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Steven Van Dyck
I never paint the hull parts separately, because they need to get sanded along the seam to get a perfect fit. But it would ease the painting of course.

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Kesa Tiho
I would do the same thing but i wanted to be cautious and not have to worry about accidentally painting the other side and ruining it. Ill try your way when i buy and build my next model ship and see if its easier. Thanks

Steven Van Dyck
By the way, I also made a Theodore Roosevelt a long time ago.

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Guy Rump
Following! 👍

Steven Van Dyck
Kesa, if you used the masking tape, how come the black line got like that? I guess the paint crept under the tape, it should be pressed tight to the hull. Can that paint be removed? That is possible with X20a, but you need to repair the grey and red afterward.

Kesa Tiho
I painted the black line without the masking tape first and then painted it again, i would use X-20 but i dont have it, dont have the money for it and i dont know if it works with revell matt black (which i used)

CaptGPF
Rolling - wanna see how this turns out!

Kesa Tiho
Now time to go through the agony of using tamiyas X paints to paint the planes.

Lorraine Lin
Great progress！

Steven Van Dyck
Areas that have to receive a lot of decals should be coated gloss. Like that you can prevent silvering. The decals seem well applied though.

Kesa Tiho
I would apply gloss but sadly i dont have it, i always thought i had to apply decal softener instead. Or should i apply both? Im scared some kind of reaction will happen similar to the reaction with tamiya glue and tamiya paint and with this deck in specific i want it to be matte

Steven Van Dyck
To the contrary, the coat will protect your paint and would even be necessary in case you want to protect the decals with a second layer. Then you would be able to eventually weather the deck with washes, that would be dangerous at this moment because the decals attract fluids if they are not sealed with the coat. Decal softener is useful if the surface is rough or plied like you had on the island with the hull number. It makes the decal soft, but it might not help if you have very matt paint. The matt effect is caused by uneven particles that can harbour microscopic bubbles. The gloss cover will fill the voids and prevent the bubbles. I guess if you use Tamiya that would have its own transparent gloss and matt paint numbers.

CaptGPF
Steven is correct - gloss clear coating is important because it gives you a smoother surface for the decal to adhere to, but also important so you can easily slide the decal around when placing it without running the risk of tearing it.

A general rule of thumb is to run your fingers on the painted surface before you apply any gloss coat, if it is rough, lightly sand the area with a 3000 grit sanding paper to smooth it out. This is important because the gloss clear coat will not give you a smooth finish if applied to a rough surface.

When choosing a gloss clear coat, it is recommended to use a different type of medium vs the panel line washes you plan to use in the end . Example: if you plan to use oil or Tamiya panel line, use acrylic clear coat. If you plan to use water soluble coloring pencils, use a non-acrylic clear coat (like lacquer or enamel). This is so the thinner used to dilute or rub off the washes won't strip the protective clear coat.

When applying decals, some people apply solvaset on the area the decal is to be set, then you roll a cotton bud over it to squeeze out any solution under the decal, before applying microsol. Experiment with a smaller decal that is not so visible, as some decals like Arma and Eduardo's are very thin and can start melting immediately when applied on microset.

Solvaset or Tamiya's Mark fit strong is then applied on the decal to make it conform to the surface. Make sure the decal is placed where you want it before you do this, as it will melt the decal to the kit. Once that is done, apply another layer of gloss clear coat before weathering.

If you use Tamiya X-22, a 50-50 mixture of gloss to thinner may seem too thick, but trust me, it levels out very well.

I apologize for the overly long post, or covering some stuff you already know - just trying to be thorough for anyone new to the hobby.

gorby
Nice work Kesa. It's a lot better than the ships I built when I was your age.

Robert Podkoński
Wow! This is going to be a true masterpiece... Watching with pleasure and interest!

Ben M
🤯

CaptGPF
That PE work is insane! Gotta watch this!

Michael Kohl
Very interesting project

Pietro De Angelis
😲

gorby
Looks very interesting build.

Desert Marlin
Oh, very nice!

Hanno Kleinecke
Hell(cat) yeah ! 👍

Mr D
Wow 😲 brilliant 👌👌👍

John Thomas
Very nice work

Desert Marlin
Okay, that's getting crazy good!

Lorraine Lin
Thank you for the encouragement, will keep on working on this.

Lochsa River
very cool....

Pepe
😳😳😳😍

Neuling
Wow !

David Taylor
Wow.

CaptGPF
Looking more awesome each time I check in on it! Keep up the amazing work!

J35J
Impressive work! Watching with great intrest.

Matt Schloss
That is really cool!

Michael Kohl
Made me look immediately for Jasmodel kits.

Олег О
Это что-то необыкновенное! Потрясающе!

Robert Podkoński
Makes me wonder, what happens next... You've managed this skeleton kit absolutely perfectly. Chapeau bas!

Michael Kohl
How - if all all - did you prep the metal?

tyu
Nice, VERY nice! How did you attach the metal parts: glueing or soldering? Very clean build, impressive1

CaptGPF
Here's a dumb question - how do you keep the paint from chipping off of the PE? I tried spraying Mr Surfacer on it, prior to painting, but it still chips very easily.

