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Nalanjidreamingこのアイテムを完成させました
RF-5A/RF-5E/F-5B/T-38 Pitot tube
W&D Studio 1:48
WD48009 24 August, 13:52
MMUKaanHello
I am new here. I have several models, all Tamiya (aircraft)
Should I buy all the paints listed in the paint list? There are quite a few paints. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I am new here. I have several models, all Tamiya (aircraft)
Should I buy all the paints listed in the paint list? There are quite a few paints. Any suggestions would be appreciated
23 August, 14:43
Spanjaardbasically, it is your choice (and your money) 🙂
I would say check what it is used and where. if you only need to use one color for a small detail, maybe you can make it mixing the ones you have. complete list is usually not needed since it may include different paint schemes, and if you use one, you do not use the colors of the others
23 August, 15:32
Greg BakerSeems like a double post... my comments from the previous one are:
First off, welcome to Scalemates! Second... you probably don't need every paint on the list. The first thing to keep in mind is that all the choices are up to you, so as long as you're happy with the result (or at least learn something), then it's a success. As for the paint list, it will include every single colour you need to build it OOB (out of the box) exactly as they tell you. However what you should do is go through the instructions carefully and figure out how many parts actually get painted with that colour - and if you'll be able to see them once the model is assembled. The small green dot on the control panel might not be worth buying a whole bottle of paint for... unless you plan to do a lot more control panels with green dots on them. I'd start with a few basic colours for the fuselage, and then maybe some greens or greys for the interior bits. See how that goes.
23 August, 16:42
Spanjaardof course, the ones you buy today, maybe useful in the future. anyway, it is your choice 🙂
23 August, 16:59
Greg BakerI suspect the question got posted twice. I copied and pasted my initial answer over to this thread... attaching my comments to your genius. 🙂
23 August, 18:12
MMUKaanThank you very much for the information. I plan to continue making plastic models as a hobby from now on. I even bought a lot of equipment. Your site is very useful and unique to me. I plan to buy sparmax arism viz and sparmax max 4 airbrush, do you recommend it? (second hand) Another alternative is sparmax tc 620x (this is also second hand) which one do you recommend?
24 August, 13:51
TreehuggerQ: Is there any convenient way of scratchbuilding railings along the side of the ship, for 1:350 ships?
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
I had this idea, but don't have the tools for it. Basically using metal rods, then clamping hard on 3-4 places to flatten spots on the rod, then drill holes in those flat spots, then pull a wire through the holes later. But chances are I think the whole rod will bend every which way when clamping hard on some spots to flatten the rod in places. I suppose working with styrene rods might be simpler, but then, when drilling holes in the flat parts, the styrene will likely snap or melt if ever coming in contact with liquid glue.
One other idea I had, was to maybe try scrape the photo etch railings, to try round the otherwise "square looking" horizontal parts, making them look thinner than the "rods" standing upright, making them look more like maybe some wire than welded metal pieces.
I have seen Tamiya having some aftermarket product for the rods, with metal wire, but only for the Japanese Yamato ship, which doesn't look like most other ships I would think.
24 August, 09:09
Martin OostromWow. The vertical rods are about 3-5cm diameter in real life. That equates to 1-1,5mm in scale. The ropes are 1cm in real life? So you'd need 0.03 wire? The maths is from the top of my head, so I could be wrong of course.
I wish you the best of luck in pulling that off. And I call shotgun on the build!
24 August, 09:19
TreehuggerI have some 0.1 mm metal wire. 🙂
Hmmm, maybe I could try combine that with some styrene rods, but square ones.
Hmm, 0,2 mm styrene rod might work.
24 August, 13:49
Andy Hawkins新しいフォトアルバムを追加しました。
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1:35
WARNING. Note it's easy to fit the axel stubs the wrong way round. At least it is for idiots like me..... Now to figure ...
3 20 August, 08:05
Dan Mこのアイテムを所有しています
Solar Auxilia
Shadowswords, Stormblades and Stormswords x2 Epic Scale Games Workshop 8mm
03-67 2024 新金型 24 August, 13:42
Dan Mこのアイテムを所有しています
Solar Auxilia
Leman Russ Executioner and Demolisher Squadron x8 Epic Scale Games Workshop 8mm
03-64 2024 新金型 24 August, 13:41
Clear Prop! 1:48
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