ニュースフィード
Paul Gallagher
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Gloster Meteor FR.9New: 30 September, 15:29 1:72
Gloster Meteor FR.9 VZ603/W, No.8 Squadron Royal Air Force, Sharjah, Trucial States, January 1958
プロジェクト: Gloster Meteor FR.9
18 23 September, 09:01
Roland Sachsenhofer
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20 15 September, 11:53
Roland Sachsenhofer
These pictures are the start of a model project that I had long shied away from with respect: the kit parts promised a lot of fun and a highly interesting aircraft as a result, but also a lot of 'toil and trouble'. On the other hand: the adventure simply beckons.... 🙂
Here you can see the parts in almost raw condition, I only started to detail a little with round and flat wire. The tricky question was how to treat the sensitive and already somewhat battered transparent part of the unusual cockpit glazing. I decided to cut off the two side parts, mask the inside and outside of the windows and only attach the central clear part at the very end. I like the pictures with the over-designed radial engine: what a power-to-weight ratio for these racing machines!
The last two pictures show the current state of construction and detailing.... Well, we'll see...
These pictures are the start of a model project that I had long shied away from with respect: the kit parts promised a lot of fun and a highly interesting aircraft as a result, but also a lot of 'toil and trouble'. On the other hand: the adventure simply beckons.... 🙂
Here you can see the parts in almost raw condition, I only started to detail a little with round and flat wire. The tricky question was how to treat the sensitive and already somewhat battered transparent part of the unusual cockpit glazing. I decided to cut off the two side parts, mask the inside and outside of the windows and only attach the central clear part at the very end. I like the pictures with the over-designed radial engine: what a power-to-weight ratio for these racing machines!
The last two pictures show the current state of construction and detailing.... Well, we'll see...
15 September, 12:00
Roland Sachsenhofer
There she is now - at least on her own two feet, even if the appearance with engine and mighty cowling - not to mention the upper wing - will change a lot. The construction steps up to this point were accompanied by a lot of sanding, but the accuracy of fit turned out to be surprisingly good.
There she is now - at least on her own two feet, even if the appearance with engine and mighty cowling - not to mention the upper wing - will change a lot. The construction steps up to this point were accompanied by a lot of sanding, but the accuracy of fit turned out to be surprisingly good.
20 September, 17:00
Skyhiker
Ok now that's one interesting plane. Certainly not a Laird a**. What a huge engine!
Ok now that's one interesting plane. Certainly not a Laird a**. What a huge engine!
20 September, 18:26
Roland Sachsenhofer
You're right!
A friend asked if I was building a flying washing machine - in fact, the empty mount for the huge motor still reminds me of it. All the more so now that everything is white: it went well with all the white that Martin Mars is currently applying and forms a good basis for the following 'lemon yellow'.
You're right!
A friend asked if I was building a flying washing machine - in fact, the empty mount for the huge motor still reminds me of it. All the more so now that everything is white: it went well with all the white that Martin Mars is currently applying and forms a good basis for the following 'lemon yellow'.
21 September, 16:48
Skyhiker
Looks a bit like a cement mixer to me, but I can see a washing machine in there.
Looks a bit like a cement mixer to me, but I can see a washing machine in there.
21 September, 22:27
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thank you Skyhiker, Cement mixer - I'm laughing my arse off, the Solution is obviously an inspiring sight: how apt!
It's probably time for the massive cowling with the mighty radial engine to go on the front end. One step towards this is the colour yellow, which will remain on the wings and tailplane. I would like to use Gunze's 'Emerald Green' for the fuselage colour.
Thank you Skyhiker, Cement mixer - I'm laughing my arse off, the Solution is obviously an inspiring sight: how apt!
It's probably time for the massive cowling with the mighty radial engine to go on the front end. One step towards this is the colour yellow, which will remain on the wings and tailplane. I would like to use Gunze's 'Emerald Green' for the fuselage colour.
