Hírfolyam
Shane Lieffers
My box has model number 607-60 but otherwise appears to be identical to the one listed here.
My box has model number 607-60 but otherwise appears to be identical to the one listed here.
28 December, 01:10
Curtis Caden
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4 képek
244th Air Regiment Kawasaki KI-61-1 TonyÚj: 28 December, 00:55 1:72
Projekt: Kawasaki Ki-61-I Tony
1 28 December, 00:54
Curtis Caden
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11 24 December, 14:44
Curtis Caden
Thank you Spanjaard. The 1955 Indianapolis 500 pace car was a Chevrolet Bel Air convertible with a 265 small block V8 engine. The 1955 Bel Air pace car was significant because it featured a new small block engine design that became very successful.
Thank you Spanjaard. The 1955 Indianapolis 500 pace car was a Chevrolet Bel Air convertible with a 265 small block V8 engine. The 1955 Bel Air pace car was significant because it featured a new small block engine design that became very successful.
25 December, 18:30
Curtis Caden
Thank you Rui S and Martin Oostrom. Y'all need to check out my '55 Chevy Bel Air Street Rod. Building the AMT was quite a bit different compared to the Revell. The '55 is a good looking car and I am glad to see people interested in these models.
Thank you Rui S and Martin Oostrom. Y'all need to check out my '55 Chevy Bel Air Street Rod. Building the AMT was quite a bit different compared to the Revell. The '55 is a good looking car and I am glad to see people interested in these models.
28 December, 00:40
Curtis Caden
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7 13 October, 20:29
Curtis Caden
The Amtronic is the car of the future as AMT thought it would look like back in 1969. AMT created this iconic concept model kit after a Detroit car show. The Amtronic is actually two vehicles in one. The two-place forward section could separate and travel on its own. For longer trips, the rear "station wagon" module would attach to the forward section for significantly more capacity. The Amtronic has aircraft-like retractable wheels. For longer range transport, this vehicle would engage a magnetic rail system that would allow the car to be propelled several hundred miles per hour. The car would generate its own lift thrust using two turbine-powered lift fans while engaged on the magnetic rail system.
The Amtronic is the car of the future as AMT thought it would look like back in 1969. AMT created this iconic concept model kit after a Detroit car show. The Amtronic is actually two vehicles in one. The two-place forward section could separate and travel on its own. For longer trips, the rear "station wagon" module would attach to the forward section for significantly more capacity. The Amtronic has aircraft-like retractable wheels. For longer range transport, this vehicle would engage a magnetic rail system that would allow the car to be propelled several hundred miles per hour. The car would generate its own lift thrust using two turbine-powered lift fans while engaged on the magnetic rail system.
14 October, 17:05
Curtis Caden
Thank you Gorby and Robert Podkonski! I bought this at model swap show this past spring. Just had to have it. The only difficulty is that with retractable wheels, I have no way to keep them in the down position. Still not sure how to pose it on the shelf. I recently added some photos with the mag-lev track.
Thank you Gorby and Robert Podkonski! I bought this at model swap show this past spring. Just had to have it. The only difficulty is that with retractable wheels, I have no way to keep them in the down position. Still not sure how to pose it on the shelf. I recently added some photos with the mag-lev track.
15 October, 00:02
Bozzer
Yep, I gotta admit it, this is a neat little kit! I'll have to keep an eye out for one.
Yep, I gotta admit it, this is a neat little kit! I'll have to keep an eye out for one.
20 October, 21:30
Curtis Caden
Thank you Ben M and Bozzer. I saw another one for sale at our local IPMS Chapter in Lorain Ohio Sunday. I do like the futuristic stuff. Bozzer I did check out Ollie's and only found a good selection of Atlantis models. I will have to keep checking for those trucks you mentioned. atlantis-models.com/
Thank you Ben M and Bozzer. I saw another one for sale at our local IPMS Chapter in Lorain Ohio Sunday. I do like the futuristic stuff. Bozzer I did check out Ollie's and only found a good selection of Atlantis models. I will have to keep checking for those trucks you mentioned. atlantis-models.com/
22 October, 12:47
Bozzer
Curtis, definitely keep checking. I believe that Walmart have some kits at Christmas too, though I've never seen them at my old local store. But definitely, Ollie's have them around this time. Last time, I got the Ratfink International and the trailer, for $20 a pop. I've also had the KW123, International 4300 and the AMT Chrome tanker trailer, all for $20 a pop. It's definitely worth checking out. 👍
Curtis, definitely keep checking. I believe that Walmart have some kits at Christmas too, though I've never seen them at my old local store. But definitely, Ollie's have them around this time. Last time, I got the Ratfink International and the trailer, for $20 a pop. I've also had the KW123, International 4300 and the AMT Chrome tanker trailer, all for $20 a pop. It's definitely worth checking out. 👍
22 October, 16:37
Mr D
Fun project 😁👍
We should all be driving these now.... future hasn't arrived yet
Nice job 👌
Fun project 😁👍
We should all be driving these now.... future hasn't arrived yet
Nice job 👌
22 October, 17:04
Curtis Caden
Thank you Mr D. Magnetic levitation, is a system of transportation that suspends, guides, and propels vehicles, predominantly trains, using magnetic levitation from a very large number of magnets for lift and propulsion. The highest recorded speed of a maglev train is 603 kilometers per hour (374.69 mph), achieved in Japan on 21 April 2015; 28.2 km/h faster than the conventional TGV speed record. Maglev trains exist in Asia and include Central Japan Railway Company's superconducting maglev train and Shanghai's maglev train, the oldest commercial maglev still in operation.
Thank you Mr D. Magnetic levitation, is a system of transportation that suspends, guides, and propels vehicles, predominantly trains, using magnetic levitation from a very large number of magnets for lift and propulsion. The highest recorded speed of a maglev train is 603 kilometers per hour (374.69 mph), achieved in Japan on 21 April 2015; 28.2 km/h faster than the conventional TGV speed record. Maglev trains exist in Asia and include Central Japan Railway Company's superconducting maglev train and Shanghai's maglev train, the oldest commercial maglev still in operation.
23 October, 08:43
Curtis Caden
Thank you Dominik Weitzer and Mr D. If you should build one of these kits use tape to keep the doors closed when positioning them and replace the pins of the wheels with some small screws.
Thank you Dominik Weitzer and Mr D. If you should build one of these kits use tape to keep the doors closed when positioning them and replace the pins of the wheels with some small screws.
25 October, 17:32
Curtis Caden
Thank you Mr D, Christian W, and Spanjaard. Outside of Disneyland and Disney World with the monorail I have not been made aware of magnetic levitation vehicles. Even now it seems futuristic, but this model was made in 1969. Incredibly visionary.
Thank you Mr D, Christian W, and Spanjaard. Outside of Disneyland and Disney World with the monorail I have not been made aware of magnetic levitation vehicles. Even now it seems futuristic, but this model was made in 1969. Incredibly visionary.
25 December, 18:23
Bozzer
I could be wrong, and I've not googled it yet, but didn't the Japanese mess around with Mag-Lev? Now you've got the best of my curiosity! I'm off to Googleland
I could be wrong, and I've not googled it yet, but didn't the Japanese mess around with Mag-Lev? Now you've got the best of my curiosity! I'm off to Googleland
25 December, 21:11
Curtis Caden
Japan has several maglev trains, including the Linimo line and the SCMaglev system:
- Linimo line
This 9 km train in Aichi Prefecture runs from Fujigaoka Station in Nagoya to Yakuza Station in Toyota. It has a top speed of 100 km/h (62 mph).
- SCMaglev
This superconducting maglev system is being developed by Central Japan Railway Company (JR Central) and the Railway Technical Research Institute. It's planned to be used on the Chūō Shinkansen rail line between Tokyo and Nagoya. The SCMaglev uses electrodynamic suspension (EDS) to levitate, guide, and propel the train. The L0 Series, a prototype vehicle based on SCMaglev technology, holds the record for fastest crewed rail vehicle at 603 km/h (375 mph).
Japanese Maglev Train: World's Fastest Bullet Train - JRailPass
The SCMaglev system is expected to revolutionize travel times in Japan. The Chūō Shinkansen is planned to connect Tokyo and Nagoya by 2027, and then extend to Osaka by 2045. Once completed, the line is expected to reduce travel time between Tokyo and Nagoya to 40 minutes, and between Tokyo and Osaka to 67 minutes.
Japan has several maglev trains, including the Linimo line and the SCMaglev system:
- Linimo line
This 9 km train in Aichi Prefecture runs from Fujigaoka Station in Nagoya to Yakuza Station in Toyota. It has a top speed of 100 km/h (62 mph).
- SCMaglev
This superconducting maglev system is being developed by Central Japan Railway Company (JR Central) and the Railway Technical Research Institute. It's planned to be used on the Chūō Shinkansen rail line between Tokyo and Nagoya. The SCMaglev uses electrodynamic suspension (EDS) to levitate, guide, and propel the train. The L0 Series, a prototype vehicle based on SCMaglev technology, holds the record for fastest crewed rail vehicle at 603 km/h (375 mph).
Japanese Maglev Train: World's Fastest Bullet Train - JRailPass
The SCMaglev system is expected to revolutionize travel times in Japan. The Chūō Shinkansen is planned to connect Tokyo and Nagoya by 2027, and then extend to Osaka by 2045. Once completed, the line is expected to reduce travel time between Tokyo and Nagoya to 40 minutes, and between Tokyo and Osaka to 67 minutes.
26 December, 10:52
Bozzer
It was also good to read about the Germans and their experience. Unfortunately, there was a tragic crash, but that was human error, not the actual train.I had fun learning more about this subject, so thanks for the inspiration, Curtis 🙂
It was also good to read about the Germans and their experience. Unfortunately, there was a tragic crash, but that was human error, not the actual train.I had fun learning more about this subject, so thanks for the inspiration, Curtis 🙂
26 December, 18:20
Curtis Caden
You are welcome Bozzer. It is a fun part of modeling learning about the real things.
You are welcome Bozzer. It is a fun part of modeling learning about the real things.
1 28 December, 00:38
Curtis Caden
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25 4 December, 19:53
Curtis Caden
Thank you Rui S and Martin Oostrom. The "woody" part is painted with Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand and then each panel is decaled.
Thank you Rui S and Martin Oostrom. The "woody" part is painted with Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand and then each panel is decaled.
6 December, 12:08
Curtis Caden
Thank you Mr D. The 1931 Ford Model A is significant because it marked the final year of production for the Model A, a hugely popular car that replaced the Model T and was one of the most widely sold vehicles in the late 1920s and early 1930s, offering improved features like a three-speed transmission, four-wheel brakes, and hydraulic shock absorbers compared to its predecessor, while also being considered a stylish and accessible option for the time; the 1931 model year featured slight design updates and was the last before Ford introduced the Model B with a new engine design in 1932.
Thank you Mr D. The 1931 Ford Model A is significant because it marked the final year of production for the Model A, a hugely popular car that replaced the Model T and was one of the most widely sold vehicles in the late 1920s and early 1930s, offering improved features like a three-speed transmission, four-wheel brakes, and hydraulic shock absorbers compared to its predecessor, while also being considered a stylish and accessible option for the time; the 1931 model year featured slight design updates and was the last before Ford introduced the Model B with a new engine design in 1932.
24 December, 14:41
Skyhiker
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37 képek
Foke Wulf 190 F-8 (1997 tooling)Új: 27 December, 16:28 1:72
Finished !
Projekt: Focke-Wulf Fw 190 F-8
42 1 August, 17:22
Skyhiker
For a relatively new kit I am surprised on how much flash and fitting issues this kit has.
For a relatively new kit I am surprised on how much flash and fitting issues this kit has.
2 August, 04:46
Skyhiker
It's really hard for me to fight off the urge to correct the structural issues with this kit. But I promised myself I would make this one out of the box.
It's really hard for me to fight off the urge to correct the structural issues with this kit. But I promised myself I would make this one out of the box.
2 August, 11:32
Patrick Hagelstein
I've seen that promise before Skyhiker! 😂 Good luck keeping this one OOB! 😉👍🏼
I've seen that promise before Skyhiker! 😂 Good luck keeping this one OOB! 😉👍🏼
2 August, 20:39
Sergio Ordonez
Mate, I think you should put the windshield uspside down. The ángel does not cope with the real one as I see on photographs.
Mate, I think you should put the windshield uspside down. The ángel does not cope with the real one as I see on photographs.
