ニュースフィード
Landlubber Mike新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
46 画像
MyAlbum
1:72
This picture is of BuNo 1063 - the subject I will be modeling. Very famous plane - was one of the ten JRS-1s that survi...
プロジェクト: Sikorsky JRS-1 (Eduard)
2+ 37 2 February, 15:21
Lochsa Riverhave to sit in...this is in the stash...I was looking at it yesterday...
25 February, 04:13
Landlubber MikeThanks for following guys. Lochsa, you're right about the canopy. There are fit issues in general with this kit - most of which aren't too difficult to deal with - but the canopy is a bit of a mess. I'm not really looking forward to that part of the build.
25 February, 17:33
Landlubber MikeThanks guys! Transall, it seems a lot stronger than the kit parts which were made from pretty thin plastic.
24 August, 00:56
Martin Oostrom新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
55 画像
WIP Köln trailer
1:24
Second clearcoat. Done outside due to size
プロジェクト: DAF 95 XF & Trailer "Köln Truck"
22 16 May, 18:27
BozzerI'm glad to see, that it's not just me, who does all this type of prep work. I've spent far too much time and money, on tools, gizmo's and fabrication of various things, just to try and speed up this process. Yet, I still end up falling back to the back of a #11 knife blade!
I'll hang around for this one mate, mainly to see the outcome of those amazing decals. But also to watch how the trailer goes together?
I helped my son build the Spacecab, way back in the early 2000's. He didn't enjoy it and abandoned his efforts 🙁 No wonder he became a plumber 😛
16 May, 23:58
Martin OostromKerry Cox taught Peter Hardy and Peter taught me: "Better remove those lines, you'll always know they're there."
I mostly use the cutting edge of the blade to scrape, I'll try the back sometime.
I assembled the chassis today and it seems perfectly straight. A lot of work remains before I can start on the decals.
17 May, 20:51
BozzerIf you draw the edge, of the back of the blade, it gives you a nice smooth, flat surface. It also doesn't dull your sharp blade? After a while, it becomes second nature. I have found, that those nasty mold lines, show up even more, when paint is applied? Even when I glue two parts together, it's always the back of the knife, that deals with the seam. You should definitely try it, and see if you notice the difference.
17 May, 22:21
Martin OostromThe doctor is in 😄
I managed some work on the axles Tuesday evening and I had half a day to myself yesterday. So I built the box with a lot of added plastic to get everything squared. I'll be sanding the outside and I don't want the thing to fold.
The mudflaps were unconvincing , so I went to town on them. Your opinions please?
26 May, 07:56
BozzerI've heard of guys, filling in reefers, with expanding foam?
I've never personally done it, because I like the option of opening doors. Those mudflaps look so much better now, too.
26 May, 19:34
Martin OostromMmm, insulation foam in a reefer….
There is/was a load of cyanide in that stuff. Not something I want to emit in my hobby room.
My 2k also contains cyanide, but those vapours are mainly vented outside
27 May, 14:05
BozzerI have never checked mate, and I've used it for sealing gaps, etc, for decades? However, I've definitely not used it on any models. In fairness though, all my current reefers are from AMT. I love the fact that they use 1 piece plastic, for the sides, base and top. It definitely makes them sturdy. I do have a few Italeri reefers though, and I was thinking about lining them with thin plastic? I don't want to compromise the look, so I thought maybe some 1mm sheet, would work? What do you think mate?
27 May, 20:21
Martin OostromLining with 1mm sheet is a possibility, but … see my new picture. On both sides there are two half rods running the whole length of the trailer and the ceiling is littered with protruding ejection marks.
The floor is smooth as the ejection marks are on the underside.
This Revell edition has water slide decals, the Italeri reefer I have has two big stickers for each side. Will be hell to line up, so I'll probably paint something.
27 May, 20:54
BozzerOn large decals, it's best to cut them into 3. It just makes things easier. I honestly wouldn't have a clue what to do with stickers though? That's exactly what I have, on my Smokey and the Bandit 2 trailer.
Which reminds me...
Jerry from Modeltruckin, is retiring. Last orders are being taken upto end of July. Get them decals ordered mate, before you can't get them again!