Lorraine Lin
Thank you everyone!
@Michael Kohl, this kits are from Jasmine Model. The PEs are great, while the instructions a little bit difficult to understand.
@tyu, I used instant adhesive to glue them together. Some small parts, I used UV glue.
@CaptGPF, I used Mr. Color C series to paint it directly after assembly, keep the paint as thin as possible. But yes, it still chips easily, try not to touch it : )

ZHIDONG Li
大佬

bughunter
Great project!
As I build some Stripdown aircraft already I thought about this one too, but the kit is hard to get here and pricey so it was only an idea.

@CaptGPF You can apply Mr.MetalPrimer from Gunze first. It is a acrylic clear coat which hardens to a thin robust layer even if applied with a brush. I prefer the glass bottle over the rattle can.
SF-242 Mr. Metal Primer, Mr.COLOR , Lacquer, 40ml

Skyhiker
Lorraine what are you using for a skin on the fuselage?

Michael Kohl
I have used Mr Metal Primer for a while too with satisfying results. Paint adheres much better.

Michael Kohl
Copper foil plating and going for a french version. This is getting better every day. 🙂

bughunter
There is a newer version with an additional "-R" on the name, I don't know what was changed. I still use the original one.
Tamiya has also a product for this (have not tried it): 204 Metal Primer, Tamiya Gloss, Enamel, 40ml

Mr D
Now Lorraine....That is dedication to accuracy 😲.
This is why the Chinese were making Ming vases.. while the rest of the world made clay pots 🤣.
Very talented n clever 💯%

Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mates!

@skyhiker, It is 0.02mm cooper foil, and it needs to be annealed first (>650 degree C, a cigar lighter or gas cooker is good enough.)

@Micheal and bughunter, thank you for the suggestion, I just ordered Mr. Metal Primer-R.

Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mr D.

Lorraine Lin
@bughunter, I just received the new "-R" version. The new label says "improved transparency".

Skyhiker
The rivets on the copper look a bit strange because they are not in alignment with the plane's ribs. On a real aircraft wouldn't they be?

Lorraine Lin
@skyhiker, thank you for the comment. This is to verify my idea, I am making a new skin. And will try to make the rivets to align with the ribs. Thank you again.

bughunter
Thank you for the info!
I hope it still sticks to metal like the original.

Mr James
Outstanding work. This goes beyond modelling to precise engineering.

bughunter
Wnat to mention another usage:
The Mr.MetalPrimer can also be used, if the metal should not be painted. It protects the metal surface and prevents tarnishing and oxidation over time.

Alexander Grivonev
Additionally to the metal primer you can treat your PE parts with a fiberglass eraser pen beforehand. It cleans the metal from the oxide layers and roughens it up just a tiny amount to create perfect conditions for paint adhesion.

Dominik Weitzer
Wow. what a great work. excellent!

CaptGPF
Fantastic progress! It's a pity that the beautiful framing is covered up. Did you press the foil against the kit to get the detailing?

Kesa Tiho
Absolutely stunning, alas i cant help but feel suspicious

Alexander Grivonev
What makes you feel suspicious? @Kesa

Kesa Tiho
I cant put my finger on it but it seems too perfect. Too good to be true

Robert Podkoński
If you look closer, you will spot a few imperfections, Kesa (both on the side of the Jasmine model kit, and in the assembly). Notwithstanding, is a fantastic piece of workmanship.

Alexander Grivonev
I agree with Robert, everything looks authentic and not "doctored". I absolutely do not want to take away from Lorraine's craftsmanship, but there is nothing "too good to be true" about this. Great idea, very well executed, just fantastic craftsmanship. Every step is plausible and well documented and I don't even know how or why you would fake something like this 😄

Skyhiker
Well for 300 Euros per kit some people might have to fake it. That's a lot of money.

Alexander Grivonev
but faked HOW is what I wonder about. CGI? Yeah, it looks impressive, but it is still a kit. You cut the parts out, you assemble them and you paint the whole thing, no black magic to it really. It would be much more difficult to "fake" it imho

bughunter
@Skyhiker Do you mean 300€ for the whole project, with the Eduard kits and accesories?
The Jasmine Hellcat can be found from below 130€ from aliexpress (ok tax and co needs to be added) and around 150€ in ebay, but not 300! List price at Jasmin own shop is 169$

CaptGPF
@Kesa - if you think this is too perfect, wait till you see some of the other posters like Neuling, Mr James, Markus and Jörg (to name a few)- their stiff will also blow your mind!!!! However, Lorraine is definitely the God of PE!!!!!

Skyhiker
Bughunter I was looking at the price from Hobby Link Japan.