2 August, 20:52
Skyhiker
Unfortunately it looks even worse the other way around. The idiot engineers at Revell should be fired.
Unfortunately it looks even worse the other way around. The idiot engineers at Revell should be fired.
2 August, 21:04
Sergio Ordonez
Well, I had some work with French engineers and I know shit happens. Could you take a photo with this one in the other position?
Well, I had some work with French engineers and I know shit happens. Could you take a photo with this one in the other position?
2 August, 21:09
Sergio Ordonez
drive.google.com/fil..J9/view?usp=drivesdk
The windshield is not an isoscelles triangle so the windshield has not a 45 degree ángel over the capot. Please, see these example of a TA-152 (and please, mind It is 35 years old and I was only 13 when I drestroyed It).
I think an easy solution can be made. I do not want any mate to be anoyed by an engineering issue. I had them everyday (it's my job, Factory engineering problem solving, known as 'shit managing") and It can destroy your mojo.
drive.google.com/fil..J9/view?usp=drivesdk
The windshield is not an isoscelles triangle so the windshield has not a 45 degree ángel over the capot. Please, see these example of a TA-152 (and please, mind It is 35 years old and I was only 13 when I drestroyed It).
I think an easy solution can be made. I do not want any mate to be anoyed by an engineering issue. I had them everyday (it's my job, Factory engineering problem solving, known as 'shit managing") and It can destroy your mojo.
2 August, 21:23
Skyhiker
After several hours of sculpting I got the canopy to fit better. I will continue with it tomorrow.
After several hours of sculpting I got the canopy to fit better. I will continue with it tomorrow.
3 August, 02:12
Sergio Ordonez
Your mojo works, mate! Now you have became a great problem solver!
On the other hand, I think another 3D engineering guy needs to stop drinking and 20 years of 2D drafting. The fitting is worse than I could imagine. But I see is no a problem for a seasoned mate like you. Great work, mate!
Your mojo works, mate! Now you have became a great problem solver!
On the other hand, I think another 3D engineering guy needs to stop drinking and 20 years of 2D drafting. The fitting is worse than I could imagine. But I see is no a problem for a seasoned mate like you. Great work, mate!
3 August, 05:17
Nicolas
Following. I build this kit several times in older versions. The fit of the canopy is realy sh*t. My solution was (with about 10 years) to sand the backside of the windshild till it fitted. Of corse so most of the frame is missing.
Following. I build this kit several times in older versions. The fit of the canopy is realy sh*t. My solution was (with about 10 years) to sand the backside of the windshild till it fitted. Of corse so most of the frame is missing.
3 August, 05:31
Thomas Kolb
What a struggle! It reminds me of some Heller and Amodel kits. But it looks that you manage to coax it into shape!
What a struggle! It reminds me of some Heller and Amodel kits. But it looks that you manage to coax it into shape!
3 August, 07:11
Skyhiker
Sergio the TA 152 had a very different canopy than the 190. The 152 was designed for high altitude flying, was pressurized and had double panes.
Sergio the TA 152 had a very different canopy than the 190. The 152 was designed for high altitude flying, was pressurized and had double panes.
4 August, 10:03
Sergio Ordonez
Thanks you, Skyhiker: I think I can remember now, as I researched about FW190 and TA152 black in the 90's. Also, canopy is bubble-shapped. Sorry, my FW190 Mustang have been gone forever, I expent the night trying to find It, just to find my solution, but I think only the reta of the TA152 has survived.
Thanks you, Skyhiker: I think I can remember now, as I researched about FW190 and TA152 black in the 90's. Also, canopy is bubble-shapped. Sorry, my FW190 Mustang have been gone forever, I expent the night trying to find It, just to find my solution, but I think only the reta of the TA152 has survived.
4 August, 14:05
Mr D
You done a better job of the seat belts than l did 🤣. The cockpit glass on my model was not very clear!
Looking good, ... Thanks for uploading 👍👍👍
You done a better job of the seat belts than l did 🤣. The cockpit glass on my model was not very clear!
Looking good, ... Thanks for uploading 👍👍👍
11 August, 15:13
Skyhiker
Mr D did you also have so much trouble with the canopy? I read in the kit review at the bottom of the page that it was bad. I really wish the reviews would be moved up because I always forget about them. It took me quite a while to get the canopy to work. It needed a lot of reshaping to look right.
Mr D did you also have so much trouble with the canopy? I read in the kit review at the bottom of the page that it was bad. I really wish the reviews would be moved up because I always forget about them. It took me quite a while to get the canopy to work. It needed a lot of reshaping to look right.
11 August, 17:40
Skyhiker
I decided to make my own blueprint for this plane. So, that's taking up a lot of my time at the moment.
I decided to make my own blueprint for this plane. So, that's taking up a lot of my time at the moment.
11 August, 17:42
Mr D
Hi, yes l had trouble too, l did a dry fit before paint, and l had to take a combination off the glass n some off fuselage, and had to use a bit of UV clear resin.
I got it to fit in the end, but it's not very clear to see through.
I had a bit missing of my engine fan too, had to make it up with super glue gell.
Hi, yes l had trouble too, l did a dry fit before paint, and l had to take a combination off the glass n some off fuselage, and had to use a bit of UV clear resin.
I got it to fit in the end, but it's not very clear to see through.
I had a bit missing of my engine fan too, had to make it up with super glue gell.
11 August, 17:48
Alexander Grivonev
Built one too back in the day, the nightfighter version. Speaking of the canopy, I like how the rear part of it is just molded to the fuselage 😄. Used some other canopy I found in my spares because the one from the kit was entirely unusable.
Built one too back in the day, the nightfighter version. Speaking of the canopy, I like how the rear part of it is just molded to the fuselage 😄. Used some other canopy I found in my spares because the one from the kit was entirely unusable.
10 October, 16:19
Mr D
Looking good 👍👍
It's a nice model when it's finished once you sort the shortcomings out.
I did get my prop to spin in the end....had to do alot of work to the cooling fan to make it run smoothly.
Good luck on next steps 😃👍
Looking good 👍👍
It's a nice model when it's finished once you sort the shortcomings out.
I did get my prop to spin in the end....had to do alot of work to the cooling fan to make it run smoothly.
Good luck on next steps 😃👍
10 October, 19:29
Skyhiker
If I had thought it would have been a problem I would have dry fitted everything first. But I wanted to keep the parts on the sprue for painting. It wasn't worth messing up the paint job just to get the propeller to spin. Especially since the contact points were so fragile. So in the end I glued it together so it will be stable.
If I had thought it would have been a problem I would have dry fitted everything first. But I wanted to keep the parts on the sprue for painting. It wasn't worth messing up the paint job just to get the propeller to spin. Especially since the contact points were so fragile. So in the end I glued it together so it will be stable.
10 October, 22:56
Mr D
Nicely done.....looks good now 👌👍👍
You managed to get a correct decal for the tail.... Better.
You got it very close to box art.
Nicely done.....looks good now 👌👍👍
You managed to get a correct decal for the tail.... Better.
You got it very close to box art.
21 October, 23:02
Mr D
On the fiddly bits... Did you decide to make your own part for that Whip shaped thingy🤣 don't know what it actually is 🫣.... ?
Quite a few little fragile bits on the bottom... I was extremely cutting n sanding these.
Like the way the guns are visible through wheel well's👍
On the fiddly bits... Did you decide to make your own part for that Whip shaped thingy🤣 don't know what it actually is 🫣.... ?
Quite a few little fragile bits on the bottom... I was extremely cutting n sanding these.
Like the way the guns are visible through wheel well's👍
27 October, 19:30
Skyhiker
Mr D, the Morane antenna I built by filing down a wooden toothpick and super gluing a hog's hair on to it that I got from a cheap brush. The kit part was ridiculously out of scale. I use this hog's hair method for whip antennas and static dischargers because the hair is flexible enough that it won't break off.
Mr D, the Morane antenna I built by filing down a wooden toothpick and super gluing a hog's hair on to it that I got from a cheap brush. The kit part was ridiculously out of scale. I use this hog's hair method for whip antennas and static dischargers because the hair is flexible enough that it won't break off.
27 October, 19:35
Mr D
AHH thanks it's Antenna 👍 be better with bit of flexibility... looks more accurate to photos as well.
I noticed HB do a Ta-152 kit....looks quite good for price.. bit of PE in kit.
I was tempted.....but promised myself l will build one buy one 🙄🤣.
AHH thanks it's Antenna 👍 be better with bit of flexibility... looks more accurate to photos as well.
I noticed HB do a Ta-152 kit....looks quite good for price.. bit of PE in kit.
I was tempted.....but promised myself l will build one buy one 🙄🤣.
27 October, 19:46
Skyhiker
Lol. I promised myself the same thing and the next week someone offered me their entire stash of 45 kits for super cheap, which I bought immediately.
Lol. I promised myself the same thing and the next week someone offered me their entire stash of 45 kits for super cheap, which I bought immediately.
27 October, 19:51
Sergio Ordonez
Impressive work over a humble model that has all reasons for being humble. Only your hands had the skills for making It such a good work. My congratulations and let me bow my hat.
Impressive work over a humble model that has all reasons for being humble. Only your hands had the skills for making It such a good work. My congratulations and let me bow my hat.
5 November, 21:25
Mr D
Hi Skyhiker 👋
Very 👍 well done and congratulations 🎉
Turned out good, the mottling looks really good...👌👍
Hi Skyhiker 👋
Very 👍 well done and congratulations 🎉
Turned out good, the mottling looks really good...👌👍
28 December, 00:31
Mark Sherwood
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38 képek
I've always had a soft spot for the Panzer III.Új: 27 December, 16:08 1:35
Dry run to see were things can be placed. Oil drums etc need to be bedded into the terrain.
42 18 October, 15:29
Mark Sherwood
Thanks for the likes Alex and everyone else too, thanks much appreciated. 👍🥸🤘
Thanks for the likes Alex and everyone else too, thanks much appreciated. 👍🥸🤘
9 November, 19:16
Mark Sherwood
Hi Kesa. I like it's suggested compactness over the Panzer IV, it looks like a Tank as does the Tiger. They spring to mind when anyone talks/say's describe a Tank.
Hi Kesa. I like it's suggested compactness over the Panzer IV, it looks like a Tank as does the Tiger. They spring to mind when anyone talks/say's describe a Tank.
27 November, 05:29
Kesa Tiho
I suppose if you ask any normal person what a tank looks like they'd describe a panzer III or Tiger, yet again. Different models, time periods and ares where the tank are used alter the appearance. Like could be seen with T-34-85s, some were like they were intended while others had components missing and non functional scopes. And Ukrainian Abrams, instead of the usual M at the end of the serial number its UKR, and the armour is different, not using their classified armour. Back to the topic, when i look at my old drawings of tanks they do look like Tigers, boxy and big so i guess your right.
I suppose if you ask any normal person what a tank looks like they'd describe a panzer III or Tiger, yet again. Different models, time periods and ares where the tank are used alter the appearance. Like could be seen with T-34-85s, some were like they were intended while others had components missing and non functional scopes. And Ukrainian Abrams, instead of the usual M at the end of the serial number its UKR, and the armour is different, not using their classified armour. Back to the topic, when i look at my old drawings of tanks they do look like Tigers, boxy and big so i guess your right.
