It's a bright new FUTURE

John Thomas
Hey guys just a short post. I just found the NEW bottle of Pledge Floor Gloss/Future. I found it at Walmart for $6.00 Dollars US for a pint. I will try it out soon on my X-Plane Projects. In photo no.3 I show the three bottles of future from the pass. The new bottle date to 2017, the middle bottle to 2014 and the third bottle to 2011. I think I have an older bottle of Future some were and if I find it I will post an photo of it.

Burkhard D
I still use a bottle of Future obtained in 1998 and have a second one in reserve. I wonder what the "best use before" date is!? 🙂

John Thomas
Burkhard, that is a very good question. I just added two more bottles to my Future collection which dates back to 2010 as my oldest bottle. I still think I have an older bottle I will keep looking. If you look photo no. 5 you can see that the bottle has a yellow tint that bottle is eight years old. BTW the date I am using is the date on the bottle label, the contents could be older. The only real change you can see for each bottle is the labels. My bottles have been kept in a cool dark basement, no sun light or high or low temps.

Rex
John, would you do me a favor, please. (and anyone that is looking for Future because they don't have any)
Would you look at each of your bottles and tell us what UPC numbers each bottle has? I ask because the UPC is about the only thing that stayed constant through the years that the names changed and the formula stayed constant. There are bottles out there with different UPC numbers, and those are different formulas, one is for wood floors, and the ones like the Blue Boots bottle are for vinyl/linoleum floors. (we don't want the Wood floors version for our models)

Also, concerning yellowing,,,,,,,,,,a lot of the time, it is the plastic bottle that is yellowing over time, not the actual liquid. Easy to check, pour some in a glass bottle or beaker and look through it.

There have also been "cleaner/polish" versions, which again, are NOT what is wanted for models. It was designed to soften old coatings and mix the new with them as it laid down. Imagine an Aquous Acrylic painter having the paint softened and then the clear swirled into it, instead of just a clear overcoat over the paint.

Michael Phillips
I agree with Rex, I would like to see the UPC. They keep changing the bottle AND name of this stuff, so it is hard to keep up with what is what nowadays. The last one I bought had the blue boots as well, and I might need to get some more rather soon.

Cortex
Good stuff, I dip clear parts in, also airbrush to seal paint or lay decals on .. never had problems with.

John Thomas
Rex,Michael and Cortex Thanks. Rex and Michael I will post the UPC numbers for you

John Thomas
Rex, the new bottle Pledge floor gloss dated 2017 UPC=46500 00182, Pledge Floor Care 2X shine dated 2014 UPC=46500 00182, Pledge Floor Care tile & vinyl floor dates 2011, UPC=46500 00182, Pledge Floor Care multi-surface date 2012 UPC=46500 00182 and Pledge Floor Care wood floor date 2010 UPC=46500 71857. Out of the five bottles that I have they all have the same UPC number 46500 00182. But the Pledge Floor Care wood floor has a different UPC number 46500 71857. The wood floor bottle does have the Future logo on the bottle label as does the tile and vinyl floor bottle. Rex thanks for the tips.

Michael Phillips
Thanks John, that is great info! Now I know the new "Future" bottle looks like the ones in your picture, and therefore which one to purchase.

John Thomas
Michael OK

Patrick Hagelstein
This is a great thread! I bought my new bottle of Future (the 'revive it') only Friday after painstakingly looking through the whole Walmart isle the check if I just missed my known bottles and then just residing with this one. Glad you guys found out I accidentally picked the right one! 👍

John Thomas
Patrick, I am glad that I helped in a small way.

Rex
71857

Don't use this UPC on your plastic models. The other ones are the same as the old Future. 71857 does not work the same way, though.

You can test that out for yourself, though. Build a model that doesn't matter to you much, or build one with just the large basic parts cemented together. After painting, spray 71857 on it, decal it, and cover with 71857. Then try to pick it up bare handed after 1 month, 3 months, 6 months and 1 year. Even after I year, you will still be able to leave fresh fingerprints in the clear coat, if you hold the model for 1 minute or more.

00182 bottles will work just like Future from the past,,,,,you could cover a plastic sheet with it, and hit it with a hammer without scratching it.

John Thomas
Rex, thanks so much for the info.

Spanjaard
i am glad that all my stash is 46500 00182 (floor care finish) 🙂

Spanjaard
timeline for this product needs update 😉
scalemates.com/colors/color.php?id=9796
we only have one in the database 🙂

John Thomas
Spanjaard, Thanks

Lee Fogel
Thank you for the info and proper UPC number to look for.

Ben M
Following so I don't lose this info

John Thomas
Lee and Ben, Thanks

Rex
Lee and others,,,,,,another tip is to look through the bottle, the UPC is on the back of the label. Some generations of Future had a different UPC on the front, and the correct one on the back.

Treehugger
I have a white bottle with blue cap, of 'Pledge Multi-Surface Wax'. 750ml.

The number below the bar code is: 5 000204 604177. I have still no idea if this bottle is usable for applying a gloss coat onto models. I've had it in store for a while without really using it. Bought it off eBay some time ago, as this branded product isn't common where I live.

