Novità
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![1:35 Dakar (OAK MODEL OL-9002) OL-9002](/products/img/3/3/1/1568331-138277-90-t180.jpg)
Dakar M1124 MaxxPro MRAP & HMMWV M1114 [Limited Edition]
OAK MODEL 1:35
OL-9002 2024* Kit di montaggio Argomento multiplo (2)4 September, 04:10
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ha iniziato questo oggetto
![1:72 U.S. Aircraft Weapon Loading Set (Hasegawa 35005-600) 35005-600](/products/img/0/5/0/1369050-125030-12-t180.jpg)
U.S. Aircraft Weapon Loading Set
Hasegawa 1:72
35005-600 (X72: 5) 2008 Nuova scatola Argomento multiplo (3)4 September, 04:06
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![1:48 Mitsubishi J2M3 Interceptor Raiden Jack (Tamiya 89759) 89759](/products/img/3/9/6/136396-10911-t180.jpg)
Mitsubishi J2M3 Interceptor Raiden Jack w/4x4 Light Vehicle Type 95 Kurogane & Maintenance Crew
Tamiya 1:48
89759 2008 Nuove parti Argomento multiplo (3)4 September, 04:06
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aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
23 immagini
Cigars of the Pharaoh (Puss Moth)![View album, image #16 View album, image #16](/albums/img/6/8/6/1798686-26441-44-720.jpg)
1:72
Progetto: Cigars of the Pharaoh (Puss Moth)
59 26 March, 05:19
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Go for it Greg - not much room for wiring though! I also thought you'd go for one of the AVI/LF styrene kits.
26 March, 11:30
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If I hadn't got excited and spent $35 on this kit 5 years ago after seeing your build, I probably would've gone with the styrene - they do look really good. Oh, well, we work with what we've got...
Of course... that's only until I figure out that the correct version of the Puss Moth is the Mk. V and not the Mk. XIV and then I can't unsee the problems... 🙂
26 March, 16:00
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As for the wiring, I've drilled out the engine cowling to create enough room to slot in the DC motor. It's VERY tight and I was very careful not to breach the surface. I haven't tested it yet, but I think I was able to get close enough. The small DC motors always have such a small shaft, which can be helpful but sometimes creates a challenge. I'll run two thin wires out and then hide them behind a small, scratchbuilt control panel. Then under the styrene floor and down through a hole in the underside of the fuselage. I'll have to put a resistor on it in the base, otherwise the motor will likely spin this little plan apart. 🙂
26 March, 16:07
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This is interesting! I'm following. I have a question. How do you connect the motor to the propeller?
26 March, 16:42
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Because I can't quite get the DC motor out of the engine cowling due to the size, I'll have to add a styrene rod to the propellor and then have it go into the cowling. To attach it to the motor itself, I'll likely drill a small hole (about the same diameter as the DC motor shaft) into the short styrene rod and then fit it to the motor shaft with a tiny bit of CA glue (making sure not to get the glue INTO the motor itself). Then I'll glue to styrene rod to the propellor. It'll be tricky to keep everything centred, otherwise the spin will be off. I'll take lots of pictures to show the process... if it works. 😉
26 March, 17:06
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I am asking about the centering. I have some experience with DC motors. I have several similar ones collected from children's toys, but I dare not try.
26 March, 17:16
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Centering... well now... usually what I do is drill a hole as close to the centre as I can manage it... then I drill a little bit this way... then a little bit that way... then I slice the rod until I get a bit that is arguably in the centre...
Then I ignore the wobble. 🙂
26 March, 20:29
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Alright. Some progress. I have out some of the cockpit to make room for the extra windows. I was as eloquent as Uwe, so I covered my mistakes up with some thin sheet polystyrene. Put in some wires to reinforce the wings, and got the propeller spinning. So far so good, I think.
27 March, 05:50
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OOH. An Omega kit - I have one of their BN Islanders - Watching this one.
29 March, 19:45
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Got the fuselage more or less put together and painted the interior. Next up will be fitting in the windows… if I'm not back in a day or two, notify the authorities. 😉
3 April, 05:21
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The frame of those windows seems very fragile being resin. You have great skill, Greg!
3 April, 17:45
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Thanks Cuajete - the resin is quite tricky to work with and I had to add in some extra windows, so it was a bit touch and go. I did copy Uwe's idea to use some wire supports to both hold the wings on and provide some structural stability. The only problem is that I put one of them in the wrong spot and had to cut it out to remove and replace it.
3 April, 17:50
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After an enormous amount of fiddling, I finally got the windows in place and Tintin, Snowy, and the medical kit seated. Now I can start to close it up. Thanks god.
12 April, 06:38
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Nice project again. A resin kit is always tricky and the tiny parts fragile, especially the u\c. Luckily this one will be flying. btw , Greg, do you mind making the propeller spinning in the opposite direction, so that it pushes itself in place ? I did it on some of my models, it is hardly visible . The main advantage is that you don't need to glue the propeller to the motor axle with ca, just a little bit of tacky paste inside the propeller tube will be enough.
18 April, 06:54
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Greg is building an Omega resin bird 👍 I have some in my stash - in 1:48 as usual - but have not started one until now.
18 April, 12:53
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You're right, Erik. I replaced almost the entire upper canopy framing with polystyrene and wire. I had to add some windows to this kit and wanted some consistency in the thickness of the frame. It was tricky to get everything glued in place, but I got it done more or less to my satisfaction. I'm hesitant to add the u/c elements because they seem rather fragile, but you're also right that it being in-flight will help a lot.
18 April, 14:09
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I'm intrigued by the opposite spinning propellor idea. I can see where that might make things easier. Hmmmm...