27 November, 07:29
Mark Sherwood
Evening Kesa. Different eras, different battlefields, terrain etc. Gives people their favourite MBT. But when someone says Tank the PzIII and the Tiger come to mind for me (Or the boiler in the Loft) then the Imperial March from Star Wars. 🤟🥸🤘🤣
Evening Kesa. Different eras, different battlefields, terrain etc. Gives people their favourite MBT. But when someone says Tank the PzIII and the Tiger come to mind for me (Or the boiler in the Loft) then the Imperial March from Star Wars. 🤟🥸🤘🤣
27 November, 21:39
Mark Sherwood
Thank you Lebloge more noodling too do on PzIII though and bringing the base together, Mathias it could go tits up, it's me 😳🤣 I have been known to cock things up and that's enough euphemisms. Cheers guys. 🤟🥸🤘
Thank you Lebloge more noodling too do on PzIII though and bringing the base together, Mathias it could go tits up, it's me 😳🤣 I have been known to cock things up and that's enough euphemisms. Cheers guys. 🤟🥸🤘
28 November, 19:41
Rui
I'm also a big fan of the III. In fact it is my favourite tank from the war years. I only have 9 of them in the stash 😁
The project looks great! 👍
I'm also a big fan of the III. In fact it is my favourite tank from the war years. I only have 9 of them in the stash 😁
The project looks great! 👍
28 November, 19:49
Rui
Mark. Yes nine 😁
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. E (Dragon 9040, 1:35)
Tauchpanzer III Ausf. H (Dragon 6775, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. J (Dragon 6394, 1:35)
Pzbflswg III Ausf. K (Dragon 9018, 1:35)
Panzerkampfwagen III Ausf. L (Tamiya 35215, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M (Takom 8002, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. J (Dragon 7372, 1:72)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M (Dragon 7290, 1:72)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. N (Dragon 7386, 1:72)
Mark. Yes nine 😁
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. E (Dragon 9040, 1:35)
Tauchpanzer III Ausf. H (Dragon 6775, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. J (Dragon 6394, 1:35)
Pzbflswg III Ausf. K (Dragon 9018, 1:35)
Panzerkampfwagen III Ausf. L (Tamiya 35215, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M (Takom 8002, 1:35)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. J (Dragon 7372, 1:72)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M (Dragon 7290, 1:72)
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. N (Dragon 7386, 1:72)
1 1 December, 03:20
Mark Sherwood
Like, Wow! Dood. That's a heap of threes, 👍next question from this ancient wreck how did you pin the photos to the comment? 🤟🥸🤘🤔👍🥸🖖
Like, Wow! Dood. That's a heap of threes, 👍next question from this ancient wreck how did you pin the photos to the comment? 🤟🥸🤘🤔👍🥸🖖
1 December, 11:17
Gary Curling
Looking good,like you i have a thing for the panzer 3.Compact tank like the chaffee,which i also like.
Looking good,like you i have a thing for the panzer 3.Compact tank like the chaffee,which i also like.
7 December, 11:17
Mark Sherwood
Thank you Gary. The Chaffee another one I like too, need that in my stash. 🤟🥸👍
Thank you Gary. The Chaffee another one I like too, need that in my stash. 🤟🥸👍
7 December, 11:30
Rui
Hi Mark, when you post the the exact URL to a scalemates listing the system automatically adds the photo. It's a really nice feature
Hi Mark, when you post the the exact URL to a scalemates listing the system automatically adds the photo. It's a really nice feature
2 9 December, 16:42
Mark Sherwood
Have I liked that twice Rui? #earlystartafteradayoffdaftowldfatfingeredcurmudgeon
Have I liked that twice Rui? #earlystartafteradayoffdaftowldfatfingeredcurmudgeon
10 December, 07:47
Mark Sherwood
Thank you Doubtingmango. Found some DAK figures in a spares jar they will be added too, after some clean up and sculpting (Gulp!) Thank you Dave for the like and everyone else too. A Very Merry Christmas to you all. 🤘🥸🤟🍻👍🎄👌🎁🖖
Thank you Doubtingmango. Found some DAK figures in a spares jar they will be added too, after some clean up and sculpting (Gulp!) Thank you Dave for the like and everyone else too. A Very Merry Christmas to you all. 🤘🥸🤟🍻👍🎄👌🎁🖖
24 December, 18:00
Mark Sherwood
Ay up Ian. Primed with Mr Color Grey 1000 then Vallejo off white to highlight from the top down. Then I used Vallejo Panzer Aces Afrika Korps tank crew and Afrika Korps Highlights as a base. Then jipped up the base colours with Vallejo beige/buff for highlights Vallejo Black/Grey.for the downlights. And after all that dry brushing with oils then a overall very thin coat of DAK Highlights for a dust effects.usual flesh colours for face and hands but with a slight shading with tan, the base was blue and red. 😮🤘🥸🤟😮
Ay up Ian. Primed with Mr Color Grey 1000 then Vallejo off white to highlight from the top down. Then I used Vallejo Panzer Aces Afrika Korps tank crew and Afrika Korps Highlights as a base. Then jipped up the base colours with Vallejo beige/buff for highlights Vallejo Black/Grey.for the downlights. And after all that dry brushing with oils then a overall very thin coat of DAK Highlights for a dust effects.usual flesh colours for face and hands but with a slight shading with tan, the base was blue and red. 😮🤘🥸🤟😮
27 December, 18:21
Mark Sherwood
We have in Middlesbrough a branch of Boyes, which stocks all Vallejo Paints and requisite Vallejo products. Plus all the Citadel paints, Humbrol tinnies, Tamiya aerosol primer's and various sundries. They maybe online, but I would not swear to it. 🤟🥸🤘
We have in Middlesbrough a branch of Boyes, which stocks all Vallejo Paints and requisite Vallejo products. Plus all the Citadel paints, Humbrol tinnies, Tamiya aerosol primer's and various sundries. They maybe online, but I would not swear to it. 🤟🥸🤘
28 December, 00:28
Mr D
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52 képek
Beriev Be-6 flying boat/ By Playfix -Veb -Plasticart & Revell 1:721:72
The trim tabs, door handles, painted,
It's finally ready for a clear coat prior to decals.
I have seen people getting ...
60 24 July, 16:32
Mr D
Thanks for the likes 😁👍 it's interesting to see how a 33 year old kit builds up ??
Thanks for the likes 😁👍 it's interesting to see how a 33 year old kit builds up ??
1 August, 15:31
Edouard Carr
Great idea about the watch pins! ⌚ Definitely gonna try this out on my builds. Looking forward to the finished result.
Great idea about the watch pins! ⌚ Definitely gonna try this out on my builds. Looking forward to the finished result.
1 September, 08:43
Mr D
Hi Edouard👋😀👍.
Yes l just get cheap ones of eBay, the do different sizes, you can pull ends n spring out for barrel look, or file ends last to have a recoil cannon look.
The gun turret nearly there now....lots of sanding n filling low spot.
Thanks for looking in on build.👍👍
Hi Edouard👋😀👍.
Yes l just get cheap ones of eBay, the do different sizes, you can pull ends n spring out for barrel look, or file ends last to have a recoil cannon look.
The gun turret nearly there now....lots of sanding n filling low spot.
Thanks for looking in on build.👍👍
1 September, 13:24
Zbynek Honzik
I'm very curious to see the result. I built this model as a young boy too.
I'm very curious to see the result. I built this model as a young boy too.
4 September, 20:22
Mr D
Hi Zbynek 👋🙂👍.
Thanks for your interest. Nice to know you had it too, l built X3 the Tu airliner and the bomber. But this was my favourite as l liked the shape and that it had floats n guns.
Got part of tail on this evening.
Keep looking in for updates 😃👍👍
Hi Zbynek 👋🙂👍.
Thanks for your interest. Nice to know you had it too, l built X3 the Tu airliner and the bomber. But this was my favourite as l liked the shape and that it had floats n guns.
Got part of tail on this evening.
Keep looking in for updates 😃👍👍
4 September, 20:57
Mr D
Good to have you along Guy 👋😃.
Bit of fine sanding n tidying to do next then look at getting an engine effect in cowling area.
I replaced side vent for smaller one now, checked photos... and l made it way to big.
Catch you on the next steps.
Good to have you along Guy 👋😃.
Bit of fine sanding n tidying to do next then look at getting an engine effect in cowling area.
I replaced side vent for smaller one now, checked photos... and l made it way to big.
Catch you on the next steps.
7 September, 20:15
Edouard Carr
Hey Mr D whats the Gorilla Glue like? Is it a clear PVA or a resin Super Glue Type? Do you use it just for clear bits or as n all purpose? Thanks in advance E.
Hey Mr D whats the Gorilla Glue like? Is it a clear PVA or a resin Super Glue Type? Do you use it just for clear bits or as n all purpose? Thanks in advance E.
12 September, 21:46
Mr D
Hi, it dries 100% clear but is slow.. to air dry ..so leave overnight.
But it's worth it as very strong. And is very neutral on paint and clear parts.
It's almost like an air drying epoxy, not harsh like super glue or poli ...very safe.
I only use it on clear stuff as it's stronger than PVA but not good for general building.. l do use it to fill gaps sometimes.
👍
Hi, it dries 100% clear but is slow.. to air dry ..so leave overnight.
But it's worth it as very strong. And is very neutral on paint and clear parts.
It's almost like an air drying epoxy, not harsh like super glue or poli ...very safe.
I only use it on clear stuff as it's stronger than PVA but not good for general building.. l do use it to fill gaps sometimes.
👍
13 September, 10:34
Mike Montgomery
Don't think I'd trust those decals. The red stars are easy enough to replace or paint on, the bort numbers might be more of a challenge.
Don't think I'd trust those decals. The red stars are easy enough to replace or paint on, the bort numbers might be more of a challenge.
13 September, 12:47
Mr D
Hi Edouard 👋..yes 🤣 lm on 12 model with it and never had anything come loose.
Mike👋.... No mention neither! I've purchased some more Soviet stars now, may have some numbers leftover from others project's.
Gorby, Thanks buddy 👍
Hi Edouard 👋..yes 🤣 lm on 12 model with it and never had anything come loose.
Mike👋.... No mention neither! I've purchased some more Soviet stars now, may have some numbers leftover from others project's.
Gorby, Thanks buddy 👍
13 September, 15:53
Christian W
This is a quite interessting plane you're building! I like the shape of the wings. Pretty good build and pictures.
This is a quite interessting plane you're building! I like the shape of the wings. Pretty good build and pictures.
18 September, 04:57
Mr D
@ Christian W.
Thanks buddy 🙂👍
Yes it a bit different, yes has nice gull-wings.
It's a trip down memory lane for me... I slapped one together back in 1991 as a kid.
Thanks for the interest.... I like seeing people's build processes n history....so doing the same.👍👍
@ Christian W.
Thanks buddy 🙂👍
Yes it a bit different, yes has nice gull-wings.
It's a trip down memory lane for me... I slapped one together back in 1991 as a kid.
Thanks for the interest.... I like seeing people's build processes n history....so doing the same.👍👍
18 September, 16:41
Zbynek Honzik
I'm anxiously waiting at the monitor for the paint job! Fingers crossed!
I'm anxiously waiting at the monitor for the paint job! Fingers crossed!
18 September, 19:04
Christian W
Mr D ... 🙂 I like too to see, how much progress my skills during the last 10 years did. Good for me is, that I own most of my model kits since I was a kid. My first plane, car and truck are still in my shelf or boxes.
Because I stumbled somehow over your wip, I checked the history of the kit. It is rally unbelievble, that those engine openings are on the bottom of the motors. Amazing. I wouldn't notice that without your hint.
Mr D ... 🙂 I like too to see, how much progress my skills during the last 10 years did. Good for me is, that I own most of my model kits since I was a kid. My first plane, car and truck are still in my shelf or boxes.
Because I stumbled somehow over your wip, I checked the history of the kit. It is rally unbelievble, that those engine openings are on the bottom of the motors. Amazing. I wouldn't notice that without your hint.
19 September, 04:25
Lorraine Lin
Cannot wait to see the result. Your work reminds me of my first kit, it was a Victor bomber by Matchbox (They had a JV factory in Shanghai at that time). But hard find it in the market now.
Cannot wait to see the result. Your work reminds me of my first kit, it was a Victor bomber by Matchbox (They had a JV factory in Shanghai at that time). But hard find it in the market now.
21 September, 11:33
Mr D
Hi Lorraine 👋.
Glad your interested 👍 there are X2 colour schemes for the be-6 the Soviet green or the Chinese blue, l liked the blue version but could only find suitable replacement decals for Soviet.
My first kit was the Matchbox Electric lightning,.... Built it with my dad....was nice as was 3 colour plastic out the box.
The first models l built on my own were the Veb/Playfix be-6, & Tu- bomber, so nice to revisit.
Got X2 models at min I'm preparing for paint.
Yours is coming along well...."carefully work" 👍👍
Hi Lorraine 👋.
Glad your interested 👍 there are X2 colour schemes for the be-6 the Soviet green or the Chinese blue, l liked the blue version but could only find suitable replacement decals for Soviet.
My first kit was the Matchbox Electric lightning,.... Built it with my dad....was nice as was 3 colour plastic out the box.
The first models l built on my own were the Veb/Playfix be-6, & Tu- bomber, so nice to revisit.
Got X2 models at min I'm preparing for paint.
Yours is coming along well...."carefully work" 👍👍
21 September, 15:00
Mr D
Thanks Skyhiker 👍
I usually use Velejo or AK acrylic, but I'm going to use Tamiya on this one as it won't fit in cabinet.....and l find Tamiya acrylic is a tough paint better for wear n tear, as I'm sure it's going to need dusting now n then 🙄🤣.
