[Revell] VW Type 2 (T2) - WIP
Washed.
First, I trimmed down the parts that needed to be colored.
The marked area was not a perfect fit, so I applied heat to correct it.
The passenger side doors also needed fixing, so I taped them up and put them in the food dryer for a few days.
The driver's door fit perfectly.
I ripped the handle off the engine compartment because it was in the way of the polish.
Since I plan to paint it a light color, I painted the inside black surfacer to prevent sub-surface scattering.
I covered it again with white surfacer.
I forgot the engine compartment cover shown.
I forgot the engine compartment cover shown.
I then painted it a glossy white color.
I thought about patterning the sheets, but I couldn't be bothered, so I painted them yellow.
The colors are really pretty, but Scalemates makes the photo appear darker than the original. 🙁
I thought about patterning the sheets, but I couldn't be bothered, so I painted them yellow.
The colors are really pretty, but Scalemates makes the photo appear darker than the original. 🙁
Masked for two tone color.
Painted orange color.
Removed mask. I like it.
The parts still don't fit together perfectly, so I have to re-tape them and put them in the food dryer.
I bought white toner and made a floral decal. (motorart.tistory.com/772)
Because it is a laser printer toner, the bright color is bound to be light, but it was made into a floral pattern so that it would not look awkward even if the density was light.
Because it is a laser printer toner, the bright color is bound to be light, but it was made into a floral pattern so that it would not look awkward even if the density was light.
Other side.
Interior - racing white.
And, a part of the back of the chair was hidden in the corner of work table.
And, a part of the back of the chair was hidden in the corner of work table.
The areas where the masked line was not clean were cleaned up with a brush.
1st. clear coat.
2nd. clear coat.
3rd. clear coat.
After dried for a many days.
The decal was quite thick, so I sanded it down.
Last clear coat.
Sanded again.
I used rough compound.
And I used various compounds to achieve the final shine.
The surface isn't completely flat because of the decals, but I decided not to bother anymore.
The surface isn't completely flat because of the decals, but I decided not to bother anymore.
Banded... 🙁
I wish Revell would pay more attention to the packaging of their products.
I wish Revell would pay more attention to the packaging of their products.
I tried to bend it in hot water and it broke when I bent it impatiently.
I cut the transparent pla-plate for restore it.
I rounded off the corners to make it just right.
I tried to express the rubber of the window frame by cutting the plastic into thin pieces.
As expected, when I used non-resin adhesive for this project, it broke at places where I bent it too hard. In particular, quick-type adhesives seem to have a much higher chance of breaking.
As expected, when I used non-resin adhesive for this project, it broke at places where I bent it too hard. In particular, quick-type adhesives seem to have a much higher chance of breaking.
I changed the plan and used super glue.
Some of the plated parts were not molded cleanly.
Because of the location of the gate, it will have to be stripped and painted anyway.
Because of the location of the gate, it will have to be stripped and painted anyway.
As expected, the primer does not come off cleanly.
The bigger problem was that one of the wheel covers came off when I washed it in the sink.
The bigger problem was that one of the wheel covers came off when I washed it in the sink.
I used silicone putty to replicate the lost hubcap.
This time, I had to duplicate both sides, so I made a mold for the back as well, and dug a path on both sides so that the resin can escape when the molds are overlapped.
Curing did not proceed properly. I tried again by changing the hardener ratio to 2:1, but it did not harden at all and even the mold was damaged. The resin I have is about 20 years old, and I think it's because it's so old.
I remade mold only the front side and copied it this time with UV resin.
And then I dug out the inside of the other side.
And then I dug out the inside of the other side.
The reason I had to dig out the inside was because of the orange part seen on the right.
These parts require detail-up.
First, I worked on a simple room mirror.
I used cloth pin and very thin aluminium plate.
And I sanded the end of the aluminum rod into a round shape.
Then, when assembled, it will look like this.
Since the wiper had good details, I decided to trim only the marked parts and use them.
For these parts, it was decided to replace only the rod with iron.
Like this.
