Novità
Grzegorz Siuta
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
13 immagini
An26 Polish Air Force nr 1602Nuovo: 7 November, 21:02 1:72
Progetto: An-26 Polish Air Force
9 7 November, 21:01
MS K
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
111 immagini
[Revell] Ford GT LM 2017 - WIPNuovo: 8 November, 06:16 1:24
I cut a piece of nylon mesh and attached it to the air intake that had been removed.
Progetto: [Revell] Ford GT Le Mans 2017
40 17 October, 16:21
Gerald Sigmund
@mks: Komakais Walkaround shows meshes for the left and right intakes and none for the center one.
@mks: Komakais Walkaround shows meshes for the left and right intakes and none for the center one.
18 October, 14:10
Bozzer
I have no idea of your subject, but I do enjoy your builds. The tutorial is always a lesson, and very informative. Keep them coming 👍
I have no idea of your subject, but I do enjoy your builds. The tutorial is always a lesson, and very informative. Keep them coming 👍
18 October, 22:02
Michael Kohl
Martin and Bozzer pointed it out. This will be fun and informative to follow.
Martin and Bozzer pointed it out. This will be fun and informative to follow.
21 October, 07:35
Matteo Pescarin
Oh wow, as usual, fantastic documentation of the efforts going into this project. Chapeau to you!
Nonetheless, it makes me want to skip any Revell kit from now on... if I only didn't have any in my stash XD
Oh wow, as usual, fantastic documentation of the efforts going into this project. Chapeau to you!
Nonetheless, it makes me want to skip any Revell kit from now on... if I only didn't have any in my stash XD
21 October, 07:53
MS K
@Matteo - The new mold products produced since around 2010 are generally nice quality(2CV, VW T1, 911G, Etc...) , but this product is so poorly made that it is ridiculous. I don't know what the production concept of this kit is. It is poor for a precision model, and it's not even easy to assemble.
@Matteo - The new mold products produced since around 2010 are generally nice quality(2CV, VW T1, 911G, Etc...) , but this product is so poorly made that it is ridiculous. I don't know what the production concept of this kit is. It is poor for a precision model, and it's not even easy to assemble.
21 October, 08:48
Michael Kohl
With Revell you better check in advance how that specific kit is rated by others. They have tons of reboxes and quite a few kits where you just wanna ask: are you serious? But then, once in a while, just to show that they are able - in general - to be a serious modelling company, they release some really fine stuff. Doesn't hurt to be prepared what you're up against.
With Revell you better check in advance how that specific kit is rated by others. They have tons of reboxes and quite a few kits where you just wanna ask: are you serious? But then, once in a while, just to show that they are able - in general - to be a serious modelling company, they release some really fine stuff. Doesn't hurt to be prepared what you're up against.
21 October, 08:50
Alexander Grivonev
A true Revell car kit experience 👍 The casted on wiper is especially painful
A true Revell car kit experience 👍 The casted on wiper is especially painful
21 October, 09:25
Michael Kohl
That diffusor is a tremendous improvement.
amazon.com/dp/B00004..aps%2C163&sr=8-3
Such a tool makes such work as fitting the diffusor panels to the chassis much easier (the thinner the needles/pins, the more precise the contour).
Just a german site to give an idea.
Cheers Michael
That diffusor is a tremendous improvement.
amazon.com/dp/B00004..aps%2C163&sr=8-3
Such a tool makes such work as fitting the diffusor panels to the chassis much easier (the thinner the needles/pins, the more precise the contour).
Just a german site to give an idea.
Cheers Michael
21 October, 15:04
MS K
Nice idea. I wish there was something made of insect pins thin enough to use in a plamodel.
Nice idea. I wish there was something made of insect pins thin enough to use in a plamodel.
21 October, 15:52
MS K
@berni - The red is Italian Red, and I plan to use Cobalt Blue + Sky Blue (the instructions say to mix Ultramarine and Blue).
@berni - The red is Italian Red, and I plan to use Cobalt Blue + Sky Blue (the instructions say to mix Ultramarine and Blue).
22 October, 14:09
Denis Dogadov
I make up the silkscreen on the glass with a very thinly sliced masking tape.
[img1]
[img2]
I make up the silkscreen on the glass with a very thinly sliced masking tape.
[img1]
[img2]
24 October, 15:32
MS K
@Denis - Yeah, I used to do it that way too, before I started using masking film.
My advice is that when masking that way, 'Tamiya masking tape for curves' is much easier than paper tape.
Youtube Video
@Denis - Yeah, I used to do it that way too, before I started using masking film.
My advice is that when masking that way, 'Tamiya masking tape for curves' is much easier than paper tape.
