[Revell] BMW 507 - WIP
Commenti
82 20 April, 18:29
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oh wow....that looks not good with the fitting of the chrome parts.
i've build this BMW twice and had not that issues. perhaps, the mold is old :-D because i had the first issue i worked with.
good luck! At the end. it is a very nice model 😉
22 April, 08:09
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As always I think we all appreciate your step by step build pics and the problems in the kit
You find
Fantastic work on the model but also on the instructions on how you overcome
The challenges in the kits
Sure a cool car but looks to be a challenge to build
Fantastic work
25 April, 09:20
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Great job so far. Love the work on the hood (bonnet) decoration. Looks great.
25 April, 11:33
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Here, here to all th eprevious comments 🙂 I'm learning lots - especially that one should not be daunted by poor quality parts!!
26 April, 14:27
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This is some tideous work. These older kits are quite the pain in the butt sometimes but you are doing an astounding job with these improvements 👍. Following with great interest!
30 April, 07:23
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Oh. Bending and gluing on a thin strip of styrene is tricky, next to impossible if the turn/bend is too hard, as the glue will in my experience, always snap the rod.
What might work, is to glue on one end of the rod, then make the bend, and then glue on, only parts of the styrene rod, and making sure you don't use too much liquid glue, or the thin styrene rod snaps.
2 May, 06:24
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That's right. I broke it once too. hahaha
I thought it was because my pla-plate was so old (I bought it over 15 years ago) that it was worn out.
2 May, 06:39
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It just occurred to me that cyanoacrylate glue is the key glue to use in such cases. Only now today did I think of that. I suspect the superglue won't react with the styrene, and so it won't snap I think.
Sometimes fiddling too much with thin bits of some styrene rod, if you started to bend it, makes the rod snap, same with thin plastic parts, and so I try to be gentle and not overly twist and rold the parts in my fingers.
2 May, 06:48
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I'm experiencing huge enjoyment seeing the tiny pieces of perfection that you are hand-crafting 🙂
3 May, 13:07
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Wow (again). how did you glue the "metal"-parts like the missoros? that is outstanding detailwork!!! Im just on side 6 from your well documented build. amazing!
btw. the handle on the dashborad left is for the parkingbrake.
the two "paddles" on the steeringwheel are the hornbuttons 😉
6 May, 08:09
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Fantastic. I'm interested how the speedo and tach are going to be mounted in those beautiful trim rings.
8 May, 15:10
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Great detail work on each and every little part 👍
What kind of glue do you use for the aluminum parts?
17 May, 20:45
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Thanks guys.
@bughunter - I used AXIA031, Loctite Easy Brush. Since cianoacrilate super glue is weak to impact, sometimes additional woodworking glue is applied. 🙂
18 May, 05:22
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Fantastic work as always
An inspiration to all
I ha e a few mediocre kits in my stash of a few cars I think are cool
Thanks for sharing how we can make them butiful builds
21 May, 12:13
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Lots of fun detailing. 🙂
Wonder where he got his tiny nylon mesh from. I could use some of that for a future 1:24 70's Dodge Challenger kit, a kit which.. when ordered off Amazon is shipped.. in December in 5-6 months. One can buy photo etch, but there doesn't seem to be any photo etch for venting mesh parts for the the hood on the car,, which is surprising. A nylon mesh might work nicely.
28 May, 07:56
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@Treehugger - Japanese kits like Tamiya, Hasegawa racing car often come with nylon netting, which I save as much as possible and use for things like this.
28 May, 08:16
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The handle on the #128 picture is the handbrake, I think.
So, at the end of the build you will turn the key, and drive into the sunset?
28 May, 19:19
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I didn't see him scratch build a tiny key ring with keys... That may still be on his todo list...
28 May, 20:03
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Awesome outcome! With all the detailling it's sad, that if you don't know about it, it's hardly to see. It looks fantastic.
3 June, 04:22
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Awesome indeed! Even more, taking into account how quick the build process was and the quality of the kit itself... Chapeau bas!
3 June, 04:43
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superb job. it looks fresh out of the shop. it could be in the BMW catalogue 😉 thanks for all the extra info
3 June, 08:20
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What a beautiful build, it was a pleasure to follow along, so many fantastic details👍 Amazing!
3 June, 12:22
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Thanks for your answer! I have it in my stash (also the flat one) but have not tried to polish it.
12 June, 14:05
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@bughunter - Gloss clear paints with UV cut effect sometimes do not cure well.
Unless you are in an environment where you will be exposed to sunlight for a long time, I recommend normal clear.
And the compound I use is as follows:
Rough: GSI Mr. Compound #600 (red label)
Medium: Tamiya Fine (blue lid)
Finish: Tamiya Finish (white lid)
Extra Finish: GSI ceramic compound
After each step of polishing, it is good to wash it thoroughly with water before proceeding to the next step polishing.
This is because any coarse compound particles left behind will get mixed up when polishing with the next finer compound, making it less effective.
I'm using a translator and I don't know if my English explanation is correct. 😉
12 June, 15:39
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FHD images - motorart.tistory.com/758