Hasegawa 1/48 VF-1S Strike Valkyrie with some photoetched parts
Sprues and box lid
Sprues
Box lid I matted & framed after having Shoji Kawamori (Valkyrie designer) & Hidetaka Tenjin (boxart artist) sign it at Otakon 2023 (Washington, DC)!
Managed to snag both the weapons set and the photo-etch parts from Plaza Japan! Even after shipping it would've cost me about the same amount to get 1 of them from eBay!
Red Flag #1: the photoetch cockpit side panels do NOT match up with the parts (methinks the etched are actually
Seriously? You have to glue in these tiny slivers of plastic inside the engine nozzles ("feet")?! And keep them aligned with about a millimeter high rid
Initial parts assembly and 1st round (of 3!) TRYING to sand out seams :|
AKA Red Flag #2.
AKA Red Flag #2.
I thought this kind of thing only happened in kits made in the 1970s and 80s?? Bandai HG & RG kits have spoiled me!
Red flag #3: The instructions did not make it clear (at least to me) where the booster mount panel was to be glued... Guess what? It's not where you see it here. the top should be aligned not flush at that edge, but vertically along that ridge that tops out about 2/3 of the way to the rear...
Red flag #3 Exhibit A
Yes, I bought the etched set. but nose strakes are not flat sheets of metal. So I've sanded down the original rectangular plastic parts to mimic the actual shapes.
Yet more misaligned parts that I had to sand for days then realize it obliterated the panel lines...
A "win!"
At least the Mission Models Paint (Cold-Rolled Steel) looks good on the FAST pack thrusters!
In fact, as I began to spray, starting at the base of the thruster bells, I realized that the molded blue gave color through the misted paint at the bell's edge, giving the impression of super-heated metal. So I went with it!
At least the Mission Models Paint (Cold-Rolled Steel) looks good on the FAST pack thrusters!
In fact, as I began to spray, starting at the base of the thruster bells, I realized that the molded blue gave color through the misted paint at the bell's edge, giving the impression of super-heated metal. So I went with it!
Even the smaller thrusters turned out well!
I wish I could say the same when it came to hitting the fuselage, etc. with the Insignia White.
For some reason I was getting a reaction - just in spots - where the paint appeared to be reacting with the plastic creating these odd patterns and refusing to coat. :[
I mixed the paint, thinner and polyurethane per manufacturer's instructions, so I'm at a loss. Any ideas what happened here??
For some reason I was getting a reaction - just in spots - where the paint appeared to be reacting with the plastic creating these odd patterns and refusing to coat. :[
I mixed the paint, thinner and polyurethane per manufacturer's instructions, so I'm at a loss. Any ideas what happened here??
Another example.
Rather dramatic example.
Back to the VF-1S while I await delivery of my paint-on clearcoats for the Harryhausen's Rhedosaur.
Prepping/assembling some parts for a second coat of Insignia White... Here we go again with seams... Right in the middle of the top of the engine intake and while they offset the bottom of that, there are gaps and when the seam does return to center it isn't level. Ugh. I love the VF-1s and the Strike version in particular, but not. This. Kit.
Prepping/assembling some parts for a second coat of Insignia White... Here we go again with seams... Right in the middle of the top of the engine intake and while they offset the bottom of that, there are gaps and when the seam does return to center it isn't level. Ugh. I love the VF-1s and the Strike version in particular, but not. This. Kit.
Second coat applied. Debating whether to spray clearcoat on some of these once the paint cures to avoid chance of chipping. Test fitting the "feet" into the legs resulted in the ankle insert scratching and removing some of the metallic paint from the feet/engine nozzles.
Second attempt to assemble this photo-etch detail piece. Yes, that IS a shirt pin and my X-Acto knife!
I bought a tweezer set that includes angled versions that helped me place these 2 fins after I used the shirt pin to apply a fine line of CA glue to the back side of the mounting grill. There are times I wonder if this particular detail is worth the amount of time I have to spend holding my breath to place them. And thank goodness (once again) for my lit, gooseneck magnifying glass! LOL
I bought a tweezer set that includes angled versions that helped me place these 2 fins after I used the shirt pin to apply a fine line of CA glue to the back side of the mounting grill. There are times I wonder if this particular detail is worth the amount of time I have to spend holding my breath to place them. And thank goodness (once again) for my lit, gooseneck magnifying glass! LOL
Seams...
Photo-etch vs kit-supplied parts for comparison.
Same photo-etched parts in place... And more assembly seams.
Fun with masking tape
Did okay, but I believe I need to get model/detailing tape LOL
More photo etch detail parts. Got to be careful when bending these into position.
Was finally happy with the eyeplate color!.. Then realized it will NEVER BE SEEN, because in fighter mode only the top of the head and the head guns are seen. DOH!
Finally have the feet and legs assembled. Have to be careful of that panel lying at the feet. It's not symetrical, so matching those parts to the correct leg is important.