18 April, 14:11
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You haven't missed much... I had to redo much of the canopy... updated photos coming soon~
6 May, 19:03
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And... we're back. As I mentioned, the canopy basically fell apart while trying to install the windows, but it seems to be stable now. I also added a small tail wheel (as in the reference image) that I scavenged from the spares box. Next up, paint it pink and fix any issues that reveals. 🙂
23 August, 18:21
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The first of my "back to school" photo album updates. This was a really challenging kit to build. I'm not sure how Uwe did such a great job on his version... The canopy/wing spar almost defeated me. The clear parts are a lot less clear than I would've liked, but at least you can tell who's flying the plane, right?
3 September, 16:21
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Great job for this hard kit, Greg. Good paint finish. Definitely much better with the wire crossbars and can see perfectly who is inside 👍
Congrats!
3 September, 17:42
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You finished this kit to a nice looking miniature diorama 👍
The Omega resin kits seems to be not that easy. I have some in my stash - one day in future I will try one.
3 September, 17:43
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Thanks guys! I can honestly say, the Omega resin kit left a lot to be desired. It might have gone together more easily if I hadn't carved out a larger cockpit area and added the cross bars. That really set me back a lot. Also, the surface in many areas (especially the wings) was not particularly clean. Defects in the mould made for odd blobs and scratches that needed to be sanded or filled to the best of my abilities.
3 September, 17:50
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articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
![1:24 2024 Chevrolet Camaro L1 (Salvinos JR Models HMC2024CELA) HMC2024CELA](/products/img/7/8/4/1572784-27627-75-t180.png)
#9 Chase Elliott
2024 Chevrolet Camaro L1 White NAPA Scheme Salvinos JR Models 1:24
HMC2024CELA 2024 Nuove decalcomanie 4 September, 03:56
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![1:24 Typhoon undercarriage set (Airfix) (Aerocraft Models ACM-24012) ACM-24012](/products/img/3/0/8/1286308-33840-24-t180.jpg)
Typhoon undercarriage set (Airfix)
Aerocraft Models 1:24
ACM-24012 4 September, 03:51
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![1:24 Typhoon undercarriage set (Airfix) (Aerocraft Models ACM-24012) ACM-24012](/products/img/3/0/8/1286308-33840-24-t180.jpg)
Typhoon undercarriage set (Airfix)
Aerocraft Models 1:24
ACM-24012 4 September, 03:51
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![1:48 Ta 152H Mainwheels Smooth Tire (Barracuda Studios BR48395) BR48395](/products/img/6/8/5/1237685-22681-34-t180.jpg)
Ta 152H Mainwheels Smooth Tire
Barracuda Studios 1:48
BR48395 4 September, 03:45
![](/profiles/img/95941-930-s.jpg)
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![1:32 Armament for German fighter Ta 152 (Aber A32 116) A32 116](/products/img/1/8/6/1372186-101265-33-t180.jpg)
Armament for German fighter Ta 152 Versions H-0 to H-4; H-7 to H-12
Aber 1:32
A32 116 2021 Nuovo stampo 4 September, 03:44
![](/profiles/img/95941-930-s.jpg)
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![1:32 Focke-Wulf Ta-152H-0/Ta-152H-1 (1ManArmy 32DET022) 32DET022](/products/img/7/5/5/1491755-19715-76-t180.jpg)
Focke-Wulf Ta-152H-0/Ta-152H-1 (designed to be used with Zoukei-Mura SWS kits)
1ManArmy 1:32
32DET022 4 September, 03:43
![](/profiles/img/18821-901-s.jpg)
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
31 immagini
1995 Chevrolet Corvette ZR-1 C4 - blue - wip![View album, image #31 View album, image #31](/albums/img/4/2/9/1744429-18821-71-720.jpg)
1:25
Progetto: 1995 Chevrolet Corvette ZR-1 C4 - blue
37 14 February, 06:30
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I think the basics are fine. Now to the brush and detailing.
Not to forget: painting the body.
18 February, 13:22
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As a base color I painted the C4 black. Dann, it looks not bad. Maybe I'll make one black one day.
21 February, 20:38
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That's a nice deep blue! I'll have to keep this in mind, for a Peterbilt I'm doing in the future 😉
22 February, 12:36
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Thank you very much! The test spraying brought exactly that result, I'm aming for. Important is,that I'm using black as base color. I did the same with my Yenko Camaro. Green on black is pretty dark (1969 Chevrolet Camaro Yenko/SC 427 Coupe | Album by christian-w (1:25))
23 February, 08:16
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This is a great blue. I should experiment more with underlying base colours too.
23 February, 08:34
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@Martin ... You should! A big advantage is that you can regulate the intensity of the color by spraying thin layers. You don't need to apply as much paint to the kit as long as the paint is opaque. There the black does its job.
25 February, 18:47
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Did some detailing. I'm not sure about the shiny seats. I think I have to overdo them again.
3 March, 10:38
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Thank you very much! I'm excited how the color will work after the clear cote. It should be a bit darker.
And I thougt about the shiny seats. I'll change that back to kinda semigolss.
18 March, 06:00
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Lately I did some parts new. Nearly every C4 by AMT/ERTL (there is only one kit with clear parts for them) comes with black bumperlights in the kit. That is so stupid. When I built my first C4 I did a mold and solved that problem. On this kit, one rearlight was missing - did another mold. At least, it is the first kit where are headlights included. Pretty detail but molded in white styrene. Again: another mold done.
After that, I wrapped the headlight into BMF foil to get it lighter inside after the painting is dano (not so far).
The bumper lights and rear light are painted and ready to install.
btw: the engine took place in the chassis.
24 May, 05:07
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Nice job. The colour really suits it. Great work on the interior and engine as well.
4 September, 03:42
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