John Thomas
Rex thanks again

John Thomas
Treehugger, I don't know if the Pledge in the white bottle is Future? I don't know if the UPC number would be different out side the US. I would test it first on an old model before using it. You may want to look at ebay again for the new bottle.

Lee Fogel
Thank you Rex I will follow your advice.😉

Ben M
Thank you so much for this thread. I have never used future before and bought a bottle the other day to try. Good to know I accidentally got the "right" kind!

Patrick Hagelstein
Lucky you Ben! 😉 You'll love the product by the way! 👍

Michael Phillips
I agree with Patrick. I use it for quite a few things:

1. Dip canopies for extra clarity and to remove fine scratches and other imperfections.

2. Clear Coat for paint sealing and decal application prep. I actually BRUSH it on the entire model as opposed to spraying it. I seem to get much better results that way and it is actually faster to do. The leveling properties of this stuff is amazing! I always seem to get "orange peel" when I spray the stuff.

3. Used as a decal setting agent. The high surface tension of future actually does a fantastic job of pulling decals into crevices, over contours, etc. However, I don't like to use it with larger decals as you do have to work quickly with this method as it will begin to set after a minute or so on the model. Also, this method is fantastic for helping to eliminate silvering and also blends decals into the paint very well once the flat coat is applied over it.

4. I use it as a base to my own home-made final flat coat. I mix 6 parts future to 1 part Tamiya X-21 Flat Base. This gives a very nice flat finish that can be adjusted to taste by altering the mixture ratio. I would not recommend going below 4:1 ratio though, as too much of the X-21 can lead to frosting.

So it is a very versatile and inexpensive tool for the modeller arsenal, hence the reason modellers go nuts over the stuff!

Patrick Hagelstein
Thanks for that ratio Michael!

John Thomas
Thanks guy's. I like the flat base idea, I will test it out.

Michael Phillips
Also, for my flat coat mixture, I create it in batches that I put in a cleaned out used 40mL Tamiya primer jar. Each time I put some in my airbrush before use I usually add about 25% Mr Color Levelling Thinner to the mix in the cup as well.

Ben M
I love the sharing of techniques on this site, thank you everyone who takes the time to help others.

John Thomas
Hey guy's, Michael and Ben Thanks again.

Gordon Sørensen
Like Michael, I use for my canopies too.
If you dip before you paint the frames, it is easier to remove any paint that gets under the masks.
Just use a wide brush and use it as a clear coat for decalling, and to help as a decal settling agent.
You have enough there to last ages, John!

Tom ...
Michael, do you have a mix ratio for semi gloss/satin?

Michael Phillips
Tom, I have not yet attempted to do a satin or semi-gloss finish, but I would start with a 15:1 ratio then adjust from there. Maybe try on a scrap painted piece first to see how that looks. I'm guessing the sweet spot for a nice satin finish is going to be in the 12-15:1 range.

John Thomas
Gordon , Thanks. As slow as I build I have enough Future to last many years. I also use Future as a clear coat on my wood model bases and as a clear coat on my dioramas as wet mud or for glossing water. Check out my album on how I do my model bases.

John Thomas
Tom, thanks

John Thomas
Hey Michael, at what PSI are you spraying your Future and Flat Coat Mix? I spray mine Future Gloss Coat at around 18 to 20 PSI with a .03 needle in my airbrush.

Michael Phillips
John, I also spray it around 20PSI with a .03 Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I spray this mixture at a bit higher PSI than I do with paints.

Bryn Crandell
@Michael Phillips thanks for the tips. I'll have to add to my cheap book. As for airbrushing I have a Aztek with a GP nozzle that I have dedicated to spraying Future. I think the psi I shoot at is 15-20.

John Thomas
OK, Bryn and Michael thanks so much.

Chris Greathouse
following

John Thomas
Chris, Thanks

Donald Dickson II
OK, this was an awesome post! I had no idea how to tell if it was still the same stuff. Now I know. I may run to the 24 hour Wally world and see if they have it...

Donald Dickson II
OK, and what do you all use to clean the airbrush after the Future?

Michael Phillips
Donald, I use plain old store bought Lacquer Thinner to clean it out... in fact, I use it to clean pretty much everything I spray. It will clean out anything almost instantly.

I clean out of the cup, and run it through the airbrush. I then put a little 90% Isopropyl Alcohol in the cup and spray a some through so there is no Lacquer Thinner left in the brush, and leave about a third of a cup full of alcohol in the cup, attach the lid, and put it away. I keep the alcohol in the cup to keep the needle from sticking when I use the brush again. I am not the best at keeping my airbrushes clean LOL.

Donald Dickson II
LOL I use Lacquer thinner for my Alclads and my Testors when I run out of their thinner. So I have plenty, though I am getting low. But I shall use that. And yep, Wally World here had it. So I gots some now. 😄

John Thomas
Donald I am glad you found some. Michael and Donald, I clean my airbrush out with both Windex and 90% IPA when lots of soapy water when lots of clean water and don't let the Future set in the brush it will gum it up.

Chris Greathouse
I use Iwata airbrush cleaner Immediately after finishing with Future... John is right, don't let it set, or there'll be a mess.