Youtube Video
25 October, 19:17
Bobby McKellar
vuole questo oggetto
vuole questo oggetto
McDonnell RF-101B Voodoo of Air National Guard Camouflage painting mask
LF Models 1:48
M4877 2020 Nuovo stampo 8 November, 06:15
ChucklesZeClown
possiede questo oggetto
possiede questo oggetto
IJN Battleship Mikasa "The Battle of the Japan Sea" First Production w/Bonus items
Hasegawa 1:350
40021 (Z21) 2005 Nuovo stampo 8 November, 06:13
Joachim P.
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
Eurofighter Typhoon single seater `JG74 50th Anniversary´ Limited Edition
Hasegawa 1:72
02097 2014 Nuove decalcomanie 8 November, 06:12
Arthur Bozrikov
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
4 immagini
Autogiro "Calidus" 1/72 3D Nuovo: 8 November, 06:11 1:72
Progetto: Autogiro "Calidus" 1/72
Scratchbuilt
8 November, 06:05
ChucklesZeClown
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
Sea Master 1:200 Series
Japanese Battleship Mikasa (1905) Armament 305 mm/40, 152 mm/40, 76 mm/40, 47 mm/40 Master 1:200
SM-200-009 2017 Nuovo stampo Argomento multiplo (5)8 November, 06:10
Mitch Papaioannou
possiede questo oggetto
possiede questo oggetto
Deal's Wheels
Flt. Lft. RIF RAF and his Spitsfire Old School Revell
85-1738 (85-7237) 2007 Nuova scatola 8 November, 06:07
Honza Aznoh
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
articolo contrassegnato come in ordine
Mirage 2000EG/EGM, BG/BGM, -5EG, 5BG Hellenic Air Force
Syhart (Syh@rt) 1:72
72-106 2017 Nuovo stampo Argomento multiplo (1!!)8 November, 05:57
Hang Li
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
aggiunto un nuovo album fotografico.
46 24 June, 07:48
Thomas Wirsching
Great job so far! I would love to get an explanation about how to do these LED lighting in detail as I have no idea about this.
Great job so far! I would love to get an explanation about how to do these LED lighting in detail as I have no idea about this.
8 July, 05:04
Hang Li
Thanks Tim, Villiers, and Thomas. I did put a led for the trolled sonar bay back at the stern. It is apparently not bright enough to be really visible. Probably not noticeable after finished.
I prefer to use Led tape light as it has build in resistors so I don't need do calculation to figure out the resistor value. Once that is sorted, what left is just connect the led unit with a battery and a switch. I think it is better to ask a trained electrician as the circiut I built don't last long and I don't really know why.
Thanks Tim, Villiers, and Thomas. I did put a led for the trolled sonar bay back at the stern. It is apparently not bright enough to be really visible. Probably not noticeable after finished.
I prefer to use Led tape light as it has build in resistors so I don't need do calculation to figure out the resistor value. Once that is sorted, what left is just connect the led unit with a battery and a switch. I think it is better to ask a trained electrician as the circiut I built don't last long and I don't really know why.
9 July, 12:37
Michael Kohl
I expect modelling of the highest quality from your bench. So far I am not disappointed. 🙂
Keep it up.
I expect modelling of the highest quality from your bench. So far I am not disappointed. 🙂
Keep it up.
6 August, 09:58
Treehugger
Hm, how long did it take to make the nice looking ocean surface? It certainly looks like a fun project.
I wish I knew how to make such ocean surfaces, as it really seem to complete a model with such a diorama.
I am no expert on led's but my impression is that one has to be careful that the voltage to the led's is controlled to specs, so they don't burn out shortly after and end up being un-repairable inside the model. Also, something about connecting led's in parallel, pattern iirc, to avoid one dead led blacking out all the rest of the leds in a serial connection, iirc.
Hm, how long did it take to make the nice looking ocean surface? It certainly looks like a fun project.
I wish I knew how to make such ocean surfaces, as it really seem to complete a model with such a diorama.
I am no expert on led's but my impression is that one has to be careful that the voltage to the led's is controlled to specs, so they don't burn out shortly after and end up being un-repairable inside the model. Also, something about connecting led's in parallel, pattern iirc, to avoid one dead led blacking out all the rest of the leds in a serial connection, iirc.
25 August, 09:36
Hang Li
Thanks Treehugger, THomas and Tim.
As for the sea base, you can check a YouTube channel called ''studio blue ocean'', I basically followed his videos. And treehugger did a pretty good summary for LEDs. The voltages is very important and it is always needed to put some resistors in series to potect the LEDs. The size of the resistors can be calculated with ohms' law. There are small circuit boards for LEDs which can be used to make everything easier.
Thanks Treehugger, THomas and Tim.
