Saab 35 Draken MikroMir-kit
コメント
62 26 February, 21:28
RandoVery cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
27 February, 00:22
Patrick HagelsteinTrue! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
28 February, 00:28
S MWelcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
29 February, 06:24
Patrick HagelsteinŁukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
4 March, 14:38
S MHasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
4 March, 16:18
Patrick HagelsteinOK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
4 March, 21:00
S MWell my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
4 March, 21:19
S MI have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
7 April, 15:44
S MSlow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
5 June, 17:38
RandoMan. Struggling away with the clear parts on my RF-8 right now. Toughest part of modeling probably. Nice work on your canopy!
28 June, 03:30
S MThanks! @Rando I agree it is one of the most tough and riskiest parts. They took me 3 days because I wanted to make them pretty shiny with Humbrol Clear, but it takes lots of time to dry and it has become too thick. Next day when I check the clear parts they have some ugly residues and unevenness +hair. On the other part I just sanded and polished some minor points, but the other part I cleaned the varnish away with isopropanol and tried to dip it in varnish again. Next day still unevenness so I just sanded and polished them avay and dipped it in my more reliable floor polish that also dries faster.
28 June, 17:31
RandoYeah I've always had that with dipping parts in the floor polish, it doesn't dry evenly for me so I just polish with Tamiya and Novus compound. Good to get over the hump and onto painting and decals!
28 June, 23:59
S MBad luck with painting. I have to redo the top surface by removing most of the paint. It was a bad idea to preshade yellow with pink.
4 July, 23:05
ClementI've had better luck using tamiya XF-3 or any other flat yellow and following with a gloss varnish.
Gunze gloss yellow, orange, white etc are virtually useless to cover anything.
5 July, 06:32
S MYeah my choice of paints haven't been perfect, but I have settled for them and now the decals have been added. The big wisent needs some fixing.
12 July, 22:22
ClementLooking good! Given how short lived that scheme was, no preshading is probably the right call anyway 🙂
13 July, 10:47
S MI hope this gets finished in one day, because only landing gears are missing. I almost ruined this model with bad painting and bad choise of gloss varnish.
15 July, 21:39
S MThanks J35J, Clement, Podkon and Mimoid! The model is now ready, but I will take better photos tomorrow.
16 July, 20:43
CaptGPFInteresting techniques on building up the afterburner can. Outside of metallics, yellow is a hard color to paint IMHO, and you pulled it off perfectly I. This build! ❤️
27 July, 15:30
J35JGreat result with the build and yellow paintwork. Also very nice to see the comparision between the Hasegawa & Mikromir kit. 👍🏻
28 July, 09:44