John Thomas
Chris Thanks

Spanjaard
Don't let it dry, or you may have no airbrush... Remember it is designed to harden so you can WALK on it 😄 😄
I clean it with pure alcohol (99%IPA)

Robbie
Folks, when dealing with this stuff - pure ammonia is your best friend... Even says so on the bottle. FYI I still have two bottles of the original "Future" labeled stuff.

Tom ...
Hmm, I've been using 70% IPA... seems fine but maybe I need to pay attention to it.

Spanjaard
i hate how amonia smells 😄 😄 and it can affect some materials, like some seals inside of some airbrushes😉

Robbie
So far no issues with blasting ammonia through the trusty airbrush but ya it makes doing old school enamels a walk in the park when it comes to smell. If you clean right after spaying the stuff then ya water will be ok. However you don't clean right away, seals or not, you got yourself one diehard clogged up airbrush 😛

Donald Dickson II
Hmmmm. There will be a Future only airbrush in this household...

Robbie
I have a old Paashe H1 and/or Testors ModelMaster (now Aztek) I reserve just for spraying Future or any clear coat for that matter. Paashe is really easy to clean. Only 3 parts.

John Thomas
Thanks guy's. That why I use Windex with Ammonia. for cleaning my airbrush. Ammonia can eat at the Brass parts of airbrushes and may be some of those cheap rubber O-rings seals, that why I flush the Windex with 90% IPA and when water and if needed I would tier down the airbrush and clean the needle and nozzle real good. BTW Windex smells better than pure Ammonia. Not sure how much Ammonia is in Windex it seam to work. Right now I do not have a airbrush just for Future but may need to. Christmas would be a good time to look for one. Needles to say all way wear a mask when spraying any cleaner thru an airbrush.

Spanjaard
mask is always a good idea when airbrushing... you can replace needles and nozzles, lungs are a bit more complicated 😄 😄

John Thomas
Spanjaard, Thanks I agree

Donald Dickson II
Those of you who airbrush it. Do you thin it and with what?

Spanjaard
Straight from the bottle for me

Alexander Jost
Cleaning: REVELL Airbrush Clean (also traded as Dowanol, substance/chemically: Methylethylketon

Thinning: SIMPLE GREEN cleaning liquid, thinned 1/10 with destilled water. Excellent for all water-based colours! (see simplegreen.com or extrade.de)

John Thomas
Alexander, Thanks. Donald I do not thin Future I also use it straight from the bottle.

Chris Greathouse
Straight from the bottle for me too

John Thomas
Thanks Chris

Michael Hickey
Not only do I use Lacquer Thinners to clean out Alclad II but I use it to thin down my Gunze & Tamiya paint. One thing you don't want to mix Lacquer Thinners with is paints like Vallejo, AK, Mig and Meng. Those water based paints really go glumpy when they come in contact with Lacquer Thinners.

Alexander Grivonev
Has anyone tried to lower the surface tension of FUTURE somehow? I use it as a base for decals and as an overcoat afterwards. It tends to form droplets on the surface if you apply too much at once, ESPECIALLY on decals. It spreads really poorly on them. Future is terrific stuff but it wasn't designed to be spray applied after all and a lower surface tension would make it a truly magic product...I've had a quick glance at the thread and thought Gunzes Leveling Thinner might be a solution, never worked with this stuff.

I apply it straight from the bottle btw and use IPA or Ethanol to clean the airbrush.

Michael Hickey
I use it the same way Alexander, but I find if I spray it in light enough coats it works fine. Don't know what dishwashing soap would do in the mix of it. I use dishwashing soap in my bowl of water when I'm decaling to break the water tension.

Alexander Grivonev
Yeah, I thought about dishwashing soap too, in essence we need some kind of a 'surfactant'. Question is how else will it affect the 'Future' itself? I think the only way to know is to try..

John Thomas
Thanks guy's. I hand brush small areas but also use light coats when airbrushing. One other use of Future that I tried is to mix Future into Acrylic Model Master paints. I did one test with about 10% to improve the paint and I liked the way it worked. I also made a mix with Poly Scale Acrylic Aluminum for an NMF on an P-40N which turned out nice. I used the Future to improve flow and add toughness to the mix for masking and it seam to have worked. I still need to do more tests mixing Future with Model Master Acrylic paints. I do know that Future does not like Tamiya paints in one test I did. I dont know about other water base paints.

Kit Kabinet
Great info in this thread! Unfortunately there no longer seems to be a Pledge Future equivalent available in Europe. I still have half a bottle of the old Pledge version (which I guard with several nasty pointy instruments) but if anyone knows the current equivalent in Europe, I'm very interested.
Also interested in breaking the surface tension, as I also noticed it tends to bead on decals. Soap may get frothy, so I'm careful with that. I'll have to check if glycerin or glaze medium will work. Warcolours has a surfactant in their range that claims to do the job, but I have also read that it doesn't act well with just every product.

Robbie
@Kit... I am not sure how it is on you side of the big pond but - Amazon or Ebay can be your friend - hint hint

Spanjaard
yes, the problem is the shipping costs.... I got some via Amazon, only issue was that the seller is only selling in UK, Germany and France. so i have to order via family in france.

