Quick Volksjäger build
Commenti
22 July 2014, 00:35
Peter Jenssen
Quick build..
Should be done in a couple of nights.. 🙂
(hope I didn't jinx it now... :-o )
Quick build..
Should be done in a couple of nights.. 🙂
(hope I didn't jinx it now... :-o )
22 July 2014, 02:18
Peter Jenssen
Thanks Holger.
I did not do a good job estimating the amount of nose weight needed though.. 🙁
I just put the biggest nut in that would fit and hoped for the best.. 🙂
Turns out the tail section is double the weight this nose weight can cope with..
Creative thinking will be required...
Thanks Holger.
I did not do a good job estimating the amount of nose weight needed though.. 🙁
I just put the biggest nut in that would fit and hoped for the best.. 🙂
Turns out the tail section is double the weight this nose weight can cope with..
Creative thinking will be required...
23 July 2014, 02:21
Holger Kranich
Ouch, a tailsitter... What about casting the frontwheel from lead?
Ouch, a tailsitter... What about casting the frontwheel from lead?
23 July 2014, 06:38
Peter Jenssen
Good idea, except I don't have any casting facilities..
I have measured the amount of lead required though, and it looks too much for a nose wheel.
I'm drilling some holes in the nose to feed in some soldering wire, there's also plenty of room behind the cockpit.
This location is half as far away from the mail wheels as the nose, therefore would require double weight compared to if put in the nose.
I'm also thinning the tailplane. It was a bit too thick anyway.. 🙂
The tail part is quite thick goods plastic as well. Some drilling out here might have an effect too.
Good idea, except I don't have any casting facilities..
I have measured the amount of lead required though, and it looks too much for a nose wheel.
I'm drilling some holes in the nose to feed in some soldering wire, there's also plenty of room behind the cockpit.
This location is half as far away from the mail wheels as the nose, therefore would require double weight compared to if put in the nose.
I'm also thinning the tailplane. It was a bit too thick anyway.. 🙂
The tail part is quite thick goods plastic as well. Some drilling out here might have an effect too.
24 July 2014, 01:54
Choppa Nutta
too late to sand the inside of the rear fuselage ?
anything off the tail helps enormously as you know 🙂
Also some lead in the front half of the engine too, filing the lead first to get lead filings means you can pour it into the nose etc. mix with glue or drop super glue in afterwards, anyhow lead is much denser than soldering wire 🙂
One could also hide a magnet in the front wheel and seat the plane on a steel plate painted like a runway 😄
Another idea is to use a lead figure for the pilot
too late to sand the inside of the rear fuselage ?
anything off the tail helps enormously as you know 🙂
Also some lead in the front half of the engine too, filing the lead first to get lead filings means you can pour it into the nose etc. mix with glue or drop super glue in afterwards, anyhow lead is much denser than soldering wire 🙂
One could also hide a magnet in the front wheel and seat the plane on a steel plate painted like a runway 😄
Another idea is to use a lead figure for the pilot
24 July 2014, 02:47
Peter Jenssen
About 30 cm of soldering lead did the trick.
Managed to chip up and feed about a third of it up the front wheel well, secured with thinned white glue.
The rest went behind the cockpit, fed through the hinge hole for the canopy.. 🙂
Lesson learnt: never estimate needed weight. Always check..
About 30 cm of soldering lead did the trick.
Managed to chip up and feed about a third of it up the front wheel well, secured with thinned white glue.
The rest went behind the cockpit, fed through the hinge hole for the canopy.. 🙂
Lesson learnt: never estimate needed weight. Always check..
25 July 2014, 02:36
Peter Jenssen
Yes, panel lines are deep as well as uneven....putty will be needed.To scale some of them would be around 5 centimetres wide and just as deep.
Funny, considering how detailed some parts are.
It's almost like they are out of scale on purpose.
Yes, panel lines are deep as well as uneven....putty will be needed.To scale some of them would be around 5 centimetres wide and just as deep.
Funny, considering how detailed some parts are.
It's almost like they are out of scale on purpose.
26 July 2014, 04:17
Phil Marchese
Peter, consider stretching some of the kit's own sprue to lay in or wrap around the seems created by the panel lines. this has the advantage of bonding and sanding at the same rate as the surrounding plastic. then minute surfacing can be done with filler.
Peter, consider stretching some of the kit's own sprue to lay in or wrap around the seems created by the panel lines. this has the advantage of bonding and sanding at the same rate as the surrounding plastic. then minute surfacing can be done with filler.
26 July 2014, 10:59
Peter Jenssen
Had problems stretching the sprue evenly.
Used putty instead.
Well, the paint is on, -I didn't go for the really bright green you see some museums use for their 162's.
After drying, clear coat and decals, then wheels, canopy, shelf..
(next kit, Me163 is in the background)
Had problems stretching the sprue evenly.
Used putty instead.
Well, the paint is on, -I didn't go for the really bright green you see some museums use for their 162's.
After drying, clear coat and decals, then wheels, canopy, shelf..
(next kit, Me163 is in the background)
1 August 2014, 11:14
Peter Jenssen
Pretty much done.
1/72 is really quite small for these little fighters..
Pretty much done.
1/72 is really quite small for these little fighters..
6 August 2014, 06:41
Peter Jenssen
Thanks Phil!
Added another picture -compare to a 1/12 Ford Cosworth engine.. 🙂
Thanks Phil!
Added another picture -compare to a 1/12 Ford Cosworth engine.. 🙂
6 August 2014, 23:53
Album info
Decided my shelf of German WWII jets looks a bit thin with just an ME262 and a Horten IX Go229.
(also, this one takes much less space built than in the box, -you could literally fit four sets of the sprues in the box. Lots of air shipped in this one.. 🙂 )