As for the sea base, you can check a YouTube channel called ''studio blue ocean'', I basically followed his videos. And treehugger did a pretty good summary for LEDs. The voltages is very important and it is always needed to put some resistors in series to potect the LEDs. The size of the resistors can be calculated with ohms' law. There are small circuit boards for LEDs which can be used to make everything easier.
8 September, 12:51
Villiers de Vos
Fantastic work with all the photoetch parts. Your attention to detail shows.
Fantastic work with all the photoetch parts. Your attention to detail shows.
14 September, 03:48
Thomas Wirsching
Getting better and better; can you please show us a detail picture from the inside of the hangar? Did you build this from scratch?
Getting better and better; can you please show us a detail picture from the inside of the hangar? Did you build this from scratch?
14 September, 03:49
Hang Li
Thanks, Rui and Villiers. I just masked the hangar as I am going to paint the outside. I will get better hangar photos once finish. The trumpster kit comes with the hangar and the ceiling is in good detail (I only add LEDs to the ceiling). Only the walls need additional work to add details, like handrails, supports etc.
Thanks, Rui and Villiers. I just masked the hangar as I am going to paint the outside. I will get better hangar photos once finish. The trumpster kit comes with the hangar and the ceiling is in good detail (I only add LEDs to the ceiling). Only the walls need additional work to add details, like handrails, supports etc.
14 September, 12:27
Ingmar Stöhr
Wow! Fantastic detail work and great job on the weathering and the base!
Wow! Fantastic detail work and great job on the weathering and the base!
25 October, 06:13
Ingmar Stöhr
@Hang Li: For the 'oil canning' effect. Did you have accurate plans for the frame spacing or how did you come up with the pattern you used? I have to say that is look really convincing after some more weathering effects are applied on top.
@Hang Li: For the 'oil canning' effect. Did you have accurate plans for the frame spacing or how did you come up with the pattern you used? I have to say that is look really convincing after some more weathering effects are applied on top.
25 October, 10:09
Hang Li
thanks Ingmar, Gary and Villiers. As for the 'oil canning' effect, I found some photos which are somewhat visible for this effect as reference for the pattern and I have to simplifie the pattern to make it practical. So it is not quite accurate. I got some pre-cutted masking paper in 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm and I just picked one that I believe is most suitable.
thanks Ingmar, Gary and Villiers. As for the 'oil canning' effect, I found some photos which are somewhat visible for this effect as reference for the pattern and I have to simplifie the pattern to make it practical. So it is not quite accurate. I got some pre-cutted masking paper in 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm and I just picked one that I believe is most suitable.
26 October, 10:58
Ingmar Stöhr
Thank you for the explanation! It looks convincing to me! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the explanation! It looks convincing to me! Keep up the great work!
26 October, 11:52
Miguel Vaquero
Amazing build!! Did you use resin for the sea base? If so, how did you manage to make that rough sea surface? It looks amazing
Amazing build!! Did you use resin for the sea base? If so, how did you manage to make that rough sea surface? It looks amazing
7 November, 08:54
Thomas Wirsching
astonishing build and breathtaking seascape. Hats off to your talent!
astonishing build and breathtaking seascape. Hats off to your talent!
7 November, 15:42
Hang Li
Thanks, everyone. As for the material used for the sea base, I normally use high-density insulation foam (blue sheet from my early photos) and clay. I think many people build diorama this way. I believe there are more sophisticated methods nowadays. I saw someone using CFD modeling to simulate the wave pattern and 3D printing the entiry sea base in Chinese formus.
Thanks, everyone. As for the material used for the sea base, I normally use high-density insulation foam (blue sheet from my early photos) and clay. I think many people build diorama this way. I believe there are more sophisticated methods nowadays. I saw someone using CFD modeling to simulate the wave pattern and 3D printing the entiry sea base in Chinese formus.
7 November, 23:58
Ingmar Stöhr
I tried the 3D printing method once, but only for something like 10x10cm, as that is the maximum for my printer and I did not see how I could glue several pieces together without visible seam. The seascape was generated in Blender and I have to say it looked stunning! BUT I feel a lot of the final effect and realism comes from painting and here you are doing a superb job! I will definitely take your work as my inspiration for my next take on displaying water!
I tried the 3D printing method once, but only for something like 10x10cm, as that is the maximum for my printer and I did not see how I could glue several pieces together without visible seam. The seascape was generated in Blender and I have to say it looked stunning! BUT I feel a lot of the final effect and realism comes from painting and here you are doing a superb job! I will definitely take your work as my inspiration for my next take on displaying water!
8 November, 05:54
/it/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
search-solr.php?lang=it
35
35
/it/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
35
todo