DH60 GIII Moth Major. Converted Airfix 1/72 DH82
Commenti
26 17 June 2020, 17:20
Alex K
Thank you for joining and sharing here such off-the-beaten-track little gems! 👍 👍 🙂
Thank you for joining and sharing here such off-the-beaten-track little gems! 👍 👍 🙂
17 June 2020, 17:59
LucLuke B
Nice story behind the plane. I first thought it was the 1:48 version so full of details.
Nice story behind the plane. I first thought it was the 1:48 version so full of details.
17 June 2020, 18:50
Dave Flitton
I like it, too bad you could not provide some in-build photos as well
I like it, too bad you could not provide some in-build photos as well
17 June 2020, 19:07
Elias Korompilis
Thanks everybody,
@Dave Flitton: I have some wip shots, will try to find them
@Skywalker: Monofilament (fishing line) 0.06mm gray color.
Thanks everybody,
@Dave Flitton: I have some wip shots, will try to find them
@Skywalker: Monofilament (fishing line) 0.06mm gray color.
17 June 2020, 20:22
Lochsa River
the rigging is superb....would you be willing to post some closeups and talk a bit about your technique?
this is simply outstanding in 1/72 and is way beyond my skillset!
super build. congratulations
the rigging is superb....would you be willing to post some closeups and talk a bit about your technique?
this is simply outstanding in 1/72 and is way beyond my skillset!
super build. congratulations
18 June 2020, 18:10
Elias Korompilis
Thank you,
@Lochsa_River, nothing special about my rigging. I drill holes, pass the wires, use superglue and then putty to cover the holes, trying to do all gluing and puttying on the top and lower sides of the wings, it is easier to sand them.
Tips:
-Study the rigging routes before you start building the model. Drill all holes or add hinge arms before assembly.
-Plan your moves carefully, each model requires a different strategy. Some wires are better to be installed before complete assembly, some before or after painting/decalling.
-Use a good strong visor
-Be patient
-for 1/72 biplanes I use 0.06mm monofilament (fishing line), 0.3mm carbide drills and zap thin CA.
-practice. practice, practice, practice... It took me 53 years building models to be here 🙂
Thank you,
@Lochsa_River, nothing special about my rigging. I drill holes, pass the wires, use superglue and then putty to cover the holes, trying to do all gluing and puttying on the top and lower sides of the wings, it is easier to sand them.
Tips:
-Study the rigging routes before you start building the model. Drill all holes or add hinge arms before assembly.
-Plan your moves carefully, each model requires a different strategy. Some wires are better to be installed before complete assembly, some before or after painting/decalling.
-Use a good strong visor
-Be patient
-for 1/72 biplanes I use 0.06mm monofilament (fishing line), 0.3mm carbide drills and zap thin CA.
-practice. practice, practice, practice... It took me 53 years building models to be here 🙂
18 June 2020, 20:19
Ben M
Beautiful build of a great subject! Thank you for sharing the pictures and your tips.
Beautiful build of a great subject! Thank you for sharing the pictures and your tips.
18 June 2020, 20:36
Lochsa River
Thank you for that information!
You have inspired me with this work. I will break out some heretofore way too tiny 1/72 biplane and give this a go.
The idea of purposely drilling holes in the very visible top and bottom of the wings and then repairing them...always seemed like a route for disaster and I've been using eyelets, mostly.
But, this looks great and as you say, some practice may be necessary.
thanks again.
Thank you for that information!
You have inspired me with this work. I will break out some heretofore way too tiny 1/72 biplane and give this a go.
The idea of purposely drilling holes in the very visible top and bottom of the wings and then repairing them...always seemed like a route for disaster and I've been using eyelets, mostly.
But, this looks great and as you say, some practice may be necessary.
thanks again.
19 June 2020, 03:15
Elias Korompilis
Using eyelets for such a small scale it is not a good idea, it can be done, but is a pain and you will probably be overscale.
You have to consider that you are actually dealing with parts invisible to the naked eye. The photos I posted if viewed on a desktop screen show the model 2 or 3 times bigger than its actual size. I don't have a macro lens to make proper close ups. To deal with the extremely shallow depth of field I already use Helicon focus. (heliconsoft.com/heli..ducts/helicon-focus/)
For wip shots of the moth and the rigging of some of my biplanes visit my ipernity albums:
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1245958
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1263520
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1259436
Using eyelets for such a small scale it is not a good idea, it can be done, but is a pain and you will probably be overscale.
You have to consider that you are actually dealing with parts invisible to the naked eye. The photos I posted if viewed on a desktop screen show the model 2 or 3 times bigger than its actual size. I don't have a macro lens to make proper close ups. To deal with the extremely shallow depth of field I already use Helicon focus. (heliconsoft.com/heli..ducts/helicon-focus/)
For wip shots of the moth and the rigging of some of my biplanes visit my ipernity albums:
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1245958
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1263520
ipernity.com/doc/elias_k/album/1259436
19 June 2020, 09:26
Lochsa River
Thank you again for your advice.
One question that occurs is what is done at a point where multiple lines come together like at a strut mount. Do you just make a larger hole in that case for the multiple lines or is there some other technique used when 2 or 3 (or 4!) lines terminate at the same place?
Thank you again for your advice.
