Subaru sedan delivery drift car
To start, 98 doner Impreza with damaged roof along side the 99 Impreza
Doner car body cut up, rest of the body sections are for the parts box
Initial idea
First test fit after boot lid and rear roof section removed
some major work still to do
Inner side panels fitted for strength. Rear glass had to be modified to fit hence Plasticard strip used for building up the rear
Got a bit handy with the dremel and removed too much plastic from the rear boot lid so had to rebuild with plasticard. Rear glass modified to on the 'shelf' I have created
A day's Touring Car racing at Thruxton inspired my rear spoiler
Kit boot lid cut to size to fit on the 'shelf', then kit spolier added.
Boot lid then cut to accommodate the glass, which neatly covers [I hope!] all the rough areas thus reducing the filling and sanding.
looks good even if I do say so myself
Test fit two. Removed piece of boot lid glued to underside of rear spoiler base.
With extra plasticard strip, I have a firm base to fit everything
From above I now have a complete window frame which looks neater.
Thank the Lord for Milliput! Having added plasticard sides to create the van, I have spent the weekend filling and rubbing down
I used standard Milliput for the large areas first then Fine for the smaller areas and blemishes.
More work is required on the rear quarters to tidy and shape them. Roof is just about done.
After some more work I have the beginnings of the shape I’m after.
Had re-glue one of the sides, so more filling is required
Who doesn’t like a curvy rear ?
My first 3D printed parts - drift car handbrake and digital dial from www.spinneyworld.com
Almost completed painting the fiddly parts - my least favourite part of the build
Around 6 coats of white primer and I’ve finally got rid of the ‘mica blue’ plastic finish.
My own Subaru is White Satin Metallic so seemed appropriate to use. Red splatter was done blowing through a drinks straw cut and wound with masking tape to create a smaller diameter hole.
The laquer (sparkly bits) tended to 'thin' the white top coat so I had to repaint entire body to get a good finish. So that's 2 cans of primer, 1 1/2 cans of white top coat and 1 can of laquer
Decals are from the kit. Slixx, Modelworks, Aoshima and the spares stash
Decals applied
Rear view
Chassis complete. The brakes and axles were drilled out to accept 4 mm Evergreen tube for the Aoshima wheels
All glass and decals now done.
Just lights, mirros and detail parts to add.
Interior complete
3D printed parts look great. Look carefully in the centre consol and you can see a 3D printed cut off switch
Damaged area has been glued and hand painted. Just need to disguise it.
Almost finished ! Aoshima Rays Extreme 57 wheels Look great. Just got to find some tubing to complete the drilled centre spindles and attach
Completed car. Really pleased with end result
The wheels came out really well in the end
Commenti
1 7 August 2019, 09:31
Chris Greathouse
I'll grab a blue ice slushi drink... It's warm here today. Your car is like a horror movie with all the hacking and slashing, and yet it makes us smile. 😄 Watching!!
I'll grab a blue ice slushi drink... It's warm here today. Your car is like a horror movie with all the hacking and slashing, and yet it makes us smile. 😄 Watching!!
26 August 2019, 20:24
Munkyslut
The mock up pix are very good, gives a proper insight in to how you are going to complete the process. Looks factory, can't give a better compliment Nigel 😉
The mock up pix are very good, gives a proper insight in to how you are going to complete the process. Looks factory, can't give a better compliment Nigel 😉
26 August 2019, 20:26
Nigel Chapman
Thanks Guys. I t took me 2 hours this morning before I worked it out. Chris, I love that horror movie thing - could be something in there for the paint job !
Thanks Guys. I t took me 2 hours this morning before I worked it out. Chris, I love that horror movie thing - could be something in there for the paint job !
26 August 2019, 20:35
Nigel Chapman
Started the paint stages at last. White primer has gone well apart from scratching part of the chassis so having to repaint the damaged area Doh!
Started the paint stages at last. White primer has gone well apart from scratching part of the chassis so having to repaint the damaged area Doh!
28 October 2019, 18:44
Nigel Chapman
Thanks guys. All those episodes of Kindig Design, Iron Resurrection, Texas Metal, Speed is the new black and Gas Monkey I've watched are starting to pay off.
Thanks guys. All those episodes of Kindig Design, Iron Resurrection, Texas Metal, Speed is the new black and Gas Monkey I've watched are starting to pay off.
29 October 2019, 07:44
Nigel Chapman
Thanks. I've always been a custom car fan, reading copies of Street Machine and Custom Car from an early age to nowadays watching the TV shows. They are great for showing the build process particularly chassis construction (Texas metal) and body prep/paint (Iron Resurrection) which I try to apply to my model building. It's taken around 30 years but I think I'm getting there.