The Tamiya paint turns out to be darker than advertised on the lid n chart, I've ordered a white n thinner to Tone down.
Like you I've had 2x build going on.
The Fw-190 really pop's once decals are on..... Remember the trim tabs are red....l just had paint.
😁👍
Thanks Skyhiker 👍
I usually use Velejo or AK acrylic, but I'm going to use Tamiya on this one as it won't fit in cabinet.....and l find Tamiya acrylic is a tough paint better for wear n tear, as I'm sure it's going to need dusting now n then 🙄🤣.
The Tamiya paint turns out to be darker than advertised on the lid n chart, I've ordered a white n thinner to Tone down.
Like you I've had 2x build going on.
The Fw-190 really pop's once decals are on..... Remember the trim tabs are red....l just had paint.
😁👍
12 October, 21:34
Marko
As a child, I once built the kit with my father.
Very simple kit of its time. But the shapes and proportions are convincing and you really did a fantastic job with it. I'm looking forward to the finished model.👍
As a child, I once built the kit with my father.
Very simple kit of its time. But the shapes and proportions are convincing and you really did a fantastic job with it. I'm looking forward to the finished model.👍
5 November, 21:40
Mr D
Hi Marko👋
Nice to hear you have good memories too, first kit l built with my Dad was the Matchbox Electric lightning, it was good as had 3 colours... think my dad painted few bits silver too.
the Veb Playfix kits l would buy on Saturday morning with pocket money it came with strange pot glue.
I built 3 or 4 definitely built the Bear soviet bomber...l can remember.
Funny you commented on this tonight......as l was just checking it over ready for paint in next few days. I've just been wrapping up my IAR-80 project.
😁👍 Stay tuned
Hi Marko👋
Nice to hear you have good memories too, first kit l built with my Dad was the Matchbox Electric lightning, it was good as had 3 colours... think my dad painted few bits silver too.
the Veb Playfix kits l would buy on Saturday morning with pocket money it came with strange pot glue.
I built 3 or 4 definitely built the Bear soviet bomber...l can remember.
Funny you commented on this tonight......as l was just checking it over ready for paint in next few days. I've just been wrapping up my IAR-80 project.
😁👍 Stay tuned
5 November, 22:19
Weizenbrot
Wow, it would be very excited to see the finished model.Very detailed research and nice details. I visited an aviation museum in Beijing few months ago and saw this aircraft. A beautiful flying boat indeed.
Wow, it would be very excited to see the finished model.Very detailed research and nice details. I visited an aviation museum in Beijing few months ago and saw this aircraft. A beautiful flying boat indeed.
8 November, 15:10
Mr D
Hi Weizenbrot 👋
Yes it looks nice with it's gull shape wing, ione of its rolls was to search n destroy trespassing submarines with it's depth charges .
Think the Chinese one is Blue colour??
Thanks for interest 👍
Hi Weizenbrot 👋
Yes it looks nice with it's gull shape wing, ione of its rolls was to search n destroy trespassing submarines with it's depth charges .
Think the Chinese one is Blue colour??
Thanks for interest 👍
8 November, 16:44
Trez
Did you finish it? I just necro-surfed the whole build only to be unceremoniously dumped back at phot number 1 lol
Did you finish it? I just necro-surfed the whole build only to be unceremoniously dumped back at phot number 1 lol
10 November, 02:20
Mr D
Hi Trez, l have recently painted the bottom colour, l will be painting the rest this week, lve had few other projects on the go... Won't be long.
😀👍
Hi Trez, l have recently painted the bottom colour, l will be painting the rest this week, lve had few other projects on the go... Won't be long.
😀👍
10 November, 16:02
Weizenbrot
Hi Mr D. Yes they are light-blue for belly like the Soviet ones and dark blue for the rest part. Some of them have even been modified with turbo-porp engines.
Hi Mr D. Yes they are light-blue for belly like the Soviet ones and dark blue for the rest part. Some of them have even been modified with turbo-porp engines.
11 November, 02:22
Mr D
Hi Dave 👋 thanks 👍
Been working on this long time now between other projects... try n push to get her done now.
Hi Dave 👋 thanks 👍
Been working on this long time now between other projects... try n push to get her done now.
1 26 November, 20:09
Bernhard Pethe
Es freut mich sehr, wenn da jemand ist, der noch so alte Plasticart Modelle zusammenbaut und sich dabei richtig Mühe gibt.
Ein Teil, was ich in meiner Jugend mehrmals gebaut habe, nur leider habe ich keins mehr davon.
Ich schaue hier weiter gerne zu. 🙂
Es freut mich sehr, wenn da jemand ist, der noch so alte Plasticart Modelle zusammenbaut und sich dabei richtig Mühe gibt.
Ein Teil, was ich in meiner Jugend mehrmals gebaut habe, nur leider habe ich keins mehr davon.
Ich schaue hier weiter gerne zu. 🙂
27 November, 16:31
Mr D
Hallo,
Es freut mich wirklich, dass es dir gefällt und ich habe auch schöne Erinnerungen daran.
Ich habe auch den sowjetischen Bomber Bear gebaut, also werde ich mir diesen eines Tages zulegen müssen.
Danke für den netten Kommentar Bernhard 😃👍
Hallo,
Es freut mich wirklich, dass es dir gefällt und ich habe auch schöne Erinnerungen daran.
Ich habe auch den sowjetischen Bomber Bear gebaut, also werde ich mir diesen eines Tages zulegen müssen.
Danke für den netten Kommentar Bernhard 😃👍
27 November, 18:09
Ben M
Let p equal the number of tubes of perfect plastic putty used.
And let t equal the number of rolls of tamiya tape used.
Then let f represent fun: f = p * t
Let p equal the number of tubes of perfect plastic putty used.
And let t equal the number of rolls of tamiya tape used.
Then let f represent fun: f = p * t
1 5 December, 13:55
Mr D
Hi Gorby 👋 Ben 🤣🤣
Not kidding 😲 l need to re stock soon, un-masking was a marathon 😄.
I painted a thin coat of pink primer on the trim tabs tonight.... hopefully not need so many red coats to bring colour up.??
I have enjoyed the process on this one... nice now I'm getting towards the end a bit now.
Thanks for your interest 👍👍
Hi Gorby 👋 Ben 🤣🤣
Not kidding 😲 l need to re stock soon, un-masking was a marathon 😄.
I painted a thin coat of pink primer on the trim tabs tonight.... hopefully not need so many red coats to bring colour up.??
I have enjoyed the process on this one... nice now I'm getting towards the end a bit now.
Thanks for your interest 👍👍
5 December, 19:27
Denis Dogadov
Be-12 is not a modification of Be-6, do not mislead those who are not familiar with the topic. These are completely different planes.
The evil irony of the Russian army and navy in 96 is also unnecessary.
I can also make fun of Britain's modern army and navy.
The color from the bottom is not the same.
Photos of the Be-12 cabin can be found without problems.
myskillsconnect.com/..-vnutri-24-foto.html
Be-12 is not a modification of Be-6, do not mislead those who are not familiar with the topic. These are completely different planes.
The evil irony of the Russian army and navy in 96 is also unnecessary.
I can also make fun of Britain's modern army and navy.
The color from the bottom is not the same.
Photos of the Be-12 cabin can be found without problems.
myskillsconnect.com/..-vnutri-24-foto.html
15 December, 14:41
Mr D
Hi Jennifer 👋, hopefully get a bit of time get round to it soon, thanks for interest 👍
Hi Jennifer 👋, hopefully get a bit of time get round to it soon, thanks for interest 👍
1 17 December, 15:26
Simon
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
14 képek
Nr. 14 - Spitfire F Mk.IX - Work in progressÚj: 27 December, 23:48 1:72
Projekt: Spitfire F Mk.IX (Group Build)
8 20 July, 21:04
Desert Marlin
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
23 29 September, 18:45
Desert Marlin
The IsraDecal publication is absolutely pricesless for this project!
The IsraDecal publication is absolutely pricesless for this project!
29 September, 21:31
Landlubber Mike
Cool project, following along as well. Not sure I can help you on the squadron selection - lots of good options.
Cool project, following along as well. Not sure I can help you on the squadron selection - lots of good options.
4 October, 17:10
Desert Marlin
Perhaps knowing which squadrons participated in "Swords of Iron" would help?
Perhaps knowing which squadrons participated in "Swords of Iron" would help?
4 October, 18:37
Mike Goodman
I love the IAF, and Israel. Your model looks great so far. I'll be watching!
I love the IAF, and Israel. Your model looks great so far. I'll be watching!
6 October, 01:28
John
Just starting the F-16AM (ROCAF) version of this so I'll be following along. What color are you doing the cockpit tub? I've got a mix for dark gull grey that "looks close" but curious what you settled on.
Oh, also the kit comes with a bunch of 500lb resin Mk. 82s I don't plan to use, along with resin MERs for them. Let me know if you want them.
Just starting the F-16AM (ROCAF) version of this so I'll be following along. What color are you doing the cockpit tub? I've got a mix for dark gull grey that "looks close" but curious what you settled on.
Oh, also the kit comes with a bunch of 500lb resin Mk. 82s I don't plan to use, along with resin MERs for them. Let me know if you want them.
6 October, 14:11
Desert Marlin
I have six aircraft in the collection:
S-199
P-51
F-16C
F-16I
F-4E
F-15E
When it's all done, I'll put together a single collection!
I have six aircraft in the collection:
S-199
P-51
F-16C
F-16I
F-4E
F-15E
When it's all done, I'll put together a single collection!
8 October, 01:08
Alberto
Great cockpit.! In some photos the paint job is really weather beaten, are you planning to replicate it?
Great cockpit.! In some photos the paint job is really weather beaten, are you planning to replicate it?
10 October, 06:22
Desert Marlin
Okay. Well, the "Swords of Iron" operations have been very hard on all these aircraft in Gaza. Should be pretty torn up when I get done.
Okay. Well, the "Swords of Iron" operations have been very hard on all these aircraft in Gaza. Should be pretty torn up when I get done.
11 October, 14:29
Desert Marlin
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
48 23 November, 00:44
The Blytonian
Nice. Enjoying the build?
Someday, fingers crossed. On my opportunity buy watchlist.
Nice. Enjoying the build?
Someday, fingers crossed. On my opportunity buy watchlist.
1 23 November, 00:53
Desert Marlin
Yes! It's a great kit. I got one of the special edition with the white metal German Shepherd and the Ernst Rüdel figure. The combinations of parts between Jg 1 and Jg 2 are something to be mindful of however. There are several decals for the car parts so I'm still sorting through that. Time and care must be taken on the cockpit and the figures as there is a lot of posing and seating to be performed before everything is painted. And I am coming back to this one after having started it almost 15 years ago...
Yes! It's a great kit. I got one of the special edition with the white metal German Shepherd and the Ernst Rüdel figure. The combinations of parts between Jg 1 and Jg 2 are something to be mindful of however. There are several decals for the car parts so I'm still sorting through that. Time and care must be taken on the cockpit and the figures as there is a lot of posing and seating to be performed before everything is painted. And I am coming back to this one after having started it almost 15 years ago...
23 November, 04:58
Desert Marlin
Thanks! Picture 5 is wet decal on gloss coated panel. Then two days of working the decal with Mr. Decal Setter and Solvaset. Then gloss coated panel and decal. Then Alclad semi-matte finish. Also used some Tamiya panel line accent between instrument bezels. Then each instrument is given a glass lens using Micro Krystal Klear. Not perfect, but in a dark cockpit it seems okay. The real color and detail will come from the pilot and gunner/radio operator figures…
Thanks! Picture 5 is wet decal on gloss coated panel. Then two days of working the decal with Mr. Decal Setter and Solvaset. Then gloss coated panel and decal. Then Alclad semi-matte finish. Also used some Tamiya panel line accent between instrument bezels. Then each instrument is given a glass lens using Micro Krystal Klear. Not perfect, but in a dark cockpit it seems okay. The real color and detail will come from the pilot and gunner/radio operator figures…
29 November, 04:32
Rui S
I'm not an expert or a spoiler, but I think the 'Kanonenvogel' apeared long after that 🤔
The G1, Specialized tank destroyer evolved in 1942-43.
Basically a conversion of the Ju 87D-3 with attachment points to carry two 37 mm Flak 18 (BK 3,7) cannon in streamlined fairings outboard of the main undercarriage legs. (Cannon attachment points could be exchanged for bomb racks.) Standard defensive armament; often had improved ground vision panel in the cockpit floor.
