Dragon 6493
Hozzászólások
8 March 2014, 16:05
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Progress???..you know, I look at allot of armor in various stages of assembly and often see a fully assembled tracked vehicle completely unpainted.
I wonder how in the heck the hull behind the wheels are painted? Or in some German tanks with overlapping wheels, how the wheels are painted??let alone the tracks.
They all must be loose fitted or the person has two identical models being built at the same time. One to show construction stages and one to show a final product?????
Anyway, I digress???I always paint the wheels and lower hull as I assemble the kit.
Here, the wheels are painted and loose fitted??..the hull behind the wheel is painted??no pigments; you won't be able to see a thing back there when the cumbersome beast is complete???.
This is the ground run for one side???..18 major links compose this stretch????
8 March 2014, 16:06
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Hi James, your questions are also mine.
I work the same way you do. Partly assembly, painting, continue assemling, painting a.s.o.
8 March 2014, 16:25
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I usually complete the lower hull and "dry-assemble" the running gear. After you´re done with the tracks you can remove the entire running gear again and complete the modell... but that does not really work with fenders like the Tiger II had...
8 March 2014, 16:36
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Ready to rock; at least on one side. I'll start with the port side. All of the pieces have been cleaned up; 34 each of the two major links, 104 small links: not counting the completed ground run. I think this should be right. I've crunched the numbers a few times enough so that I'm doubting my results.
The ground run is primed for easy reference and the axles have been hit with liquid tape.
9 March 2014, 14:04
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There's a jig for doing tracks that came with a King Tiger I made that looks like it might work for this, but really, I see no real advantage to using it.
9 March 2014, 14:06
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thanks rascar, this thing is fairly easy, the 5 piece tracks were no problem....I'm about 3/4 of the way done with the assembly.........
14 March 2014, 20:59
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seeing your completed tracks is going to give me the courage to start my Porsche Tiger
15 March 2014, 01:57
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The thing that made the tracks so easy, William, is the running gear on the AFV. Compared to Tigers and Panthers, the wheels on this thing are downright primitive. Just don't glue the idler wheel or the front sprocket wheel and the tracks are easier than any other AFV that I've ever put magic tracks on.
Now I'm putting all the piddly stuff on and messing with some photo-etch tool clamps and stuff. I haven't messed with any PE in a while; I'm taking this option (as opposed to the molded on clamps) just to keep my skills somewhat honed??..
This kit kind of sucks because there are several attachments on both sides of the upper hull where the tow cables are supposed to go and there are no marks to indicate the precise location. So, I'll see if I can find some molded cables + clamps from a Tiger that might be in my spare parts box. This should circumvent this issue.
On my folding tool is a jig that was supplied with a Tiger 1 I finished recently. The jig is for these clamps and handles. Interesting thing is, an identical jig is provided for the Jagdtiger (I discovered it by accident) but there is no indication in the instructions that it exists. I tried using it and am fairly clumsy with it and am finding that my tried and true folding tool and dowel set is much more comfortable for me??..new photo added.
15 March 2014, 02:21
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Nice work James. P.E. clamps are a vast improvement over molded clamps. I use them whenever I can. I keep several A.M. sets on hand.
15 March 2014, 02:49
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Question: There was a thread over in Armorama about the handles of the wire cutters/bolt cutters being made out of some sort of material that was resistant to electricity. Anyone remember what that stuff was called? I think it started with a "T" and the color of it was sort of an orange?
15 March 2014, 03:18
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im not sure of the name but i know the handles are made of pressed paper and coated with resin which then gives it a reddish type of appearance the ends (caps) are made of Bakelite
15 March 2014, 03:24
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Thanks George...I'm still pondering a paint scheme....Adam Wilder did a Jagdtiger that has a hard edge; I've been mulling that one over.
That sounds right william, thanks! I need every advantage I can get when it comes to detailing tools! I saw Mig has a new set out dedicated to tools, but I think I'll pass on that one. I've got a million Vallejo colors so it's just got to be a matter of practicing.
15 March 2014, 03:26
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I believe this is an Adam Wilder build, it sure looks like one>>[img1]
15 March 2014, 03:31
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i saw the same set and i came to the same conclusion I'm no tool painting expert but what i do is use the Vallejo panzer aces wood color and then i either use a reddish transparent filter or i use Tamiya's clear orange to give it a honey color depending on what I'm looking for, oh i try to replicate (with out much success) wood grain with black oil paint streaked with thinner
15 March 2014, 03:33
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James
I have the new mig ammo stuff
I am apart of the company
the paints are great and dont need thinning
worth the 12 dollars
18 March 2014, 02:03
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I saw your take on the pigments Hunter, nothing on the paints though. Pigments, except on the lower hull they never seem to work the same way twice (at least for me). Not a problem.
22 March 2014, 13:05
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The paint is later today
it comes pre thinned and can be cleaned with water easily
the pigments are like all pigmemts exct more dense.
the nature effect stuff makes some cool spatter effect
22 March 2014, 13:13
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Thanks George, yep it's done........I just got to get it out of the case and go around it a couple of more times to tighten it up......then tighten up the KV-2 that's going into the contest..........post some pics tomorrow probably............
3 April 2014, 00:55
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Thanks Matt and rascar........This thing has weaseled its way back onto the bench.....putting finishing touches on it and a KV-2.......
5 April 2014, 01:37