22 September, 09:51
Roland Sachsenhofer
From this morning with freshly applied decals: everything seems to shimmer and shine appropriately - but it turned out that the decals are absolute 'self-destructors'. The ones you can see here on the model fortunately went reasonably well, but the large markings on the wings and fuselage were beyond repair: just crumbs. Now I'm looking for someone who might be able to make me some painting masks on a PC. Luckily I scanned the decal sheet beforehand.
From this morning with freshly applied decals: everything seems to shimmer and shine appropriately - but it turned out that the decals are absolute 'self-destructors'. The ones you can see here on the model fortunately went reasonably well, but the large markings on the wings and fuselage were beyond repair: just crumbs. Now I'm looking for someone who might be able to make me some painting masks on a PC. Luckily I scanned the decal sheet beforehand.
24 September, 06:31
Lex Jassies
I always enjoy the surprise you reveal to us. Often with a type of aircraft that I had never seen before. Please keep it up! 👍
I always enjoy the surprise you reveal to us. Often with a type of aircraft that I had never seen before. Please keep it up! 👍
24 September, 13:29
Ben M
Beautiful paintwork!
I don't know if this helps but I've sent scans of decals to stsdecals before and they were able to make replacements for the ones that shattered.
Beautiful paintwork!
I don't know if this helps but I've sent scans of decals to stsdecals before and they were able to make replacements for the ones that shattered.
24 September, 16:51
Roland Sachsenhofer
Hi mates, I'm sure you can imagine how motivating your reactions are - thank you very much! I'll try that, Ben, thanks for that too!
Hi mates, I'm sure you can imagine how motivating your reactions are - thank you very much! I'll try that, Ben, thanks for that too!
25 September, 13:14
Juergen Klinglhuber
Looking gorgeous !! let me know if you are succesful with stsdecals, I might have other contacts too.
Looking gorgeous !! let me know if you are succesful with stsdecals, I might have other contacts too.
28 September, 09:54
Roland Sachsenhofer
Thank you Jürgen! I've just returned from the 'Bavarian Modelling Days' in Erding - a most enjoyable modelling weekend! 🙂 STS really doesn't look bad, but I may have found a quicker way: A modelling colleague has taken on the task of creating adhesive masks for the outstanding identifiers on his PC. The way things are going, it should be possible to spray soon.
This morning I was able to brace the Super Solution using what I think is a good method: The flat wire is stapled into one hole with cyanoacrylate, the other end is drilled through so that the wire is fixed in place with a drop of super glue while one end is pulled hard. Once everything has hardened - with a spray from the 'activator' in seconds - you can let go - the wire tightens perfectly and all is well. Now all that remains to be done is to sand the excess wire and glue flat before applying a new coat of paint.
Thank you Jürgen! I've just returned from the 'Bavarian Modelling Days' in Erding - a most enjoyable modelling weekend! 🙂 STS really doesn't look bad, but I may have found a quicker way: A modelling colleague has taken on the task of creating adhesive masks for the outstanding identifiers on his PC. The way things are going, it should be possible to spray soon.
This morning I was able to brace the Super Solution using what I think is a good method: The flat wire is stapled into one hole with cyanoacrylate, the other end is drilled through so that the wire is fixed in place with a drop of super glue while one end is pulled hard. Once everything has hardened - with a spray from the 'activator' in seconds - you can let go - the wire tightens perfectly and all is well. Now all that remains to be done is to sand the excess wire and glue flat before applying a new coat of paint.
30 September, 17:09
Jakko
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Sherman BARVNew: 30 September, 13:52 1:35
The tracks were painted with a wash of dark red-brown paint over the grey, then drybrushed with a medium metallic colour...
プロジェクト: Sherman BARV, D-Day
34 2 July, 20:50
gorby
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Looks a very interesting conversion.
5 July, 06:33
Jakko
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
> I think you win this weeks prize for most heavy duty modelling tool. 😄
Probably, yeah 🙂 It's a metalworking lathe, so a bit overkill for just turning down the seam on those wheels, but I didn't feel like aching fingers from scraping them down with a knife — I get those even when I hold them in a modelling vice, never mind just between my fingers.
> that kind of set up can tool a real bogie!!