Kit Kabinet
Indeed, shipping costs make it very expensive. I hope that the amount that I still have will last me long enough for Pledge to re-introduce this formula on the EU market. Although I fear there's probably some dumb law against one of the ingredients, otherwise they would probably have re-released it here already..

Robbie
Well folks, I did not factor in shipping 😭. Did not know it was that evil over there. (thanks great-grandpa for moving to this side of the pond).

Mark Parkinson
Could this be the latest European equivalent to Future?
sainsburys.co.uk/sho..ti-surface-wax-750ml
I can only seem to find it sold here or Amazon and ebay though

John Thomas
Thanks Guy's more great info. Hey guys do any of you car builder use Future on your cars bodies? I don't build to many cars but I have one I would like to build, I was thinking of dipping the whole car body in future.

Spanjaard
I would love je to hear how that goes John.

Martin Oostrom
Just beware of pooling. Dipping the windows of my toyota led to rippled windows. Hard to see, but it is there.

Chris Greathouse
Try dipping, then letting the liquid pool at the bottom while the piece is vertical, then just tap the bottom of the window on a piece of paper towel... The towel will soak up the excess and there should be little to no pooling.

Matthew A
Mark I bought some of the multi surface wax when it first came out in that bottle - It left may floor, table and boots streaky so didn't try it on a kit. I go past Johnson's in Frimley a lot and each time wonder if the formula has changed since.

John Thomas
Thanks guy's, I will let you know how it goes I may even make a project out of it and post some photos. The kit I have is the Monogram 1970 Plymouth Superbird with the rear wing. I did see the NASCAR version of this car race at Dayton in 1970 and it won. The kit plastic is a sky blue color witch would be hard to match so I will try to kept the plastic body color. I am thinking of dipping all the kit body parts separately even the glass and just paint the parts that need painting. This would be my first car project in over 30 years. I may do some plumbing and wiring.

Rui S
Very interesting. I still have to buy it from ebay because it dosen´t exist here.

John Thomas
Rui S, Sorry to hear that, it's very useful stuff

Rui S
Yeah John, i can just imagine that' 🙁 & I'm só very curious about it8)
Cheap and very useful his just my thing 😄

John Thomas
Rui S, I was very luck to have visited Portugal many years ago. spent two days in Lisbon back in the mid 1960's and in High School I was the Ambassador from Portugal in our School's UN.

Donald Dickson II
They have this at my Walmart. At least they did a month ago. If anyone wants it, let me know. I will be more than happy to get it and ship it. No profit, just cost. Though I am sure shipping across the pond would be expensive.

Christian Bruer
Great thread, thx for all the intersting Information. Now I know the Pledge I got from a modelling friend is the right stuff.

Rui S
John,, Very glad to know that' you liked the time you spent here even if it was só long ago. I was born 5 years after that' and we have evolved a lot since 🙂
@ Donald thanks for your attention. I will see if i can get it from europe first. But Nice to know that' you can help.

John Thomas
Thanks guy's, All the Pledge/ Future that I have found was at my local Walmart. I just used my bottle of Pledge/ Future the other day when I clear coated my F-18C project.

Spanjaard
I got mine for a decent price in Amazon, the only problem was that they only sell it in Germany, UK and France. They do not ship to other countries. Fortunately I could get it via family in France. If anybody want to know the seller details, let me know. It was the cheapest option to get full bottles across the pond
There is people reselling the stuff in smaller bottles on Ebay, but I never tried them. Specially since you can not be sure of what you get.....

Jos Jansen
I ordered through Amazon and they shipped it to the Netherlands...

John Thomas
Jos and Spanjaard, thanks for the info

Spanjaard
hi Jos, i guess it is a question of price...
this is the one i used amazon.fr/gp/product/B000ARPH4C 17.74EUR per bottle to France. it is possible to have it in German Amazon amazon.de/gp/product/B000ARPH4C for 19.52EUR and UK for 12.99GBP amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000ARPH4C funny enough.
German, French or UK do not ship to NL, but from Amazon Spain, they do 😛 amazon.es/gp/product/B000ARPH4C for 15.77EUR but with 3.95 to shipping to Spain or 6.03 to Netherlands. If anybody knows a cheaper one, please post it here, somebody can benefit from it 🙂

Spanjaard
my first bottle was shipped to NL... but it was much more expensive, via EvilBay....

John Thomas
Spanjaard, great info but I have a question being from the US, I though that the EU was one happy family so why would a EU Country not ship a product to another EU Country. Also could a person from the Netherlands or other EU Country just take the train to England or Germany and buy as much Pledge/ future as you would like for personal use. A very enterprising person could buy lots of Pledge/ Future and sell it at Model Shows, just an idea. I have to travel 40 miles to my model shop one way for my kits and supplies I do buy a little on Ebay.

Spanjaard
Usually EU countries and specially EU webshops do not make a problem to sell anywhere in EU. but Amazon does what they want.... besides, i think it is a question of the seller not wanting to make their life complicated... specially if they are based in US, so they ship to a few countries only, and they do not care about the others.

Gordon Sørensen
Wow! $6.25 US at Walmart. Shipping would probably be extremely expensive though...

John Thomas
Spanjaard, I see. I am lucky to be able to buy as much Pledge/Future as I like from my Walmart which is less than a mile from my house.

