ニュースフィード

Christian
Hallo Stefan, hab das selbe Modell im Regal. Bin gespannt wie deine wird, soweit schaut das richtig vielversprechend aus. Und ich bekomme bei deinen Bildern richtig Lust, den Bau der Messerschmitt ebenfalls zu starten!

Christoph Kunz
Nice Idea with the tape and decal combo 👍

Stefan L.
@Christian Hallo Christian, bist jetzt sind mir bei dem Modell keinerlei Probleme aufgefallen, alles passt wunderbar zusammen , kann dir nur empfehlen das Modell zu bauen. Selbst wenn das Modell verglichen mit den neuen Tamiya oder Eduard Modellen weniger Details aufweist, macht es sehr viel Spaß diese Details selber hinzuzufügen und selbst wenn man die Details weglässt, ist das Modell sehr schnell gebaut und für den Preis meiner Meinung nach sehr zu empfehlen. Abgesehen davon sind die meisten neuen Bausätze der BF109 von der G Variante und nicht von der E Variante. Hoffentlich kann ich dich mit meinem Bau inspirieren, dein Modell auch anzufangen 🙂

Stefan L.
@Christoph Kunz thank you!

Christian
Schaut sehr gut aus Stefan! Die Sache mit den Nieten für meine E hat der Vorbesitzer meines Kits mit einem kompletten Satz Nieten Decals von HGW gelöst. Für andere Projekte hab ich auch schon über ein solches riveting Tool nachgedacht?! Hab jetzt einmal geplant, das Modell über den Winter zu bauen. Allerdings will ich vorher noch meine UH-1B und die MH-60K zu Ende bringen, bzw. diese parallel dazu bauen. Bis Mitte November bin ich noch sehr mit unserem Hausprojekt und der Landwirtschaft eingeteilt. Auf alle Fälle bin ich auf das Resultat deiner Bemühungen gespannt!!!

Desert Marlin
My favorite is the Emil variant.

Stefan L.
@Christian Ein solches Nieten Set habe ich auch gesehen aber um ehrlich zu sein, ist es mir nicht wert, den Preis des gesamten Modells noch einmal für Nieten zu zahlen. Gut für dich, dass der Vorbesitzer sie schon gekauft hat, ich würde sie auf jeden Fall benutzen, bin schon gespannt wie deine Emil aussehen wird!

Stefan L.
@Mark Lawrence since this is my first BF109, I'm no expert yet but I also like the Emil just simply due to the fact, that the Gustav variants seem to get build more often, which why I like seeing the Emil instead of yet another Gustav!

Desert Marlin
Those from the Schlachgater are also quite interesting.

Sergej I
Great progress, Stefan 👍

Stefan L.
@Sergej I, thank you so much!

John
Looks great Stefan and nice cockpit. Neat trick on the fishing line, thanks.

Stefan L.
@John thank you for your nice words! Always happy to spread some tips! 🙂

Marcin Dudek
Wow, thanks for the detailed description! I learned a lot only by reding. I'm looking forward for more.

Stefan L.
@Marcin Dudek I really appreciate your comment Marcin! I wasn't expecting that someone really reads all the stuff I write but seems I was wrong! It makes me really happy that you found some useful tips even though this is just my second proper model and I am far from being a somehow experienced modeler. Take care and keep modeling 🙂

John
For the boundaries since it's straight edge you can just touch it up with a post it note pretty easily.

Stefan L.
@John thanks for the tip! I would have masked it again but the post it method is much easier, didn't think of that, thanks alot!

Christophe
Thank you for sharing!

Stefan L.
@Christophe your welcome! Appreciate it and thanks for the comment!

John
Nice mottling Stefan. 👍

Stefan L.
@John thank you very much John!

Doubtingmango
Fantastic build with a great narrative filled with useful tips

Stefan L.
@Doubtingmango thank you for your kind words!

John
Looking really good!

Stefan L.
@John thanks!

Jennifer Franklin
That's a neat trick with the fishing line; lots of great detail on your work. Very nice work so far.

Stefan L.
@Jennifer Franklin thank you for the nice words 🙂 I'm really trying my best and hope that my increased experience will show at the end result, especially when compared to my first ever modelkit, the Eurofighter

TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)
Looking good, especially knowing this is your second build. 1:48 is a good scale to start with. Thumbs up and keep modeling 👍

Stefan L.
@Thomas Haberl thank you very much! 🙂

Guy Rump
Looking great! 👍

Stefan L.
Thank you!! 🙂 @Guy Rump

Gerald
👍

John
Nice job on the exhaust/gun stains. 👍 You are right, you really can't go too thin on that mix. I'm cheap so I just use XF-1 (and other colors for allied planes that used leaded gas) thinned way down with isopropanol and make multiple passes until it looks right. I also add some pastel/pigment to give some body to the stain as well like you suggested. Looking good, Stefan!