Having seen a disassembled Sherman bogie up close, I must say I think this one is a size too small for that 😉
5 July, 08:53
Jakko
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
@Mr D: that's not the welds yet, it's just the filler needed to plug the gaps 🙁 I'm still debating how to add all the weld seams.
@Ben M: An M2 screw, about 2 cm long, through the hole in the wheel, with a nut to tighten it. It needs to be fairly tight else chances are the wheel will stop as soon as the chisel hits it. On Asuka two-piece wheels, you need to do this before assembling the parts, because the hole on the piece to be glued in is smaller than on the part that has the tyre moulded on it.
9 July, 08:59
Ben M
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you, I can envision the setup. I have a small lathe and arthritis in my hands, this technique could help me a lot. Thanks!
9 July, 11:58
Mr D
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
Regarding weld's l have seen super glue used through a fine tip, you need steady hand n move in pattern to create weld.
Sorry l was looking at the resin 🤔🤣.
Good stuff be keeping eye
On progress 👍👍
9 July, 13:30
Jakko
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
@Ben M: What also works is a modeller's vice. Clamp the wheel in that, scrape down the seam with a straight knife over a third or so of the wheel, then unclamp and turn it, and repeat. If I scrape more than about two or three wheels by hand, my fingers ache enough that I have to stop, so the vice helps a lot. But you also get a lot of plastic scrapings all over your modelling area, so this time, I figured I'd put those in someone else's hobby room instead for a change 😉
@Mr D: Hahaha! The ones on the resin were put there by Resicast 🙂 But I'll now have to make ones that look similar, or at least not out of place next to them. I'm thinking a thin string of two-part epoxy, textured with a sharp tool.
9 July, 17:09
Mr D
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
Good video 👍, the finish on the flat plate work looks authentic, l think it's had better rough cast look from the brush stippling before he added the putty coat.
Good idea on the weld , epoxy putty best as regular epoxy levels out again.
11 July, 12:55
Jakko
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
I've begun to add the weld seams now — see photo 23 🙂 Basically, Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty that I mixed up a very small amount of, then took even smaller amounts from that and rolled it as thin as I could in my hand before pressing it into the join between the parts. Getting it to stick there is tricky, especially once I began texturing it with the tip of a knife — it wants to adhere to skin and steel much better than to plastic, unfortunately 🙁 But with a bit of perseverance it does eventually stick.
11 July, 17:41
Robert Podkoński
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
I see some heavy duty equipment here and a lot of elbow grease... Good job so far, Jakko! Keep it up!
16 July, 15:17
Jakko
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
Thanks, though this is fairly straightforward. The most difficult part was finding a good way to curve the splash plates, really.
16 July, 17:21
Mr D
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
Taking shape now, the green welding joints are looking a better medium.
Interesting to see an adaptation taking place of the original.
Thanks for your posts, good to see steps
👍👍👍
25 July, 21:06
Jakko
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
Thanks. TBH, I don't really care to look at photos of finished models — I much prefer seeing how they got to be that way, after which the finished pics make sense 🙂 So I post in-progress photos instead of only what it looks like at the end.
26 July, 08:57
Ben M
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
Looks great, what an interesting subject. I enjoy your in progress photos.
My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
30 September, 16:06
Mr D
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
Hi Jakko👋
Very nice... great job, thanks for the uploads....be interesting to watch progress.
Like it 😁👍👍
30 September, 16:20
Jakko
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
Thanks, guys 🙂
> I enjoy your in progress photos.
Speaking for myself, I much prefer looking at how a model was built, than how it looks when it's finished 🙂
> My favorite bit is the martini glass holder up there on the bridge.
I take it you mean the No. 19 set 'B' aerial …
30 September, 17:08
Maddin Maddin
このアイテムを所有しています
このアイテムを所有しています
Hitachi Vibratory Combined Roller ZC50C-5 Construction Machinery Combined
Hasegawa 1:35
66002 (WM02) 2017 新金型 30 September, 17:08
Salvatore Ferragina
新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
1 30 September, 16:54
Bas Tonn
Well done, good colours. Also good to see the planking from the truckbed.
Well done, good colours. Also good to see the planking from the truckbed.
30 September, 17:07
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