Jos Jansen


amazon.com/dp/B015RY.._apa_i_7OoRCbCQACZWY

I ordered via a seller in the States, last year for 50 bucks...now you can buy it for 20 bucks, two bottles...shipped to the Netherlands. Of course not as cheap as you can get it on your bike to the Walmart, but it is fantastic stuff and you really can use it for a very long time!

Martin Oostrom
Thanks Jos. Really a shame that shipping is €488,-

Burkhard D
A study in yellowing with samples from 1998, 2000, 2017 (left to right) 😄

[img1]

Ralf Schoenen
Just found on Amazon
Pledge11182 Revive It Bodenglanz, 69 ml, klar transparent amazon.de/dp/B000ARP.._api_i_HYPZCb475533W

Ralf Schoenen
If the above link does not work,just search „Pledge floor care

John Thomas
Thanks, guys. I am very glad that very one is enjoying my Future thread. May be we can post some of the different use for Future other than clear coats. Thanks Burkhard D for the Yellowing photo.

Greg Baker
Thanks again for starting this thread, John. My moving company decided (even after I checked with them) that my two brand new, unopened, bottles of Future should be left behind (without telling me). So I was in a bit of a panic, trying to decide if I needed to smuggle one back to Canada (where I bought it in the first place) in my suitcase. Luckily I was able to send my mom on a mission to WalMart and, thanks to this thread, I was able to confirm she got the "Revive it" bottle. Whew! One less stress after seeing all my models and kits boxed up and put into a shipping container (along with... practically all my other worldly possessions).

Of course, this now means I have two bottles of Future on the open market here in Korea. Anyone looking to make a purchase? 🙂 it's a limited time offer that runs out at the end of the month!

Patrick Hagelstein
Reading up on this, can I assume you're a Canadian national currently living in Korea and preparing to move back to Canada? In that case I can relate: I'm a Dutch national living in the US and fearing I have to leave behind my whole stash of paints once I have to move back to the Netherlands next year...

Patrick Hagelstein
Facepalm moment....... I just found your bio here.... 😉

Greg Baker
Yep. That's correct. The paints were an issue... I was able to get some of them to go by basically drying them out. I'm not sure if I can revive them for sure, but Tamiya acrylics seem to have a good success at being brought back to life, I think. It was worth a shot, anyway.

Patrick Hagelstein
That's actually a cool idea! I predominantly use Gunze and MRP lacquers, which can be thinned and even revived by Gunze's Self-leveling Thinner. I'll have a year to experiment with that. 👍

Greg Baker
if there's no liquid... it's a painted bottle. 🙂

Patrick Hagelstein
😄 😄 😄 👍 True!

Spanjaard
ha ha ha, I would have never thought of that! great idea!

wilky
How much do you want for the future bottles?

Greg Baker
For a mate of scale, $10 per bottle plus whatever shipping comes to. I just want to cover my costs.

wilky
PM sent

John Thomas
Hey Guys, I have been testing mixing Future with Model Master Acrylics to improve flow and smoother finish. Has any one done any testing with Future? I have got some nice results.

JD
I find that Pledge works especially well mixed with metallics, no need for a top coat. But to me it stinks to high heaven. Don't breathe the stuff just because it has a "pleasant" odor. I can't spray it indoors until I upgrade my spray booth. 🙂

John Thomas
JD,Thanks. so far Tamiya paints dont like Future. I have mixed Future with Poly Scale Acrylic Metallics and it worked well. The smell is a problem and I do use a spray booth. I am testing more Acrylics results up soon.

Christian Bruer
Hey there, I got a feedback from a modelling friend, that the 2017 Pledge review it UPC #46500 00182 comes out milky when used. Can anyone of you confirm that experience!? I did not have any problem so far. TIA, Cheers Christian

John Thomas
Hey Christian, I heard some were that "Pledge" in the UK was made milky and smell added so kids would not drink it. Don't know if it is true or not. I have done some more testing . Both Vallejo Model Color and Model Air mixs well with Future also Model Master Acrylics. I don't have any Gunze or Lifecolor or any AK paint to test so I don't know. If Tamiya does not work well I would think any Acrylic paint similar to Tamiya would also not mix well. I am still trying to work out the best percentage of Future to add so far 10% works well.

Matthew A
I bought the wrong stuff we av here

Christian Bruer
Thank you John. My modelling friend had the problem sealing canopies. Some samples came out milky.

John Thomas
Hey Christian, some kinds of glues can also fog canopies and clears parts to make them look milky mainly super glue. You can dip clear parts in future to help stop the fogging.

Christian Bruer
Sorry John I should had better desribed what I meant with my last post about milky canopies. My modeling friend made the experience, that canopies turned out milky when dipping them into Pledge review it. The same experience with Future was a clean and clear canopy. He mentioned, that the formula of Pledge was different to the original Future and that it could be a reason that it does not propper work cleaning and sealing canopies with a layer of Pledge / Future. Does anybody eles made this experience and can confirm?

Tom ...
I wonder if the "tolerances" for Future's formula are pretty loose. I mean it's meant for polishing floors so I'm thinking there's a fair bit of leeway, and people seem to have varying experiences with it, though most are very positive.