Stefan L.
@John thank you!! Tonight I also used black pigment in the core and close to the gun barrels to give the stains a more interesting look, happy with the result, pictures will follow soon! 🙂 And thanks for the tips, appreciate them alot! 🙂

Christoph Kunz
Amazing work on the antenna. Those cones are outstanding.

Stefan L.
@Christoph Kunz thank you alot!! In retrospect the spring, the insolator and the cone should be closer together but I am still very happy with the result, hopefully you are able to reproduce those cones if you like them based on my little guide some posts earlier 🙂

Desert Marlin
Absolutely love these antenna cones. Excellent idea! How was the antenna glued to the masts?

Stefan L.
@Desert Marlin thank you, appreciate it alot!! I used normal CA glue, not the slow drying or the thin one, just the regular VMS glue. Any CA will do the job. Just place a tiny drop on the mast, put the end of the antenna cable in it. Then you take you other end, stretch it a bit (thats the neat thing about those Uschi Van der Rosten rigging cables, because you can stretch them like a rubber band and they hold this stretched state, thus they look like a real, tensioned antenna cable would look like) then you put another tiny drop of CA on the other mast, but the rigging thru it and hold the position for 10 seconds and then you are done. To be on the save side, I then put another small drop of CA on the already glued ends of the antenna cable to enhance the connection even more. The end of the rigging was then cut using my exacto blade.

Desert Marlin
Excellent! Could I get a link to the Uschi Van der Rosten cables?

Stefan L.
@Desert Marlin sure, here is the link to the website I got them from (super-hobby.at/produ..ng-linka-0-02mm.html) I am Austrian, thus I shop on websites which are quite close to me, thats why the shop is from Poland. I am sure, you will find the same product or a very similar one at an American dealer. The one I linked you, is the exact diameter I also used (0,02mm), good look at finding this product! 🙂

Stefan L.
@Desert Marlin and here is the link to the product on ScaleMates: (Rigging - Medium Fine 0.02mm.. Mig Jimenez A.MIG-8017, No))

Desert Marlin
Much appreciated!!! Thanks Stefan!

Spanjaard
very nice result in the melted muuffler

Stefan L.
@Spanjaard thank you, I hope to achieve some nice rust variations at those dented spots

Spanjaard
I am sure you will 🙂

Doubtingmango
Great narrative! Watching

Stefan L.
@Doubtingmango thank's alot, appreciate it!

Christian W
I finally started this thing.

István Szücs
I'm curious for the final result!

Christian W
Me too 😉 I think I'm going on with that hood. The chances to get the right on ist nearly Zero.

Chris Parsons
Aah….been there, done that. I know your pain young Jedi!
I had the original as well at one time, re-powered with a 68 440 six pack, never going back to build another real "muscle car" but nice to have a representation of it at the least.
I converted the AMT 1971 body to a 73/74 body (it's a much cleaner mold) but used parts from Revell/ Monogram B body kits to get there in the end…musta used at least 4 other kits for parts. Scariest part was changing the rear side windows shapes from sweeping up to sweeping down. I may have pictures here somewhere…not sure but, I'm pretty sure I posted the build thread on Britmodeller if your interested

Christian W
@Chris ... That was my first thought when I read the first sentences, where you wrote that you converted the 1971 into that: the small window at the side and the c-post. I'll do a research on britmodeller to see, what you've done. On that point, it is too much work for me to go such a way. I want do have the kit done in December. I know, the details "under the body" could be better, but when it sits in the shelf, it doesn't matter somehow. For my needs, it is ok. It's only the hood, what concerns me for accuracy with the look to the movie car.

Christian W
@Chris ... I found your thread. But sadly there are no pictures anymore.
britmodeller.com/for..ger/#comment-3826045

Chris Parsons
Oh crap!
Sorry

Christian W
No problem 😉

Chris Parsons
I've found and added some images of my finished model here, no longer have images of the w.i.p. No idea what happened to them, you may be able to use (or not) for your build. The images are in my "Albums"

Bill Newcomer
I shall follow too.

Chris Parsons
That's nasty! I've had a paint do that to me as well! Never a good time!