Thanks. I've always been a custom car fan, reading copies of Street Machine and Custom Car from an early age to nowadays watching the TV shows. They are great for showing the build process particularly chassis construction (Texas metal) and body prep/paint (Iron Resurrection) which I try to apply to my model building. It's taken around 30 years but I think I'm getting there.
29 October 2019, 23:27
Nigel Chapman
Well after 3 days dodging rain shows running to/from the garage I now have my paint job - Subaru Satin White Metallic with Tamiya red splatter. Chris Greathouse - I owe you man, that comment in August was a good call !
Well after 3 days dodging rain shows running to/from the garage I now have my paint job - Subaru Satin White Metallic with Tamiya red splatter. Chris Greathouse - I owe you man, that comment in August was a good call !
13 November 2019, 14:03
Nigel Chapman
HELP !! Installed the glass to the body however with the rear glass, I have manged to 'push' out the left hand rear panel leaving a fine crack along the top above the Rockstar Logo. Any ideas on how to repair it ? Last photo should shows what I mean
HELP !! Installed the glass to the body however with the rear glass, I have manged to 'push' out the left hand rear panel leaving a fine crack along the top above the Rockstar Logo. Any ideas on how to repair it ? Last photo should shows what I mean
1 March 2020, 15:20
Bozzer
Nige, I'd be tempted to put a little Tamiya thin in the crack and push it back with the end of a pencil with an eraser on. Not too much thin though!
Nige, I'd be tempted to put a little Tamiya thin in the crack and push it back with the end of a pencil with an eraser on. Not too much thin though!
1 March 2020, 15:28
Nigel Chapman
OK thanks that sounds a better way to go. I was considering some thin Yellow tape just to cover it and add to the paint job.
OK thanks that sounds a better way to go. I was considering some thin Yellow tape just to cover it and add to the paint job.
1 March 2020, 15:39
Munkyslut
Brush Future Klear Polish (or whatever we call it now) straight over the crack, you could even cover the whole screen.
I've done the same to worn, scratched, damaged aircraft canopy's etc & it's worked miracles 😉
Brush Future Klear Polish (or whatever we call it now) straight over the crack, you could even cover the whole screen.
I've done the same to worn, scratched, damaged aircraft canopy's etc & it's worked miracles 😉
1 March 2020, 16:06
Nigel Chapman
Bozzer and Munky, thanks for your suggestions. I've got some Tamiya thin and applied it to the crack, then hand painted over the top. It's starting to look better, just need to disguise it with some red paint - That will be fun !
Bozzer and Munky, thanks for your suggestions. I've got some Tamiya thin and applied it to the crack, then hand painted over the top. It's starting to look better, just need to disguise it with some red paint - That will be fun !
11 March 2020, 17:22
Nigel Chapman
Found the Aoshima wheels would not fit my Axle modifications properly as the central spindle Was longer and had a larger diameter than I had accounted for. So Finally plucked up the courage and ended up drilling out the center wheel spindles With the Dremel. Some sort of metal tubing Is needed for a tight fit and they are done.
Found the Aoshima wheels would not fit my Axle modifications properly as the central spindle Was longer and had a larger diameter than I had accounted for. So Finally plucked up the courage and ended up drilling out the center wheel spindles With the Dremel. Some sort of metal tubing Is needed for a tight fit and they are done.
5 June 2020, 13:22
Nigel Chapman
Finally completed. I used Evergreen 227 (5.5 mm dia) tubing cut to length for wheel centre and rear lights from a mid seventies Corvette for the centre caps, painted black.
Many thanks to everyone for their advice.
Finally completed. I used Evergreen 227 (5.5 mm dia) tubing cut to length for wheel centre and rear lights from a mid seventies Corvette for the centre caps, painted black.
Many thanks to everyone for their advice.
18 June 2020, 13:34
Konrad -
Oh that looks really cool and the idea with the colour Splash is awesome 👍!
Maybe I can use this technique also on my RC Car....
Anyhow great work!!
Oh that looks really cool and the idea with the colour Splash is awesome 👍!
Maybe I can use this technique also on my RC Car....
Anyhow great work!!
19 June 2020, 05:43
Geert Heijl
very nice, very original, what is the story? a bloodmoquito collapsed at your car😉 .......
very nice, very original, what is the story? a bloodmoquito collapsed at your car😉 .......
19 June 2020, 08:31
Nigel Chapman
Thanks guys. The paint job was inspired by a comment from Chris Greathouse at the beginning of this thread. I wanted something that was easy to do and would stand out using the Standard Subaru Satin white metallic.
Thanks guys. The paint job was inspired by a comment from Chris Greathouse at the beginning of this thread. I wanted something that was easy to do and would stand out using the Standard Subaru Satin white metallic.
19 June 2020, 09:52