For myself I've noticed that clear coating over Tamiya acrylics for my car bodies develops a mosaic of fine cracks over time so I've now switched to Alclad's Klear Gloss, which I find easier to apply over large areas than Future.

Spanjaard
i have used future over tamiya acrylics without any problem.

Clifford Keesler
I use it over most paints without problems, even laquers. It works great on my canopies.

James C
I've used it for a while now ONLY over the top of acrylics... Tamiya, Italeri, AK, MiG etc and also have not had any issues with it, but the stuff I use is as pictured in the link below... and NOT the "Revive it".
The only time I encountered problems with the stuff was when I tried to airbrush it on a tank that I had painted with acrylics, but weathered with oils and enamels etc. It immediately started to bead up like rain water will bead up on a freshly waxed car etc. So I've not tried it again on armour builds.
But, sticking with a freshly painted (with acrylics) aircraft, it works great to seal the paint in readiness for a panel line wash (enamel) I also note that it's not nearly as "bullet proof" as has been mentioned in the past. Possibly due to a formula change?

[img1]

John Thomas
Tom,Spanjaard, Clifford and James Thanks. I have also had no problems with Future over Tamiya or most other Acrylics. I am testing mixing Future into acrylics to improve the finish and adhesion for better masking mainly for Metallics. I don't use enamels or lacquers but all paints need to be fully cured before over coating with any clear coat.

Spanjaard
you can also try using it differently, i do extremely thin layers, so it cures really fast. James, what about you?

Spanjaard
i have same bottle than James, by the way.

Michael Phillips
The only issues I have ever encountered with Future is with Gunze Aqueous Insignia White and to a lesser extent Gunze Aqueous Light Gull Grey. I have found that the paints crack when I use Future as a gloss coat over these (and only these colors so far). I know it has to do with cure time differences but since I have had this happened more than once I now no longer use future over those colors. Never had it happen with any other brand or any other Gunze Aqueous color.

John Thomas
Michael, Thanks. Future is not all ways the best chose for a clear coat. I have mainly be using Future for decals and weathering but be using Liquitex clear acrylic Gloss. Stain and Flat for my final clear coats.

Christian Bruer
So far I only use a rest of original Future and the Floor Care (the blue / white label posted by James). I have ordered the Reviev it and will test it.
By the way I used it on Vallejo acrylics without any problems so far. Normally I add an oils wash before I start adding the gloss coat also without any problems.

James C
@ Spanjaard - Yes, multiple thin layers is the best way to apply it so that it dries/hardens more quickly and to avoid any runs. Then once finished, I let it sit for a couple days (at least 3) to cure properly. This will minimize the risk of leaving finger prints behind while handling afterwards.

For what it's worth, I also use Tamiya (Acrylic) X-22 clear gloss mixed 50/50 with Tamiya lacquer (on my armour builds) to seal decals and paint, then immediately apply a light coat of straight lacquer only over the top. This process always ensures a dead smooth finish and also tends to speed up the drying process.

John Thomas
Thanks guys

Tom ...
I came across a comment on another site regarding the cracking I experienced with Future: "One more point is to make sure the underlying paint is fully dry; at least 48 hours. I've had cracking issues when I've applied too early."

I'm pretty sure I didn't wait that long so I'll need to pay attention to that.

Bill Newcomer
Just found this thread and have learned a few things here. I have been using the same bottle of Future for years (dated 2000). I have never air brushed it. I have only applied it with a 3/8" wide brush to car and truck models painted with enamels or lacquers. Even if I leave bubbles, it self levels nicely. I usually apply it once the decals, BMF and chrome bits are on the body. I usually do so before the windows are installed. It does a great job of keeping the decals and BMF from being disturbed from handling. It also adds gloss to rattle can paints that didn't gloss well enough. I used to be wasteful by pouring a bit in a dixie cup, brushing it on then throwing the remaining away. I now keep a small amount in an old Testors bottle to always have it at the ready. An empty enamel thinner bottle it what I use. The paint brush cleans up pretty well with hot running water if you clean it immediately after painting. On models where I got dust or painted too slowly and screwed up the layer of Future, I use cotton swaps in household ammonia to remove it and try again. The enamels and lacquers underneath are not affected by the ammonia. I have yet to paint any acrylics. I just ordered an air compressor that comes with (3) airbrushes for $89 US. I may likely try airbrushing future once I get the hang of it.

John Thomas
Bill Thanks And good luck. Remember to clear out our airbrush after future use dont let future set in the airbrush it will gum it up. I use Windex to clean out the future when some IPA and lot of water.

Clifford Keesler
That is what I use to clean my air brush with after spraying future also, IPA, and then Auto windshield washer fluid. For acrylic paints, I use the windshield washer fluid as my standard air brush cleaner. A gallon jug last me forever.

John Thomas
Clifford, Thanks

Spanjaard
in my local supermarket i have found this
[img1]
anybody has used it? it looks a bit milky and does not small the same as the one we know works

Cuajete
Interesting...

John Thomas
Spanjaard. I heard some were that Pledge in the UK was milky for some reason, I would test it first before using it on a good model, it may be fine.

Spanjaard
i tried to dip something on it, to see how it looks... results totally inconclusive... i will certainly use it in a test model before even thinking on using it in a good one.... i doubt is the good stuff

John Thomas
Hey Spanjaard, look forward to your results.