I'm not an expert or a spoiler, but I think the 'Kanonenvogel' apeared long after that 🤔
The G1, Specialized tank destroyer evolved in 1942-43.
Basically a conversion of the Ju 87D-3 with attachment points to carry two 37 mm Flak 18 (BK 3,7) cannon in streamlined fairings outboard of the main undercarriage legs. (Cannon attachment points could be exchanged for bomb racks.) Standard defensive armament; often had improved ground vision panel in the cockpit floor.
1 2 December, 13:53
Desert Marlin
You are probably right. I am just building the version I was provided by Hasegawa, which over the years, have not always been accurate! In any event, I find the story (800 takes destroyed) and the era, Kursk 1941/42 to be interesting for sure. This particular Jg 2 scheme smacks of a summer deployment without the eventual knowledge that the impending winter would bring!
You are probably right. I am just building the version I was provided by Hasegawa, which over the years, have not always been accurate! In any event, I find the story (800 takes destroyed) and the era, Kursk 1941/42 to be interesting for sure. This particular Jg 2 scheme smacks of a summer deployment without the eventual knowledge that the impending winter would bring!
2 December, 22:31
Rui S
Battle of Kursk. Summer of 1943, from 5 July 😄
The Gunner looks great. Well done 👍
Battle of Kursk. Summer of 1943, from 5 July 😄
The Gunner looks great. Well done 👍
1 2 December, 22:53
Desert Marlin
True about Kursk. I had worked from the Barbarossa reference which was probably too early for the Ju-87G for sure. Thanks for the compliment! The Hasegawa figures are definitely not 3D printed! Lots of carving to get them in better shape...
True about Kursk. I had worked from the Barbarossa reference which was probably too early for the Ju-87G for sure. Thanks for the compliment! The Hasegawa figures are definitely not 3D printed! Lots of carving to get them in better shape...
3 December, 15:20
Mr D
Always stellar work... Nice to see WW2 subject from you now....... good luck with the build 👍👍
Always stellar work... Nice to see WW2 subject from you now....... good luck with the build 👍👍
1 8 December, 20:21
Desert Marlin
Thanks Mr. D. The decals for the inside of the canopies seems to be a little too much work when I can mask the interior and paint the correct color...
Thanks Mr. D. The decals for the inside of the canopies seems to be a little too much work when I can mask the interior and paint the correct color...
1 8 December, 23:22
Desert Marlin
So, the Pilot's hood is really not good. I suppose the middle hood could be too short, but the Pilot's hood is also too tall. About 1 mm too tall. So, if I shave down the bottom of the pilot's hood, I wonder if it will better fill the gap between the back of the Pilot's hood and the middle hood? It seems the gunner's hood fits pretty good.
So, the Pilot's hood is really not good. I suppose the middle hood could be too short, but the Pilot's hood is also too tall. About 1 mm too tall. So, if I shave down the bottom of the pilot's hood, I wonder if it will better fill the gap between the back of the Pilot's hood and the middle hood? It seems the gunner's hood fits pretty good.
1 9 December, 03:29
Desert Marlin
Well, the canopies have taken days longer than I anticipated. I am almost done with the last (gunner's) canopy. Clearly from the complexity of the gunner's canopy, he had a pretty unenviable job. It looks like the limit bar inside the gunner's canopy, which limits the swing of the guns to prevent damage to the airframe, also limits the visibility of the gunner too!
Well, the canopies have taken days longer than I anticipated. I am almost done with the last (gunner's) canopy. Clearly from the complexity of the gunner's canopy, he had a pretty unenviable job. It looks like the limit bar inside the gunner's canopy, which limits the swing of the guns to prevent damage to the airframe, also limits the visibility of the gunner too!
1 12 December, 16:08
Mr D
The canopy is clear ...you should have a good view of pilot , nice job on crew👍
What have you used to mask the front canopy? or is it just protection?
Coming along nicely 👌👍
The canopy is clear ...you should have a good view of pilot , nice job on crew👍
What have you used to mask the front canopy? or is it just protection?
Coming along nicely 👌👍
1 12 December, 19:44
Desert Marlin
Masking has been a combination of 3M Scotch Transparent tape and Tamiya Masking Tape. A little bit of Mr. Masking Sol R and Micro Mask. Just really trying to keep the interior of the canopies very clear for now. The Gunner's Hood is really a ton of work. The interior frame is done except for a little cleanup after the exterior is painted...
Masking has been a combination of 3M Scotch Transparent tape and Tamiya Masking Tape. A little bit of Mr. Masking Sol R and Micro Mask. Just really trying to keep the interior of the canopies very clear for now. The Gunner's Hood is really a ton of work. The interior frame is done except for a little cleanup after the exterior is painted...
12 December, 20:28
Mr D
Be worth it in the end ... Looking good, thanks for scotch tape tip .
Good luck with everything 👍👍
Be worth it in the end ... Looking good, thanks for scotch tape tip .
Good luck with everything 👍👍
2 12 December, 23:30
Erik Leijdens
Excellent work so far! The figures are very well done, the clear parts are really clear!
Excellent work so far! The figures are very well done, the clear parts are really clear!
2 15 December, 10:01
Desert Marlin
I think I'll let the paint dry for a while and work on the Pak 18 cannons…
I think I'll let the paint dry for a while and work on the Pak 18 cannons…
16 December, 02:44
bughunter
Wise decision to let the paint dry. Patience at the right moments saves reworking later 😉
Looks good, do you used enamels?
Wise decision to let the paint dry. Patience at the right moments saves reworking later 😉
Looks good, do you used enamels?
1 16 December, 18:37
Desert Marlin
I have saved my Model Master RLM74, 75, and 76 for just this time! I used Mr.Color Yellow for the stripe and bottom of the wing tips! The Testirs thinner is no good for these paints since it was sold to a different manufacturer and is now unable to properly thin the MM paints. Fortunately, the Squadron enamel thinner seems to be an excellent substitute! Base was Mr. Surfacer 1500 black and grey.
I have saved my Model Master RLM74, 75, and 76 for just this time! I used Mr.Color Yellow for the stripe and bottom of the wing tips! The Testirs thinner is no good for these paints since it was sold to a different manufacturer and is now unable to properly thin the MM paints. Fortunately, the Squadron enamel thinner seems to be an excellent substitute! Base was Mr. Surfacer 1500 black and grey.
1 16 December, 18:43
Mr D
That Tamiya Saw looks like a bit of kit worth getting 🤔.
The Dog will be a nice touch .... Natzi's liked an angry dog 🐕.
Was Ju-87 used for a defensive role??
Enjoy following your builds 👍👍
That Tamiya Saw looks like a bit of kit worth getting 🤔.
The Dog will be a nice touch .... Natzi's liked an angry dog 🐕.
Was Ju-87 used for a defensive role??
Enjoy following your builds 👍👍
1 16 December, 19:02
Desert Marlin
Thanks all for the comments! Mr. D, the Kannonenvögel was used as a Tank Buster on the Eastern Front.
Thanks all for the comments! Mr. D, the Kannonenvögel was used as a Tank Buster on the Eastern Front.
16 December, 19:14
John
Looking great! I enjoyed this build, but I cheated and used the montex canopy mask set. Totally worth it!!!
Looking great! I enjoyed this build, but I cheated and used the montex canopy mask set. Totally worth it!!!
2 17 December, 15:26
bughunter
This German shepherd reminds me of my father's dog - yes, great paint job.
This German shepherd reminds me of my father's dog - yes, great paint job.
1 17 December, 17:30
Desert Marlin
Thanks guys! If anyone knows the story of what the dog's name is, I would really appreciate knowing that! Cheers!
Thanks guys! If anyone knows the story of what the dog's name is, I would really appreciate knowing that! Cheers!
17 December, 19:02
Desert Marlin
Ugh... I think I bought this kit in 2007. That means the decals are... 17 years old. Very brittle to say the least. I am using Mr. MarkSofter which is excellent in this case, but the spiral decal for the spinner is really trouble! We'll see what I can do with it...
Ugh... I think I bought this kit in 2007. That means the decals are... 17 years old. Very brittle to say the least. I am using Mr. MarkSofter which is excellent in this case, but the spiral decal for the spinner is really trouble! We'll see what I can do with it...
19 December, 06:10
bughunter
I hope the decals are still on the sheet! In this case you can protect them with this product. It creates a very thin "rubber" film on top so they do not fall into parts.
Liquid Decal Film (Microscale MI-12, No)
If you do not have it, Gunze Mr. Metal Primer can also be used, but I would use an airbrush to avoid that the brush tip dissolve decal parts. Background: I had a decal paper for self printing decals and in the manual this Gunze clear coat was recommended to protect the print before applying the decal to the model.
I hope the decals are still on the sheet! In this case you can protect them with this product. It creates a very thin "rubber" film on top so they do not fall into parts.
Liquid Decal Film (Microscale MI-12, No)
If you do not have it, Gunze Mr. Metal Primer can also be used, but I would use an airbrush to avoid that the brush tip dissolve decal parts. Background: I had a decal paper for self printing decals and in the manual this Gunze clear coat was recommended to protect the print before applying the decal to the model.
4 19 December, 08:03
John
You might be better off painting the spiral, but the trick is matching the off-white color Hasegawa insisted on printing their white color decals in back then.
You might be better off painting the spiral, but the trick is matching the off-white color Hasegawa insisted on printing their white color decals in back then.
1 19 December, 13:30
Desert Marlin
Thanks Frank and John! I have the film but did not use it. I have used the film in the past and it is a great option! I was trying to slowly work the spiral on and soften the film as I went. Still broke in a few places, but I think I can correct it a bit. John, as for painting it on, I should have got that route but I had constructed that part of the kit so many years ago. I would have had to break it down and start over. I actually tried to undo some of the construction so I could get the spinner and oil slinger off the prop but would have been too much damage. So, between touch-up and weathering I think I can overcome the damage. I agree, their off-white is a bit odd, but I think the Vallejo white, ivory and grey can make the difference! Thanks for the encouragement!
Thanks Frank and John! I have the film but did not use it. I have used the film in the past and it is a great option! I was trying to slowly work the spiral on and soften the film as I went. Still broke in a few places, but I think I can correct it a bit. John, as for painting it on, I should have got that route but I had constructed that part of the kit so many years ago. I would have had to break it down and start over. I actually tried to undo some of the construction so I could get the spinner and oil slinger off the prop but would have been too much damage. So, between touch-up and weathering I think I can overcome the damage. I agree, their off-white is a bit odd, but I think the Vallejo white, ivory and grey can make the difference! Thanks for the encouragement!
1 19 December, 15:43
John
Ah, having to "undo" construction would certainly complicate matters. I ended up painting mine for the exact same reason, cracked decals. Tamiya white with just a touch of XF-57 buff and XF-59 desert yellow was a good match for the decal color but the vallejo mix sounds workable too. I think it's asking a lot of decals, especially old Hasegawa ones (which, let's face it, aren't that great when new) to conform to that spinner. Too bad Hasegawa didn't see fit to include masks for that, but Eduard-level kit goodies were still some years in the future! Nice job on the Shepherd, by the way!
Ah, having to "undo" construction would certainly complicate matters. I ended up painting mine for the exact same reason, cracked decals. Tamiya white with just a touch of XF-57 buff and XF-59 desert yellow was a good match for the decal color but the vallejo mix sounds workable too. I think it's asking a lot of decals, especially old Hasegawa ones (which, let's face it, aren't that great when new) to conform to that spinner. Too bad Hasegawa didn't see fit to include masks for that, but Eduard-level kit goodies were still some years in the future! Nice job on the Shepherd, by the way!
1 19 December, 16:25
Desert Marlin
John, you are absolutely correct on all points! Thanks for commiserating!
John, you are absolutely correct on all points! Thanks for commiserating!
19 December, 18:44
Desert Marlin
I may. try the Tamiya mix and see how that does! I will probably try to beat down the decal with some Solvaset.
I may. try the Tamiya mix and see how that does! I will probably try to beat down the decal with some Solvaset.
1 19 December, 18:45
Mr D
That's a difficult decal to do at the best of times 🤔,
At least you have a good pattern to paint in, lve had this happen on new HB and Tamiya decals.
You will have it tidied up soon.
Build is looking good 👍👍
That's a difficult decal to do at the best of times 🤔,
At least you have a good pattern to paint in, lve had this happen on new HB and Tamiya decals.