I must say I'm not looking forward to trying to alter gear bay parts to be closed (ironically the box art shows the fighter in flight yet the kit only supplies parts for having it resting on the landing gear). But, for better or worse that's the way it's going to go! LOL
I must say I'm not looking forward to trying to alter gear bay parts to be closed (ironically the box art shows the fighter in flight yet the kit only supplies parts for having it resting on the landing gear). But, for better or worse that's the way it's going to go! LOL
Another realization: There are decals, some of which are quite tiny, that need to be applied BEFORE assembling some parts. The backpack and FAST pack boosters, and the folded vertical stabilizers for example. LOL Otherwise it will be near impossible to do afterward. And oh, the fun of the commander stripes! It broke as I was sliding it to the edge of the paper!! Happened to the Jolly Roger decals as well (next photo). I've fixed them as well as I can. Beginning to wonder if I should've just sprayed the commander yellow & black. Ah, well.
With SO many of these (check out the diagrams on the last 3 pages of the instruction booklet!), I've decided to apply them in batches. A few on this section, then set aside to dry. Some more for another section. This way I avoid accidentally messing with any that are already applied.
Stabilizers turned out pretty well considering they'll be folder over one another. LOL However, I am scratching my head as to why the Mr. Mark Softener didn't get the crossbones to sink into the panel lines.
LOL This instruction manually really does need an overhaul in my opinion. I've tried so hard (as a hobbyist who builds these to relax/meditate) to be aware of this kit's oddities... But, there really should be better instruction to avoid unnecessary work. Applying decals (especially those that like to break) that are just going to be covered up. 😛
Okay, so I've arrived at the phase that I've really dreaded (I know, I know - I've complained the whole way and I am disappointed by that): Closing the landing gear bays using the parts that were meant to have them open... Even though the box art displays Skull One _after_ launch, there are no part options to have the gear up?! *Le sigh*
I've taken a piece of sprue that, pared down (i.e. carved and sanded) will provide a central beam upon which the long nose gear doors will rest. The forward door needed a divot carved into my support beam into which the light recess would fit.
Modifying the existing tabs to still help align and lock down the door positions.
Kept a bit of a gate nub as another alignment aid. Carved a notch in its counterpart to accept it.
The doors are also longer than they should be? Of course they are. LOL
Well...
Not wonderful, but acceptable. Gotta keep moving forward. 😉
Time to modify the leg gear doors...
Modifying door 1. Starting at the rearmost door in hopes of best alignment.
Modify 2
I'm saving some snipped off bits, because I may be able to reuse them. That little ledge on the left, under the door for example. That was a nipped piece from these doors. 🙂
The forward door needed to have a squared notch carved into its back support structure to fit atop the 2 ridges in the foreground... I thought I'd photographed it, but alas I missed that one - apologies!
The forward door needed to have a squared notch carved into its back support structure to fit atop the 2 ridges in the foreground... I thought I'd photographed it, but alas I missed that one - apologies!
Not surprisingly, the doors didn't exactly align on the legs either. Those bother me a bit, but not as much as the little gaps along the inside leg LOL
Both leg's gear doors sealed shut. I'll have to decide what to do about the gaps.
My first attempt at using "sprue goo" (snippings of kit sprue melted by adding drops of liquid cement) to help close the landing gear door gaps.
You can tell I'm fumbling my way with the 'goo', can't you? LOL This is definitely recommended to do BEFORE painting, since the goo stripped even top-coated paint! I'd use this method again on, say, fuselage gaps. May not have been the best option for this application, however. Live & learn!
Hmm... The tab is way wider than the slot designed.
How I'm keeping track (and know when I've completed a section) of applied decals. Fill in the dots or cross out those I have no intention of doing (since the assembled model will make it highly unlikely/impossible to see them).
How it's going: All of the body top decals, that will be visible, are applied (yes, even the infinitesimal ones).
Now deep breath for applying the long stripes for the inner legs and fuselage...
Now deep breath for applying the long stripes for the inner legs and fuselage...
Tracking decals applied.
And determining IF I should even bother with some! LOL
LOL My ingenuity, of modifying the forward hatch to be closed yet secured for the leg/engine landing gear, "came back to bite me."
Had to carefully shave it down at the rear to the leg/armor sections to fully attach to the knee portion.
Had to carefully shave it down at the rear to the leg/armor sections to fully attach to the knee portion.
Sections assembly begins. May have to file off paint from the FAST pack's micro missile pod and dual beam cannon attachment pins. I could only get them on half way before the resistance became worrisome. :\
Beginning to paint the pilot, Focker, and the dashboard (I'm painting the simple buttons, but will cut up the decal for the main viewscreen and keypad sections - fingers crossed).
Beginning to paint the pilot, Focker, and the dashboard (I'm painting the simple buttons, but will cut up the decal for the main viewscreen and keypad sections - fingers crossed).
Dashboard installed
I struggled more than I expected with Roy... Not only getting his arms positioned correctly, but also with the paintjob. LOL
Since he's going to be permanently under the canopy, I'm going to call him good enough at this point.