Greg Baker
I just got a new bottle of the Revive It... which looks identical to the pic. I'm still drowning in boxes and packing paper, but I'm eager to give SOMETHING a try, so giving a canopy a dip in Future sounds like something I can handle. Will report back any findings.

John Thomas
OK, Greg thanks

Patrick Hagelstein
Welcome home Greg! How did the shipping (and reviving) of your dried lacquer paints turn out?

Greg Baker
Thanks Patrick. I'm back home in Canada now, but my shipment is still on its way, so no word on what paints survived. There's been a lot more work than I thought, getting the house back in shape after 7 years of renters, but I'm one bathroom project away from finishing the most dire of repairs. I'm also building a 1:1 scale diorama of a modelling man-cave in the basement. I'm about 80% done framing in the walls...😉

Spanjaard
you need to post that Greg😉

Rui S
I agree with Spanjaard😎

Christoph Kunz
So sad, a 1:1 scale dio of a man-cave and no pics😉

John Thomas
Yes I agree, Greg you need to post some photos of your Man Cave

Greg Baker
Hahaha... okay, here we go... My New Man Cave | Album by strobez (1:1)

John Thomas
Hey Greg, nice stud work. I hope you will have good ventilation for our airbrushing and lots of lighting.

Robbie
hmm - nice drill

Roy McKay
here for the follow....

Nigel Brown
It's a minefield ... so many different versions of (presumably) the same thing. The brand name appears to change over time and is also different again in each country

Kyle DeHart
Just bought a new bottle last year (in the US) and they still look like picture #1. Works great!

John Thomas
Kyle, Thanks

John Thomas
Hey, Guys. Has any one hard if Johnson Wax is Disconntinued pledge floor polish? I have been looking for it in the stores where I found it and it seams to be gone and I am seeing Plant Base products. I have still see it on ebay. If any one has an idea please post.

Spanjaard
i was about to look for this (wonderful) post after i read here in SCM that J&J has stopped with it 😭
SCM Newsfeed

John Thomas
Spanjaard, thanks. That is sad. I use Pledge for my clear coats and canopies. I do have a few bottles in my stash.

Robbie
Has a replacement been discovered? I have tried AK's Gauzy with mixed results (bubbles). Don't ever shake the bottle before use.

Spanjaard
i agree with you John Thomas. i also got some for the future...

Rui S
Well... never found it in Portugal 🙁

John Thomas
Robbie and Rui S, Thanks. It's like the perfect product that you use day to day and dont miss until it,s gone. I have not tried Gauzy but how could it be any better.

Robbie
At this point not looking for something better then Future but what we can use as a replacement with hopefully the same results

Spanjaard
Whoever find it, I hope it is posted here 😉

John Thomas
You Know there are a lot of good clears on the market now days, good for paint work but not for clear parts. Future or pledge is the only clear that really works on clear parts.

Kyle DeHart
I have seen some of the well known youtube channels trying out the Holloway House Quick Shine as an alternative and it looked good to me. If I run out of Pledge I'll probably give that a try.

John Thomas
Kyle, Thanks. I did see this product at Walmart. I may have to try it out

Kyle DeHart
If you do John and care to be the Guinea pig, please let us know how it goes. 😂 I have about a half bottle of Pledge left before I get desperate for something else.

John Thomas
Kyle, I would be glad to try it out and let you know. Give me a few days.

Clifford Keesler
That is a bummer that they stopped making the stuff. I still have 2 bottles of it though, I sometimes use craft paints in my airbrush and use my homemade acrylic thinner and a small amount of future in the mix and they work really well. The only problem I have ever had using future as a clear coat, happened on the F-4J I am building now. I painted the belly with my usual Tamiya white. Well when I went to spray the future on, it took the white right off, The whole belly turned black again and required a complete re-paint. I got me a bottle of artist acrylic gloss varnish and flat varnish at Michael's. I thin them with distilled water and they work great. I use IPA and windshield washer to clean my airbrush when I am done. I have a 19.00 airbrush I bought at Harbor Freight tools to use for my clear coats and it works well. If I clog it up, it is no major loss, as I have another one that has not even been opened yet, and for 19.00 I can replace one if I need to.

Rui
I found some selling on Amazon, but me thinks someone is trying to take advantage of us...
amazon.ca/Johnson-11..aps%2C151&sr=8-1

Spanjaard
91 USD per bottle.... it will not be the only one 🙁

John Thomas
Clifford, Rui and Spanjaard, Thanks. I have see Future or Pledge on Ebay selling for way to much. It is a great product but at what prise? A good alternative is needed. I am going to the store today to get some of the Holloway House Quite Shine and test it out. I will post my results. Hey Clifford. I also have one of Harbor Freight cheap airbrush that I use from time to time. I use it on dioramas and base coats. I got mine with the air compressor I got there. I also use clear coats from the art companys and whey work well but pledge is the best for Clear parts.

Rui S
👍

John Thomas
Rui, Thanks. Guy's give we a few days to do my tests. I will post some photos of the test as well.

Clifford Keesler
I agree, pledge is best for clear parts. Looking forward to your test of Holloway House Quite Shine, Where do you get it from?