You will have it tidied up soon.
Build is looking good 👍👍
1 19 December, 21:04
Desert Marlin
Weathering has begun. Thanks Jennifer. I failed to be too patient and switched to the Vallejo paints for the spinner...
Weathering has begun. Thanks Jennifer. I failed to be too patient and switched to the Vallejo paints for the spinner...
21 December, 16:04
Desert Marlin
Sadly, the two cross decals on the lower surface of the wing just won't cooperate. So I have decided to remove them and paint them on...
Sadly, the two cross decals on the lower surface of the wing just won't cooperate. So I have decided to remove them and paint them on...
1 23 December, 22:18
Jennifer Franklin
Your paint job looks better than the decals probably would have.
Your paint job looks better than the decals probably would have.
1 23 December, 23:03
Desert Marlin
You were looking at the 17 year old decals that wouldn't sit down…. 😃👍
You were looking at the 17 year old decals that wouldn't sit down…. 😃👍
1 26 December, 19:12
Mr D
More work than planned with the biodegradable decals 🙄 ...it's the nature of the hobby it can sometimes be 1 step forward 2 back, I've had a drill bit break off yesterday 🫣😠 stuck in the model!!
But your pulling it back now and looking good 👍👍
More work than planned with the biodegradable decals 🙄 ...it's the nature of the hobby it can sometimes be 1 step forward 2 back, I've had a drill bit break off yesterday 🫣😠 stuck in the model!!
But your pulling it back now and looking good 👍👍
2 26 December, 21:19
Desert Marlin
You know the feeling well Mr. D!!! It has been exactly that way on this one. I hope to unmask the canopy this afternoon!
You know the feeling well Mr. D!!! It has been exactly that way on this one. I hope to unmask the canopy this afternoon!
26 December, 22:01
Jennifer Franklin
Now I can genuinely say that your paint job looks better than the decals that were on there before... lol
Now I can genuinely say that your paint job looks better than the decals that were on there before... lol
1 27 December, 02:17
Desert Marlin
Thank you Villers, Dave and Guy! This one tried me. It's my first attempt using oil and Liquin for weathering.
Thank you Villers, Dave and Guy! This one tried me. It's my first attempt using oil and Liquin for weathering.
27 December, 19:35
Damian Güttner
Very nice Ju 87 , well built. But what happened at the bottom !!???? With the crosses !!???? They are totally crooked !! Can you correct that ?
Very nice Ju 87 , well built. But what happened at the bottom !!???? With the crosses !!???? They are totally crooked !! Can you correct that ?
1 27 December, 23:06
Desert Marlin
Thanks Rui! Damian, This particular marking set requires that the crosses be at an angle. Apparently Hans Ulrich Rudel had them that way. I could absolutely remove them and repaint, but if they were straight, that might not be correct…
Thanks Rui! Damian, This particular marking set requires that the crosses be at an angle. Apparently Hans Ulrich Rudel had them that way. I could absolutely remove them and repaint, but if they were straight, that might not be correct…
27 December, 23:45
Simon
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
2 képek
Nr. 15 - Tiger I Tiki - Work in progressÚj: 27 December, 23:24 1:35
Tag 1
Projekt: Tiger I Tiki
27 December, 23:23
Alexander Grivonev
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
56 képek
Dry fitting not required! - Porsche 992 GT3 RS build report1:24
Finished shocks, the spring was brush painted with Tamiya X-7. To prevent the paint from drying too fast and achieve a s...
Projekt: Porsche 992 GT3 RS - Pure White
37 5 December, 08:10
yngvenett
I'm definitely following this! The idea of using drilling holes in small parts and inserting the needles is brilliant. Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago 😳
I'm definitely following this! The idea of using drilling holes in small parts and inserting the needles is brilliant. Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago 😳
6 December, 09:27
Alexander Grivonev
Welcome guys, yes holding spoilers is sometimes a real pain in the a**, I've learned this the hard way
Welcome guys, yes holding spoilers is sometimes a real pain in the a**, I've learned this the hard way
6 December, 11:40
Mark W
Weirdly the X series acrylic paint is compatible with Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner, and it then acts a lot like lacquer. I have switched to buying lacquers only but still have some X series acrylics that I will ONLY put through an airbrush once thinned with their lacquer thinner.
Weirdly the X series acrylic paint is compatible with Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner, and it then acts a lot like lacquer. I have switched to buying lacquers only but still have some X series acrylics that I will ONLY put through an airbrush once thinned with their lacquer thinner.
1 17 December, 17:49
Martin Oostrom
I understand that the LP's are basically the rattle can lacquers in a jar. For 5 times the price.
I understand that the LP's are basically the rattle can lacquers in a jar. For 5 times the price.
17 December, 21:01
Emanuele Matteucci
Top idea to use the official Porsche config on the website! Tank you i'll configure one to better see all the details for the model. Double fun!
Top idea to use the official Porsche config on the website! Tank you i'll configure one to better see all the details for the model. Double fun!
18 December, 12:56
Alexander Grivonev
I can also recommend walkaround videos like these
Youtube Video
Youtube Video
great source for all kinds of detail inside, outside and from below
I can also recommend walkaround videos like these
Youtube Video
Youtube Video
great source for all kinds of detail inside, outside and from below
1 18 December, 14:38
Mark W
@Alexander I'm still new to polishing paint, especially metallics, but my 1st gen Civic build was sprayed with X-34 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Main reason I've switched to this is using acrylic thinner constantly clogged my AB tip with the weather here.
Honda Civic GL (SB-1) | Album by Marktastrophe (1:24)
@Martin it's wild how prices change per locale, a jar of LP is a little less than half the price of a rattle can here and covers 3-5 times as much sprayed through an airbrush. (The low end of coverage is yellows and reds, of course.)
@Alexander I'm still new to polishing paint, especially metallics, but my 1st gen Civic build was sprayed with X-34 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Main reason I've switched to this is using acrylic thinner constantly clogged my AB tip with the weather here.
Honda Civic GL (SB-1) | Album by Marktastrophe (1:24)
@Martin it's wild how prices change per locale, a jar of LP is a little less than half the price of a rattle can here and covers 3-5 times as much sprayed through an airbrush. (The low end of coverage is yellows and reds, of course.)
18 December, 15:49
bughunter
I really like your careful work and painting 👍
@Martin Tamiya follow simply the trend to lacquer paints, after Mr. Paint and and other started this trend. Ok, there is a smell but I really like the fast drying times and they are much more forgiving for airbrushing. When the Mr.Paint colors were new and people asked about them, my answer was always "It's like Alclad in color" 😉
I really like your careful work and painting 👍
@Martin Tamiya follow simply the trend to lacquer paints, after Mr. Paint and and other started this trend. Ok, there is a smell but I really like the fast drying times and they are much more forgiving for airbrushing. When the Mr.Paint colors were new and people asked about them, my answer was always "It's like Alclad in color" 😉
19 December, 15:06
Ben M
The use of pins is a great idea. I've used this technique when I planned to pin the parts later, like on a resin kit, but hadn't considered it in other contexts before.
The use of pins is a great idea. I've used this technique when I planned to pin the parts later, like on a resin kit, but hadn't considered it in other contexts before.
19 December, 15:17
Alexander Grivonev
Lacquer or organic solvent paints are superior almost in every way to waterbased colors, some people might even prefer the smell 😄 I am just bewildered there is a trend towards something clearly not "environmentally friendly" in our supposedly eco friendly, green and polar bear loving world. Not that I am complaining...
Lacquer or organic solvent paints are superior almost in every way to waterbased colors, some people might even prefer the smell 😄 I am just bewildered there is a trend towards something clearly not "environmentally friendly" in our supposedly eco friendly, green and polar bear loving world. Not that I am complaining...
19 December, 17:08
Martin Oostrom
I decant the Tamiya rattle cans and get +/- 75ml out of them. For approximately €8. The 10ml LP's are €5 each. If the paint indeed is the same , that's a huge difference.
And I mostly airbrush with lacquers. Much more forgiving in my hands than acrylics. I donated most of my acrylics to Spanjaard. The only ones I kept are for detail brush painting.
I decant the Tamiya rattle cans and get +/- 75ml out of them. For approximately €8. The 10ml LP's are €5 each. If the paint indeed is the same , that's a huge difference.
And I mostly airbrush with lacquers. Much more forgiving in my hands than acrylics. I donated most of my acrylics to Spanjaard. The only ones I kept are for detail brush painting.
19 December, 21:00
Alexander Grivonev
5€ for 10ml LP?? I sourced them for 2,69 a jar. I have to admit, I have never used decanted paint. Tried decanting once but was repelled by the messiness and did not end up using the paint. I think I still would prefer getting the jars. And if you consider you add up to 2/3 of thinner to the jar to make it airbrush ready the price difference isn't that great anymore...
5€ for 10ml LP?? I sourced them for 2,69 a jar. I have to admit, I have never used decanted paint. Tried decanting once but was repelled by the messiness and did not end up using the paint. I think I still would prefer getting the jars. And if you consider you add up to 2/3 of thinner to the jar to make it airbrush ready the price difference isn't that great anymore...
19 December, 21:16
bughunter
@Martin To avoid to confuse people: the new lacquers are still acrylics! They are in solvent based thinner, in opposite to the water based acrylics. See for example a MrPaint label: "Acrylic lacquer based paint".
For completeness, enamels are another (oil based) paint class.
Sorry Alexander for hijacking your thread!
@Martin To avoid to confuse people: the new lacquers are still acrylics! They are in solvent based thinner, in opposite to the water based acrylics. See for example a MrPaint label: "Acrylic lacquer based paint".
For completeness, enamels are another (oil based) paint class.
Sorry Alexander for hijacking your thread!
19 December, 21:42
Mark W
@Martin that could be the difference, I have never decanted a rattle can either. A 10ml jar is less than €5 here where a rattle can is around €12.50. I also average a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio so the thinner goes quite far.
(Currency conversions courtesy of Google)
@Martin that could be the difference, I have never decanted a rattle can either. A 10ml jar is less than €5 here where a rattle can is around €12.50. I also average a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio so the thinner goes quite far.
(Currency conversions courtesy of Google)
20 December, 02:57
Alexander Grivonev
@bughunter: I did not want to open the pandora's box either because it is an insanely broad topic but hey who does not like a healthy discussion! I get the feeling the word "acrylic" has become somewhat of a marketing term because it sounds cool and modern. So the consumer will think, "hey I have heard this before, this must be good".
It is basically the umbrella term for the "sticky stuff" in your paint. Paint consists in very broad terms from 3 parts: 1."colored stuff", the pigment 2."sticky stuff", the binder which binds the pigments 3. "runny stuff", the solvent which makes the paint more liquidy for easier application.
The "sticky stuff" is the aforementioned acryl, again a broad term for a myriad of different compounds. There are other categories of sticky stuff: oils, resins like polyurethane and many many more. In the earlier days the painters used compounds found in nature like shellac, tree resin or even eggs. When you paint an object, the solvent evaporates and the sticky stuff with the bound pigments inside remains on the object becoming hard and dry leaving you with an object in your desired color.
Depending on the chemical properties of the "sticky stuff" it can be soluble by different solvents like organic solvents or waterbased ones. Again in very broad terms the organic solvents are the "smelly" ones. But there are also overlappings like alcohol based paints which also can be diluted with water (Tamiya X and XF and alike)
@bughunter: I did not want to open the pandora's box either because it is an insanely broad topic but hey who does not like a healthy discussion! I get the feeling the word "acrylic" has become somewhat of a marketing term because it sounds cool and modern. So the consumer will think, "hey I have heard this before, this must be good".
It is basically the umbrella term for the "sticky stuff" in your paint. Paint consists in very broad terms from 3 parts: 1."colored stuff", the pigment 2."sticky stuff", the binder which binds the pigments 3. "runny stuff", the solvent which makes the paint more liquidy for easier application.
The "sticky stuff" is the aforementioned acryl, again a broad term for a myriad of different compounds. There are other categories of sticky stuff: oils, resins like polyurethane and many many more. In the earlier days the painters used compounds found in nature like shellac, tree resin or even eggs. When you paint an object, the solvent evaporates and the sticky stuff with the bound pigments inside remains on the object becoming hard and dry leaving you with an object in your desired color.
Depending on the chemical properties of the "sticky stuff" it can be soluble by different solvents like organic solvents or waterbased ones. Again in very broad terms the organic solvents are the "smelly" ones. But there are also overlappings like alcohol based paints which also can be diluted with water (Tamiya X and XF and alike)
3 20 December, 08:50
Alexander Grivonev
It is an insanely broad topic, I would say just stick to what you are most comfortable with and enjoy the process!