Masked windows. This tape is a Trumpeter product, but the adhesive strength was so weak that it kept moving when I cut into it. So I ended up tearing it all down and masking it with GSI products.
The tail lamp surface was not smooth, so I sanded it and polished it. (left)
I painted dark gray, black surfacer.
Painted flat aluminum, white surfacer and I painted gloss black for chrome.
I painted gloss white and gloss clear for chrome.
Painted chrome. Gloss coated emblem.
I painted panel-line.
And I painted with paint bursh.
On the left, chrome sheet (vinyl) was used, but the edges were wrinkled due to the embossing of the rivets.
So I tore it all apart and used the new aluminum foil (metal) from Tamiya.
As you can see, it was finished neatly.
It feels very similar to bare metal foil, but only slightly better.
So I tore it all apart and used the new aluminum foil (metal) from Tamiya.
As you can see, it was finished neatly.
It feels very similar to bare metal foil, but only slightly better.
Ready to assemble.
Because I painted the snap kit, I had to enlarge the assembly holes and assemble it.
The assembly of the under body has been completed.
Assembled seats.
Attached on the inner plate.
Another view.
Windows were installed.
There are quite a few windows, but compared to Hasegawa's T1 bus, they are about half as quantity.
Best of all, since it is a snap tite, there was no stress in attaching it on.
However, if the window is not properly trimmed after pre-assembly, the thin window frame will become bent.
There are quite a few windows, but compared to Hasegawa's T1 bus, they are about half as quantity.
Best of all, since it is a snap tite, there was no stress in attaching it on.
However, if the window is not properly trimmed after pre-assembly, the thin window frame will become bent.
I like this color scheme.
It is simply installed on the inside of the front of the vehicle.
The mask is designed to hold the door so that it does not fall off.
Assembling the top and bottom plates is a bit tricky.
I had to fit the back into place first, then insert the front to a certain extent, and then forcefully push it in while spreading the arrow parts apart.
I had to fit the back into place first, then insert the front to a certain extent, and then forcefully push it in while spreading the arrow parts apart.
Attached side mirror. almost done.
The Scale Mate album seems to transform the image into a dark and cloudy one 🙁
The Scale Mate album seems to transform the image into a dark and cloudy one 🙁
Assembled all face parts.
Assembled all rear parts.
And lastly, attached metal sticker.
Well. It's done.
While I was attaching the keyhole, one of the pieces escaped from the tweezers and I lost it, and it's stuck over there (fuel cover).
Thanks for watching. 😉
Thanks for watching. 😉
Hozzászólások
50 13 June, 16:23
Bill NewcomerI had some adventures in a microbus with some of my cousins back in the early 70's
27 June, 00:20
BozzerSorry to chip in, MS, but this may help you in the future.
When you remove the chrome, there's a residue underneath. That's sometimes, the reason why there's imperfections in the chrome. The residue is some form of clear coat, that's used before the chrome? That can be removed by soaking in brake fluid, for a while. I've had this issue, mainly with Revell chrome, and it doesn't look great. Sometimes, there's a huge blob, and they just chrome over it. Quality control, needs a kick up the butt, at the factory.
Hope this helps you.
14 August, 21:20
Robert PodkońskiI'm a little late, but from now I will be watching this talent show for sure 🙂
16 August, 06:24
Matteo Pescarinthanks a lot of sharing, now I'm intrigued... what printer do you have you can use a white toner with it???
16 August, 12:12
Bruce HuxtableLiking your 'no problem is insurmountable' attitude, and the results 🙂 Inspiring work for sure 🙂
16 August, 12:22
MS K@Matteo Pescarin - There are printers that can use white custom toner. However, it is not as opaque as the commercial decals, so it honestly falls below my expectations.
What I use is ghost white toner.
At first, I planned to buy an Alps printer, but I had no choice but to give up because it only supported Windows XP.
16 August, 14:07
SpanjaardI did not know about this ghost white, or is a pitty that just one cartridge seems to be about 300Eur, and if you say that the quality is not good enough......
16 August, 21:07
Robin (WhiteGlint)Wonderful work! The Spike decal on the top is a nice little detail.
20 August, 08:16
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