Robbie
Also what flavor do you use? At Amazon there is multiple choices. Green label, Purple Label, Brown Label and Blue Label to name a few.

Martin Oostrom
Mixing with some Johnny Walker?

John Thomas
Clifford, Robbie and Martin, Thanks. I just picked up some Quite Shine in the Green label. I found it at Home Depot for $9.00 USD. I will start with the Green label. The Blue label had a Plant Base label on the bottle witch for now I will stay away from. Also FYI, I will only be using Acylic base paint for my test. I only use Acylic paints.

Clifford Keesler
Thanks.

Kyle DeHart
The people I've seen use it and say that it worked always used the green label. I think that will be your flavor of the day if the stuff works out. Obvious question will be longevity. None of us can know about that.

John Thomas
Clifford and Kyle. Thanks. That right Kyle. My test will be so limited it will be hard to tell the future of the Quite Shine. How it will hold up or will it yellow years from now the bottle has no note of UV protection. I have a good stock of Future/Pledge to last me years. So I can model on for some time.

John Thomas
Hey guys, Photos of my test with Quick Shine are up. I liked the product. IMHO it is just as good as Future/Pledge. I have found out that it acts much like Pledge. It brushes and airbrushes nice. The first coat is a little more satin so two or more coats will be needed for a more glossly finish. The only issue that I found was Decale Solutions. It left a little milkly residue around the decal but you can overcoat it with clear and it goes away. To remove Quick Shine I used window cleaner but IPA Alcohol works the best. Quick Shine did leave a little residue on my airbrush needle, so I cleaned it real well with IPA. I got mine at the Home Depot for around $9.00 USD. I did not do any tests on solvent base paints or washes. Let it cure over night before applying decals. I also applied it over vallejo Metal Colors and others metallic finishes with no problems. So give it a try, just remember your mileage may very.

Roy McKay
That Quick Shine looks like the replacement Klear that we got in Ireland a few years back (when the original went off the market) and I haven't seen it much (if at all) since. Milky but usable. I did notice a slight inferiority in the canopy test I did over the original, but you really had to look for a difference in a side by side comparison.

John Thomas
Thanks, Roy. Quick Shine is milky but so are others clears. I see no problems. The canopies are from the spares box maybe not the best but to me seams fine after dipping but I will do a side by side test of Quick Shine and Pledge on canopy to see. I would say buyer beware and do your own research before using it on a good project. The Quick Shine works fine for the kind of modeling that I do. However I will use up my Future/Pledge first before switching.

Kyle DeHart
Thanks John I appreciate the feedback. I'm a pretty cut rate modeler so I'll be needing a replacement for my pledge at some point. I use it because it's just so easy. So when I run out I'll be sure to give the quick shine a try!

Robbie
That stuff looks alot like AK's Guazy

Robbie
Also John I see you used Windex (window cleaner) which has ammonia in it to clean up. Ammonia is what you use to remove/clean up Future. Have you tried using straight ammonia on your cleaning ? I know the stuff stinks big time but I am curious. I think IPA may not be enough. I would spray ammonia through my airbrush after using Future (open some windows) and I have a nice squeaky clean AB

John Thomas
Kyle, Robbie Thanks. Robbie I did not use straight Ammonia on the Quick Shine I have some and will try it out. I do use Window Cleaner with Ammonia in my airbrush after using Future/Pledge. I know it's bad on the airbrush but I flush it right after with IPA and water. I have never used AK's Guazy so I dont know how it works. So guys give it a try and some one post some test on solvent base paints and Quick Shine that well be helpfull.

Robbie
TY John for the testing. I have the Quick Shine on my list for my next foray to the big hardware warehouse. I mostly use Future to shine up the transparancies. Glossing the model for decals I have at least in my mind more options for gloss coats and for me if QS does as good as future on transparancies I will be a happy camper (modeler). I might some day see how QS fares with AK's Gauzy since QS is much much cheaper. Cheers

John Thomas
Robbie, Thanks.

John Thomas
Some new photos up today. I did a side by side canopy test with Pledge and Quick Shine and I could not tell and difference between the too. I also tested straight Ammonia and the Ammonia did not fully removed the QS. IPA is the best way to remove Quick Shine I have found.

Robbie
Good test. Thanks - I guess if I go QS to remember to stock up on IPA and not Ammonia 👍 Do any of the instructions on the label mention what they (QS) recommend for cleanup/or removal? If I get a chance I will dig out my jar of Guazy and see what AK says

John Thomas
Robbie, Thanks. Yes IPA does work the best. I used the 70% IPA works fine. . All I saw on the bottle label was that you can buy a bottle of QS cleaner as a remover, not needed for what I do.

Robbie
Do you know what the label looks like for the QS cleaner? I am seeing several options. I may want to have it around and use to clean up brushes and the Air Brush. Also I looked at the AK Gausy bottle and no mention on what to use to thin or clean up/remove.

John Thomas
Robbie, No. The QS bottle just said too remove use QS deep cleaner and that all, I have not seen the deep cleaner label but I would think if a deep cleaner for QS to remove QS it should clean other objects like brushes and airbrushes. I see no need to thin QS for airbrushing.