Panzer Kampfwagen IV Ausf.D

Eend
The roadwheels turned out pretty good, some just need a bit of clearing up.

Mike Kryza
Hi Eend - the kit is always good enough, but needs a lot of work. I'm interesting in the result. 😄

Roy McKenzie
Looking good. Look forward to more pictures 🙂

Eend
@Mike Kryza: With lot of work do you mean adding extra details?
@Roy McKenzie: I'll keep this album updated 🙂

Mike Kryza
Not very much - could be homemade - some weld seems, wire for the handles, some bolts and so on...😢 - But this is your own decision! - 👍

Eend
I see, well, some handlebars are pretty ugly and need some cleanup before they can even fit in their holes. So i'll make something for that. And how do you make weld seems?

Eend
After some googling, i found an article on weld seams: panzerworld.net/weldlines

Mike Kryza
Ok - that's the way...!

Eend
Thanks for the idea 🙂 i can't work on this (and other) projects for at least a few days. So i'm reading about weld lines and i'm researching what units used PzIV's in Holland in May 1940

Martin
4. Pz.Div. in maastricht had them: bild.bundesarchiv.de..&search[focus]=2

Eend
Thank you for the link, but it doesn't work on my tablet 🙁 i don't have a 'real' computer nearby, when i get near one, i'll check it out. anyway, I now know that 9 Pz.Div. (Wehrmacht) used them also, and they saw action in Holland, moving from some point in Germany to Breda and from there towards Rotterdam. If i remember correctly, there were units crossing through Maastricht, but were on their way to Belgium. Just like the Schlieffenplan from WW1. There was probably not a lot of fighting there, since the southern part of Limburg province was not defended.

Eend
The local hobby shop reopened after redecorating their store, and they now stock rolls of copper wire. It fits perfectly in the holes for the handlebars on the turret. (see the new pic in the album)

Roy McKenzie
Eend, it's looking good. On the handrail, I use a spacer to make sure all the rails are the same height. practice makes perfect 🙂 Look forward to your progress.

Eend
Yeah, i came up with the same idea when i finished the last handrail 🙂. But i checked it afterwards, and it came out ok.

Roy McKenzie
The rails look good.

Eend
Sorry for the lack of work done on this (and other) projects. I have some back problems, so i shouldn't sit too long and have to keep moving. I managed to get some small stuff done, like the handrails, and even these i did in three steps..

Eend
So, finally i could get some work done. As with the Puma i did most of the tools.

Eend
I tried to do some weld seams on the turret with milliput. I couldn't get it right, it kept breaking, and the seams that i managed to get on were too thick to be realistic.. More practice is needed 🙁 next up: decals, painting details like tools and the MG's.

Roy McKenzie
it looks good overall. I see what you mean about the decals. Did you try some setting solution to get them to conform to the surface?

james johnson
or cutting the decals and painting over them?

Albi Hitz
I agree with Roy. Setting solution should help you out (or a small cut with the scalpel but there will be only one chance 😉 )

Albi Hitz
... and you can use gloss clear or Future floorcleaning before you start with he decals to avoid the "silvering" under the decals.
And its a good "primer" when you use oils or washes ...
after all you can cover it with one layer gloss varnish to seal it and then the matt or a satin varnish ... voilà!!

Maarten Kruizenga
Also you could get yourself some "Mr. Mark Softer" but be careful, it is quite vicious.
Less so but very effective is the 'new' humbrol decalfix, you can litterally bath the decals in it.
But always as Albi says: gloss clear or Future first! Silvering will be a thing of the past.

Fabian D.
Glad not to be the only one with this kit on the bench. 😉
The decal seam to be far too thick and it's not the easiest place to put a decal on. So I decided to build the Poland campaign, with the far more interesting brown and grey cannot 😛

Eend
I used revell decal softener.. I thought about small cuts, but decided the risk was too high. So i applied decal softener and tried to get rid of the folds with a small brush. I wanted to do a Pz. IV from 9 Pz. Div. So thats why i tried to put the decals on the turret.. I wish i didn't. But with all the help here, i'm sure i'll do better next time 🙂

Fabian D.
just the best for our mates😉
BTW: thats the price of using the phone... My last sentence in the post bevore.... the version used in the Poland Campain... and: cammo not cannot... 🤔

Eend
Nearly done.. I painted a few details and i did the Tamiya Patience Test (i.e. Rubber tracks). I couldn't get the last track on, so i took off the drive wheel on the front and put it in the closed tracks and then put it in it's correct location. A fun fact is thatnthese tracks aren't straight, they weave a bit here and there.

james johnson
Whenever I deal with these tracks.........the very first thing I do after acquiring the kit is to hang the tracks with some sort of weight on them........pull them straight and work the "memory" out of them.....
Keep up the good work, Eend!

Eend
Oh i will. I wonder how Friul tracks will work out.. They seem easier to wirk with then most (if not all) plastic/rubber tracks. THey also cost as much as most of my kits though :/

Es-haq Khosravi
I've always loved this machine!

Es-haq Khosravi
Good job!

Eend
Thanks 🙂 I'm not really happy with this one though.