It is an insanely broad topic, I would say just stick to what you are most comfortable with and enjoy the process!
20 December, 08:51
Martin Oostrom
Or learn something new by following Mr Shiny 😉
And I thin my decanted cans with 20-30 Mr SLT as well. To each his own, like Alexander says.
Or learn something new by following Mr Shiny 😉
And I thin my decanted cans with 20-30 Mr SLT as well. To each his own, like Alexander says.
1 20 December, 11:12
Alexander Grivonev
I am making progress guys, just the uploading is lagging behind. More pictures in the following days 👍
I am making progress guys, just the uploading is lagging behind. More pictures in the following days 👍
3 26 December, 20:16
Mike Bird
Looking forward to the pictures! Santa was good to me and I'm now the proud owner of this kit!
Looking forward to the pictures! Santa was good to me and I'm now the proud owner of this kit!
26 December, 22:22
Bozzer
Just to throw my English spanner in the works, if you guys can get hold of some Winsor and Newton Galleria retarder, you should find that works too? Obviously testing, before you commit to the model, but it's an artists go-to, and you just need a tiny drop. Lasts for years, and for the money, it'll probably outlive each of us? Give it a Google and see if it's available in your area?
Just to throw my English spanner in the works, if you guys can get hold of some Winsor and Newton Galleria retarder, you should find that works too? Obviously testing, before you commit to the model, but it's an artists go-to, and you just need a tiny drop. Lasts for years, and for the money, it'll probably outlive each of us? Give it a Google and see if it's available in your area?
26 December, 23:20
Michael Kohl
Joining the crowd and start with two cents of mine: I never got along with Tamiya paints. Exasperated I switched to Mr. Hobbcolor then. Improved my results further since using Mr. Color Levelling Thinner and closed the circle with Tamiya and Mr. Hobbycolor paints using the same thinner and about 10% retarder. Now I can use up my paints.
Joining the crowd and start with two cents of mine: I never got along with Tamiya paints. Exasperated I switched to Mr. Hobbcolor then. Improved my results further since using Mr. Color Levelling Thinner and closed the circle with Tamiya and Mr. Hobbycolor paints using the same thinner and about 10% retarder. Now I can use up my paints.
27 December, 13:03
Bozzer
Apparently, all retarder contains glycerine. I'm no scientist, so don't hang me if I'm wrong! However, I did manage to dig this out, from years ago, and if anyone would like to look at the following link, then please do so.
My belief is, that sharing information, expands the knowledge of the hive?
Obviously, it's not my thread, so please feel free to PM/DM me with your experiences?
Alexander, thank you for your patience 🙂
Apparently, all retarder contains glycerine. I'm no scientist, so don't hang me if I'm wrong! However, I did manage to dig this out, from years ago, and if anyone would like to look at the following link, then please do so.
My belief is, that sharing information, expands the knowledge of the hive?
Obviously, it's not my thread, so please feel free to PM/DM me with your experiences?
Alexander, thank you for your patience 🙂
27 December, 20:01
Alexander Grivonev
Guys, thanks for your input and feel free to share your thoughts 👍
When using a brush for paint application I personally almost exclusively use Vallejo Model Color nowadays (similar paints from other brand as well, in the 17ml droplet flask). You apply a couple of droplets of your desired paints onto a wet palette an off you go, you can mix the paint on the go while you are working, it dries really fast, the droplet flask is very convenient. Great stuff. Almost never used Tamiya Acrylics with a brush with the seldom exception here and there. The glossy ones for example for springs, used a couple of times already.
Vice versa I for the love of me cannot stand airbrushing the Vallejo/MiG waterbased acrylics. I tried, i did not like the result. Something about airbrushing these paints just rubs me the wrong way...The way they clog the airbrush and the way they can be treated afterwards goes against my moideling habits. I know some modelers swear by them, I am not one of them.
So where were we? Paint retarder, so far I am d'accord with the Tamiya branded one and since I use it very seldomly it will be probably enough for a lifetime. So I am not seeing myself purchasing a bottle of Winsor and Newton anytime soon, but hey who knows, never say never!
Guys, thanks for your input and feel free to share your thoughts 👍
When using a brush for paint application I personally almost exclusively use Vallejo Model Color nowadays (similar paints from other brand as well, in the 17ml droplet flask). You apply a couple of droplets of your desired paints onto a wet palette an off you go, you can mix the paint on the go while you are working, it dries really fast, the droplet flask is very convenient. Great stuff. Almost never used Tamiya Acrylics with a brush with the seldom exception here and there. The glossy ones for example for springs, used a couple of times already.
Vice versa I for the love of me cannot stand airbrushing the Vallejo/MiG waterbased acrylics. I tried, i did not like the result. Something about airbrushing these paints just rubs me the wrong way...The way they clog the airbrush and the way they can be treated afterwards goes against my moideling habits. I know some modelers swear by them, I am not one of them.
So where were we? Paint retarder, so far I am d'accord with the Tamiya branded one and since I use it very seldomly it will be probably enough for a lifetime. So I am not seeing myself purchasing a bottle of Winsor and Newton anytime soon, but hey who knows, never say never!
27 December, 23:14
Rune Haugen
Why is this listed? No manufacturer given, and nowhere to order it.
Why is this listed? No manufacturer given, and nowhere to order it.
26 December, 20:25
Spanjaard
the fact that a kit is no longer produced, is no reason not to list it in SCM. it may not be possible for you to get one, but those who have one, can add it to their projects (past, present or future) 😉
the fact that a kit is no longer produced, is no reason not to list it in SCM. it may not be possible for you to get one, but those who have one, can add it to their projects (past, present or future) 😉
1 26 December, 20:59
Rune Haugen
If it's Azimuth , then why not write that in the brand field to begin with? 3D printed stuff from every garage is should have it's own category. Then one could filter out the noise. There are a lot of very limited run and availability to say the least in the 3D printed category.
If it's Azimuth , then why not write that in the brand field to begin with? 3D printed stuff from every garage is should have it's own category. Then one could filter out the noise. There are a lot of very limited run and availability to say the least in the 3D printed category.
27 December, 22:17
Spanjaard
i do not know if the brand was missing when you first posted, but certainly it is there now (I did not add it)
i do not know if the brand was missing when you first posted, but certainly it is there now (I did not add it)
27 December, 23:11
Thomas Rieck
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
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4 26 December, 15:32
Ian Latham
plastic by Adler, resin engine by Copper State, resin machine gun by HpH, seat belts and decals by HGW
plastic by Adler, resin engine by Copper State, resin machine gun by HpH, seat belts and decals by HGW
27 December, 22:47
Joshua Betcher
Any news on the release date for this kit? I’ve had one on order and can’t seem to find any updates
Any news on the release date for this kit? I’ve had one on order and can’t seem to find any updates
Canadair CT-114 Tutor
Kinetic 1:48
48082 27 December, 22:44
Danny Ray
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
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27 December, 10:06
Danny Ray
This Border models limited edition cutting Matt came with the Crusader Mk III I bought for my Murphy memorial build. It's too good to cut into in my opinion!!
This Border models limited edition cutting Matt came with the Crusader Mk III I bought for my Murphy memorial build. It's too good to cut into in my opinion!!
27 December, 10:30
Gordon Sørensen
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
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29 16 March, 02:52
Kenneth
Will definitely be following, as I completed the very same project a couple of years ago, namely OY-ACA with home made decals (Lima November's decals didn't exist yet). If you want a challenge (which I only realised after it was finished), the float struts are in the wrong location in the kit, they should be mounted to the inboard edges of the floats, not on the centerlines of the latter.
I've posted photos of the model as a completed, maybe they are of interest to you? You'll need to shave of the horizontal part of the inner edge of the cowling, and to make a new exhaust, to match the Danish aircraft. The kit goes together quite well, except the fiddling with the many small windows, and attaching the floats (which was a bit of a pain).
Will definitely be following, as I completed the very same project a couple of years ago, namely OY-ACA with home made decals (Lima November's decals didn't exist yet). If you want a challenge (which I only realised after it was finished), the float struts are in the wrong location in the kit, they should be mounted to the inboard edges of the floats, not on the centerlines of the latter.
I've posted photos of the model as a completed, maybe they are of interest to you? You'll need to shave of the horizontal part of the inner edge of the cowling, and to make a new exhaust, to match the Danish aircraft. The kit goes together quite well, except the fiddling with the many small windows, and attaching the floats (which was a bit of a pain).
16 March, 07:50
Gordon Sørensen
Kenneth - Thanks for the info and photos. They are of great help. I would like to do ACA with the Polar Bear and large registration, but I don`t want to have to cut the extra window on the rear fuselage.
Will have to search/download more photos with focus on how the floats are set-up. I was looking at the plastic thinking `Something doesn`t look right`....
Kenneth - Thanks for the info and photos. They are of great help. I would like to do ACA with the Polar Bear and large registration, but I don`t want to have to cut the extra window on the rear fuselage.
Will have to search/download more photos with focus on how the floats are set-up. I was looking at the plastic thinking `Something doesn`t look right`....
16 March, 18:07
Gordon Sørensen
My mistake, the extra window/large registration is on OY-ABN. Trying to see if/where the overhead window goes. Don't really see it on the photos I have, and supposedly it is in the wrong position on the kit.
Looks like the interior is a 'Zinc Chromate' green. Not a lot will be seen through the windows anyway. Trying to fight the urge to open the Doors and make an interior..
Managed to find some drawings of EDO 7170 floats. The mounting detail is for a DHC-3 Otter, but it should be similar for the Norseman.
My mistake, the extra window/large registration is on OY-ABN. Trying to see if/where the overhead window goes. Don't really see it on the photos I have, and supposedly it is in the wrong position on the kit.
Looks like the interior is a 'Zinc Chromate' green. Not a lot will be seen through the windows anyway. Trying to fight the urge to open the Doors and make an interior..
Managed to find some drawings of EDO 7170 floats. The mounting detail is for a DHC-3 Otter, but it should be similar for the Norseman.
18 March, 19:46
Gordon Sørensen
Opened up the pilot's, main, and cargo doors. Going to make the door frames from styrene sheet.
Assembled the floats, filling in the incorrect mounting holes. I downloaded a couple three-views of the aircraft on floats to help get the strut placement correct.
Opened up the pilot's, main, and cargo doors. Going to make the door frames from styrene sheet.
Assembled the floats, filling in the incorrect mounting holes. I downloaded a couple three-views of the aircraft on floats to help get the strut placement correct.
22 March, 19:58
Gordon Sørensen
I bought some 'Looks Like Glass' by Deluxe at Telford last year. This was the first time I tried it. A little thicker than I thought it would be. The first time, I had 'puddling' issues, with there being areas where too much fluid stayed on the plastic. Wasn't happy with the look, so I dipped the windows in vinegar for a couple hours and the coating easily came off. The second time, I tried to 'Shake off' the excess, and then laid out the clear sprues on a piece of paper towel to try to wisk away any extra. Seemed to work better this time.
Painted the engine and propeller. I added some counterbalances to the prop hub. The kit part just had two provisions. Now I am working on the engine cowling. The lower engine air-intake looked a little 'undersized' so I am scratchbuilding a new one.
I painted the control surfaces with Humbrol Metalcote. I like this spray. Went down very smooth.
Ordered a book on the Norseman from Rebell Hobby in Sweden. The package made it to Canada in a week. Not bad…and lots of good detail and info.
I bought some 'Looks Like Glass' by Deluxe at Telford last year. This was the first time I tried it. A little thicker than I thought it would be. The first time, I had 'puddling' issues, with there being areas where too much fluid stayed on the plastic. Wasn't happy with the look, so I dipped the windows in vinegar for a couple hours and the coating easily came off. The second time, I tried to 'Shake off' the excess, and then laid out the clear sprues on a piece of paper towel to try to wisk away any extra. Seemed to work better this time.
Painted the engine and propeller. I added some counterbalances to the prop hub. The kit part just had two provisions. Now I am working on the engine cowling. The lower engine air-intake looked a little 'undersized' so I am scratchbuilding a new one.
I painted the control surfaces with Humbrol Metalcote. I like this spray. Went down very smooth.
Ordered a book on the Norseman from Rebell Hobby in Sweden. The package made it to Canada in a week. Not bad…and lots of good detail and info.