27 May, 21:26
BozzerI just took a closer look at your pictures. I see those rails now. I'm guessing that they were a feature, to stop pallets from ramming up tight to the side, on the 1:1 version? The injection pin marks, I can Dremel away. You've actually got me thinking about digging out one of my reefers now, lol
27 May, 21:34
Martin OostromIn the real one, there will be a strip with slits to secure the cargo. But those are generally not that high and low. See picture.
28 May, 06:00
Bill NewcomerLate to the party. (I have been really busy with my wife's garden and my 1:1 car) Following. Making your box square and straight looks like quite the endeavor.
31 May, 04:12
Martin OostromDry fitting the door showed a small gap between them. I later added a strip of styrene to the back. Stiffening the doors by accident.
I removed the moulded rear lights, only realising too late that they're hollow. A thin sheet of styrene helped. I also glued a strip to the storage bins. Too much sanding otherwise. Now all trailer parts are ready for painting.
16 June, 18:25
Lode SchildermansDefinitely impressed, Martin. Smart building by improving stability in the beginning of the build. I particularly like the improvements with styrene
17 June, 06:17
BozzerI wonder if that PE is going to be the bars and locking system, for the back doors?
18 June, 02:24
Martin OostromPrimer's on! It took over 4 hours to paint the truck and trailer in my tiny booth.
18 July, 16:19
Lode SchildermansBut the result is a success. Looking forward to see your progress of this big one
19 July, 05:39
Martin OostromFirst colours are here. Tamiya bright red, Tamiya silver and not shown, Tamiya aluminium straight from the can on the reefer itself.
19 July, 13:50
Martin OostromFor the first time in forever I follow the colour callouts from the instructions, and now my choices are excellent. Makes me wonder…
Enjoy the colours while you can, this thing will be wrapped in decals when she's done.
20 July, 08:31
BozzerLol, maybe because it's more true to life?
Although I have to admit, I've crawled under a few trailers, and they were all the same, light rust/brown colour. Even on fleet management, the chassis and underneath, never get washed. I do a lot of work for a global logistics company and their trucks always look clean, but they're not. My brother works for a national retailer, driving big rigs. I asked him when he washes the underside of his trailer? His answer was priceless, but unfortunately, unprintable 😉
20 July, 13:50
Martin OostromI actually had red oxide primer in mind for the red parts, but didn't at the last moment!
I also never wash the underside of my car. And I've worked in port, so I can imagine some colourful language.
Done with airbrushing for now. Only some detail painting to do.
And after curing, it's decals time!
20 July, 14:11
BozzerMate, please do as Goldman suggested on your other thread, and take pictures of these?
It's definitely worth a try? I can't bear to hear the screams, if the decals spray doesn't work.
We need you to be successful on this, to raise the bar, and give the rest of us, something to reach for?
God speed, my friend, and good luck 👍
3 August, 21:11
Martin OostromIt seems to work on the first two pieces 🤞🏻
I'll let these cure for a while, to avoid moving them when doing the two large decals
4 August, 11:33
Spanjaardmission accomplished my friend, well done!!! now let's do (tomorrow?) the other side 🙂
4 August, 16:40
BozzerSorry for the FB link, but I think that looks awesome! And really, they made it look so easy?
4 August, 21:40
BozzerMartin, you pulled it out of the bag!
I was nervous for you, on those big decals, but mate, you made it look like a pro!
Kudos to you, and I hope you celebrate with a few cold beers!
4 August, 21:44
schecter87As I can see - you're using Micro Sol solution. Have you tried Tamiya Super Strong in a black bottle (It should be used carefully and needs a bit of experience to use, but it softens decal very fast)? When I first used Mark Fit Super Strong, it was like a revelation to me 🙂 But I never used Micro Sol, so I don't know of how it works.
5 August, 10:40
Martin OostromThat truck is awesome Bozzer! Really enjoyed that video.
Only the starboard large decal left 🤞🏻
And then hoping that the clear coat won't do anything funny. I got two spray cans of Mr Top Coat gloss. According to the internet, that should do fine 🤞🏻
Hi Scheckter, I use a combination of micro sol and heat. Apply some Sol, let it work a little, press with a soft brush or que tip. Repeat a hundred times or more to get everything where I want it.
