙂.
In the meantime, I hope everyone out there in Scalemates-land had a memorable and peaceful Christmas, as have I. I promised myself I would devote some time to my G-6 and I've done that now, even though I plan on doing more in the coming days 🙂.
27 December 2019, 23:52
Tom O
Completed build - enjoy the pics. Lets hope the next model doesn't take me two years to build!
Completed build - enjoy the pics. Lets hope the next model doesn't take me two years to build!
21 April 2021, 18:46
Album info
The topic for my Messerschmitt initially was one of Erich Hartmann's mounts while he was serving in Russia with JG52, however in the past 15 months I've had a change of mind and decided on Heinrich Bartel's 'Marga'; I liked the contrasting camouflage scheme and white ID markings made this a more interesting subject that Hartmann's at the time.