29 March, 22:39
Gordon Sørensen
Thanks Cuajete!
Looking at my new reference book, the floats in the kit appear to be the smaller version, applicable to the Norseman Mk.IV. The kit is a Mk.VI, so I modified the floats to better represent the Edo 7170s…
By seperating the floats at the 'step', I was able to lengthen the rear section by 1mm, and the front section 3.5mm with some of the plastic from the sprues. I also widened the floats by 1mm and made them 'deeper' by 0.5mm. Will have to make new attachment parts as well… I am happy with the results.
I also decided to scratchbuild a bit of the interior. Putting in some panels in the fuselage and on the door frames, which looking at reference photos, appear to be rather wide.
Thanks Cuajete!
Looking at my new reference book, the floats in the kit appear to be the smaller version, applicable to the Norseman Mk.IV. The kit is a Mk.VI, so I modified the floats to better represent the Edo 7170s…
By seperating the floats at the 'step', I was able to lengthen the rear section by 1mm, and the front section 3.5mm with some of the plastic from the sprues. I also widened the floats by 1mm and made them 'deeper' by 0.5mm. Will have to make new attachment parts as well… I am happy with the results.
I also decided to scratchbuild a bit of the interior. Putting in some panels in the fuselage and on the door frames, which looking at reference photos, appear to be rather wide.
9 April, 13:59
Живко Джаков
Very cool. I envy the patience to build so many mind-blowing details. I don't own this. For that I settle for Arifix's Mosquito.
Very cool. I envy the patience to build so many mind-blowing details. I don't own this. For that I settle for Arifix's Mosquito.
9 April, 14:24
Greg Baker
I've got this one in the stash - albeit with a different destiny in mind - so watching~
I've got this one in the stash - albeit with a different destiny in mind - so watching~
18 April, 18:30
Gordon Sørensen
Built up the interior of the fuselage, and added panels to the doors. Reference photos show cross-bracing in the fuselage, just behind the seats. I added this with round styrene.
Need to add the windows (from the inside) and then I can close up the fuselage. The decal sheet includes pre-cut masks for the windows.
Built up the interior of the fuselage, and added panels to the doors. Reference photos show cross-bracing in the fuselage, just behind the seats. I added this with round styrene.
Need to add the windows (from the inside) and then I can close up the fuselage. The decal sheet includes pre-cut masks for the windows.
18 April, 18:33
Gordon Sørensen
Modified the fuselage, moving the upper window to the correct location. While trying to put in the window, I pushed it in place a little too hard. It was a bit too big , and it split the fuselage open. Glued that and re-putty-ed the seam.
The decals came with window masks, which is nice.
Painted the wings and fuselage with AK Extreme Aluminum. I like it, went on smoothly, but as with any Silver, you definately see any spots that aren't perfectly…
A little putty later, another coat of Silver, and I think I am ready for assembly.
Still need to work out how to mount the modified floats…
Modified the fuselage, moving the upper window to the correct location. While trying to put in the window, I pushed it in place a little too hard. It was a bit too big , and it split the fuselage open. Glued that and re-putty-ed the seam.
The decals came with window masks, which is nice.
Painted the wings and fuselage with AK Extreme Aluminum. I like it, went on smoothly, but as with any Silver, you definately see any spots that aren't perfectly…
A little putty later, another coat of Silver, and I think I am ready for assembly.
Still need to work out how to mount the modified floats…
4 May, 20:01
Djordje Nikolic
Don't know if you knew but on one of these planes in Finland they used all Dornier Do 22 floats as a retrofit!
Don't know if you knew but on one of these planes in Finland they used all Dornier Do 22 floats as a retrofit!
13 May, 04:21
Gordon Sørensen
That is interesting, Djordje. The Do 22 is a little bit heavier, so I assume the floats were a bit bigger than the ones I am using.
Got the wings mounted, used a little Perfect Plastic Putty for the gap between the top of the fuselage and the wings.
Drilled holes in the tail and fuselage for the flying wires. Attached the E-Z Line to the bottom of the fuselage on one side, ran the Line through the horizontal stab, vertical stab, the other horizontal stab, and glue into the fuselage. The holes I drilled are a little too Big, will have to use a little putty.
That is interesting, Djordje. The Do 22 is a little bit heavier, so I assume the floats were a bit bigger than the ones I am using.
Got the wings mounted, used a little Perfect Plastic Putty for the gap between the top of the fuselage and the wings.
Drilled holes in the tail and fuselage for the flying wires. Attached the E-Z Line to the bottom of the fuselage on one side, ran the Line through the horizontal stab, vertical stab, the other horizontal stab, and glue into the fuselage. The holes I drilled are a little too Big, will have to use a little putty.
15 May, 15:00
Gordon Sørensen
Started the decalling, but ran into an issue…
The registration letters OY-ACA for the bottom of the left wing have to fit around the struts and wing fueltank details. I seperated the ACA, and that went down ok. Had a few issues with the Y - though. Trying to get the Y to fit around and in between the strut braces was a challenge. The major problem was that the O folded on itself and No amount of effort would see it usable. I am going to try using the 'remains' as a stencil and try painting it on…
Started the decalling, but ran into an issue…
The registration letters OY-ACA for the bottom of the left wing have to fit around the struts and wing fueltank details. I seperated the ACA, and that went down ok. Had a few issues with the Y - though. Trying to get the Y to fit around and in between the strut braces was a challenge. The major problem was that the O folded on itself and No amount of effort would see it usable. I am going to try using the 'remains' as a stencil and try painting it on…
25 May, 13:34
servalpe
új fotóalbumot adott hozzá.
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36 1 August, 16:25
Michael Kohl
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51 képek
DeHavilland DH.88 Comet 'Grosvenor House'1:72
The tail skid will be next. In my eyes it requires some modifications as its configuration seems ok with the tail of the...
45 4 December, 11:33
Michael Kohl
Those familiar with the kit might have noticed the absence of the firewall. I simply lost it and decided that I will just omit it as it is invisible anyway.
Those familiar with the kit might have noticed the absence of the firewall. I simply lost it and decided that I will just omit it as it is invisible anyway.
5 December, 17:42
bughunter
A very interesting plane! You made a good progress with another (parallel?) project 👍
A very interesting plane! You made a good progress with another (parallel?) project 👍
5 December, 18:39
Thomas Haberl - TH SCALE MODELS
Interesting build and very promising start - I´m in for this 🙂
Interesting build and very promising start - I´m in for this 🙂
9 December, 09:13
Nicolas
Interesting approach to simply sand the control surface structure in the primer. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a good result.
Interesting approach to simply sand the control surface structure in the primer. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a good result.
18 December, 13:53
Denis Dogadov
As a base for the red color, you need to use yellow, then the red will be bright.If you put red on white, you will get just pink.
As a base for the red color, you need to use yellow, then the red will be bright.If you put red on white, you will get just pink.
18 December, 14:08
bughunter
Michael, using different primers for one top coat is my idea! The usage of my idea is geBIERenpflichtig! 🙂
Michael, using different primers for one top coat is my idea! The usage of my idea is geBIERenpflichtig! 🙂
18 December, 15:38
Łukasz Gliński
Looks like you're the partial member of The Infanous Order of The Pink Primer 😋
Looks like you're the partial member of The Infanous Order of The Pink Primer 😋
18 December, 18:19
Michael Kohl
@ Nicolas: I cross my fingers too. But looks like I have to do some homework before the final coat (see below 🙂 )
@ Denis: thanks for your input. I tested your suggestion on a scrab wing. With LP-7 I get a nice hue as well over white primer and pink base alike. Problem is that there is almost no difference between them. Over yellow (XF-3) the red receives a rather orange hue which I do not like for this project. But I am optimistic to finetune that and use lighter yellow or buff as base coat and see how that turns out. I'll keep you posted.
@Frank: So, se wollen erheben ne kleene GeBIER?!
Da trifft es sich ja gut, dass mein diesjähriger Adventskalender aus 24 Flaschen feinem fränkischen Bier aus 24 verschiedenen Brauereien besteht. Es wird mir eine Freude sein, ein-zwei-drei mit Dir zu teilen - in N?! In M?! Gruß 🙂
@Lukasz: I applied, but as PartPrimerer I am only allowed into the Entree so far. Full membetship pending. 🙂
Welcome Guy
@ Nicolas: I cross my fingers too. But looks like I have to do some homework before the final coat (see below 🙂 )
@ Denis: thanks for your input. I tested your suggestion on a scrab wing. With LP-7 I get a nice hue as well over white primer and pink base alike. Problem is that there is almost no difference between them. Over yellow (XF-3) the red receives a rather orange hue which I do not like for this project. But I am optimistic to finetune that and use lighter yellow or buff as base coat and see how that turns out. I'll keep you posted.
@Frank: So, se wollen erheben ne kleene GeBIER?!
Da trifft es sich ja gut, dass mein diesjähriger Adventskalender aus 24 Flaschen feinem fränkischen Bier aus 24 verschiedenen Brauereien besteht. Es wird mir eine Freude sein, ein-zwei-drei mit Dir zu teilen - in N?! In M?! Gruß 🙂
@Lukasz: I applied, but as PartPrimerer I am only allowed into the Entree so far. Full membetship pending. 🙂
Welcome Guy
19 December, 09:52
Denis Dogadov
Yes, I will be interested in what your red color will turn out to be. I recently painted small parts red, but there was a noticeable difference in color, depending on the color of the soil. Perhaps your LP-7 is better.
Yes, I will be interested in what your red color will turn out to be. I recently painted small parts red, but there was a noticeable difference in color, depending on the color of the soil. Perhaps your LP-7 is better.
19 December, 10:09
Michael Kohl
I tested a couple of base coat variations for LP-7. A nice combination in my eyes is achieved when using Mr. Hobbycolor H413 yellow as base for the darker areas and pink (Tamiya X-17) for the lighter ones. But that would have meant to redo the whole base paint. So I stuck to my combination and mourned the loss of contrast.
I tested a couple of base coat variations for LP-7. A nice combination in my eyes is achieved when using Mr. Hobbycolor H413 yellow as base for the darker areas and pink (Tamiya X-17) for the lighter ones. But that would have meant to redo the whole base paint. So I stuck to my combination and mourned the loss of contrast.
21 December, 23:27
Łukasz Gliński
Add some white today and it will be perfect Xmas gift just in time 😋
Add some white today and it will be perfect Xmas gift just in time 😋
1 24 December, 09:43
Jakub Biganovsky
Really great job. I appreciate your approach.
I didn`t test different base color. I used GS Aquarius H23 at first piece at black surfacer, and it wasn`t fine. I will use gloss yellow at 2nd piece.
How did you do such perfect wing bottom side. It looks really nice. I had relatively big gap there and some residual step although I precisely brushed big material layer out from both wing half. Maybe, the used glue did a step at the end.
I thing, that this, wings bottom, is weakest part of this model although, as you ar writing, engine nacceles also need some attention.
Really great job. I appreciate your approach.
I didn`t test different base color. I used GS Aquarius H23 at first piece at black surfacer, and it wasn`t fine. I will use gloss yellow at 2nd piece.
How did you do such perfect wing bottom side. It looks really nice. I had relatively big gap there and some residual step although I precisely brushed big material layer out from both wing half. Maybe, the used glue did a step at the end.
I thing, that this, wings bottom, is weakest part of this model although, as you ar writing, engine nacceles also need some attention.
26 December, 13:04
Michael Kohl
Welcome mates and thanks for your encouraging and funny comments. Bottomline I am quite happy with the shade of red. I just haven't made up my mind about how gloss it should appear finally. If I would have had access to a cutter I would have scanned the bigger decals and cut masks for painting the letters.
Now what's left are the tail skid and a few bits and pieces at the wings and the stabiliser.
@Jakub: wing assembly requires some scraping and dry fitting. With super thin cement I didn't encounter any issues afterwards. But there still remains a considerable gap towards the flaps and ailerons which I filled with super glue.
Welcome mates and thanks for your encouraging and funny comments. Bottomline I am quite happy with the shade of red. I just haven't made up my mind about how gloss it should appear finally. If I would have had access to a cutter I would have scanned the bigger decals and cut masks for painting the letters.
Now what's left are the tail skid and a few bits and pieces at the wings and the stabiliser.
@Jakub: wing assembly requires some scraping and dry fitting. With super thin cement I didn't encounter any issues afterwards. But there still remains a considerable gap towards the flaps and ailerons which I filled with super glue.
27 December, 08:21
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