One question that occurs is what is done at a point where multiple lines come together like at a strut mount. Do you just make a larger hole in that case for the multiple lines or is there some other technique used when 2 or 3 (or 4!) lines terminate at the same place?
20 June 2020, 16:18
Elias Korompilis
I check the real plane and do accordingly.
Usually every wire has its own attachment so I drill 2 or more holes even if they are 0,5mm apart. To be sure I have the same hole spacing for every strut, I use a photo etched template (like those for rivet holes), or make one by drilling thin silver nickel sheet.
If wires need to use the same hole, 0 .3mm is wide enough for 2 or 3 0.06mm monofilaments.
I am about to start a new 1/72 tiger moth. I will try to find a macro lens (I am currently using a mobile phone for wip shots ) and upload more about its rigging.
I check the real plane and do accordingly.
Usually every wire has its own attachment so I drill 2 or more holes even if they are 0,5mm apart. To be sure I have the same hole spacing for every strut, I use a photo etched template (like those for rivet holes), or make one by drilling thin silver nickel sheet.
If wires need to use the same hole, 0 .3mm is wide enough for 2 or 3 0.06mm monofilaments.
I am about to start a new 1/72 tiger moth. I will try to find a macro lens (I am currently using a mobile phone for wip shots ) and upload more about its rigging.
20 June 2020, 17:24
Lochsa River
Hello again, Elias....
Can you answer a rigging question? It seems clear what has to happen with lines coming to and from wings...the wings would be drilled through and repaired...simple enough, the holes are tiny.
But, what do you do on a connection to a fuselage that has no way to get to the other side to pull a line through?
Here is an example:
I-153 WWII China Guomindang AF Fighter (ICM 72076, 1:72)
Note that the wing attachments are simple enough, but the lines then terminate at the fuselage, not another wing.
Do you have a suggestion in that case?
Thanks again for the help!
Hello again, Elias....
Can you answer a rigging question? It seems clear what has to happen with lines coming to and from wings...the wings would be drilled through and repaired...simple enough, the holes are tiny.
But, what do you do on a connection to a fuselage that has no way to get to the other side to pull a line through?
Here is an example:
I-153 WWII China Guomindang AF Fighter (ICM 72076, 1:72)
Note that the wing attachments are simple enough, but the lines then terminate at the fuselage, not another wing.
Do you have a suggestion in that case?
Thanks again for the help!
2 July 2020, 04:24
Erik De Smet
Drill a hole in the fuselage, glue the rigging line in it and work on from there to the Wings.
Drill a hole in the fuselage, glue the rigging line in it and work on from there to the Wings.
2 July 2020, 11:20
Spanjaard
actually you do not need to make the holes though the wings... drill a hole that does not go through, dab a tiny bit of CA at the end of the thread, and place it in the hole. works specially well if you use flexible rigging, since you can push it wait a few second for glue to cure and let it go.
you can also cut a tiny piece of wire and glue it to the end of the thread with CA, remove any excess (thread adn/of wire). add glue to the wire and stick it in the hole.
actually you do not need to make the holes though the wings... drill a hole that does not go through, dab a tiny bit of CA at the end of the thread, and place it in the hole. works specially well if you use flexible rigging, since you can push it wait a few second for glue to cure and let it go.
you can also cut a tiny piece of wire and glue it to the end of the thread with CA, remove any excess (thread adn/of wire). add glue to the wire and stick it in the hole.
2 July 2020, 11:22
Elias Korompilis
Thanks all!
@ Lochsa_River: what Eric De Smet said. drill and glue before assembling the fuselage.
Thanks all!
@ Lochsa_River: what Eric De Smet said. drill and glue before assembling the fuselage.
2 July 2020, 18:50
Charlie Spitfire
sad story for me with this one i had finished it but the paint number i got was corect but was a purple so it looked stuped and was glugy so it was patchy i was about to put on the decals and droped it i go another one and finished it but droped 10 minuits after finishing i now have a difrect tiger moth that i am waiting to build after finishing some other models i have
sad story for me with this one i had finished it but the paint number i got was corect but was a purple so it looked stuped and was glugy so it was patchy i was about to put on the decals and droped it i go another one and finished it but droped 10 minuits after finishing i now have a difrect tiger moth that i am waiting to build after finishing some other models i have
7 December 2021, 23:48
Alex K
Blue, blue... strange colour blue... I see a red Moth and I want to paint it blue... Good luck, Elias!
Blue, blue... strange colour blue... I see a red Moth and I want to paint it blue... Good luck, Elias!
14 January 2022, 19:07
Elias Korompilis
New decals ordered, few things fixed/improved, some damaged from handling, repaint complete 🙂
New decals ordered, few things fixed/improved, some damaged from handling, repaint complete 🙂
23 February 2022, 23:16
Album info
This is the Airfix new tool Tiger Moth converted to DH-60G III Moth Major.
Conversions required were to remove sweep back from both wings, new cabane struts, and a few more details. Custom made decals by LM decals.
SX-AAA, named "ΓΕΡΑΚΙ" (Hawk) was the first private aircraft to register in the Greek civil registry (c.1934).
Edit:I initially painted this model red, but according to more recent evidence the actual aircraft was blue, so I have to repaint it -a challenging task...