Kesa Tiho
I think i started a war

Kesa Tiho
@alexander grivionev i would say its just a pre built set but because of the WIP photos i cant :/

Kesa Tiho
I didnt mean my comment as an insult to her and her ability to build, paint etc builds. I just found her build oddly good

Mr D
Kesa, sometimes things can come across wrong way, so it's best to keep comment positive or just hold back... Everyone including yourself has nice experience here.
The site is a community forum and not competition ground.
There are people who are starting out ...brush painting over sticky fingerprint's.
Also there are amazingly talented artists like Lorraine here.
Everybody work n project is important to them, it's the enjoyment of the hobby above all, as you know for the nice work you have created yourself... Hopefully subject will move on now..🤣

Alexander Grivonev
What war mate, we are just having a chat 😄

Alexander Grivonev
Do they come pre built? I don't know..

Lorraine Lin
I believe that the friends in this community enjoy the process of building models, the satisfaction of removing the painting masks, and the interaction and sharing with mates here. Rather than showing off a pre-built model. I joined this community a little over a month ago, and I've seen many excellent works here, learned a lot of building techniques, and most importantly, had the opportunity to communicate with mates from all over the world. I feel connected with everyone, and I will continue to complete this project. Thank you for all your comments and support.

Kesa Tiho
I feel bad now

Lorraine Lin
@CaptGPF, yes, I press the copper foil against the kits to get the shape and details. I don't know "rubbing" is the right word the describe the process. And I plan to cover half of the fuselage. So it is called "cut away": )

Lorraine Lin
@Kesa, Don't be. Following your aircraft carrier project: )

Lorraine Lin
I applied Mr. Metal Primer-R as mates suggested here, it works well. The only thing is the surface is a little bit sticky even after 12 hrs. I guess this is how it prevents the painting from chipping.

Kesa Tiho
@lorraine i can see, i feel honoured to have one of my builds be followed by a skillful builder like you

CaptGPF
@Kesa - I don't think anyone took your post as inflammatory or starting a war - it's nice having conversations like this - and I think it's the best compliment once can receive when someone says "it looks too good". Be yourself!

Augie
Just awesome work.. a stunner!

Greg Baker
Now this is a project. Wow! Great work!

Guy Rump
Looking great, following. 👍

Mr D
Wander if the 🧸 bear gets sticky paws gluing all that PE together .... they make a talented team there pair..🤣
Coming on really well Lorraine.... interesting to see a different technique 🐻✌️

Desert Marlin
Excellent product.

Ben M
Very creative modeling. I enjoy seeing someone build something to this high of a standard as well as trying new things.

Lorraine Lin
Thank you Mates!
@Mr D, haha, actually she is a lovely fox, Lina Bell. My favorite friend in Disney Land 😄 I built a helicopter for her.
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Mr D
😁 your right a 🦊 fox got the pointy ears..fox's need to get about too 🤣
Really good...👍👍

Robert Podkoński
Looks awesome! Are you going to cover other fragments, Lorraine?

Juergen Klinglhuber
Looking forward to visit "Airpower24" tomorrow. This reminded me that I have taken some pictures the last weeks that did not yet find the way into the album. So here we go.

Juergen Klinglhuber
Little progress on this one.

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Stefan Fraundorfer
I'm in Jürgen and will follow with interest.

Ekki
And me!

Łukasz Gliński
Joining the party

Juergen Klinglhuber
Hello everyone - thanks for your intereest. I must admit that this is not a very exiting build, but thanks for yor interest - will to the painting this weekend and I just checked the decal sheet,....uuuii, there are plenty tiny stickers to be placed.

Juergen Klinglhuber
thx for your likes mates,..I can report a little progress

George Williams
Looking great so far.

George Williams
Looking great so far.

Bozo
Lovely vintage car. Good modeling and painting. So British

Erwin Leetink
Revell's 1:32 Arado sea plane. In the guise of one of the planes aboard the Tirpitz. The instructions call out for a (nice) decal that indicate the 100th launch, but since I found pictures that the plane had them on both sides, and only one is included, I left it off.
I added the national markings on the tail and replaced the lifting /handling cables for metal ones. Since I am not sure what color those cables where, but doubt they would be painted (the paint would flake off due to the flexing of the cables) I left them metal colored.
The dust somehow got embedded in the matt varnish, even though I painted the plane outside and let it dry there too!!!

Dave Flitton
I think you pretty much nailed the result. It looks very nice.

Erwin Leetink
Thank you Dave!

Steven Van Dyck
Well made, Erik. I don't understand why your project doesn't appear with mine in the list below this kit.

Guy Rump
Great result, congrats! 👍

Erwin Leetink
Thanks Steven and Guy. Much appreciated!
I don't see yours in the list of projects either, Steven!

Steven Van Dyck
It's the one with the metallic primer picture. I didn't name that album. Arado Ar 196 A-3 | Project by StevenVD (1:32)

Erwin Leetink
Oh yes, now I see it. I was searching for the wrong picture. I shouldn't try to do those things late in the evening...

Michael Kohl
Nice result. In case you bother: correct typo would be "Augen der Flotte". 🙂
That darn german genitiv...

Lex Jassies
When I look at your beautiful model, I remember that I also have this model somewhere waiting to be finished