I'm careful with these old decals and extra hot decal softener.
5 August, 15:00
Martin OostromClearcoat with Mr Topcoat acrylic gloss. straight from the rattle can, due to spray booth size limitations. Not so sure yet about the result.
12 August, 15:28
BozzerI'd let it dry fully, then reassess it. If you're still not happy, try another coat? I'm always nervous about rattle can gloss coats, ever since I had that crazing. I nearly always now, use Tamiya through the airbrush.
12 August, 18:50
Lode SchildermansMindblowing result so far. I'd like to see that beauty once with my own eyes, Martin
13 August, 09:41
Peter HardyHmmm. Martin's getting good at this model building thing. [Mental note to myself… Get better Peter! Faster!]
13 August, 11:27
Martin OostromSanded it smooth-ish and gave it a full wet coat. 🤞🏻
This trailer is too big for my paint booth Bozzer. To get a uniform look I also sprayed the truck from the can.
24 August, 09:21
Alexander Alexeev新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
13 21 July, 07:28
Dieter BihlmaierAlexander, I agree with the above comments...
only one thing detracts me: the wheels have to be outside of the landing gear struts;)
21 July, 12:46
Thomas Bischoffnice built - and for the undercarriage: the instructions are wrong and Dieter is right
21 July, 12:58
Trez MackenzieIt's not that the wheels are outside the strut - it's that they are simply back to front
24 August, 02:20
FeetWetこのアイテムが欲しい
Tornado IDS Italian version interior 3D decals (with 3D-printed resin parts) for Revell kit
Quinta Studio 1:48
QD+48262 2023 新金型 24 August, 09:20
TreehuggerQ: Is there any convenient way of scratchbuilding railings along the side of the ship, for 1:350 ships?
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
24 August, 09:09
Martin OostromWow. The vertical rods are about 3-5cm diameter in real life. That equates to 1-1,5mm in scale. The ropes are 1cm in real life? So you'd need 0.03 wire? The maths is from the top of my head, so I could be wrong of course.
I wish you the best of luck in pulling that off. And I call shotgun on the build!
24 August, 09:19
Roland Sachsenhofer新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
52 11 July 2021, 14:18
Eric LamareThe glider series, no engines again on this one I guess. I keep thinking on building mine with engines on. So it's nice to follow your great builds ?
11 July 2021, 15:17
Roland SachsenhoferThank you Mark!
The following pictures give a few impressions of the still very rudimentary G-242 fuselage. The granules in the "coal cellar" in the front of the nose should bring the necessary weight to avoid a "tailsitter". It consists of a kind of ground lead; I tried not to touch it when spooning it in and not to breathe! 🙂
The interior of the fuselage will be further detailed, the three windows in the bow will all be reworked with paint- I decided to build that well-known Go with "shark mouth".
17 July 2021, 17:09
Robert PodkońskiFantastic start, Roland. Installing the instrument panel on the front window frame must have been nerve shaking...
17 July 2021, 17:25
Roland SachsenhoferThank you Robert! I can report: it was not such a challenge with "Microscale Kristal Klear".
18 July 2021, 09:42
Roland SachsenhoferA few assembly steps further. Did I mention that the fit of the parts is quite good?
18 July 2021, 13:00
Robert PodkońskiThanks, Roland - I think for me it would be a challenge, I know Kristal Klear and it is setting slowly. BTW, have you ever tried any of these UV setting glues? They work really good, are transparent and are setting in few second under the UV LED light.
18 July 2021, 15:31
Roland SachsenhoferDusty, colourful, freshly filled and sanded: but the surfaces are now ready for a first round of RLM 65! The white tail band is already prepared - unfortunately hardly visible in the pictures - to be masked now.
28 July 2021, 17:15
OlivierOne of my favourite flying machines. Why the lead ? It is a tail sitter (or am I wrong ?)
28 July 2021, 21:33
Roland SachsenhoferOlivier, I've checked it now, you're absolutely right - and I've now made the thing a "bow-seater"! Well, I'd say that went unusually wrong 🙂) I don't know how yet, but a solution will be found.
I think I was wrongly influenced by the pictures of the wheeled B-version.
In any case, thanks for the clarification!