Had to ease the canopy on. The hinge pins resisted, so I rested the forward section to the nose and alternated pressing gently but firmly down on each hinge pin.
Commenti
15 16 January, 02:58
Tom HarrisWAY more than I expected, Jennifer! LOL
It's no joke - if you enjoy trying to interpret instruction drawings, matching up part seams and/or sanding, this is the kit for you.
20 January, 03:46
Jennifer FranklinSounds daunting, Tom; I'm just trying to complete my first model; that is way too ambitious for me, but I bet you will do a fantastic job.
20 January, 04:07
Roland DamasioHi, Nice to see that you didn't give up! I'm big a fan of Macross as well! Keep on going!
10 March, 18:57
Tom HarrisThanks, Roland! 🙂
I just put on some Minmei/Mari Iijima songs (& Haneda's Macross BGM) and soldier on. LOL
Besides, I promised Kawamori-san completion photos, so there's no chance of abandoning it... Just the occasional alternate kit "break." 😉
12 March, 14:11
CaptGPFSlide 18 orange peeling could be due to one of three things - airbrushing too far away in a hot environment (the paint dries in mid-flight); paint not thinned sufficiently, or contaminants like mold release on the surface. You can help leveling the paint by misting the freshly painted area with the thinner to help it level out a bit better. If this is only occurring with the insignia white, your mission models paint can also be bad. I stopped using MMPs a while back due to their inconsistent pigment sizes across the colors, as well as the fragility of the paint (easily scratched) - didn't have that issue with Tamiya or AKRC paints, but it could also be due to my skill level.
I love the Macross jets - the VF-1S is a classic, and having built the 1/72 version, I agree that the engineering of the kit is really old-school with terribly placed seam lines necessitating a ton of sanding, swearing and re-scribing. Given the age of these kits, you're also in for some fun re-scribing of the fainter panel lines. Overall, this kit should build up to be a real beauty - especially with the Weapons sets and PE set you are adding - I can't wait to see how this turns out!
12 March, 16:53
Tom HarrisHi CaptGPF! Thank you for the insight on the funky airbrush results. I'd watched a few videos of Mission Model Paint tips, so was very aware of the distancing issue (I got closer during the same session but it wasn't helping). Given the same paint didn't do this on other parts I'm leaning toward your "contaminated surface" reason. I didn't wash these parts first (I've heard from people who swear by washing, others who say, with modern sprue-making technology, you don't need to do that anymore). But, encountering this headache, methinks I'll go back to washing.
I've also heard very mixed reviews of the Mission paints. I decided to try them because I saw them on Adam Savage's Tested channel on Youtube and I liked that it was a US company. But, I have to say I've mixed feelings after using them on this and the MADOX kit. I used to go with Tamiya (although I used Vallejo for the first time with my Mandalorian and I feel that is one of my best paint jobs ever!).
Ahh, 'tis true, misery doth love company! Have to say, I'm glad I'm not the only one who has suffered through Hasegawa hells of sanding/filling. 😉
I love/loathe that my wife got me another Hasegawa I wanted... the newly released Miria639's Queadluun Rau battle suit from the Macross movie - it's all _curves_ LOL
16 March, 13:25
CaptGPFWe're kinda stuck with Hasegawa for the Macross stuff, but, it could be worse, we could be fighting AMT/Revell/ERTL quality kits…
The good news for you is that their newer releases like the SV-51 come together like a dream - no excessive need for sanding in obvious or awkward places. 😀
18 March, 15:40
Album info
I was excited when I found this kit during a vacation. I was even more excited to get Shoji Kawamori (Valkyrie designer) & HidetakaTenjin (artist who painted the box art) to sign the box lid!!.. Then I was able to get the weapons set and the photo-etch parts for what it would have cost for just one or the other on ebay!
Unfortunately, after that the joy of actually assembling this really fell off.
This kit has been more of a headache than a joy to be sure. I say this, sadly, because I'm really a fan of the VF-1 Valkyrie's and Fokker's in particular. But, wow, Hasegawa. I have to say, after not building for years, then trying several Bandai kits, this kit gives me flashbacks to when I was about 10 years old and just starting to try to build kits (partly because my dad was good at it back in the 1970s and partly because I finally found some planes and the Enterprise from Star Trek that I wanted to put together). The plane kits always drove me crazy with misaligned fuselage halves and unclear instructions... This is what I'm finding here now, too. And why, why is this kit molded to bifurcate parts down the middle when a little more engineering could have hidden the joins in several cases (like the FAST pack booster housings??
If you love/enjoy filling gaps and sanding - this kit is for you.
I don't mind a bit of it, but this has been on a whole new level. I mean I've sanded A LOT. And just when I think I've got an even seam (at times this has mean obliterating some panel lines as well), I hit it with some primer and there the seam shows plain as day. After about 3 rounds of this on quite a few, I've opted to move and and accept this kit is not going to be the ultimate, perfect DYRL VF-1S I'd hoped it would...