Martin Oostrom
Tough luck Christian.

Bill Newcomer
I have never seen hobby paint crack like that. What is the carrier, enamel, lacquer, water?

Bob Hall
I thought it was cat hair at first glance and I was going to suggest, it time to shave the cat, but I see it's more of a deep rooted issue ! 🤔

Christian W
Thanks for your comments. First when I came into my hobby room I also thought it is a hair but... you see. I don't know, what went wrong. I used my rattle cans as on every model kit I built for years.
@Bill I don't know, what the colors are based on. As soon as I had no issue with them I didn't care.

The Dodge sits in a bath to get the paint of. After 24 hours the black was gone. Usually the primer stays on the body. In this case it was as usual 😄 but the hood is sticky and some parts of the body too. The crap goes on.

In the time of hoping and praying 😄 I took the bumper to get rid of that bumperettes.

Nigel Chapman
Is it a chemical reaction with the different paint colours?
Do you use the same paint manufacturer for your rattle cans?

Christian W
Maybe and no 😉
I do not know, whether it is a chemical reaction or something else. The manufacturer are different. I had the same issue with a
-> black Pontiac (easily 5 years ago - Pontiac Firebird - RIP | Album by Dominik (1:25)),
-> blue F40 (finished in 2017 - 1987 Ferrari F-40, Revell #7327 | Album by christian-w (1:24)) and
-> black Viper (Restoration in 2022). But the cracks came after some months or years and not within 24 hours.
-> KARR after
Now, when I'm writing this lines, I remember, that
-> another Pontiac got cracks in 2022 too (1989 Pontiac Firebird (red) for a friend - wip | Album by christian-w (1:25)).
The filler was the same but the body color was another manufacturer like on the Dodge. But the cracks came after clear cote. So ....

What do they have in common?
Filler? Yes. Only the Viper has old color under the new painting (it was a restoration - paint remover followed by a new paint job)
Color? Different manufacturer
Clear coat? Not all of them. Only KARR, the red Pontiac and F40.
Cracks came between 24 hours (Dodge), 9 months (red Pontiac) a couple years (F40). Also the time between the different layers vary or the question about a wet sanding and painting over it. There are a minimum of 2 days between the steps. Usually weeks, especially with clear coat.

I don't see a clear pattern.

shadowlight
Just some more thoughts about what do they have in common...
- moisture, temperature and air condition in your working room
- air pressure and paint thinner
I am very sorry that this happened to you btw.

Skyhiker
Not sure if this applies but cracks can happen if the under paint drys slower than the top coat. This can sometimes happen when you use a laquer or oil based paint and then add on top a faster drying acrylic or water based top coat that is too thick.

Christian W
Thank you for your suggestions.
@Skyhiker .... I think I can skip this reason mostly because. There were 9 days between base coat and the black. Before I painted it black, I wet sanded it and let it sit 2 days for drying. I think, that was enough time.
@shadowlight .... moisture and temperature could be a reason. Because I used my rattle cans for painting, I was outside. In this case in the evening hours and not middays. The day was sunny itself but when I painted it, the sun was nearly gone. Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

Another little step done: removing the bumperetts.

Christian W
At the weekend I sanded a lot of the filler down. The surface should be smooth enough. Yesterday I did another try to get it black. This time I used ma airbrush to paint it. And I skipped another layer of base coat 😄 At this time I don't care. I just want to have the paintjob done.

Bozzer
Christian, I don't care what anyone says, picture 20 looks awesome, and I would've just rolled with that, and stuck it in a diorama of a kid, trying to fix it up. I doubt that I'd ever be able to get that look, and you nailed it by accident! I gotta admit though, that black looks nice 👍

Christian W
You've nailed it. That were my thoughts too. If the next try fails, then I'll go with a restoration project. I'm not a person who throws model kits into the trash.
Thank you for your lines.

Nigel Chapman
Christian, Your perseverance has paid off handsomely, that new paint job looks ace

Christian W
Thank you. Yesterday I took it but I didn't do anything with it. I'll go for another wetsanding job. Why? Hm. Stupidity is sometines an a-hole. When I brushed the underside of the hood, it went off of the "holder", flipped and landed with the freshly painted side on the ground of my paint booth. You can imagine, that tehre is still some dirt on the ground. So that dirt is now on the hood scoop. Lesson learned: keep the parts better on the "holder".
I guess, that I have to give it another layer of black before even thinking about doing the clear cote.

István Szücs
If it wouldn't be a movie car, I'd leave the body in semigloss black, it's very nice.