29 July 2021, 13:16
Roland SachsenhoferA few impressions of the more or less finished exterior. Now the question arises, how do I get a correct shark mouth? I think I know one possible answer....
2 August 2021, 15:31
Roland SachsenhoferThank you Cuajete and Daniel, motivating!
The clever plan for the "shark's teeth" part I and II: the taping was more fun than expected- and the preliminary resulting monster with the red smeared mouth looks somehow more scary than the final result, doesn't it? 🙂
3 August 2021, 07:22
Roland Sachsenhoferyes, and I smile back:
just removed the stencils- looking forward to showing you pictures of the outcome tomorrow!
3 August 2021, 19:27
Roland SachsenhoferAww!
The covers have come off - and the Go-242 shows the photographer its best smile, or let's say it tries to. Minor imperfections are repaired during the last step, the application of a black decal strip framing the dentures.
4 August 2021, 07:42
TorstenThe sharkmouth looks great, 😎 work 👍
Wondering how many kits you make in short time, awesome
4 August 2021, 08:15
Roland SachsenhoferThank you mates for all these encouragement! Tomorrow a black lip liner will be applied...
4 August 2021, 20:00
Roland SachsenhoferLast construction photos: the surfaces are basically finished, the first "false" pair of eyes, which can be seen in the original photos, was painted on with a dry brush - and now the application of the decals and the application of the large eyes on the rearmost, uppermost cockpit windows is still pending.
8 August 2021, 09:53
Roland SachsenhoferThe Gotha Go-242 has indeed been completed! The last steps of construction did not bring any major news, but also no more difficulties. I am happy that the project with the completely masked shark's mouth worked out as I had imagined. Actually even better! The four eyes were finally all painted with a dry brush.
The last photos of the assualt glider assembly are also a kind of conclusion to my personal "theme of the year" - at least in 1:72 scale! It is quite interesting to see such a size and shape comparison 🙂 By the way: all but one of the models were made by Italeri in the 60s and 70s, hats off to the Italians for this beautiful -past- model policy!
Thank you all for your interest, motivating remarks and...."Likes"!
9 August 2021, 06:17
Mark KAbsolutely delightful result! Thanks so much for sharing the build with us.
9 August 2021, 06:21
NeulingI agree with Mark. - Roland, I really enjoyed your theme of the year. I always had wanted to see these Italeri kits built by an expert.
9 August 2021, 07:09
bughunterThe undercarriage is really interesting with skids and wheels! Great project!
9 August 2021, 11:12
Roland SachsenhoferThank you very much for your encouraging and motivating feedback, friends, it means a lot to me! Olivier, I'm glad you like the DFS 230 and Go-242 duet!
9 August 2021, 18:09
OlivierAch Roland, I like all your gliders but the 'shark' going after the tiny DFS is just another level.
9 August 2021, 21:06
CuajeteFantastic result, Roland.
Very nice comparison with all planes.
Congrats!
10 August 2021, 18:31
Roland SachsenhoferAgain, thank you for your comments! I am very happy when the theme and the implementation are so well received.
10 August 2021, 18:42
Cristian Stieringeras always a great model from you Roland i read the report in the aircraft magazine today about the Go-242 you must also read. the report has captivated me from the beginning see you soon then
14 August 2021, 20:14
Roland SachsenhoferThank you for your words and for the hint; for sure I may say!
15 August 2021, 17:45
Marc VerlotHi Roland, starting the Italeri 1/72 242 A or B. Can I come to you for some advice and tips?
15 August, 14:46
Roland SachsenhoferThank you, I really appreciate your feedback! Marc, always happy to help with whatever I can: just get in touch!
15 August, 17:44
Roland SachsenhoferHello Marc, I have now checked: the RLM74 was made with Gunze H68, the RLM75 with H69. Gunze H417 was used for the underside of the original RLM76. The white stripe at the rear and the shark's mouth / various 'eyes' are masked and hand-painted, but the construction photos provide illlustration anyway.
I've been using Gunze acrylic paints for a long time and actually everywhere where it's possible.
24 August, 05:57
/ja/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
search-solr.php?lang=ja
35
35
/ja/search.php?q=*&page=newsfeed&fkSECTION[]=Newsfeed
35
todo